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Thread: Radiator Leak / Replacement 4.0

  1. #1
    Registered WJNOVA's Avatar
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    Icon922 Radiator Leak / Replacement 4.0

    A couple of weeks ago made a trip to Vermont where the temps were around -5 and lower wind chills for two nights. On my way back I saw some steam coming out from the front of the hood and grill and noticed a small leak from the radiator. When I got back I started pouring in some stop leak and then thought better of it and decided I should just try to replace the radiator this weekend.

    Iím getting the radiator and other parts (hoses, thermostat, and gasket) from NAPA since from what Iíve read so far there isnít an overwhelming recommendation on a single top radiator brand for the WJ. Is this true?

    Itís my first time trying to replace a radiator but I think I have a good idea of how itís done, thanks to the forums and other websites. Is there anything else I need to disconnect besides the hoses and the electrical connection to the fan? Is there anything else I should look out for (other fluids leaking out)?

    Another question I have is how do I let the air out after filling up the new radiator. Is there a bleeder in there somewhere?

    Itís a 2004 WJ 4.0L.

    Thanks,
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Rocky Mountain Edition)
    4.0L I6 | Selec-Trac | K&N FIPK2 | Airaid TBS
    Rear Addco Sway Bar | OME Springs | Bilstein 5100 Shocks
    Black Horse Safari Bar |Thule Roof Rack
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

  2. #2
    the logical one fixer5000's Avatar
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    this should help you out. dont be intimidated its not that hard to do if you have a day and the right weather to do it...good luck
    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...w-pics-530365/
    99 grand cherokee...mine...gone... now its a 2011 toyota tacoma sport... double cab longbed 4.0 and the are cap to match... im loving it !

    98 grand cherokee...wifes
    nothing special just jeeps.....

    "GET THERE FAST BUT ARRIVE ALIVE "

    automation is the future of manufacturing in the USA... if youre a box packer youre screwed. get educated now


    my jeeps gone. two engines were just too much to handle. now i got me a toyota lets see how long that lasts

  3. #3
    Registered WJNOVA's Avatar
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    Thanks for the link. The only thing I'm still unsure of is when removing the transmission lines from the radiator should I expect coolant to come out from there or transmission oil? Will it bleed out while I'm making the swap? Sorry if it's dumb question I just have never done it before.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Rocky Mountain Edition)
    4.0L I6 | Selec-Trac | K&N FIPK2 | Airaid TBS
    Rear Addco Sway Bar | OME Springs | Bilstein 5100 Shocks
    Black Horse Safari Bar |Thule Roof Rack
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

  4. #4
    Registered louc's Avatar
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    When you disconnect the trans cooler lines some trans fluid will come out but not a lot, I did plug the line from the trans when I did mine just in case. It's a very messy job, when you drain the rad only about 1/2 of the coolant in the system will drain, then when you pull off the lower hose, much of what's in the engine will drain. While you are in there, consider replacing the water pump, the upper and lower hoses, maybe the thermostat. All those items are a lot easier to get at when the rad is out. Also if your heat has not been working well, consider back flushing the heater core when you have the heater hoses disconnected.
    I used a Mopar replacement rad and water pump, I replaced the upper and lower hoses but the thermostat I left alone because the engine temp has always held steady at 210*
    One other important part of this job is to make sure you bleed out all the air, air pockets will cause the heater to not work well and the engine can run hot. I have a special funnel made by Lisle for this purpose, it lets you run the engine with the rad cap off, to let all the air out without spilling AF all over the place. It takes a good half hr running to get all the air bubbles out.
    Finally use a G05 Xerex type coolant, that's what was specified for all Chryslers after 98.
    here's my rad replacement.....
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Lou C

    98 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
    H-4/ECE Headlights, Painless Wiring Harness, Hella 450 fogs
    Front and rear tow hitches, Air Lift, Bilsteins
    Dynomax Cat Back Exhaust
    B&M Supercooler

    07 WK Limited 5.7 HEMI Quadradrive II


    1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
    4.3 OMC/Cobra Drive

  5. #5
    Registered WJNOVA's Avatar
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    Thanks for the guidance Louc.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Rocky Mountain Edition)
    4.0L I6 | Selec-Trac | K&N FIPK2 | Airaid TBS
    Rear Addco Sway Bar | OME Springs | Bilstein 5100 Shocks
    Black Horse Safari Bar |Thule Roof Rack
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by louc View Post
    ....and water pump, ..
    louc,
    what did you use on the end of the pipe that goes into the water pump?


    Thanks

  7. #7
    Registered Teacherstoy's Avatar
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    You should use some teflon tape on that pipe, just like you would assembling pipe in your house/garage.
    '00 WJ Laredo
    '00 WJ Laredo
    '01 WJ Laredo
    Life is Grand

    Jeep Maintenance Department Director

  8. #8
    Registered bryanseye's Avatar
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    I did mine recently and made it a 2 day job. Most of the tear down can be done the night before, but leave the radiator in place and disconnect the lower hose at the radiator so that it can drain all night. By the time I removed the rad, there was very little coolant that spilled.

