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Thread: Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner Write-up.

  1. #1
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    Wink Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner Write-up.

    Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner
    (Cleaning carbon build-up from engine)

    Parts Needed:
    -1 can of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner\2 cans if performing STEP 2 (available at local Chrysler dealer...$7 per can)
    -New set of spark plugs(optional)
    -Correct amount of new engine oil(ONLY if performing STEP 2)
    -New oil filter(ONLY if performing STEP 2)
    -Toothbrush
    -Clean rag
    -Long thin tube(I bought a funnel that came with a long thin tube connected to it at Pep Boys...will come in handy in STEP 2)
    -(1) Bottle of Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner(PepBoys, Autozone)

    NOTE: Total time should be 60-90 minutes. This includes waiting time.

    *If performing STEP 2, I recommend doing this entire procedure at the time of your next oil change only because I advise changing engine oil and filter afterwards.

    Also, before doing anything, a good idea is to first loosen up the spark plugs and then re-tighten them back ONLY to a snug fit(not too tight). This will make life a lot easier when removing the spark plugs in STEP 2.

    1). Cleaning carbon from throttle body, intake manifold, combustion chamber and valves:

    Start the engine and let it idle or take the Jeep out for a drive until it reaches normal operating temperature(engine should be hot). Turn off engine. Remove the air hose from the throttle body. With engine OFF, spray some Mopar CCC onto throttle plate(not too much) and linkage and clean off carbon using a small tooth brush(make sure you clean the bottom of the throttle plate also). Wipe off dissolved carbon with clean rag……should shine like new. Start the engine(make sure it's hot) and spray the entire can of Mopar CCC into the throttle body….the intake manifold vacuum will suck it in. You may have smoke coming out of the tailpipe during this, and your idle may drop or even try to stall…..this is normal. It’s important NOT to rev the engine during this but to keep a steady idle around 1000-1200 RPM by controlling the idle with your hand on the throttle body spring pack(a glove may come in handy since the throttle spring pack may be hot). When can is empty, shut off the engine IMMEDIATELY. Reconnect the air hose to the throttle body.
    *If you are NOT performing STEP 2, then wait 20 minutes before performing STEP3.


    2). Cleaning carbon from the pistons:

    Remove the spark plugs and spray half a can of Mopar CCC(divided evenly) into the cylinders through the open spark plug holes. If you have trouble spraying into one of the plug holes, try using a funnel or small tube to guide the cleaner into the plug hole or else try to aim as best you could. Reinstall plugs then give the engine a few QUICK cranks(a couple of seconds each time) to mix up the cleaner(DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE WITH FLUID IN THE CYLINDERS). Wait 30 minutes then remove the spark plugs. QUICKLY crank the engine over a couple of times(again, a couple of seconds each time) to eject any excess cleaner out of the open plug holes to help prevent possible hydro-lock. Might be a bit messy but important. Reinstall original plugs.


    3). Start the engine(may need to fire it up a several times). Once started, DO NOT let it just sit and idle or else the carbon will just re-cook in your engine. Rather, rev the engine to 3000-3500 RPM's 10-15 times repeatidly. Again, don't be surprised if you see A LOT of smoke...it's normal. Take the Jeep out and drive it hard for a few minutes. This will do a good job of cleaning out any excess carbon from the engine. Afterwards, I stopped at a gas station to refill and pour in a bottle of Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner. This does a nice job of making sure everything is nice and clean(not absolutely necessary but I thought it would be a good idea).

    4). Install new spark plugs if you decided to get a new set. If STEP2 was peformed then change engine oil and filter since the cleaner may have passed by the piston rings.

    *Result...Clean throttle body, intake manifold, valves, combustion chamber and pistons.

    *Bonus*...NO MORE PINGING!(unless you have another issue).

  2. #2
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    Thumbs up

    Thanks Eric! Nice job!

