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Thread: Power steering pump pulley removal...

  1. #1
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    Post Power steering pump pulley removal...

    My PS pump started to leak today so I went out and bought a new pump and a pulley puller. At the center of the pulley there is a large allen bolt. I tried to loosen that with an allen wrench, and lots of liquid wrench, no good. I tried heating it, no good. All I ended up doing was slightly bending the pulley at the holes (I had a very large nail in there to prevent the pulley from turning as I cranked on the allen bolt). I tried putting the puller on top of the allen bolt, that obviously didn't work. Is there a trick to this at all?

    Thanks,

    - Joe

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    AIM: joec2000 | Pics and mod list
    '94 Grand Cherokee 5.2L V8, 121k miles, Ford 8.8 w/ POSI, NV242, headers, custom-built 3" stainless exhaust, Mopar Performance ECU, K&N FIPK, custom-built 4 wheel disc brakes, Flowkooler water pump
    Import Performance Transmissions custom 46RH trans and torque converter

  2. #2
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    Cool

    Hey,
    Replaced mine about 3 weeks ago. PAin in the butt to get that pulley off. But you just have to work at it. Helps if u have the right puller, I used a harmonized puller and it was tough but like I said keep at it. I never had to loosen any allen type bolts on it either. I bent the holes in the pulley a little aswell but did not seem to matter.
    Hope it works out for you

    ------------------
    96 Laredo 4.0
    All 3 skids
    2" BB
    Still trying to get those damn tow hooks!
    06 Wrangler 4.0
    4.0" lift
    33" MTZ's

  3. #3
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    <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by matwaz:
    Let your fingers do the walking. A quick browse through the archives yeilded these posts. Hope they help.
    http://forums.jeepsunlimited.coom/ub...ML/003320.html
    http://forums.jeepsunlimited.coom/ub...ML/002252.html
    The general consensus seems to be get the right puller and read the directions. Funny how that works sometimes, huh?

    </font>
    Read those already before I even started. I'll try it again, I hope nothing breaks.

    - Joe
    '94 Grand Cherokee 5.2L V8, 121k miles, Ford 8.8 w/ POSI, NV242, headers, custom-built 3" stainless exhaust, Mopar Performance ECU, K&N FIPK, custom-built 4 wheel disc brakes, Flowkooler water pump
    Import Performance Transmissions custom 46RH trans and torque converter

  4. #4
    Senior ********* Taz's Avatar
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    Are you using a 2 jaw style puller? If so, the 2 jaws are supposed to grab onto the pulley hub, and the main screw is supposed to push on the pulley shaft where you see the allen hole.
    slate 5.9 Limited, 6" lift, IRO/JKS/OME/Bilstein, 285's, Ford 8.8 w/Artec truss, '95 ZJ NP231 w/Novak shift cable & full SYE, straight piped, 6 pass trans cooler, police pkg alt, Optima Red, ZG front markers, front park light & turn mod, quad tails, Boston Acoustic/JL's, in dash flip up DVD, black windows, U jointed shafts all around, tow pkg & U.C.

    Stone white 5.9 on 30's, glass ECE's w/custom harness, u jointed front driveshaft, clear corners. Pretty much bone stock, and will stay that way

  5. #5
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    <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 94_V8_ZJ:
    Read those already before I even started. I'll try it again, I hope nothing breaks.

    - Joe
    </font>
    Nevermind, puller broke the pulley. There MUST be something more to this.

    - Joe
    '94 Grand Cherokee 5.2L V8, 121k miles, Ford 8.8 w/ POSI, NV242, headers, custom-built 3" stainless exhaust, Mopar Performance ECU, K&N FIPK, custom-built 4 wheel disc brakes, Flowkooler water pump
    Import Performance Transmissions custom 46RH trans and torque converter

  6. #6
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    Yup, it is a 2 jaw, used exactly like you said. The jaws pulled the hub apart and there isn't much left to grab on to.

