Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 24

Thread: WJ 4.0 Head Gasket Replacement Procedure???

  1. #1

    Icon922 WJ 4.0 Head Gasket Replacement Procedure???

    On my '01 WJ stocker that has a bad head gasket. Do I need to really remove the who front-end to do the job? Or can I leave all that in tack since I am not replacing the cam or timing chain? I am referring to this writeup:

    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...ement-1264814/

    This is my stock beater 2wd WJ so the least amount of money spent to fix it is what i am looking for...I have been told to at least replace the head bolts too...can anyone add anything that is a "MUST" when doing this job on the 4.0?

    Many thanks!

  2. #2
    LowRid3r_R/T lowrider_rt2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    seven1seven, PA
    Posts
    752

    Icon922

    Quote Originally Posted by FastSUV View Post
    On my '01 WJ stocker that has a bad head gasket. Do I need to really remove the who front-end to do the job? Or can I leave all that in tack since I am not replacing the cam or timing chain? I am referring to this writeup:

    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...ement-1264814/

    This is my stock beater 2wd WJ so the least amount of money spent to fix it is what i am looking for...I have been told to at least replace the head bolts too...can anyone add anything that is a "MUST" when doing this job on the 4.0?

    Many thanks!
    removing the front end only makes for more room. get a head bolt kit for $32. i would replace your t-stat while you got it off. its only $8. i would check hoses for soft spots/cracks since theyll be moved around alot. valve cover gasket $28. head gasket $22. inspect the head for any damage. personally i would change the oil after doing the job, since you cant catch all the coolant that leaks into the cylinders.
    2000 WJ, silver & black, 4.7 full time 4x4, 5.5" lift, 33's, tinted windows, truck bed lined all plastics, led interior lights, 4300k hid high/low & fogs, roof rack basket, cold air intake, iro rock sliders

    2000 dodge dakota r/t, intense blue w/ pearl, bagged, 20's, 4 tv's, ps2, 2-12" subs, 2500 watt amp, custom bed, nitrogen bottle w/ bottle bracket, stage 2 jet chip, cold air intake, tb spacer, 180 t-stat

    1989 ford ranger, rat rod flat black with lime green keystone klassic wheels, lime green custon flamed skull grill insert, 08 yzf 450 yoshimura exhaust, propane injected exhaust flame thrower

    "TWEEKmods"
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/394892...ort-utility-4d

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lowrider_rt2000 View Post
    removing the front end only makes for more room. get a head bolt kit for $32. i would replace your t-stat while you got it off. its only $8. i would check hoses for soft spots/cracks since theyll be moved around alot. valve cover gasket $28. head gasket $22. inspect the head for any damage. personally i would change the oil after doing the job, since you cant catch all the coolant that leaks into the cylinders.
    Thanks for the reply...I have a new t-stat already, and I did plan to do an oil change. Also, Instead of buying the gaskets separately like you mention, I was gonna get a head set that includes ALL gaskets needed for this job. It is pricey but I mean what can I do, I have to have intake gaskets and such too?

    So what you are telling me is, that i CAN do this job without removing the front clip and radiator and stuff?

  4. #4
    Right Wing Extremist TrojanMan06's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sparta, MO
    Posts
    2,297

    Default

    I wont even look at the write up and tell you that you dont need to take the front apart. Im sure it makes it easier but who cares if it adds hours of extra work. Ive never had to do a headjob on a 4.0 but they are all basically the same and will be pretty straight forward.
    93 ZJ 4.0 AW4 Reborn!!-
    310,894 miles-Replaced with 40k engine
    Rebuilt 249 TC-Soon to be 231hd
    4.5" IRO w/ 33x12.50R15 BFG KM2s
    IRO Front Long Arms, IRO Adjustable Rear Arms
    Straight Piped, Durango Steering Box


    98 ZJ 4.0-FOR SALE
    210,*** miles-Replaced w/ 82k engine
    242 TC
    3.5" w/ 33x12.50R15s

    “They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.” - Ben Franklin

    "I dont like repeat offenders, I like dead offenders" - Ted Nugent

    "Congressmen who willfully take actions during wartime that damage morale and undermine the military are saboteurs and should be arrested, exiled, or hanged." -Abraham Lincoln 1863

  5. #5
    Registered Teacherstoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Grant, Michigan
    Posts
    649

    Default

    I am in the process of replacing the pistons in my sons Jeep. I didn't even think about removing the front end. NOT NEEDED DON"T DO IT. Okay was that clear enough? the hardest parts of this job are getting the manifolds off- Get a 14mm gear wrench it will save you a bucket of time. And spending $20 on the socket for the head bolts. That's a 12pt 13mm 1/2"drive deep well socket. Can't get that at AZ!
    '00 WJ Laredo
    '00 WJ Laredo
    '01 WJ Laredo
    Life is Grand