    ------------------
    1998 5.9 Limited Deep Slate
    K&N FIPK, Flowmaster/Custom Y-Pipe, Tail-Pipe & Carsound Cat, Mopar Performance PCM, MSD 6A & Blaster SS Coil w/ 8.5mm Wires, 180 T-Stat, All Synthetics Throughout, Hotchkis Lowering Springs, Addco F+R Anti-Sway Bars w/ Energy Bushings, 255/55/16 Pirelli Scorpion Zero Tires, Fully Tinted, PIAA Super White Driving & Fog Bulbs, Clear Corners, Kolak Light Harness Upgrade, Custom & Concealed V1 Radar-
    My_5.9_Garage
    1998 5.9 Limited Deep Slate
    K&N FIPK, Flowmaster/Custom Y-Pipe, Tail-Pipe & Carsound Cat, MSD 6A & Blaster SS Coil w/ 8.5mm Wires, 180 T-Stat, Speed Tweaks IAT Adjuster, All Synthetics Throughout, Hotchkis Lowering Springs, Addco F+R Anti-Sway Bars w/ Energy Bushings, 255/55/16 Pirelli Scorpion Zero Tires, Fully Tinted, PIAA Super White Driving & Fog Bulbs, Clear Corners, Kolak Light Harness Upgrade, Custom & Concealed V1 Radar-
    My_5.9_Garage

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    Exclamation

    Great stuff. Question: how often should this be done ?

    Ray
    1997 4.0 ZG black Limited, skidplate package, 245/70/16 Yokohama Super Digger 816s, factory rims with blackened accents, Mopar black aluminium running boards, window visors, rear deflector, door edge guards, mudflaps, chrome grille, Chrysler Jeep Eagle hood ornament, wiper stands, Bryman throttle body spacer, 50% Kolak ignition, K&N filtercharger, Edelbrock IAS shock absorbers & more coming in future...

  4. #4
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    Question

    How much does this cleaner cost at the dealer?
    '03 TJ Sport with goodies to come
    For Sale: '94 YJ 2.5L, 5sp, 2.5" BDS AAL, Trailmaster SS shocks, K&N, Herculined, 31" BFG MT-KMs on AR OutlawI, Hella500s, KCs, Cobra75 CB, FirestickII,
    Michigan Jeepers
    JeepFabrication.com

  5. #5
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    Cost about 7 bucks a can.
    94 ZJ I6, Rusty's Airtube w/K&N Filter, Carsound, FM 70, MLTP, 2" BB, All Skids, OME SS, 30X9.50X15 Pirelli Scorpion AT's, Kolak ignition, Lighting Bipass Harness, 3.73, Tow Pkg

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    Thumbs up

    Good stuff Eric, I am going to put this it to my files

    ------------------
    98 ZJ 5.2 V8 Loaded
    My Jeep
    98 ZJ 5.2 V8 Loaded
    My Jeep

  7. #7
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    Cool

    <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by hanifrez:
    Great stuff. Question: how often should this be done ?

    Ray
    </font>
    Not too often. I'd say every 25K miles.



    ------------------
    98 ZJ I6 4.0L - Select Trac
    K&N filter - Amsoil fluids - Bilstein HD shocks - Rancho 5000 steering stablizer - Bosch Platinum +4 spark plugs - Bosch Premium wire set - Bosch cap & rotor - Bosch Platinum O2 sensors - Michelin ATX A/T tires - Coming soon...Edelbrock 5510 RPM 2.5" muffler, Mike Leach 2.5" tailpipe, Magnecor 8.5MM wires, Accel coil and adapter.

  8. #8
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    at the dealer here, they are only stocking honda cleaner. apparently that is what akk of the jeep techs are using. supposed to be stronger or somthing.
    95.JGC,318. 4.5" re/uc f/r swap, ltd, bfg 32muds, k&N FIPK, 3" exhaust, 70 flowmaster, low temp stat, mopar pcu, dt 3000 shocks, leach headers, kolak ignition upgrade, relocated iat(alla dino), custom tb.
    and now featuring the beefy arb bull bar. pics soon.

    pics: click and paste the link, i cant get this frickin' thing to work. believe me, i've tried.
    http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.asp?userid=peepers&album_id=71040

  9. #9
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    Thumbs up

    I did the Mopar CCC cleaning today. The first time I did was a couple of weeks ago but I did not do it right.

    This is the wrong way:
    After spraying the can of Mopar CCC into the throttle body, I shut the engine off and let it sit for 20 minutes but when I started the engine back up, I let it just sit and idle instead of reving the engine. Plus I reved the engine a few times while spraying into the TB at first....supposed to just let it idle steady while spraying. I knew I did it wrong because there was no smoke coming out the tailpipe. Plus I didn't spray it through the spark plug holes(it's not absolutely necessary but to clean the carbon off the pistons better then do it...that's why I did it. Might as well kill 2 birds with 1 stone.)

    The right way:
    This time though I followed my exact steps that I wrote-up in this post and WOW what a difference. First of all, after I got done with the second step and waited the 20 minutes, started the engine and man the amount of white smoke that came out of the tailpipes was amazing. I reved the engine to 3500 rpms probably 20 times and white smoke kept flowing out the tailpipe like crazy....I'm thinking "Cheach and Chong...Up in Smoke". The white smoke lasted a good minute or so as I kept reving to 3500rpm and then started turning blue. I then backed out of my driveway and took the Jeep for a ride. I drove the heck out of it for the first couple of minutes and the smoke gradually disappeared. I then took a 10 minute drive on the freeway to make sure everything cleaned out nicely. On my way back home I drove up this steep hill that always gave me pinging and this time there was NO PINGING. Hopefully the carbon build up I had was the cause of my pinging but I guess I have to wait and see. BTW, it took me about 10 tries to finally get the engine fired up. After the 5th time I finally heard one of the cylinders fire up then another and another until finally after 10 times or so the engine finally fired up. One thing I forgot to mention in my write up is that it's probably wise to have a good charged battery. You don't want a battery on it's last few cycles when doing the cleaning(especially if you're doing step 2) or else you'll find yourself having a tough time starting the engine and maybe even killing the battery. I still have my original battery on my ZJ(57K miles) and worked just fine. Just make sure you have a good charge.

    Good luck when doing yours.

    ------------------
    98 ZJ I6 4.0L - Select Trac
    K&N filter - Amsoil fluids - Bilstein HD shocks - Rancho 5000 steering stablizer - Bosch Platinum +4 spark plugs - Bosch Premium wire set - Bosch cap & rotor - Bosch Platinum O2 sensors - Michelin ATX A/T tires - Coming soon...Edelbrock 5510 RPM 2.5" muffler, Mike Leach 2.5" tailpipe, Magnecor 8.5MM wires, Accel coil and adapter.


    [This message has been edited by EricZJ (edited 12-11-2001).]

  10. #10
    Registered desertbuzz's Avatar
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    Question

    wouldn't any off the shelf carb and injector cleaner spray do the same job??

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    Smile

    This is the kind of stuff that I come to JU to learn about and to implement into my own use. Thank you
    Brett
    '95 ZJ 5.2L V8
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    -------------------------
    Future: ARB, Stealthbox, winch,

  12. #12
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    500+ miles of driving since doing the Mopar CCC...still NO PINGING.

    Knock on wood.

    ------------------
    98 ZJ I6 4.0L-Select Trac
    K&N air filter-Amsoil fluids-Bilstein HD shocks-Rancho 5000 steering stablizer-Autolite platinum plugs(.040 gap)-Magnecor KV85 ignition wires-Accel high output coil-Bosch cap & rotor-Bosch O2 sensors-Michelin LTX A/T tires-Edelbrock 5510 RPM 2.5" muffler, Mike Leach 2.5" tailpipe.

  13. #13
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    Thumbs up

    Glad it worked out good for ya. Great writeup!! I just copied it to my files.. George
    '02 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L V8 Onyx Green-K&N FIPK :shadey:
    '93 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L I6(Sold)
    My other Jeep is a 1994 Pearl Aqua Harley Davidson Ultra Classic Electra Glide :mypony:

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    Wink

    Thanks for the great write-up! I am doing the CC in 700 miles.....next oil change.-
    1998 5.9 Limited Deep Slate
    K&N FIPK, Flowmaster/Custom Y-Pipe, Tail-Pipe & Carsound Cat, MSD 6A & Blaster SS Coil w/ 8.5mm Wires, 180 T-Stat, Speed Tweaks IAT Adjuster, All Synthetics Throughout, Hotchkis Lowering Springs, Addco F+R Anti-Sway Bars w/ Energy Bushings, 255/55/16 Pirelli Scorpion Zero Tires, Fully Tinted, PIAA Super White Driving & Fog Bulbs, Clear Corners, Kolak Light Harness Upgrade, Custom & Concealed V1 Radar-
    My_5.9_Garage

