Learning to stick weld is hard!

[ShayZJ]

I just started trying to learn by myself for the last couple of weeks and just now am I able to run a bead. The first for me so I am happy. Experimented a little and the best for me seems to be 7018 rod at a 100 amp setting on my old Lincoln 225 AC welder. Tell me what you think of these beads for a true beginner.



Any beginner tips would be very helpful.

Flame away please.

Shay

[Samueul]

I am fairly new to welding myself, and also have the Lincoln AC225. The two beads in the middle look pretty good to me.......

[DM]

If you are using 1/8 rods, I would run at 140 amps with the 7018. Good start so far

[zachvNJ]

The best thing to do is try welding two pieces together instead of just laying down flat beads. One thing I have learned is to not be afraid of putting down some heat and filler material.
There is a great BBS here that can help alot.

[burntkat]

-=- originally posted by zachvNJ -=-
The best thing to do is try welding two pieces together instead of just laying down flat beads. One thing I have learned is to not be afraid of putting down some heat and filler material.
There is a great BBS here that can help alot.

EXACTLY.

Just be aware not to put too much heat into a part <don't weld more than an inch at a time, and skip around>. I warped my first set of sliders 1" over 6', by doing entire joints at a time.

Get a autodarkening helmet at Harbor freight, for $70. Makes an enormous amout of difference.

I got that, and practiced a bit, and within a month's time, I have learned how to weld anything from 1/4" plate, to 1/16" tube, withthe AC225.

[jeepnmatt]

pick up a small box of 1/8" 6013 and practice with it. i think it is the easiest to start learning with.

matt

[Dan90YJ]

-=- originally posted by burntkat -=-
EXACTLY.

Just be aware not to put too much heat into a part <don't weld more than an inch at a time, and skip around>. I warped my first set of sliders 1" over 6', by doing entire joints at a time.

Get a autodarkening helmet at Harbor freight, for $70. Makes an enormous amout of difference.

I got that, and practiced a bit, and within a month's time, I have learned how to weld anything from 1/4" plate, to 1/16" tube, withthe AC225.

Wow that is some not so great advice.

You can def weld more than an inch at a time, yes you should be carefull of over heating but soooo much goes into that you shouldnt stop every inch.


DO NOT BUY A CHEAP AUTO DARKENING HELMET!!!!!!!!! get a good one. Everytime you spark with a cheap helmet and it doesnt darken on time you ar ruining your eyes. Do you like your eyes? get a Good auto or be a man and learn to weld w/o one.


They dont look to bad, i would up the amps some. Working with some 6013 isnt a bad idea either.

Just keep practicing. work on your speed control and stabilty, it will come.

How are you holding the rod, try holding it at an angle to your work.

[gldean]

Ditto on the good helmet. I would also make sure it has an adjustment from like 9-13.

Different arcs produce varing degrees of brightness.

If you do go with an inexpensive model . . . make sure you aren't staring directly at the electrodes contact point when the arc starts. Just in case the delay becomes a bit more delay than you should have.

Beads look pretty good so far . . . .looks a bit on the lumpy side. Try a little more heat and maybe just a little bit faster stoke. Cut the weld apart and see how well your penetration is before you lock a precedence in mind as to what you believe looks solid.
Later,
Gary

[burntkat]

-=- originally posted by Dan90YJ -=-
DO NOT BUY A CHEAP AUTO DARKENING HELMET!!!!!!!!! get a good one. Everytime you spark with a cheap helmet and it doesnt darken on time you ar ruining your eyes. Do you like your eyes? get a Good auto or be a man and learn to weld w/o one.

Wow, THAT is some not so great advice.

Have you actually used the helmet I refer to? No? Maybe you should try it out then.

My helmet works just fine. It never flashes clear while welding. Quite the contrary, it will flare dark while I'm not welding, if I look at a bright bulb. Which is exactly what it is supposed to do. My helmet darkens in something like 1/100,000 of a second. It also has adjustable tint darkness, covering at least 9-13 <the sticker has fallen off since it's been in the weather>

WTF is this "be a man and learn to weld without one" crap? Talk about idiocy! The helmet is there for more than just protecting your eyes-- it is to protect your face and neck from radiation burns as well. Perhaps you should take remedial welding safety instruction?

Yes, an experienced welder can weld longer than an inch at a time without warping a part. Is this poster an experienced welder? Probably not, since he's asking basic questions. Thus, my statement stands.

