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#1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
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New member here but I've been using the site for great info for some time.
I have a 1993 GC 5.2 that has had poor starting and idle lately. I have done 2fuel pumps in the past and did replace it last week under warranty to rule that out. Also did the fuel pump relay and fuel filter. When I turn the key to "on" I dont always hear the pump priming up right away. I turn it off and on a few times until I hear it and it pops right off. If I just go in and start cranking it before I hear the pump it will take a long time to start up. What have I missed? Pump is new. Relay is new. Filter is new. Any other ideas? I guess the pump could be bad out of the box..? Not sure what else to look at. Thanks, Eric |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Yardley, PA
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Always can suspect a dirty throttle body and a bad idle air control. Throttle position sensor is another, along with crankshaft and camshaft position sensors.
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#3 |
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Rhode Island
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my 94 5.2 was starting after a couple long cranks also with a rough idle. ended up being a bad coil
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#4 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Paducah, KY
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Something else to think about is where do you get your parts? Autozone or other cheap parts stores parts can sometimes make a vehicle run worse on new parts than it did on the old ones.
Good Luck With Your Project. |
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#5 |
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Thanks for the feedback.
I did already put in a new IAC and cleaned the throttle body well. It starts and runs great when I hear the pump priming before I start it. I am pretty focussed on fuel supply from the pump. Anything else that can keep that pump from priming when key is on? Thanks for any help, Eric |
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#6 |
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Rust Builds Character
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Red Wing, MN
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im still having the exact same problem, i however have only changed the filter and done some simple tests, but cant figure anything out. the only way i get mine to start easy is to turn the key forward, and let it sit until i hear the pump kick in and see the check engine light come on after about 15 seconds
any help on the subject would be appreciated. |
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#7 | |
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Quote:
I am thinking it is the PCM (computer) based on some other posts I've read. |
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#8 |
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Rust Builds Character
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Red Wing, MN
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shouldnt the fuel pump be priming itself immediately when the key is turned forward?
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#9 | |
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Quote:
If I put the key into the on position, AND the check engine light goes on, I will hear a relay clicking rapidly from the engine compartment and then shortly after, I'll hear the fuel pump run for about 2 seconds. If I then crank, it starts right up and runs great. Lately that only happens about 1 time in 12. Tonight, I tried something different. I turned the key to on the first time and just left it there (I usually give up if I don't see 'check engine' and turn back to off and try again). An interesting thing happened after about 30 seconds. The 'security' light lit up. The vehicle is new to me, and I didn't even know it had an alarm system. Anyway, soon after the security light came on, I got the relay/pump operation and was able to start. I don't usually see the security light in any other circumstance. I found this related thread which goes on for a bit, but FWIW a couple of people solved similar problems with a new PCM (computer). |
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#10 |
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Rust Builds Character
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Red Wing, MN
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i'd rather put up with this problem then spend several hundred on a new computer
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#11 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: North Shore, MN
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Quote:
done a tune up on it lately?
__________________
the new slate 5.9 Limited, NP242, old school Kevin's 2" BB, 245/75/16 MT's, Optima Red Top, ZG export amber front markers, front park light mod, quad tails, Magnaflow cat/glasspack, Boston Acoustic's, JKS BPE's, ZJ U jointed front axle shafts, DLS custom front U jointed drive shaft, Mopar ZJ gen 1 non-hidden hitch, ZJ Up Country tank skid, & black windows |
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#12 |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
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Well this really doesn't present itself as "tune up" issue or even ignition related at all for that matter. It runs great otherwise.
The real question is whether or not something else is involved in sending power to the fuel pump. Does the pump get powered directly via the relay? Probably so. So what's telling the relay to energize? Just the key? Or is it computer controlled even after the key is turned on? ???Eric |
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#13 | |
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The bad thing is that his solution involved 2 fixes, so it's hard to say what actually fixed the problem! I have tried wiggling the wires going from the door into the door jam while turning the key with no difference, but I need to read my manual and see how the alarm system is supposed to be working. I did notice that there are 2 sensors that monitor if the door is closed, so one of them must be for the alarm and the other for the dome light? |
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#14 |
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Senior *********
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: North Shore, MN
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bad fuel press regulator?