  15. #15
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    Talking

    Just did the Combustion Chamber cleaning project. I 'd like to add a suggestion to add to the writeup, Eric.
    I desconnected the connectors and throttle cables from the TD and removed it from the engine. I then removed the IAC and TPS sensor and cleaned them with the CCC. I then cleaned the whole TB, wiped it out and reinstalled onto the Intake manifold and reconnected everything.I think this really makes for a more thorough TB cleaning.
    Then I did your writeup, which was great! All done and much better response and smoother idle..LOTSO SMOKE for about 10 Minutes!! Loved it!!.... Thanks George

    [This message has been edited by 93JerseyZJ_George (edited 12-13-2001).]
    '02 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L V8 Onyx Green-K&N FIPK :shadey:
    '93 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L I6(Sold)
    My other Jeep is a 1994 Pearl Aqua Harley Davidson Ultra Classic Electra Glide :mypony:

  16. #16
    Senior Moderator CerOf's Avatar
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    I used Berryman's carb cleaner and it worked for me.
    Pictures
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  17. #17

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    Bet you guys didn't get a cool fireball out the throttle body like me

    DON"T ask please. It's shameful.

    ------------------
    1998 5.9 ZJ Platinum
    31k Miles

    2" Tera BB, KevinF's Rock Sliderz, Yakima rack and basket. 245/75/16 Goodyear MT/R's. (More to come, Mike Leach headers, Kolak Exhaust w/70 series, K&N FIPK, ARB Front Bumper, and more goodies)
    1998 5.9 ZJ Platinum
    AIM-Jeeps59

    ***Mods on the way***
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  18. #18
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    The one thing about this that makes me a little nervous is spraying the CCC driectly into the Combustion Chambers. The can does not say anything about this. I am especially nervous about restarting w/ a significant amount still in one or two of the chambers. Thats just like having water in there isn't it? Well maybe not EXACTLY like it, but you see my point. Also after you spray the CCC in the first time, wait 10 minutes, restart and DO NOT rev up your engine, all the particles will cause excess heat buildup in your cat and may cause premature failure.
    Black 93 ZJ 4.0L& AW4 w/Teraflex/RE 3" w/ DT Shocks, JKS "quicker" disconnects, RE stainless brake lines, 31X10.50 BF MT KO, Turbo City Intake, CB, Flowmaster OR 44, ARB BullBar, MSD 8.0 wires, ORGS rear trackbar, Rusty's 1/4" skid, Kevins Trackbar & Bracket, FMS 24# injectors, Claytons Hard Rockers, Borla Header, 297 U-joint axles, Stillen rotors, np242 swap, IRO adjustable rear lower CA's, Aussie-locked in the rear!

  19. #19

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    It's fine to spray in your combustion chambers. It evaporates rather quickly anyways. When you spray the CCC in the CC (too many C's!) stuff a CLEAN and LINT FREE rag over each plug hole. After about 30 minutes, turn your motor over a few times (few quick cranks) and that will eject most of the liquid. Install plugs, and you're on your way.

    Just don't forget one of the plug wires and leave it sparking against the throttle body while you're spraying the CCC in there. DAMN nice fireball will appear. Spectacular if you do it at about 6pm. Be prepared with a new set of pants close by.
    1998 5.9 ZJ Platinum
    AIM-Jeeps59

    ***Mods on the way***
    RockKrawler 7" Long Arm Suspension
    35x12.5x15 GoodYear MT/R Tires on 15x8 3.75"BS Daytona Black Steelies
    Kevin's round sliderz

  20. #20
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    JD 5.9 is right.....thanks JD. I have all that documented in my write-up anyway:

    Crank the engine over a couple of times again to eject any excess cleaner out of the open plug holes to help prevent possible hydro-lock.


    ------------------
    98 ZJ I6 4.0L-Select Trac
    K&N air filter-Amsoil fluids-Bilstein HD shocks-Rancho 5000 steering stablizer-Autolite platinum plugs(.040 gap)-Magnecor KV85 ignition wires-Accel high output coil-Bosch cap & rotor-Bosch O2 sensors-Michelin LTX A/T tires-Edelbrock 5510 RPM 2.5" muffler, Mike Leach 2.5" tailpipe.

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