Found my rear end clunk need help..

xxturbowesxx · 11-03-2009, 10:26 PM

Ive found the source of my rear end clunk the only problem is I cannot identify the part because my haynes manual is garbage. It is located on top of the axle at the mount that connects the axle to the body. I cannot find any pictures or diagrams anywhere on the internet of the WJ d44a.

johnnyc08 · 11-03-2009, 10:31 PM

how bout a personal pic? 1st guess without a pic is rear upper ball joints

jeep ride · 11-03-2009, 11:17 PM

control arm possiblely

FastSUV · 11-03-2009, 11:17 PM

+1

sounds like the ball joint on the upper control arm thingy

YHC2000WJ · 11-03-2009, 11:31 PM

There are 2 rubber bushings that connect the upper A-arm to the chassis. I just ordered a set though Kolak. Genuine Mopar replacement bushings @ $15 ea.

xxturbowesxx · 11-04-2009, 12:45 AM

Got some pics its dark and my digital is dead so I had to use my phone.

Strongt · 11-04-2009, 02:24 AM

That part is call a ball joint. It attaches the A-arm to the rear axle. # 8 in the pic.

xxturbowesxx · 11-04-2009, 03:32 AM

Looks like a bitc* to fix I may have to bring it to my mechanic.

04WJLimited · 11-04-2009, 09:06 AM

it is a bitch. if you can get the ball joint to break from the A-arm its not so bad. good luck!

SkiingRoss · 11-04-2009, 10:17 AM

It's easier to just take out the whole A-arm.

Spanky Malone · 11-04-2009, 11:17 AM

I recommend pulling the whole a-arm as well. Jack the vehicle up, put it on jack stands, and let the axle droop as far as the shocks/swaybar will allow. Then climb under there and sit indian style on the driver's side. Dis-assembly is easy, especially if you have an 18mm/19mm ratcheting flat wrench.... buy one (or a set) if you don't already own some. They make this and many other projects more manageable and less time consuming.

The ball-joint that sits on top of the rear axle is likely shot, but cannot be removed without a special puller or a large press (even once it's out of the Jeep). I had neither and simply swapped in a buddy's low-mileage a-arm left over from his Clayton's upgrade.

The ball-joint itself is only a $28 part. A shop can press the worn one out and a new one in for $10 in a half-hour or less.

Re-assembly is a bit trickier, and I'd recommend having a friend ready with a floor jack. You'll want to do the body mounts first, then with some assistance, have your friend jack up the rear axle to help you (under the Jeep, same as before) line up the bolt holes. You'll want to get all three started, and IIRC, you'll have to rotate the plate around to install the outside two bolts. Once they're started, it's simply sitting under there ratcheting away until they're tight. Your arm will be burning by this point.

A word of warning.... if you have a mild lift, even 2", I'd recommend adding an a-arm spacer. This is likely the cause of failure for your ball joint, as even mild lifts increase the angle at which it has to operate, causing excessive wear and premature failure. Not sure about others, but my Teraflex a-arm spacer used 21mm bolts, so make sure you've got the right wrenches before you get started.

HTH!

xxturbowesxx · 11-05-2009, 07:01 PM

REPLACED! I spent 50 on the part and 75 on the labor. Im glad I have a good/cheap mechanic. He said it was extremely rusted out and in bad shape. Its like I have a whole new jeep now. The only thing is my vari-lock lsd's arent working for jack and Im searching to see if they can be rebuilt/replaced cheap/easy.

11-03-2009, 10:26 PM	#1
xxturbowesxx Registered Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 170 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Found my rear end clunk need help.. PICS ADDED Ive found the source of my rear end clunk the only problem is I cannot identify the part because my haynes manual is garbage. It is located on top of the axle at the mount that connects the axle to the body. I cannot find any pictures or diagrams anywhere on the internet of the WJ d44a. __________________ Last edited by xxturbowesxx; 11-04-2009 at 01:13 AM.

