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Thread: My 1998 5.9 ZJ Build Thread

  1. #1

    Icon316 My 1998 5.9 ZJ Build Thread

    BACKGROUND

    I got the Jeep in 2001; at the time it was all stock except for a Flowmaster muffler. It was my daily driver from 2001-2008. It was retired as a primary vehicle in 2008 as it had begun to show its age (death wobble, Jeep gremlins etc.). It's only been driven about 5000 miles since then and as of the creation of this thread. I've put in a lot of time over the last years of repairs, mods, tweaks, fixes, etc. but it has pretty much been just sitting in the garage since a minor wreck last year. I finally got time to start working on it again so it can begin its next life as my project vehicle/off-road rig, and this was the perfect time to start a single build thread for all future work.

    I WILL UPDATE THESE LISTS AS NEEDED IN ADDITION TO ANY NEW PROGRESS THAT IS POSTED IN THIS THREAD. FOR EXAMPLE - IF I GET MORE LIFT, ONLY THE LATEST LIFT COMPONENTS WILL BE LISTED IN THE MODS...ALSO, ITEMS MARKED AS (NEW) HAVE BEEN DONE SINCE THE CREATION OF THIS THREAD AND MAY OR MAY NOT BE ELABORATED ON FURTHER DOWN IN THE THREAD (JUST DEPENDS ON HOW MUCH TIME I HAD AT THE TIME)

    PAST MAJOR REPAIRS

    - Re-man MOPAR transmission/torque converter
    - Viscous coupler (more)
    - Front-end work (ball joints, tie rods, CV axles, drag link, steering knuckles, wheel bearings, etc.)
    - Radiator/water pump
    - Rear-end work
    - Harmonic balancer

    CURRENT MODS

    - Kevin’s 2 inch budget boost
    - Monroe Reflex UC susp-spec mono-tube shocks
    - RE front adjustable LCA’s
    - JKS front track bar
    - Urethane front & rear sway bar bushings
    - MOOG super trail boss steering stabilizer
    - LT265/75R16 Pep Boys Definity All-Terrains
    - Large tranny cooler
    - Magnaflow 2.5" high-flow cat
    - Dynomax muffler
    - Accel coil
    - Taylor plug wires
    - ASP under-drive crank pulley
    - Yakima low-rider roof rack w/ locks
    - Clear corners
    - Amber E-code signal lights *NEW*
    - Rear hitch lights
    - Factory 5.9 ground effects deleted
    - Rockers coated w/ truck bed coating
    - Rubberized undercoated undercarriage
    - Skid plates coated w/ truck bed coating
    - Valley aftermarket receiver hitch
    - Driving lights added to receiver hitch
    - CB radio w/ removable antenna
    - Kolak E-code headlamp upgrade *NEW*
    - OEM hood vents painted flat black
    - Black Limited grille
    - ARB bullbar *NEW*
    - White-face gauges
    - And whatever else I forgot to list here...

    POSSIBLE FUTURE MODS

    - More lift
    - Bigger tires
    - Stronger axle’s front & rear
    - Better gear ratio
    - Tranny shift kit
    - ECU Programmer
    - Rear armor
    - Winch w/ wireless remote
    - Different roof rack w/ accessories
    - Rock lights/better hitch lights
    - Off-road lights
    - New exhaust
    - Brake upgrade
    - Aftermarket tranny pan w/ drain plug
    - Aftermarket diff covers
    - Headers
    - Steering upgrade
    - Rear track bar
    - Misc Kevin's Jeep Parts goodies
    - Rock sliders
    - Interior sound dampening material
    - Sway bar discos
    - Better sway bars

    A FEW PICS OF THE JEEP THROUGH THE YEARS






    My hood vents were fading so I cleaned them up a little and painted them flat black with Kryrlon Fusion spray can (several coats):



    THE FENDER-BENDER

    In early 2011 I had to drive the Jeep to work thanks to winter roads; my other Jeep is only my beater-commuter and isn't a 4x4. Unfortunately, a girl skidded on ice through a red light and I t-boned her. Lucky for me, the Westin Safari bar, the lift, tow hooks, and most of all, the slippery road saved me from any real damage other than cosmetic (but new 5.9 Limited grilles are not cheap!).

    Below you can see what it looked like after I tore it down to inspect the damage from the wreck. The only core damage was that minor bent area you see, but I was able to straighten it out as good as new. It also had bent tow hood brackets, but they are removable and since I plan to install and ARB bumper, it doesn't matter . I then threw on a coat of flat black "just because":


    Last edited by FastSUV; 07-22-2014 at 02:17 PM.

  2. #2

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    KOLAK E-CODE HEADLAMP WRITEUP

    So the first order of business is to get the wiring done for the Euro headlamp upgrade; it's the prime time to do it with the Jeep already all taken apart.The USA version of the ZJ Grand Cherokee had inferior headlamps with 9004 bulbs and crummy plastic lenses. This upgrade converts it to use superior H4 bulbs and gives you the OE-style Euro headlamps with the glass lenses and a better beam pattern; available via kolak@aol.com.

    You will see a new battery tray in the pics; that was an unrelated fix. But it makes routing the wires for this upgrade easier if you remove the battery tray. Also, it makes it easier if you remove the air filter box and intake tube, etc. on the driver-side. In order to properly run the harness over to the driver-side, I had to cut off the H4 harness and then reconnect it with butt connectors; this is not shown below.

    Get your harness that comes with the Kolak kit all laid out to begin to envision how you want to run the wires. Then find a good place to locate the new relays; I hunted around and noticed some unused screw holes under the factory relay box, so I took advantage of them. You will have to find your own screws to use:



    You should purchase in advance, several sizes of plastic wire loom so you can hide the obnoxious yellow heat shrink of the harness and protect it at the same time:



    Following the instructions that come with the kit, cut the passenger-side OE bulb harness and splice in the new harness; this is where it gets power from:



    On the pass-side inner fender wall, you can see where I grounded the pass-side H4 harness...I won't be able to test right away so I hope this works:



    Now begin to run your harness over to the driver-side; you can see below how I chose to do it:



    I grounded the driver-side H4 harness inside the headlight well as shown. I also took the time to loom and route everything neatly:



    Now you should have everything routed and loomed; as noted above, through trial & error I found the best way to route the pass-side wires under the battery tray. I had to move the lead that will go to the positive battery cable back under the battery tray. It is shown incorrectly in the pic directly below:



    Here is the main power wire plug waiting to be connected to the new lead installed on the positive battery cable that is also shown. You can also see the new relays in-place and plugged in. Notice how the positive cable lead has been re-routed now and is coming out right under the OEM relay box. Again, it's trial & error:



    Okay now is the waiting game for me, until the Jeep is fully put back together to see how the hew headlamps look and test them out. But for now, you can see below the new H4 harnesses on each side:

    Last edited by FastSUV; 09-17-2013 at 07:47 PM.

  3. #3
    Registered louc's Avatar
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    Cool history...I've had my 98 since new and added some stuff to it, Bilsteins, tow hitches front and rear, and the H-4 Headlight upgrade. Back in 2002, you could still get the Mopar H-4 European headlamps, they were expensive and well made. Now the only thing you can get that I know of, is the Crown aftermarket H-4 European style lights, which is what I installed, back in 2002, along with a Painless Wiring bypass harness with relays. The harness is excellent quality and has never given me any trouble in 10 years of use. The headlights are good quality, maybe not as good as the now not available Mopar OE. The only issue I had was I had to re-attach the lenses with silicone about a year later, other than that they were fine. Find out if the units that Kolak sells are the Crown ones (I bet they are, I don't think anyone else makes em or at least sells em here) and just check the lenses, that they are not loose.
    Lou C

    98 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
    H-4/ECE Headlights, Painless Wiring Harness, Hella 450 fogs
    Front and rear tow hitches, Air Lift, Bilsteins
    Dynomax Cat Back Exhaust
    B&M Supercooler

    07 WK Limited 5.7 HEMI Quadradrive II


    1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
    4.3 OMC/Cobra Drive

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by louc View Post
    Cool history...I've had my 98 since new and added some stuff to it, Bilsteins, tow hitches front and rear, and the H-4 Headlight upgrade. Back in 2002, you could still get the Mopar H-4 European headlamps, they were expensive and well made. Now the only thing you can get that I know of, is the Crown aftermarket H-4 European style lights, which is what I installed, back in 2002, along with a Painless Wiring bypass harness with relays. The harness is excellent quality and has never given me any trouble in 10 years of use. The headlights are good quality, maybe not as good as the now not available Mopar OE. The only issue I had was I had to re-attach the lenses with silicone about a year later, other than that they were fine. Find out if the units that Kolak sells are the Crown ones (I bet they are, I don't think anyone else makes em or at least sells em here) and just check the lenses, that they are not loose.
    Thanks for the info. I already have them, I just went and checked them out and I can guarantee they are crowns and not OEM...it's almost like they bought the OEM Euro glass lenses and adhered them to the crown housings; you can see some kind white sealant, but they are not loose right now.

    Can I ask, what kind of exact silicone did you use to reseal them? Did you remove the lenses and then clean them up and stuff, or did you just run a bead around the edge to stop them from being loose?

    Here's a pic of the new headlamp housings; you can hopefully tell they are glass lenses:



    EDIT: I did not seal the housings any further than they were; partly because they seemed fine as they came, and party because I forgot. This build will likely have long periods of down time in it.
    Last edited by FastSUV; 09-25-2012 at 05:32 PM.

  5. #5
    Registered louc's Avatar
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    I used plain clear silicone, I peeled off the original adhesive, they must have had a bad run of it. Now if I was doing it now, I'd use a true adhesive like 3M 4200 marine sealant/adhesive, that is pretty strong stuff I have used it on a number of marine projects. I'd install em and just check to see if they are starting to get loose like if you parked in the sun on a hot day. If they are fine, you might just leave em alone or run a bead of clear silicone around the outside. That was like 10 years ago, I have not had to touch em since then.
    BTW, I'd stick with the standard wattage bulbs with these, they are plastic and the reflector is just chrome plated plastic, I think high wattage bulbs might degrade the plating after a while.
    I had Hella 4x6 H-4 European lamps in my last car before the ZJ, the housing was metal and the construction was heavier than these, but like I said my experience with them over 10 years is good. No clouding up of the lense like the cheapo plastic lamps.
    Lou C

    98 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
    H-4/ECE Headlights, Painless Wiring Harness, Hella 450 fogs
    Front and rear tow hitches, Air Lift, Bilsteins
    Dynomax Cat Back Exhaust
    B&M Supercooler

    07 WK Limited 5.7 HEMI Quadradrive II


    1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
    4.3 OMC/Cobra Drive

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by louc View Post
    I used plain clear silicone, I peeled off the original adhesive, they must have had a bad run of it. Now if I was doing it now, I'd use a true adhesive like 3M 4200 marine sealant/adhesive, that is pretty strong stuff I have used it on a number of marine projects. I'd install em and just check to see if they are starting to get loose like if you parked in the sun on a hot day. If they are fine, you might just leave em alone or run a bead of clear silicone around the outside. That was like 10 years ago, I have not had to touch em since then.
    BTW, I'd stick with the standard wattage bulbs with these, they are plastic and the reflector is just chrome plated plastic, I think high wattage bulbs might degrade the plating after a while.
    I had Hella 4x6 H-4 European lamps in my last car before the ZJ, the housing was metal and the construction was heavier than these, but like I said my experience with them over 10 years is good. No clouding up of the lense like the cheapo plastic lamps.
    Kolak sent me some PIAA's, I will check the wattage...what should it be? 55w?

