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Thread: NEED HELP...Which way adjustment wheel go to take off rear drum??

  1. #1
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    NEED HELP...Which way adjustment wheel go to take off rear drum??

    I started to take off the driver's side drum and forgot which way the adjustment wheel turned. Problem is, the wheel is very hard to turn and that brake is now to close to the drum preventing me from removing it.

    Can anyone tell me either "downward" or "upward" the adjustment wheel goes???

    Is this the same for the passenger side too??
    Thank you in advance

    ------------------
    1998 Wrangler Sport, I6 Auto, Borla-catback, Tuffy overhead console with CB and 3' firestik and scanner.
    1998 Wrangler Sport, I6 Auto, Borla head to tail, 31" BFG AT, Top-five rack for the Kayak.
    ** No lift, but still a Jeep **

  2. #2
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    I searched the posts and found one that said "downward".

    Is this true??

    ------------------
    1998 Wrangler Sport, I6 Auto, Borla-catback, Tuffy overhead console with CB and 3' firestik and scanner.
    1998 Wrangler Sport, I6 Auto, Borla head to tail, 31" BFG AT, Top-five rack for the Kayak.
    ** No lift, but still a Jeep **

  3. #3
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    Not sure but one way should be harder than the other. Which ever way is more difficult, thats the way you need to go. You should stick a screwdriver in there to push a clip off the teeth and then turn it. The other way is turn it a bunch in one direction and if it gets harder turn it twice as much the other. Kind of a pita but effective. Sorry I dont have the "up" "down" answer you are looking for.
    HTH

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  4. #4
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    You shouldn't have to adjust it at all. If you're replacing the pads give it a couple whacks all the way around with a mallet to loosen it up because of all the accumulated crap and it should slide off pretty easily. Oh, and make sure you don't have your e-brake on.

  5. #5
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    Thumbs up

    Thanks guys....

    My experience from the beginning, I gave the adjuster a couple turns the wrong way (not knowing which way was correct). Then I tried to turn to the other way (downwards) to loosen it.

    The only way I could budge it was to bang on it with a hammer and screwdriver with lots of penetrating oil. Well, 3 hours later I found that the star wheel was free spooling and it was no longer connected to the threads. There were 5 threads left until it reached the end.

    Plan B: I pried the drum off with many screwdrivers, a crowbar and a 3 pound hammer. I tore through the pads on one side after the drum was part off. Then, pounded on the side of the drum to vibrate the other side.

    I was left with 2 broken shoes, broken adjuster, broken springs and a scored wheel cylinder boot.

    (The passenger side drum slide off after turning the adjuster the correct way, “downward”)

    What a bitch rear brakes are!!!
    1998 Wrangler Sport, I6 Auto, Borla head to tail, 31" BFG AT, Top-five rack for the Kayak.
    ** No lift, but still a Jeep **

  6. #6
    If you turn the star wheel in the direction that it easily turns you are tightening the pads against the drum. This is the wrong way if you want to loosen the drum. There is a ratchet type mechanism that only allows the star wheel to tighten during normal operation. This is the automatic adjusters (that do not work very well, by the way). To loosen the star wheel you have to put a narrow screw driver through the access hole past the adjuster mechanism and push a spring loaded tab away from the star wheel. The star wheel can now be turned in the opposite direction and loosened.
    When I have the drums off I try to study the mechanism so that I can more easily do the adjustment later blind (with the wheel and drum installed).

    Hope this helps.

    ------------------
    2000 TJ Sport,5 speed, BFG 31x10.5's on Jeep Grizzly wheels, Dual Top, Smittybuilt nerf bars (I hear they suck but I think they look good), Tuffy 'behind the rear seat' lock box, CBrack.com CB Rack,
    2000 Silver TJ Sport, 4.0L, 5 speed, BFG 31x10.5's on Jeep Grizzly wheels, Hard Top, Smittybuilt nerf bars, Tuffy Security Console Insert, Tuffy 'behind the rear seat' lock box, Garvin Wilderness Rack, CBrack.com CB Rack

  7. #7
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    <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by TonyH:
    If you turn the star wheel in the direction that it easily turns you are tightening the pads against the drum. This is the wrong way if you want to loosen the drum. There is a ratchet type mechanism that only allows the star wheel to tighten during normal operation. This is the automatic adjusters (that do not work very well, by the way). To loosen the star wheel you have to put a narrow screw driver through the access hole past the adjuster mechanism and push a spring loaded tab away from the star wheel. The star wheel can now be turned in the opposite direction and loosened.
    When I have the drums off I try to study the mechanism so that I can more easily do the adjustment later blind (with the wheel and drum installed).

    Hope this helps.

    </font>
    Thanks,
    It was hard to find the auto adjuster lever. I did poke a small screwdriver in there and tried to turn the star wheel, but she didn't want to turn. I later found small piece of metal from the shoe that might of prevented it from turning somehow. But I doubt it.
    I did finally get the drum off in my above post, but with many broken pieces.
    1998 Wrangler Sport, I6 Auto, Borla head to tail, 31" BFG AT, Top-five rack for the Kayak.
    ** No lift, but still a Jeep **

  8. #8
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    [quote]<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 98_BLACK_TJ:
    Originally posted by TonyH:
    It was hard to find the auto adjuster lever. I did poke a small screwdriver in there and tried to turn the star wheel, but she didn't want to turn. I later found small piece of metal from the shoe that might of prevented it from turning somehow. But I doubt it.
    I did finally get the drum off in my above post, but with many broken pieces.
    </font>
    I have to admit, this is why I have no problem doing disc pads but I have anything with drums done at a local shop. The hassle factor is high enough that it's worth it to pay someone else to deal with it...

  9. #9
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    Adjustment: downward is tightening, upward is loosening.

    Don't know what to tell ya on the difficulty, I've done a few and just bang around the inside edge with a hammer, while pulling with my other hand.

    Did you have the ebrake engaged?
    -------------
    98 TJ, 4.0,

  10. #10
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    Exclamation

    No the E-brake was never engaged at all.

    I just fished with the rear brake project:

    Along with replacing the brakes and drums, I also replaced both wheel cylinders.

    WARNING to any future jeeper who removes the brake lines from the cylinders. The line usually is rusted onto the fitting preventing the turning of the fitting. I had to spray lots of rust eater and back and forth turning of the fitting to get it off. I almost was going to cut the steel line and replace it with a new line.
    During and after bleeding (my knuckles were also bleeding), I was having leaks in the thread of the connectors. I fixed this be carefully snugging down the fitting. Next time it's two new lines with new fittings.

    I hate brakes…

    1998 Wrangler Sport, I6 Auto, Borla head to tail, 31" BFG AT, Top-five rack for the Kayak.
    ** No lift, but still a Jeep **

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