Door/Dome light bypass switch write-up

[tarditi]

I got tired of removing my fuse and digging it out every time I took off my doors - I came up with a simple bypass switch to perform the same function as removing/reinstalling the fuse - just a switch with an inline fuse.

I had this set up in my 1997 TJ Sport for 3 years with pretty heavy off-roading and no probs. I recently installed a similar configuration in my 2004 Rubi.

OK - this is my own design - I do not imply that doing so is condoned by D/C!

Parts list:

1) Inline fuse (12v) - 10 amp
2) 2 blade toggle switch (12v)
3) Crimp female connectors (2)
4) 2 lengths of wire - approx 18" each (small gauge) - length depends on mounting distance from fusebox
5) Butt connectors (appropriate for gauge of wire)

Equipment list
1) Crimpers
2) Wire strippers/cutters
3) Small flat head screwdriver
4) Electrical tape
5) zip ties

This is a tremendously simple operation - I made the instructions very detailed for my non-handy jeep friends. :-)

1) strip and connect 1 end of each wire with a fenale connector - these will attach to blade ends of toggle switch.
2) Take 1 wire and cut it in the middle - this is where the inline fuse goes.
3) Strip ends of newly cut wire and attach inline fuse where the cut was made - this replaces the function of the fuse in the fusebox.
4) Seal/wrap all connectors with electrical tape.
5) The very ends of the 2 wires need to be stripped about 1/4"
6) Remove the glovebox and the #4 fuse, as instructed in the owner's manual for "operation with doors removed."
7) Mount switch in a convenient location (I selected blank next to factory switches in center console)
8) With small flat head screwdriver, jam 1 wire in each outlet for the #4 fuse (doesn't matter which wire goes in which hole) - ensure they are secure... you may use a blown-out fuse to hold them in the socket.
9) Route your wire to the switch and secure it periodically with zip ties (prevent rattles)!
10) Hook up to switch

[njbeachrat]

hey,

Is there anyway of connecting a fuse to the end of the wires? what i mean is instead of just jamming the two wires into the #4 slot. Isnt that sort of dangerous? i am not very eletrically inclined....so i dunno if someone might be able to help out...

i found this on ebay too, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT
In the pictures you can see he was able to attach the fuse to the end again....

Thanks Mike

[james13242]

-=- originally posted by njbeachrat -=-
hey,

Is there anyway of connecting a fuse to the end of the wires? what i mean is instead of just jamming the two wires into the #4 slot. Isnt that sort of dangerous? i am not very eletrically inclined....so i dunno if someone might be able to help out...

i found this on ebay too, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT
In the pictures you can see he was able to attach the fuse to the end again....

Thanks Mike

Dude- That is the same thing that tarditi just described. There is a fuse used.

[tarditi]

That's about what it'll look like when you're done.
I mention that you can use a blown fuse to hold the wires in place - it appears to be what this seller did (probably soldered them to the prongs).
I was a little cautious when I made the first one, but the wires stay in there just fine and it didn't damage the fuse holder - your results depend on how you install it, of course.

It is easy to take this design and run with it. I stated that I used a similar design for my rubi - I actually caniballized a piggyback fuse (pep boys) for use in my new one.

I could make them and sell them on Ebay or something, but it's the sort of product that can easily be handmade for a reasonable amount of money (I probably spent $10 on my piggyback fuse) and the margins wouldn't be worth the hassle.

I'm surprised some electrical accessory company or something hasn't mass-produced them, though.

[njbeachrat]

-=- originally posted by james13242 -=-
Dude- That is the same thing that tarditi just described. There is a fuse used.

Yes i know there is a fuse used and yes i know it is the same thing...i want to know how to connect the wires to the fuse without melting the fuse...if it is possible

Yea tarditj, it would make sense for a company to jump on this wouldnt it?? thanks for the help

~mike

[james13242]

Quadratec has them,
http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sgi...M=00&x=59&y=62

I used terminal lug connectors to attach to the fuse block.

[tarditi]

I see a couple of options here...

Whenever I use the term "blown" fuse, I mean a fuse that has a separated link between the two tips.

It's hard to tell from the pics, but it look slike the Ebay design uses option #2.

1) Use light gauge wire and wrap it under each tip of the prongs on a blown fuse (length-wise) - then insert the assembly carefully (a test of dexterity with a mini-ATO fuse!

2) Take a mini ATO fuse and cut the link between the prongs... solder the wire ends to the top ends of the fuse (may need to shave off some of the plastic fuse "head" to expose enough metal to attach to - may help to leave some of the plastic head intact to have something you can easily insert into the fuse socket.

3) Use fuse piggybacks (cheap ones are just brass extensions to attach a spade connector) I didn't use this option since is was hard to keep the 2 brass ends from drifting and possibly touching - you need a blown fuse for this method to work anyway.

I mean really, how much would anyone pay for a product that does this? The ebay auction is at $15 last I checked...
I was able to make my first one with stuff I had laying around the garage...

Cheers!

[james13242]

-=- originally posted by tarditi -=-
I mean really, how much would anyone pay for a product that does this? The ebay auction is at $15 last I checked...
I was able to make my first one with stuff I had laying around the garage...

Well quadratec thinks some where around $25

[tarditi]

I was writing my reply and looking at some other stuff when you posted the quadratec link. I didn't see it until after I clicked "submit"

Apparently there is a demand for it!

[91RS383]

I confess: The E-bay auction is mine.

I cut the end off of a 2A mini-fuse soldered the wires onto the prongs then used shrink wrap to seal it back up. Your original 10A fuse in your panel plugs directly into the harness. Then the harness plugs into the fuse panel. As you can see in the pictures it uses an existing screw as the mounting point. The design is the same as the schematic above but prettied up. I'm very proud of the results. It looks like a mass produced part.

This is my first auction for the harness. It looks like it's going to sell. What can I say? I've seen folks selling $5 worth of home made quick disconnect hardware for $20.

If you are not electrically inclined and would like me to make you one PM me. I think $15 is a fair price after all I do need to fabricate the bracket and do all the soldering and beautification.

[MountainGoat]

Wow what a waste of time did you know if you just unplug the wires from the door pins that the light will still function. When you turn the jeep off the light will come on for 10 secounds and you can still turn it off and on at the columb. This is the way they were designed to be used. The switch would be a total pain in the ass. I have never hooked the pins back up again after un-doing them.

[nyxis]

-=- originally posted by MountainGoat -=-
Wow what a waste of time did you know if you just unplug the wires from the door pins that the light will still function. When you turn the jeep off the light will come on for 10 secounds and you can still turn it off and on at the columb. This is the way they were designed to be used. The switch would be a total pain in the ass. I have never hooked the pins back up again after un-doing them.

that only works on 2001+ but yes i agree its a waste to do on anything but 97-00 ..

i pulled my fuse and havent gotten back the delay is nice...

[Jeepguydallas]

-=- originally posted by MountainGoat -=-
Wow what a waste of time did you know if you just unplug the wires from the door pins that the light will still function. When you turn the jeep off the light will come on for 10 secounds and you can still turn it off and on at the columb. This is the way they were designed to be used. The switch would be a total pain in the ass. I have never hooked the pins back up again after un-doing them.

Ummm, why didn't you just pull the fuse and leave it out like the rest of us?? Same result with no loose wires...

[nyxis]

maybe i should have read all of mountains post.. but i only got like half a sentence in then replied.. yah just pull the fuse why on earth would you want to pull the door pins?

[MountainGoat]

Door pins were easier and you only pull them till they click then they will not operate. pull on the wire on the back side firmly and you will see what I mean. Desingned to do that. Again why rig a switch or pull a fuse. I guess if you did not know it would seam normal to pull the fuse though.

[nyxis]

the pins are designed to pull out for servicing/replacing.. the fuse is meant to be pulled off for when the doors are off.. read the manual if you question that..

[MountainGoat]

-=- originally posted by nyxis -=-
the pins are designed to pull out for servicing/replacing.. the fuse is meant to be pulled off for when the doors are off.. read the manual if you question that..

The pins are desingned to click into doors off position if firmly pulled on from the back. Try yours if you question that !!

[TJChad]

Possibly people say pull the fuse because that's what the owners manual says to do? Nowhere does it say that it's designed to just have the wire pulled back a little at the door pin. This leads me to believe that IT WAS DESIGNED TO BE DISABLED BY PULLING THE FUSE. Too many clueless people out there aren't going to understand what you mean by "until it clicks." Sad but true...

BTW- don't mean anything against you, just that there are plenty of people who will try what you said and then bitch and say you had bogus info. I've seen too many people who'd rather blame their source instead of their own ineptitude.

[JWebber]

-=- originally posted by MountainGoat -=-
Wow what a waste of time did you know if you just unplug the wires from the door pins that the light will still function. When you turn the jeep off the light will come on for 10 secounds and you can still turn it off and on at the columb. This is the way they were designed to be used. The switch would be a total pain in the ass. I have never hooked the pins back up again after un-doing them.

He is his own!!!!:naw:

[DawgJeep]

-=- originally posted by MountainGoat -=-
Wow what a waste of time did you know if you just unplug the wires from the door pins that the light will still function. When you turn the jeep off the light will come on for 10 secounds and you can still turn it off and on at the columb. This is the way they were designed to be used. The switch would be a total pain in the ass. I have never hooked the pins back up again after un-doing them.

I'll jump on this one for the switched fuse side. I put the switch on a few months ago and it is a great convenience. I don't run my doors off all that often so that really isn't the reason I put the switch on to begin with. There are a lot of times when I am camping/tailgating when I have the radio on and like to leave the doors open. And if I'm working inside the Jeep, more often than not I have the radio on with the door open. It is nice to just hit the switch.

The switch took all of about 30 minutes and it was not difficult at all. Someone was simply sharing their knowledge on the subject and it's not necessary to add your two cents every chance you get.