  7. #7
    Registered louc's Avatar
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    Yep 55/60w
    I used to use 90/100w in my Hellas but as I said they were all metal construction.
    Lou C

    98 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
    H-4/ECE Headlights, Painless Wiring Harness, Hella 450 fogs
    Front and rear tow hitches, Air Lift, Bilsteins
    Dynomax Cat Back Exhaust
    B&M Supercooler

    07 WK Limited 5.7 HEMI Quadradrive II


    1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
    4.3 OMC/Cobra Drive

  8. #8
    wine taster kjk's Avatar
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    I ran my harness exactly like you did. I even mounted the relays in the same spot. You are going to love the light output! So much better than stock.
    5.9 ZJ SCT tuned PCM/ KJK CAI/ Thorley headers with 3" Magnaflow cat and muffler/ Modded kegger/ TransGo shift kit/ Vanco brake kit/ Braided steel brake lines/ Mopar cupholder insert!

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by kjk View Post
    I ran my harness exactly like you did. I even mounted the relays in the same spot. You are going to love the light output! So much better than stock.
    I can't wait...thanks for the feedback. I will definitely post pics when complete.
    Last edited by FastSUV; 09-25-2012 at 05:33 PM.

  10. #10
    Registered louc's Avatar
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    The lighting will be way better than stock. The OE lamps on a ZJ are REALLY BAD! I had a pair of Hella 4x6 rectangles in my 89 Corolla with pop up lamps before the ZJ and I felt like I was driving with sunglasses on...
    Lou C

    98 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
    H-4/ECE Headlights, Painless Wiring Harness, Hella 450 fogs
    Front and rear tow hitches, Air Lift, Bilsteins
    Dynomax Cat Back Exhaust
    B&M Supercooler

    07 WK Limited 5.7 HEMI Quadradrive II


    1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
    4.3 OMC/Cobra Drive

  11. #11

    Default Progress sweet progress

    Just as the title says, PROGRESS!!!...been awhile but I got back to it. Kolak Euros are in and working. And they are "satisfyingly" brighter than the OEM setup but not anything more. I am glad I did it though and recommend it.

    Also, I bought new Euro-style amber turn signals (like Taz has) and also OEM-style clears signals since I was not 100% sure which I would choose to run with the ARB bull bar also installed (which comes with amber signals as well)...I was surprised to see the OEM's have 2 bulbs but the Euro ambers only has one bulb socket in the housing..so that alone made my decision (for now at least), so the Jeep is shown as such. Also, the Jeep is shown with the popular aftermarket clear corners I have had for awhile now.

    I had a substantial amount of finagling to do with the "OEM-quality", but aftermarket Keystone header panel (the plastic housing behind the grille that the headlights mount to). The original was damaged in the wreck. I had yet to properly aim my headlights so that is why the gaps are different in the 1st pic below vs the last. I also replaced the Air Temp Sensor that mounts in the header panel.

    The new painted grille is not installed. I have decided to wait to put that 500.00 piece of hardware on this beast until the ARB bumper goes on...no since risking it getting marred up since the 5.9 is my temporary new daily driver again while my WJ sits with a blown head gasket.

    I have had a nasty problem with the Jeep leaking antifreeze from the drain petcock on 3 replacement radiators thus far!!! I finally got fed up so I drained the radiator, washed the front off real good with pressure washer and let it dry. Then I used some black RTV to seal the drain hole and o-ring to the petcock real good; if I ever need to flush the coolant, I can just remove the petcock completely. It would only happen when it was cooler outside it seemed and then stop once the motor warmed up. My theory was the o-ring was expanding upon getting warm and that stopped coolant from getting past it. Anyway, it caused some surface rust on the radiator support so I wanted to fix'er up as best I could. I brushed loose any caked-on debris on the radiator support, then cleaned it with solvent and painted it black.


    After the Kolak E-code headlamp install:



    Oh yes, they are brighter than the OEM stockers:



    And another angle:



    EDIT:I was curious after-the-fact and I web searched to see if anyone had ever done a writeup on this modification before and of course they had. I sort of wish I had seen it before I did mine, but everything turned out good. But in case I skipped anything and you are doing this mod to your Jeep, HERE is a very detailed writeup.
    Last edited by FastSUV; 09-25-2012 at 06:12 PM.