    - Joe
    '94 Grand Cherokee 5.2L V8, 121k miles, Ford 8.8 w/ POSI, NV242, headers, custom-built 3" stainless exhaust, Mopar Performance ECU, K&N FIPK, custom-built 4 wheel disc brakes, Flowkooler water pump
    Import Performance Transmissions custom 46RH trans and torque converter

  7. #7
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    <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by matwaz:
    Man, that sucks. Hope you are taking pics and doing a writeup afterward to save others the potential frustration.

    FYI, the pump/resiviour that GM used throughout the eighties was nearly impossible to remove also.
    </font>
    Oh I will I just put batteries in the camera to charge.

    - Joe
    '94 Grand Cherokee 5.2L V8, 121k miles, Ford 8.8 w/ POSI, NV242, headers, custom-built 3" stainless exhaust, Mopar Performance ECU, K&N FIPK, custom-built 4 wheel disc brakes, Flowkooler water pump
    Import Performance Transmissions custom 46RH trans and torque converter

  8. #8
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    Ok, I got the pulley off, but it isn't pretty. Here is the trick... Heat the hub of the pulley until you can just barely see it glow. Grab the pump, dunk it in cold water and it will come off very easily. Question... by doing that, I know I changed the temper of the metal (made it stronger and more brittle). Is this something I have to worry about breaking? Why don't they just key the pump shaft and put a hex bolt in it? Who designed these things!!??

    - Joe
    '94 Grand Cherokee 5.2L V8, 121k miles, Ford 8.8 w/ POSI, NV242, headers, custom-built 3" stainless exhaust, Mopar Performance ECU, K&N FIPK, custom-built 4 wheel disc brakes, Flowkooler water pump
    Import Performance Transmissions custom 46RH trans and torque converter

  9. #9
    Senior ********* Taz's Avatar
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    <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 94_V8_ZJ:
    Ok, I got the pulley off, but it isn't pretty. Here is the trick... Heat the hub of the pulley until you can just barely see it glow. Grab the pump, dunk it in cold water and it will come off very easily. Question... by doing that, I know I changed the temper of the metal (made it stronger and more brittle). Is this something I have to worry about breaking? Why don't they just key the pump shaft and put a hex bolt in it? Who designed these things!!??

    - Joe
    </font>
    Glad to hear you got it off, I know the pulley is a PITA to get off sometimes. My F-150 has the same style press-fit pulley and it does get frustrating if you don't have the right tool, that's why I invested in a P/S pulley puller.

    Taz


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    '93 ZJ, Laredo, NP249, 5.2L, black, crimson interior, Alpine CD player, Orion amp, Kicker 12" sub, Q-logic box, sunroof, 30" glasspack, Anthony's 2"BB, OME SD40, airbox mods with K&N drop-in filter, relocated IAT, partial Kolak ignition, CSF 3-core radiator, custom JU.com stickers. Coming soon: NP231 w/SYE.
    '99 TJ SE, 2.5L, 5 speed, black, Pioneer stereo, 2 tops, Dunlop Radial Rovers, pretty much stock.
    AIM: Taz93ZJ
    I hate winter.
    slate 5.9 Limited, 6" lift, IRO/JKS/OME/Bilstein, 285's, Ford 8.8 w/Artec truss, '95 ZJ NP231 w/Novak shift cable & full SYE, straight piped, 6 pass trans cooler, police pkg alt, Optima Red, ZG front markers, front park light & turn mod, quad tails, Boston Acoustic/JL's, in dash flip up DVD, black windows, U jointed shafts all around, tow pkg & U.C.

    Stone white 5.9 on 30's, glass ECE's w/custom harness, u jointed front driveshaft, clear corners. Pretty much bone stock, and will stay that way

  10. #10
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    Sorry I didnt see this post before but you guys are doin it wrong. There is a special puller for power steering pumps. It attaches to the hub in the center of the puller. The screw just pushes in the very center of the shaft. You dont need to heat anything. The correct puller has a place to put a wrench on the outside part and you use another wrench on the bolt. They just pop right off no sweat. You do not use a "jaw" type puller on these things. It is a special use tool so most people dont bother to buy one.
    93 4.0 Limited gone to brother,265 and counting.
    99 JGC Limited I-6 QT2
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