[oltmann]

Well, I'm looking at a Harbor Freight auto-darkening helmet right now. It's on sale for 70 down from 120. It darkens in 1/25000 of a second. Does this sound like a good helmet? If not, what would you recommend for a auto-darkening helmet?

Link:
Harbor Freight helmet

[ShayZJ]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I am just starting out so everyone's input is appreciated. Those beads were my very first with a stick welder so I hope to get ALOT better. I have joined some pieces of metal that hold pretty good but those welds do not even resemble a bead of any sort.

I went to harbor freight and bought the $99 auto helmet while it was on sale for $79. Not a bad helmet at all. I would recommend it. My friend has the $179 Hobart auto helmet and it is only a little nicer IMO.

Shay

[Dan90YJ]

-=- originally posted by burntkat -=-
Wow, THAT is some not so great advice.

Have you actually used the helmet I refer to? No? Maybe you should try it out then.

My helmet works just fine. It never flashes clear while welding. Quite the contrary, it will flare dark while I'm not welding, if I look at a bright bulb. Which is exactly what it is supposed to do. My helmet darkens in something like 1/100,000 of a second. It also has adjustable tint darkness, covering at least 9-13 <the sticker has fallen off since it's been in the weather>

WTF is this "be a man and learn to weld without one" crap? Talk about idiocy! The helmet is there for more than just protecting your eyes-- it is to protect your face and neck from radiation burns as well. Perhaps you should take remedial welding safety instruction?

Yes, an experienced welder can weld longer than an inch at a time without warping a part. Is this poster an experienced welder? Probably not, since he's asking basic questions. Thus, my statement stands.

No thanks Ill keep my helmets, my eyes are worth more than $70. I have both types of helmets and unless i am doing tricky stuff i use the reg mask.

I didnt mean to weld w/o a mask, i meant w/o an auto darkener. If you can weld w/o one you will be a much better welder.

[burntkat]

I agree about that statement, but your original statement seemed to advise not using a mask at all. A BAD move, and something the newbies to welding didn't need to be advised to do. Not everyone realizes there are X Rays and the like, coming off an arc. Didn't want to make the oncologists richer still, by way of bad advice.

I agree about the steady-state masks- but it's sure to do one's welds WORLDS of good if they can see where they are starting before they strike an arc, when they're still learning.

- and the HF mask is perfectly acceptable for production work. More money, does not always equal more quality. Ever hear of overseas production?

[Mudflap69]

I would suggest using the 6013 rod also. I'm not familar with the Lincoln 225 AC welder, but I'm assuming that its strickly an AC polarity machine. That would explain all the splatter around your weld. 7018 in my experience runs better with DC straight polarity and will give you a much cleaner weld. With all the splattering around the weld chances are there is some porosity in your weld but I can't say that for sure. Myself I run 7018 1/8 rod at approx 125 amps give or take again on a AC/DC machine.
On the upside of things for you first crack I think you did pretty damn good . Beads are nice and straight, doesn't appear to be any under cut on the sides. maybe alittle high in the middle but not too bad.
Things I would suggest
1. definitely go with 6013
2. listen closely to the sound of the welding rod burning. When you get a nice weld you are proud of remember that sound.
3. watch the puddle not the end of the rod. just because you put the rod there doesn't mean you will get good fusion of your material.
Sorry for the long winded comments but keep practicing it will get easier

[kwrangln]

A couple people so far have said to jump into the 6013 rods, but I'll disagree. When teaching someone to weld I'll always start em out with a drag rod (like the 7018 your using). Let them learn how to see the puddle, weld in a strait line, work on proper lead and work angles and getting consistant beads without throwing manupulation into the equation. Once they have nice strait and even beads then I'll give em some 60 series rods that need manipulation. It usually throws em almost back to square one, but since they already know how to hold a consistant angle and feed in, they usually pick up manipulation pretty quick. Just a thought.

[LeadFoot]

Weld 1" at a time for begineers? I think not. It is much harder to start welding over a prevoius weld. For a beginner, the middle two look decent, outer ones are trash. When the weld goes fat-to-skinny-to fat again, thats indicating your not making a steady weld. The first couple of times your worried about getting the rod stuck to the metal, but when you get more expierence, you can focus more on the job.

WEAR PANTS THAT COVER YOUR BOOTS

I didn't, a piece of slag got wedged in there. You've never seen a white guy jump so high before if you would have been there.

[Rookie]

6013 is a drag rod...

[DM]

-=- originally posted by Rookie -=-
6013 is a drag rod...

Yup and 7018 is a "tap" rod