__________________
the new slate 5.9 Limited, NP242, old school Kevin's 2" BB, 245/75/16 MT's, Optima Red Top, ZG export amber front markers, front park light mod, quad tails, Magnaflow cat/glasspack, Boston Acoustic's, JKS BPE's, ZJ U jointed front axle shafts, DLS custom front U jointed drive shaft, Mopar ZJ gen 1 non-hidden hitch, ZJ Up Country tank skid, & black windows |
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#15 |
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All,
In the hope that this thread may help others in the future, I wanted to post what worked for my 93 GC Laredo. After checking all relays and fuel pump, I came to the conclusion that the issue was the PCM. To recap, if I turned the key to 'ON', I would not always get the 'check engine' light to come on (maybe 1 out of 10 times). Once the light did come on, I could hear the relay chattering rapidly for about 6 secs. then the fuel pump would kick on for about 3 secs. Then turn the key and it would fire right up and run great until I turned it off. So, I decided to buy a Cardone reman. PCM. I have not changed anything else. It now starts up every time on the first try. Now I have to fix the *$%** vacuum line I snapped while shoehorning the old PCM out! Only affects the cruise control, though. John |
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#16 |
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Rust Builds Character
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Red Wing, MN
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Wow, just as i was going to search for the thread to kick it back to life, someone already did
![]() With my zj, i would turn the key forward for about 15 seconds, and every time after that 15 seconds the relay would kick on and the check engine light would come on shortly after. over this last weekend, it took a turn for the worse, and i have to literally wait 5 minutes before that damn relay starts clicking. the relay also now clicks for about 30 seconds before i start to hear the fuel pump start to click, and then after about another 15 seconds the fuel pump finally kicks in and allows me to start. i'm confident that mine is also the pcm causing problems, so i'm willing to purchase one to get the POS running properly again. where, and how much for either a brand new or refurb? i've also found someone who has a 93 that they're parting, and he is willing to sell his to me, but neither of us know what a used one is worth, any suggestions as to what price should be for a used one? |
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#17 | |
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As far as the used one goes, it's obviously up to you. I decided that since I'd be using my Jeep for its intended purpose (to travel to remote areas), it was worth it to just get the reman. If I was short on funds and had to get the used PCM, I would try not to pay more than 33% of what the remans cost. That all said, it sure feels nice having it start right up every time! It sure sounds like you have the same symptoms as I had. Let us know how it turns out. John |
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#18 |
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Senior *********
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: North Shore, MN
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i've heard and seen more bad PCM's on 4.0's than 5.2's...
__________________
the new slate 5.9 Limited, NP242, old school Kevin's 2" BB, 245/75/16 MT's, Optima Red Top, ZG export amber front markers, front park light mod, quad tails, Magnaflow cat/glasspack, Boston Acoustic's, JKS BPE's, ZJ U jointed front axle shafts, DLS custom front U jointed drive shaft, Mopar ZJ gen 1 non-hidden hitch, ZJ Up Country tank skid, & black windows |
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#19 |
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Rust Builds Character
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Red Wing, MN
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im looking up used ECU's from a parts website, for the 5.2, its asking me to choose between two identification codes.
ident #56028011 ident #56028012 and each have an option of w/ or w/out security. my zj has the alarm, and has the keyless entry/remote locking. so i'm assuming i'd want the security option. where do i find the identification number on my zj? |
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#20 |
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On mine, there was a white sticker right on the PCM with the number printed out on it. The PCM is located on the firewall behind the coolant reservoir. I think I was able to read the number without removing the reservoir.
John |
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