  12. #12

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    Okay, I think I am gonna start a list of fixes/repairs needed for the old Jeep. Not mods, but just miscellaneous sh*t that is wrong with it:

    - soundbar headliner falling down
    - front window tint peeling
    - various spots on the body that may need touch-up
    - sunroof no workie
    - both power seats have motor issues
    - driver side heated seat no workie
    - driver side seat back wobbles
    - vibration in drive train
    - parking brake only works in reverse (common issue w/ ZJ's)
    - front aftermarket Infinity speakers cause vibration in doors
    - muffler leaks
    - flickering dash lights
    - radio/clock light works intermittently
    - driver-side door lock works intermittently *FIXED*

    Anyway, we'd be here all day if I listed everything I want to do to the Jeep. Like every "refinement" that is not really a modification nor a fix/repair...You Jeep owners know what I mean...paint this here, adjust that there, replace rusted lug nuts, etc, etc...I will do the best I can not to bloat this build thread but do I tend to get wordy.
    Last edited by FastSUV; 07-22-2014 at 02:25 PM.

  13. #13
    Registered Merc1973's Avatar
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    Nice niner! Thanks for sharing!
    2002 WJ 4.7l, NP247, limited, OME, Bilsteins, JKS TB, Kolak exhaust, Stillen Rotors, MM pads, 255/70/17 Grabber AT2
    1973 Mercury Cougar convertible XR7 351CJ (Q-code), C6, 9" rearend

  14. #14

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    POWER DOOR LOCK FIX

    Well I fixed the driver-side power door lock module that was not working right. I replaced the module with a Mopar unit from Kolak. I was gonna do a writeup but it is such a simple procedure I just snapped a couple pics instead.

    It was kind of tight to work in the door and get the actuator rods all re-attached but here is a picture of how they were when I found them:



    Yes, you do have to cut through the clear plastic barrier to access the door lock actuator. I suppose you could try to peal it, but only the 1st door seal/barrier peels easy (the non-clear one); I found it better to cut it and re-tape it. I used Gorilla tape and it worked well; better than duct tape:



    Finally, I have had the door panel off in the past several times and the top door seal/barrier (non-clear one) can lose it's ability to stick back down so I used some of this to hold it back in place:



    You have to adjust the door latch after this install...I will snap a pic of the adjuster when I get time.
    Last edited by FastSUV; 09-25-2012 at 06:07 PM.

  15. #15

    Thumbs up

    Been awhile since I have made any progress...I got the Euro-spec amber front turn signals installed. I decided not to do the additional mod to make the turn signals double as parking lamps, but i still had to replace the bulb sockets to fit the new amber housings. I also installed an unpainted plastic, OEM regular ZJ (non-5.9 Limited) style grille...I am in the process of deciding whether or not to paint the new grille flat black to match the way my hood louvers are painted, or just to use it the way it is unpainted...input is welcomed.

    I did get a brand new, factory painted, deep slate 5.9 grille, but it was just too pretty, and too expensive to install; so i decided to get a cheapy for now. There was a guy on one of the other forums that mentioned he wanted my new 5.9 grille if I ever sold it, and I'll be thinking that over. Since I envision this high-mileage old ZJ to be a weekender and not a restoration, I have a lot of things to consider verses if I were trying to make this thing like new...Like-new is costly and then you're scared to take it out of the garage. Input is welcome on that as well.

    For now, here is a pic of the way it looks right now until I get that darn winch bumper installed and/or paint the grille:

    Last edited by FastSUV; 09-17-2013 at 07:56 PM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by louc View Post
    Cool history...I've had my 98 since new and added some stuff to it, Bilsteins, tow hitches front and rear, and the H-4 Headlight upgrade. Back in 2002, you could still get the Mopar H-4 European headlamps, they were expensive and well made. Now the only thing you can get that I know of, is the Crown aftermarket H-4 European style lights, which is what I installed, back in 2002, along with a Painless Wiring bypass harness with relays. The harness is excellent quality and has never given me any trouble in 10 years of use. The headlights are good quality, maybe not as good as the now not available Mopar OE. The only issue I had was I had to re-attach the lenses with silicone about a year later, other than that they were fine. Find out if the units that Kolak sells are the Crown ones (I bet they are, I don't think anyone else makes em or at least sells em here) and just check the lenses, that they are not loose.
    Try kolak. When I had my niner, I threw in a set of his lights-- they're great, h4, with glass covering, not plastic. night and day difference.
    Daily drive: 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT; stock (for now)