    Jeep Maintenance Department Director

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Teacherstoy View Post
    I am in the process of replacing the pistons in my sons Jeep. I didn't even think about removing the front end. NOT NEEDED DON"T DO IT. Okay was that clear enough? the hardest parts of this job are getting the manifolds off- Get a 14mm gear wrench it will save you a bucket of time. And spending $20 on the socket for the head bolts. That's a 12pt 13mm 1/2"drive deep well socket. Can't get that at AZ!
    Thanks for the info...I have a 13mm deep 12pt but it is a 3/8" drive..you think I can use an adapter so it will work with my torque wrench or is the 1/2" socket a "must"?

  7. #7
    Registered Teacherstoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Grant, Michigan
    Posts
    649

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FastSUV View Post
    Thanks for the info...I have a 13mm deep 12pt but it is a 3/8" drive..you think I can use an adapter so it will work with my torque wrench or is the 1/2" socket a "must"?
    Using the adapter wont give you completely accurate readings but should work for reassembly. OTOH you might wreck your tools when you take it apart. I used my 1/2" ratchet and a 18" pipe to break them loose. Unless you have high 3/8"end tools you may break them. Good luck.
    '00 WJ Laredo
    '00 WJ Laredo
    '01 WJ Laredo
    Life is Grand

    Jeep Maintenance Department Director

  8. #8
    Registered
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Shelton, CT
    Posts
    74

    Default

    see eric the car guy on youtube. He has a 30 minute video on removing head cover for a 4.0.
    2002 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 4.0 - Stock

  9. #9

    Default

    Another question. I saw a writeup where a guy said to "glue" the gasket to the head before setting it down on the block because the head is too heavy for one person to set down perfect if the gasket is just laid on the block...I have used gasket shelak or gasket adhesive before, but is there a "SPECIAL" headgasket adhesive I need to use?

    thx

  10. #10
    LowRid3r_R/T lowrider_rt2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    seven1seven, PA
    Posts
    752

    Icon922

    Quote Originally Posted by FastSUV View Post
    Another question. I saw a writeup where a guy said to "glue" the gasket to the head before setting it down on the block because the head is too heavy for one person to set down perfect if the gasket is just laid on the block...I have used gasket shelak or gasket adhesive before, but is there a "SPECIAL" headgasket adhesive I need to use?

    thx
    id ask a buddy to help put the head back on either way! even with adhesive holding the gasket on, you dont lay it right and need to move one way or the other you can smear the adhesive places you dont want it. to answer your question, no, regular rtv or gasket maker will work. i would try to keep the adhesive away from the seal on the new metal headgasket.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2000 WJ, silver & black, 4.7 full time 4x4, 5.5" lift, 33's, tinted windows, truck bed lined all plastics, led interior lights, 4300k hid high/low & fogs, roof rack basket, cold air intake, iro rock sliders

    2000 dodge dakota r/t, intense blue w/ pearl, bagged, 20's, 4 tv's, ps2, 2-12" subs, 2500 watt amp, custom bed, nitrogen bottle w/ bottle bracket, stage 2 jet chip, cold air intake, tb spacer, 180 t-stat

    1989 ford ranger, rat rod flat black with lime green keystone klassic wheels, lime green custon flamed skull grill insert, 08 yzf 450 yoshimura exhaust, propane injected exhaust flame thrower

    "TWEEKmods"
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/394892...ort-utility-4d

  11. #11

    Default

    I was just watching this video, and he said that you should never store your torque wrench set at anything but zero...the torque wrench I have is 10yrs old and I use it mainly to torque lugnuts so i keep it set at 100 all the time....am I screwed or you think I can get away with using it for this job???

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WHBskK_F3o

  12. #12

    Default

    Well I checked my wrench against my brand new inch/lb wrench, it is accurate so I am gonna use it. BUTTTT!

    See anything wrong between cyl #3 & #4??? So for a replacement, where and what do you guys recommend??? Can I use a better casting number than the 0331?

    Last edited by FastSUV; 09-30-2012 at 03:23 AM.

  13. #13

    Default

    HELP HELP! I am following the FSM among other things for cyl head removal and it says to perform the fuel system pressure release procedure. Problem is, it tells you to do this after the push rods are out and stuff and the battery disconnected, etc...How can I turn over the ignition if the top-end is all taken apart??? Here is the procedure I am supposed to perform...can i really turn over the motor with the pushrods out but the head still on the Jeep?


