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Thread: tranny to engine then tcase, or tranny+tcase to engine

  1. #1

    Default tranny to engine then tcase, or tranny+tcase to engine

    maybe silly q to some....

    Is it best to install tranny up to engine first, then tcase ? or install tcase to tranny first and then install as one unit ?

  2. #2
    Registered willy453's Avatar
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    It all depends on your situation. Do you have a tranny lift or are you Super strong? Personally, I put up the tranny and then the t-case. I also had the body off at the time so we could get right in there.
    75 CJ-5 with 76 glass tub
    350 sbc with Edelbrock 600cfm, SM465, D20, D44 w/ 3:73, D30 w/ 3:73, Novak Hydro Clutch Convo. Turned into a frame off resto so it's still in progress.

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  3. #3

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    I would be using a tranny jack... Just dont see how there is enough space to bolt the tcase to the trans when the trans is already bolted up to the engine....

  4. #4
    Registered willy453's Avatar
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    Like I said, we had the body off when we did it. We also had to rebuild the x-member cause we installed a SB350/SM465. Most of the shops I've been to take them down together.
    75 CJ-5 with 76 glass tub
    350 sbc with Edelbrock 600cfm, SM465, D20, D44 w/ 3:73, D30 w/ 3:73, Novak Hydro Clutch Convo. Turned into a frame off resto so it's still in progress.

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    Pocket

  5. #5

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    Yeah, no body off option. Figured going up as one unit was the way to go.

  6. #6
    Registered Don Stephens's Avatar
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    I choose to do mine one at a time, with the tranny jack. I did it that way for ease of manuverability since that T-18 is a very heavy tranny. When the t-case went in the rear of the engine/tranny was lowered so it would slide in. As I recall the t-case weighs around 80 lbs.

  7. #7
    Registered keith460's Avatar
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    I would bolt the trans to the engine since the bottom of the trans case has the transmission mount bolted to it. Then all you need to do is wrestle the TC into place and leave the crossmember bolted up to the frame. The crossmember helps with the weight of the TC while you align it to push into place. Plus, it is easier to align the TC to the trans then to deal with aligning the clutch disc with the trans input shaft and all that weight of both combined. Ask me how I know!
    258 I6 Engine w/Weber DGEV 32/36 Carb and factory Air Cleaner
    T5 Transmission
    D300 Transfer Case
    D30 Front Axle w/4.10's
    AMC20 Rear Axle w/4.10's
    Black Diamond 3" Suspension Lift w/Black Diamond Hydro Shocks
    BFG 32" All Terrain KO's on factory White Wagon Wheels
    Restoration is complete....

    Progress:http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=434226

  8. #8
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    I've a full roll cage.. so it's easy. I bolt the transfer case to the transmission. Then, attach a come along to the roll cage and let the cable down through the transmission tunnel in the frame. I run the come-along cable around the assembly and then lift the assembly easily into place without strain. Once it's near the engine, I use two 3/8" threaded rods and use them to draw the transmission to the engine block and bolt it into place.

    If you don't have a full roll cage.. then a couple of doubled up 2X4's from the windshield frame to the factory roll bar will do the same thing.

    Easy Peasy!

  9. #9

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    Thank you Gentlemen...

    1. Leve,
    2. What
    3. Happened
    4. To
    5. your
    6. numbered
    7. replies ?

    I liked those

    Paul

  10. #10
    Registered keith460's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LEVE View Post
    I've a full roll cage.. so it's easy. I bolt the transfer case to the transmission. Then, attach a come along to the roll cage and let the cable down through the transmission tunnel in the frame. I run the come-along cable around the assembly and then lift the assembly easily into place without strain. Once it's near the engine, I use two 3/8" threaded rods and use them to draw the transmission to the engine block and bolt it into place.

    If you don't have a full roll cage.. then a couple of doubled up 2X4's from the windshield frame to the factory roll bar will do the same thing.

    Easy Peasy!
    I've done it that way too, but with a engine hoist I have in my shop.





    258 I6 Engine w/Weber DGEV 32/36 Carb and factory Air Cleaner
    T5 Transmission
    D300 Transfer Case
    D30 Front Axle w/4.10's
    AMC20 Rear Axle w/4.10's
    Black Diamond 3" Suspension Lift w/Black Diamond Hydro Shocks
    BFG 32" All Terrain KO's on factory White Wagon Wheels
    Restoration is complete....

    Progress:http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=434226

  11. #11
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    Icon91

    I pull'em from under, and lift the rear wheels about 12-14".
    I'll pull the T/C and tranny out as a unit. Using a tranny jack.
    I will reinstall the tranny first because it's MUCH easier to get the tranny lined up with the pilot bearing with-out the extra weight of the T/C.
    LG

  12. #12
    Registered willy453's Avatar
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    After my post I fired up the motor (cause it was done, finially!!) and I thot no better time than now to check the clutch. Was also working on the hydro clutch assy. Come to find out my release bearing was too short! I called NOVAK and they helped me determine that and told me to re-read the section on clutches so I could learn the proper method of measuring for the release bearing. So right then and there I took everything down, one. piece. at. a. time. No tranny jack I used a block and tackle (4:1) and hoisted it that way. I measured it like they said and ordered the new one from NAPA. This is Thursday nite. Go to work on Friday and on my way home Sat morning I pick up said new bearing. Brother in law comes over and we wrestle tranny back into place after replacing new bearing. Guess what. New bearing is TOO DAMN LONG. WTF!! Anyone have a better suggestions for measuring.
    75 CJ-5 with 76 glass tub
    350 sbc with Edelbrock 600cfm, SM465, D20, D44 w/ 3:73, D30 w/ 3:73, Novak Hydro Clutch Convo. Turned into a frame off resto so it's still in progress.

    Just
    Empty
    Every
    Pocket

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