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#1 |
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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thinking about tackling this myself im alittle worried i will break a bolt though any tips for taking them off. am i most likely going to break one no matter how i do it?
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99tj 4.0, 3.5inlift, transfercase drop, 35/12.50/15 mud rovers on AR Sliders, ebay headers, touchscreen headunit, 3.73's, step bars, lights front and rear src front bumper with homemade highlift mount for front bumper |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: TX
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PB Blaster is your friend. make sure you lots of extensions, wobbles and universals. a racheting wrench can also be of use
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#3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Raleigh, NC
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x2 on the PB or other penetrating oil.
Make sure you have an assortment of ratchet extensions and swivels to reach the hard to access bolts. Just go slow and label your hoses and lines. The electrical connections are pretty easy to figure out since the connections only go into their specific home. When tightening the intake/exhaust bolts, be sure to use the correct sequence and be sure that the intake is aligned and flush to avoid air leaks. Use antiseize on your bolts.
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98TJ 93YJ on Tons (build in progress) |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: WWA
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Griz hit all my points. I just did mine about 3 weeks ago. Took my time as I was on vacation incase I ran into some trouble or broke a bolt. All done and told it took about 4-5 hours and that was split into two days. I was in no rush and it was pretty simple.
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#5 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: SE Michigan
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I installed a Banks header on my 98 TJ a while back. Here are some observations from my install that may help when you get to that part. Many ways to do it but this worked for me.
-ratcheting end wrenches will make it easier. Almost a must have. -good supply of sockets, extensions with a universal. -bolts/nuts were not really that tight. -power steering pump needs to come off the manifold but does not need to be disconnected. -holes are in the power steering pump pulley to access pump bolts. -lower manifold bolts best accessed from under the jeep. -need torch or cut off tool to get bolts off of headpipe. -save the bolts on both ends of the header until the end. That way you can take the intake manifold off by itself. Remove the end bolts to then take off the old header. -best tip in the instructions, upon reassembly start the 4 bottom intake manifolds bolts 1-2 turns than set the manifold on the engine. -instructions are actually useful. Take time to read them. -all of the wire harness connectors are unique, hard to mix them up. -exception to above; injector connectors are the same but again, hard to mix up. -need the fuel line coupling disconnect tool to get the fuel line apart on the manifold. -throttle body does not have to come off, just all the cables and wires. Good product, good instructions. My header and cat back took me about 6 hours with several interruptions. Knowing what I know now I could do it half that time. Allow yourself plenty of time, be patient and everything should go well. Good Luck.
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98 TJ, 4.0, Auto, 4" Full Traction, 33x12.50 BFGs, 8.8, 4.10s, Locked at both ends, 15x8 AR 23s, AA SYE, Woody, MSD, Banks, OR-Fab, Warn, AGR, Random, True Flow, OME, Currectlync and Power Windows |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Raleigh, NC
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If you are careful, not only do yo not need to remove the throttle body, but you shouldn't even need to disconnect the injectors or remove the fuel rail. I have gone through this a couple times. the first time I did disconnect everything. The second time, I wised up and just folded the intake over the valve cover.
Another hint - Find a fuel line disconnect tool. I bought mine at autozone for a couple bucks. Also, don't foget to release the pressure from the fuel rail before disconnecting the fuel line. There is a small black cap covering a schraeder valve on the rail. Remove the cap and just press in the valve to releave the pressure.
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98TJ 93YJ on Tons (build in progress) |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Home of the brother of the Superbowl MVP
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Lefty-Lucy, Righty-Tighty.
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![]() 2004 Jeep Wrangler "U" Package Dad Rated™ 2.5" OME / 1.25" BL / 1" MML 33x1250x15 BFG MT 2007 Doidge Grand Caravan SXT Special Edition Mommy-mobile™ Future mods: 6" Skyjacker lift, 35x16 BFG Krawlers, divorce lawyer Did you know that Eli Manning has a brother that plays football, too? No, really, he's pretty good. He's that guy who does the commercials. |
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#8 |
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Boise, Id
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I remember reading that it helps to remove the driver side wheel to access some of the bolts from underneath. I don't remember if I did that or not, but it's not a bad job.
Good luck! |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Nov 2005
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:fatkid: this was something i wanted to do. Just like my 4.6 stang a PITA.
Why cant they be like the old 5.0 mustangs banging ur knucles but you dont have to take apart the whole motor ........... |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
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Its not too bad of a job.. I didn't both disconnecting my fuel rail just when I got the intake manifold off I found there was enough slack that I was able to just move it on top of the engine out of the way.
The bolts are all accessible but takes take some work getting to them sometimes. Make sure you don't over torque the bolts when putting them back on.. I did this and had to retap a few holes. I'm installing a set this weekend in my ford f-150 hopefully its as easy...
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Colin Jennings 98 Tj - locked dented and abused More info see: Details of my jeep http://www.jeeping.net |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Canada, Ontario
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ive done mine twice and had no issues at all other then some banged knuckles and alot of swear words.
P.S. When you think the jeep has cooled off enough to start taking off the bolts, let is sit for another 20 mins :P |
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#12 |
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Location: St. Johns, FL
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Check the new manifold to make sure the flange is flush. My ebay one was not and leaked. I had to do the job twice a few months ago. I used a dealer gasked the 2nd time.
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------ 97 Sahara - auto |
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