    Trail ride: 1988 XJ: Motor/plumbing/electrical: 350 Chevy L98 motor, crane cam, holly performer intake, monster carb, novak shorty headers, novak aluminum radiator; MSD ignition
    Drive train: d30 front, D35, 4x Dr. diff guards, 4.11 gears, np242 transfer case, rusty under-armor; fully locked with detroit lockers; Chevy 700r4 tranny, 32x11.5" dunlops
    Misc: custom leath seats; OBA; custom-built overhead console; CARR ratchet shifter; novak Billit shifter for transfer case; many many more.

    **SOLD** 1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9l Limited, Deep Slate. Kolak exhaust, headers, and intake; vanco "big brake" upgrade; flux capacitor

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by JMG View Post
    Try kolak. When I had my niner, I threw in a set of his lights-- they're great, h4, with glass covering, not plastic. night and day difference.
    I wanted so bad to buy your 5.9 JMG, but I decided not to and then wound up with a V8 WJ LOL...

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastSUV View Post
    I wanted so bad to buy your 5.9 JMG, but I decided not to and then wound up with a V8 WJ LOL...
    I hear it's still running like a champ somewhere in Brooklyn....
    I miss it, but the 2014 srt eases the pain somewhat :-)
    Daily drive: 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT; stock (for now)

    Trail ride: 1988 XJ: Motor/plumbing/electrical: 350 Chevy L98 motor, crane cam, holly performer intake, monster carb, novak shorty headers, novak aluminum radiator; MSD ignition
    Drive train: d30 front, D35, 4x Dr. diff guards, 4.11 gears, np242 transfer case, rusty under-armor; fully locked with detroit lockers; Chevy 700r4 tranny, 32x11.5" dunlops
    Misc: custom leath seats; OBA; custom-built overhead console; CARR ratchet shifter; novak Billit shifter for transfer case; many many more.

    **SOLD** 1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9l Limited, Deep Slate. Kolak exhaust, headers, and intake; vanco "big brake" upgrade; flux capacitor

  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by JMG View Post
    I hear it's still running like a champ somewhere in Brooklyn....
    I miss it, but the 2014 srt eases the pain somewhat :-)
    Yes I may have told you, but I passed up a chance to get my Dad's '08 SRT-8 when he passed away in 2010...I would have had to buy it for half price from my sister, but ultimately, I decided at the time i had too much going on...I still have regrets to this day, but I never was a huge fan of the '05-'10 GC body style anyway (although I have read the older SRT-8 is slightly faster than the newer one?)

    Right now I am struggling with whether to keep my niner or get something a little older/more rugged...I like K5 blazers and Ram Chargers, but ultimately, after 12yrs of ownership of this ZJ, it would be hard to abandon it for a vehicle of unknown mechanical status and electrical gremins, etc...but right now, my favorite bugout rig would be an M1009 K5 blazer (shown below), with an added Banks turbo kit if I could afford it)...but I have not committed to dumping the 5.9 yet.



    EDIT: NOPE! I am keeping the old 5.9 Jeep...I'm just too committed to it after 13yrs.
    Last edited by FastSUV; 01-07-2014 at 11:26 AM.

  20. #20

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    Well I been busy but I did pickup a new (to me) WJ Freedom H.O. I have to eventually figure out if I'm keeping the ZJ too or making the WJ my new project...But for now, I finally mounted the ARB (no winch yet) so I figured I'd post some pics since it is technically some progress made on my build:



    Last edited by FastSUV; 07-17-2014 at 09:21 AM.

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