11-03-2009, 10:31 PM	#2
johnnyc08 Registered Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 82 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	how bout a personal pic? 1st guess without a pic is rear upper ball joints __________________ 2001 WJ Laredo 4.0 146k miles

11-03-2009, 11:17 PM	#3
jeep ride Registered Join Date: May 2007 Location: WV Posts: 219 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	control arm possiblely __________________ 98 xj 4.0L auto trans 231 t\case jcr stage 1 sliders skid row gas tank skid cobra cb 3 inch long leaf 31 1050 mud grip tires

11-03-2009, 11:17 PM	#4
FastSUV Registered Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 4,143 Thanks: 8 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts	+1 sounds like the ball joint on the upper control arm thingy __________________ WJ - Laredo 4.0 - stock ZJ - 5.9 Limited - BB, LT265/75R16, misc bolt-ons Click HERE to see my Jeep page

11-03-2009, 11:31 PM	#5
YHC2000WJ Registered Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: ASHEVILLE, NC Posts: 1,838 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	There are 2 rubber bushings that connect the upper A-arm to the chassis. I just ordered a set though Kolak. Genuine Mopar replacement bushings @ $15 ea. __________________ 2000 WJ 4.5L Stroker. Locked, Lifted & Long-Armed Click-->Think you can beat me?

11-04-2009, 12:45 AM	#6
xxturbowesxx Registered Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 170 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Got some pics its dark and my digital is dead so I had to use my phone. __________________ Last edited by xxturbowesxx; 11-04-2009 at 01:12 AM.

11-04-2009, 03:32 AM	#8
xxturbowesxx Registered Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 170 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Looks like a bitc* to fix I may have to bring it to my mechanic. __________________

11-04-2009, 09:06 AM	#9
04WJLimited Registered Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Roselle, NJ Posts: 427 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	it is a bitch. if you can get the ball joint to break from the A-arm its not so bad. good luck! __________________ SIRA4X4.net

11-04-2009, 10:17 AM	#10
SkiingRoss Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Murfreesboro, TN; From: Knoxville, TN Posts: 1,185 Thanks: 6 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts	It's easier to just take out the whole A-arm. __________________ \| 4x4 Clubs Listing \| TN Virtual Jeep Club \| Current: 2002 WJ Laredo, V8, '03 Selec-Trac, '04 d44 w/ Vari-Lok, 4" Zone lift, '09 JK Wheels with 255/75/17 MT's 2001 330xi (AWD) 5 spd 1994 XJ (2wd) for the teenager Previously owned Jeeps: 76 CJ7, 93 YJ, 98 TJ, 99 WJ, 84 SJ, 83 CJ7, 90 XJ, 94 ZJ, 87 SJ, 97 ZJ

11-04-2009, 11:17 AM	#11
Spanky Malone Registered Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 969 Thanks: 1 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	I recommend pulling the whole a-arm as well. Jack the vehicle up, put it on jack stands, and let the axle droop as far as the shocks/swaybar will allow. Then climb under there and sit indian style on the driver's side. Dis-assembly is easy, especially if you have an 18mm/19mm ratcheting flat wrench.... buy one (or a set) if you don't already own some. They make this and many other projects more manageable and less time consuming. The ball-joint that sits on top of the rear axle is likely shot, but cannot be removed without a special puller or a large press (even once it's out of the Jeep). I had neither and simply swapped in a buddy's low-mileage a-arm left over from his Clayton's upgrade. The ball-joint itself is only a $28 part. A shop can press the worn one out and a new one in for $10 in a half-hour or less. Re-assembly is a bit trickier, and I'd recommend having a friend ready with a floor jack. You'll want to do the body mounts first, then with some assistance, have your friend jack up the rear axle to help you (under the Jeep, same as before) line up the bolt holes. You'll want to get all three started, and IIRC, you'll have to rotate the plate around to install the outside two bolts. Once they're started, it's simply sitting under there ratcheting away until they're tight. Your arm will be burning by this point. A word of warning.... if you have a mild lift, even 2", I'd recommend adding an a-arm spacer. This is likely the cause of failure for your ball joint, as even mild lifts increase the angle at which it has to operate, causing excessive wear and premature failure. Not sure about others, but my Teraflex a-arm spacer used 21mm bolts, so make sure you've got the right wrenches before you get started. HTH!

11-05-2009, 07:01 PM	#12
xxturbowesxx Registered Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 170 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	REPLACED! I spent 50 on the part and 75 on the labor. Im glad I have a good/cheap mechanic. He said it was extremely rusted out and in bad shape. Its like I have a whole new jeep now. The only thing is my vari-lock lsd's arent working for jack and Im searching to see if they can be rebuilt/replaced cheap/easy. __________________

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode