Weld Weld Grind

BiG_BooGeR · 11-06-2009, 11:25 PM

Got it looking decent. Im a new welder.

jpnjim · 11-07-2009, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BiG_BooGeR

Got it looking decent. Im a new welder.

Hard to tell from the pic,
but is that a seam running with-wise through the whole thing?
(kinda arching up, and over the bracket, right in the center of what you ground down)

Honestly looks like you didn't get penetration, and when you ground it down, you went completely through the weld (= nothing holding that together).

If it is the way it looks, I'd crank up the heat, and burn it in right along that entire crack/seam.

ToddH · 11-07-2009, 01:12 PM

What you did is a good example of what not to do. Not the end of the world, but things to be avoided in the future.

What you should have done was add a couple of gussets from the mount, extending up to the frame. And then just weld that out with a single pass. What you did wrong was add layer after layer like you did.

With the large weld, you created a huge "heat affected zone" around the weld area.
With every weld pass, the weld area shrinks some.
The guy above me nailed it on the line above the weld.....looks like incomplete fusion along the edge.
Also, you should really never grind the weld down. A few seconds cleaning the weld with a wire wheel or a scotchbrite-type disc should ever be all you need to do.
The exception.....grinding bad weld sections out to lay a new weld in....like areas of porosity, or other issues. You grind small areas, and then blend the new weld in.

So now you know....... more heat/little more wire. But keep the overall weld size minimal.
And keep practicing. That's the secret for doing anything well.

BiG_BooGeR · 11-07-2009, 02:24 PM

Ok the other one I did in like 5 minutes

how is it?

that is it the last one the rears are already on

BiG_BooGeR · 11-07-2009, 02:25 PM

oh i have a lincoln power mig 180 c
wire speed 3 1/4
heat between h and i but closer to i

AlxJ64 · 11-09-2009, 01:32 PM

You're moving too fast and not allowing the heat into the weld, turn the wirespeed down some and leave the heat alone and move slower.

11-06-2009, 11:25 PM	#1
BiG_BooGeR Registered Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: NE PA Posts: 1,166 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Weld Weld Grind Got it looking decent. Im a new welder. __________________ 2004 Wrangler X Electric Lime Green, 4.0, 5-Speed, 8.8, Detroit Locker, 4.88, Dana 30 Open, Clayton Hard Arm Suspension, RE 3.5" Coils, RE Mono-tube shocks, RE Adjustable Track Bar, JKS 1.25" BL, Rubicon Express Heavy Duty Slip Yoke Eliminator, Old Man Emu Steering Stabilizer, JKS HD Extended Brake Lines, Currie 1" Motor Mount Lift, Herculined Homebrew Highline Fenders, 37" Maxxis Creepy Crawlers, Poison Spyder Rear Stinger, Poison Spyder Trail Corners, Herculined 7" Omix Flares, Custom Cowl Intake, Infinity Kappa Speakers,Tint, Delta H4 Quadbar Xenon Headlights, Hella Black Magic Driving lights, Lite Dots, Tow hooks, Herculined Tub.

11-07-2009, 01:12 PM	#3
ToddH Registered Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Oceanside , Ca. Posts: 595 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	What you did is a good example of what not to do. Not the end of the world, but things to be avoided in the future. What you should have done was add a couple of gussets from the mount, extending up to the frame. And then just weld that out with a single pass. What you did wrong was add layer after layer like you did. With the large weld, you created a huge "heat affected zone" around the weld area. With every weld pass, the weld area shrinks some. The guy above me nailed it on the line above the weld.....looks like incomplete fusion along the edge. Also, you should really never grind the weld down. A few seconds cleaning the weld with a wire wheel or a scotchbrite-type disc should ever be all you need to do. The exception.....grinding bad weld sections out to lay a new weld in....like areas of porosity, or other issues. You grind small areas, and then blend the new weld in. So now you know....... more heat/little more wire. But keep the overall weld size minimal. And keep practicing. That's the secret for doing anything well. __________________

11-07-2009, 02:24 PM	#4
BiG_BooGeR Registered Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: NE PA Posts: 1,166 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ok the other one I did in like 5 minutes how is it? that is it the last one the rears are already on __________________ 2004 Wrangler X Electric Lime Green, 4.0, 5-Speed, 8.8, Detroit Locker, 4.88, Dana 30 Open, Clayton Hard Arm Suspension, RE 3.5" Coils, RE Mono-tube shocks, RE Adjustable Track Bar, JKS 1.25" BL, Rubicon Express Heavy Duty Slip Yoke Eliminator, Old Man Emu Steering Stabilizer, JKS HD Extended Brake Lines, Currie 1" Motor Mount Lift, Herculined Homebrew Highline Fenders, 37" Maxxis Creepy Crawlers, Poison Spyder Rear Stinger, Poison Spyder Trail Corners, Herculined 7" Omix Flares, Custom Cowl Intake, Infinity Kappa Speakers,Tint, Delta H4 Quadbar Xenon Headlights, Hella Black Magic Driving lights, Lite Dots, Tow hooks, Herculined Tub.

11-07-2009, 02:25 PM	#5
BiG_BooGeR Registered Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: NE PA Posts: 1,166 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	oh i have a lincoln power mig 180 c wire speed 3 1/4 heat between h and i but closer to i __________________ 2004 Wrangler X Electric Lime Green, 4.0, 5-Speed, 8.8, Detroit Locker, 4.88, Dana 30 Open, Clayton Hard Arm Suspension, RE 3.5" Coils, RE Mono-tube shocks, RE Adjustable Track Bar, JKS 1.25" BL, Rubicon Express Heavy Duty Slip Yoke Eliminator, Old Man Emu Steering Stabilizer, JKS HD Extended Brake Lines, Currie 1" Motor Mount Lift, Herculined Homebrew Highline Fenders, 37" Maxxis Creepy Crawlers, Poison Spyder Rear Stinger, Poison Spyder Trail Corners, Herculined 7" Omix Flares, Custom Cowl Intake, Infinity Kappa Speakers,Tint, Delta H4 Quadbar Xenon Headlights, Hella Black Magic Driving lights, Lite Dots, Tow hooks, Herculined Tub.

11-09-2009, 01:32 PM	#6
AlxJ64 Overthinking Underbuilder Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Norfolk/ Va Beach Va Posts: 266 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	You're moving too fast and not allowing the heat into the weld, turn the wirespeed down some and leave the heat alone and move slower. __________________ '97 Ol' Iron TJ, 4.0 - SM465- KLUNE Goliath/ Dana 20 -Shaved Eaton Rear - HP44 front w/ 6" Stretch, locked F/R on 38" Creepy Crawlers. 7/8ths Ton TJ Build Thread http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=497945 1 Ton Used to be a Rubicon Build http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=510398

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