  14. #14
    Registered Teacherstoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Grant, Michigan
    Posts
    649

    Default

    Open the gas cap. Deploy the Schrader valve on the fuel rail- cover it with a rag you will get some gas out of it. Remove fuel line from the rail. The "run it till it dies" is just so you don't get gas out of the schrader valve when you release the pressure.
    '00 WJ Laredo
    '00 WJ Laredo
    '01 WJ Laredo
    Life is Grand

    Jeep Maintenance Department Director

  15. #15
    Registered Teacherstoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Grant, Michigan
    Posts
    649

    Default

    Your 01 will have two "line up" pins for the head gasket and head so this won't be a problem. The 01 I'm working on right now has them so yours should. As for "gluing" it, I've held some gaskets on with 3m 77 spray glue. Holds pretty well and no ill effects. I don't think you'll need it, just grab a helper.
    The release tool for the fuel line is a plastic tool that kind of looks like a cone. If you go to AZ you can get them for a few bucks.
    '00 WJ Laredo
    '00 WJ Laredo
    '01 WJ Laredo
    Life is Grand

    Jeep Maintenance Department Director

  16. #16

    Default

    Okay I "think" I can see the crack here after cleaning off the Stop leak goop, but I was not sure if it was just a casting line or not. But after reviewing the pics in THIS thread, I am 99% sure mine is toast:



    And here you can see where the goop ether came up from of got down into the lifter valley...I guess I can just clean the lifter after I remove the head???


  17. #17

    Default

    Is this a cracked cylinder wall ???





  18. #18
    LowRid3r_R/T lowrider_rt2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    seven1seven, PA
    Posts
    752

    Default

    yeah, it looks like you have 2 small cracks there. did you turn the motor over to see how far that longer crack goes down? i see some scoring on the piston wall as well. those are the scratches that go up & down. scoring of the cylinder walls is caused by either contaminates between the cylinder wall and the piston, a lack of lubrication, or a combination of the two. contaminates come from unburned fuel deposits or contaminates in the engine oil. the scoring gouges the cylinder walls allowing combustion gasses to escape into the crankcase and further contaminate the engine oil. oil is also allowed to move up past the rings into the combustion chamber causing the engine to burn oil. im going to say you need rings as well. just my 2cents.
    2000 WJ, silver & black, 4.7 full time 4x4, 5.5" lift, 33's, tinted windows, truck bed lined all plastics, led interior lights, 4300k hid high/low & fogs, roof rack basket, cold air intake, iro rock sliders

    2000 dodge dakota r/t, intense blue w/ pearl, bagged, 20's, 4 tv's, ps2, 2-12" subs, 2500 watt amp, custom bed, nitrogen bottle w/ bottle bracket, stage 2 jet chip, cold air intake, tb spacer, 180 t-stat

    1989 ford ranger, rat rod flat black with lime green keystone klassic wheels, lime green custon flamed skull grill insert, 08 yzf 450 yoshimura exhaust, propane injected exhaust flame thrower

    "TWEEKmods"
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/394892...ort-utility-4d

  19. #19

    Default

    With it all taken apart, how can I tunr over the motor to get the piston down??? This motor got hot...that is what did it.


    Here is an enhanced image:

    Last edited by FastSUV; 10-08-2012 at 12:05 PM.

  20. #20
    LowRid3r_R/T lowrider_rt2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    seven1seven, PA
    Posts
    752

    Default

    get a 3/4" ratchet and whatever size socket you need and put it on the crank pully/harmonic balancer. turn clockwise. should be easy to turn since there is no compression. thats how you get the pistons to move and to get the motor to top dead center
    2000 WJ, silver & black, 4.7 full time 4x4, 5.5" lift, 33's, tinted windows, truck bed lined all plastics, led interior lights, 4300k hid high/low & fogs, roof rack basket, cold air intake, iro rock sliders

    2000 dodge dakota r/t, intense blue w/ pearl, bagged, 20's, 4 tv's, ps2, 2-12" subs, 2500 watt amp, custom bed, nitrogen bottle w/ bottle bracket, stage 2 jet chip, cold air intake, tb spacer, 180 t-stat

    1989 ford ranger, rat rod flat black with lime green keystone klassic wheels, lime green custon flamed skull grill insert, 08 yzf 450 yoshimura exhaust, propane injected exhaust flame thrower

    "TWEEKmods"
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/394892...ort-utility-4d

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Jeep Parts | Jeep Accessories | Trektop NX | Jeep Seat Covers | Jeep Wrangler | Jeep Wrangler Parts | Jeep Wrangler Accessories | Bestop | Jeep Tires | Jeep Stuff | Jeep Wrangler Tires | Jeep Wheels