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Thread: 4.7 Oil Pan

  1. #1

    Default 4.7 Oil Pan

    My oil pan is about to crumble apart so I nned to replace it asap. I do alot of my own repairs but is not one that i have the time or desire to do myself. Does anybody have a ballpark figure of what I can expect to pay to have this done?
    2005 WK Hemi Limited

    Previous Jeeps

    1999 XJ Sport.

    1997 ZJ Laredo

    2001 WJ Laredo

  2. #2
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    Oil pan replacement takes barely longer than changing your oil.

    Just go buy a new pan and swap it out.

    As stupid easy as this is to do, you can bet yourself a mechanic will take you to town on the 'minimum' labor charge for such a simple task.
    2004 WJ Charcoal Limited 4.7L H.O., QuadraDrive, Goodyear Wrangler w/Silent Armor Tires
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by MrBaz View Post
    Oil pan replacement takes barely longer than changing your oil.

    Just go buy a new pan and swap it out.

    As stupid easy as this is to do, you can bet yourself a mechanic will take you to town on the 'minimum' labor charge for such a simple task.
    I think there is more to it than "stupid easy" . I think you have to drop the exhaust, jack up the engine, etc.

    Hopefully someone will chime in with a step by step.
    2004 Grand Cherokee Overland
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  4. #4

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    I have seen the writeups and after seeing them I decided I dont have the time or desire to do it myself which is why I am trying to find out a ballpark on what it would cost to have it done.
    2005 WK Hemi Limited

    Previous Jeeps

    1999 XJ Sport.

    1997 ZJ Laredo

    2001 WJ Laredo

  5. #5
    Registered USFORCES's Avatar
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    First you buy the $110 pan and $50 gasket then call the smaller shops, I found a couple that charged $150-$180, even though I ended up doing it myself it's a pain in the azz but isn't to bad.

  6. #6
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    Personally, I would offer MrBaz the stupid easy rate of 10-20 bucks, plus parts, and hope he takes it.
    '01 4.7 Limited Up Country, Front & Rear Addco Sway Bars, Pro Comp MX-6 Shocks, K&N FIPK With 9" AEM Dry Flow Filter, Akebono Front Calipers, Stillen Rotors & Pads, Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines, Kolak 3" Stainless Steel Exhaust With Magnaflow 12589 Muffler

  7. #7
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    By a very small, very Jeep friendly local shop (who's owner is a certified DC mech, who quit the dealership to open his own Jeep-centric shop) I was quoted about $200-250 in labor to do it on my WJ, with the pre-cats.

    He said the only way to do it on the 4.7 with the pre-cats is to drop a whole buncha crap out of the way, including the exhaust. 4hr job, and I have no reason to think hes scamming me as he charged me very reasonably to rebuild by rear end on short notice.

    I believe on SOME 4.7's its possible, but not easy, to droop the front enough to get it out that way (remove trackbar, etc).

    I cleaned mine well, and globbered it with an entire big tube of Ultra RTV black. Used my fingers to make a nice 1/8" thick layer. Has held up so well I havent had to get the pan replaced yet, even though the pan and gasket sit in my garage. (BTW, mine had started leaking, so it was toast).

    Just possibly sharing some options to buy you some time to shop around.

    J
    1996 ZJ Limited 5.2l, 31" Pirelli Scorpion AT, UC springs with Anthony's BB, Trac-lok, K&N FIPK, and heated seats that work now! (SOLD)

    2002 WJ Limited 4.7l, tow package, moonroof, 06 Rubicon Rims, bone stock but 21mpg!

  8. #8

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    So it sounds like a $400-$500 dollar repair. Its still a nice vehicle and with almost 170K and no major issues its probably worth it so I can keep it on the road for a few more years. If I do decide to tackle the job I'll be sure to write up the experience.
    2005 WK Hemi Limited

    Previous Jeeps

    1999 XJ Sport.

    1997 ZJ Laredo

    2001 WJ Laredo

  9. #9
    Registered USFORCES's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffBrinkerhoff View Post
    By a very small, very Jeep friendly local shop (who's owner is a certified DC mech, who quit the dealership to open his own Jeep-centric shop) I was quoted about $200-250 in labor to do it on my WJ, with the pre-cats.

    He said the only way to do it on the 4.7 with the pre-cats is to drop a whole buncha crap out of the way, including the exhaust. 4hr job, and I have no reason to think hes scamming me as he charged me very reasonably to rebuild by rear end on short notice.

    I believe on SOME 4.7's its possible, but not easy, to droop the front enough to get it out that way (remove trackbar, etc).

    I cleaned mine well, and globbered it with an entire big tube of Ultra RTV black. Used my fingers to make a nice 1/8" thick layer. Has held up so well I havent had to get the pan replaced yet, even though the pan and gasket sit in my garage. (BTW, mine had started leaking, so it was toast).

    Just possibly sharing some options to buy you some time to shop around.

    J
    WHAT?

    "Drop a whole buncha crap out of the way, Remove trackbar?"

    Only thing I ever had to do was disconnect the exhaust from the manifold it's 4 bolts, bolts are a bitch but it can be done, then remove the aluminum bracket that connects the trans to the engine.
    I've replaced a few oil pans on WJ's both stock and lifted that's all I ever had to do, the pan is a little tight but it comes out. I never had to drop a bunch of crap or remove the trackbar, maybe if the suspension is shot you might, I don't know...

    Going price around here is $150-$180, where do you live Alaska?, LOL
    Last edited by USFORCES; 04-23-2012 at 11:19 PM.

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    Hey USFORCES, I'd really be interested in more of what you have to say about this job. Ive shopped it around several places, from chain repair shops, to dealers, to this jeep guy. No one has quoted less than $200 labor.

    Looking at it myself, while on the lift, the exhaust definitely has to come down. Problem is, the Y pipe will hit the frame crossmember so you will only get a little bit of clearance. My main cat converter does not have appear to have a gasket/flange joint. Rear is welded front has a slip joint with clamp that will not likely come apart.

    Are you saying that unbolting the Y pipe from the mainfolds, I would have enough clearance to remove the pan? If so, are you talking "out and over the front axle" or actually down and away? I have access to a lift, but its one where the jeep stays on the wheels, so no way to droop the axle. Hence why I was willing to pay for the job...
    1996 ZJ Limited 5.2l, 31" Pirelli Scorpion AT, UC springs with Anthony's BB, Trac-lok, K&N FIPK, and heated seats that work now! (SOLD)

    2002 WJ Limited 4.7l, tow package, moonroof, 06 Rubicon Rims, bone stock but 21mpg!

  11. #11

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    I've read and seen some WJ's that you don't have to remove the exhaust. Those where the one's without the precats. The one's with the precats you have to drop the Y-pipe disconnect the shocks and let the front axle hang low. On a lift it's easy in a driveway it's alot tougher.


    James

  12. #12
    Registered USFORCES's Avatar
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    Well if you lived by me I know a shop that does it for $150, even at $150 I still do it myself it takes me 3hrs I could probably do it in 2hrs if I didn't take any breaks. lol

    ive done wj's with precats too, only thing I had to do was the 4 bolts and the aluminum bracket and it would slip out tight fit but they came out. Some times one of the exhaust bolts break on the drivers side so you drill it out and replaced the bolt/nut.
    Maybe I get lucky and have never ran into one where you take more off because that's all I ever had to do.
    Last edited by USFORCES; 04-26-2012 at 01:59 AM.

  13. #13
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    Hey Usforces,

    Slip out how - i.e. what direction? Up out the front over the front axle? On frame lift? Im trying to figure if I want to tackle this myself on my father in laws lift - but its a drive-on lift so no axle droop at all.

    Jeff
    1996 ZJ Limited 5.2l, 31" Pirelli Scorpion AT, UC springs with Anthony's BB, Trac-lok, K&N FIPK, and heated seats that work now! (SOLD)

    2002 WJ Limited 4.7l, tow package, moonroof, 06 Rubicon Rims, bone stock but 21mpg!

  14. #14
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    First you need to lift it by the frame otherwise you will never get it off as for how it slips out there is only one way I think it slides out the back but you'll figure it out once you get it loose, it's just common sense.

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    I've never seen a oil pan rust out the way mine did on my 1999, wonder what the reason is. I was going to tackle replacing mine myself but decided to take it to a very honest mechanic I've known for years. Glad i did. He said something on the line of what's been posted so far as to removing/loosening/lowering this or that to get the job done. He also said that there is some type of tray that sits inside of the oil pan that also posed a problem. Think i paid around $150 in labor and have smiled ever since that i never had to lay a finger on it. Lol
    1999 WJ Limited, 4.7, QII. Taupe Frost Metallic, BB, 265/70/16 BFG Rugged Trail T/A OWL


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