    For the transmission lines, disconnect where the hose is clamped onto the metal line. I wrapped some electrical tape on a couple of bolts to act as plugs for the hoses to prevent spillage in the engine bay. It is much easier to reach and then you can swap the fittings onto the new radiator when you have the old outside the vehicle. It is kind of obvious which hose goes back on which line, but I flagged one of the lines (1 piece of tape on the hose, 1 on the line) to make it easier to pair up during reassembly.

    Just be careful with the AC evaporator. It is bolted to the radiator and does not have to be disconnected, but some manuals call for it to be. Just don't be to rough with it and you should be fine.
    '04 WJ Laredo
    '03 WJ Overland - Gone

    Semper Fi

  9. #9
    Registered louc's Avatar
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    The OE water pump pipe came with some red thread sealant on it, but you could use teflon tape or gasket sealer.

    Like I said earlier, this is not a real hard job, but time consuming, the working room in a Grand Cherokee engine compartment is not that much, I could have done it much faster on my old school full size GMs, with a huge engine compartment and 3 feet length in front of the fan....

    The other thing, like I said, it take your time bleeding out the air, otherwise the engine might overheat and your heat will not work.
    Lou C

    98 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
    H-4/ECE Headlights, Painless Wiring Harness, Hella 450 fogs
    Front and rear tow hitches, Air Lift, Bilsteins
    Dynomax Cat Back Exhaust
    B&M Supercooler

    07 WK Limited 5.7 HEMI Quadradrive II


    1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
    4.3 OMC/Cobra Drive

  10. #10

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    Just replaced mine yesterday. It was a simple 2 hour job, plus an hour for refilling, testing, bleeding, and cleanup.

    After a longer test drive it started leaking transmission fluid all over the place out of the lines. I didn't put any tape on the threads so I'm going to remove both and reinstall them. Hopefully that will stop my leak.
    2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 200k mi
    2WD, 4.0L I-6, 42RE, Dana 35

  11. #11
    Registered louc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2000WJLover View Post
    Just replaced mine yesterday. It was a simple 2 hour job, plus an hour for refilling, testing, bleeding, and cleanup.

    After a longer test drive it started leaking transmission fluid all over the place out of the lines. I didn't put any tape on the threads so I'm going to remove both and reinstall them. Hopefully that will stop my leak.

    On the Zj the top trans line, it is a metal line with a threaded collar that gets threaded on a fitting in the trans for the cooler , the bottom one was a hose clamped on to a fitting on the cooler in the rad. If you try to tighten the top one with the rad bolted in solid, sometimes they might not seal all the way. I tightened the top one before bolting in the rad, but I still had to tighten it a bit, just a tiny leak on the test drive. Bottom one was fine. Did you use an OE rad or aftermarket?

    I did not use any teflon tape on the top line, nor was there any on it from the original installation.
    Lou C

    98 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
    H-4/ECE Headlights, Painless Wiring Harness, Hella 450 fogs
    Front and rear tow hitches, Air Lift, Bilsteins
    Dynomax Cat Back Exhaust
    B&M Supercooler

    07 WK Limited 5.7 HEMI Quadradrive II


    1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
    4.3 OMC/Cobra Drive

  12. #12

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    It's not an original part, but looked identical. I found it was the lower trans line where the flange fits with the radiator. I've tried reseating it several times but it keeps leaking. I think I just need a new line. I can't find it at any auto part store and I'm worried it's a dealer deal.
    2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 200k mi
    2WD, 4.0L I-6, 42RE, Dana 35

  13. #13
    Stock Is NOT An Option mdoffroad's Avatar
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    the Oil cooler return line for your year is part# 52079 753AB and lists for $23 goes for around $17. The pressure side of the cooler hose is# 52079 432AB and lists for $10 and goes for around $8. Just replace the both!
    Mńττ
    Hangin' on JU for more than 13 years now!!



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  14. #14

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    Okay...

    I just heard from the dealer. They say they do not make the oil cooler line anymore for this model. They do not make the radiator anymore. They only have a newer style of both that fit. The old line isn't compatible with the aftermarket radiator I got from advance auto. This does make sense since nothing seems wrong with either fitting but it leaks. He said here were some adapter kits at the auto part store I can buy. Other than that I will be on my own to make my own hose and fitting.
    2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 200k mi
    2WD, 4.0L I-6, 42RE, Dana 35

  15. #15
    the logical one fixer5000's Avatar
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    so much for the two hour swap. try a junkyard for the line
    99 grand cherokee...mine...gone... now its a 2011 toyota tacoma sport... double cab longbed 4.0 and the are cap to match... im loving it !

    98 grand cherokee...wifes
    nothing special just jeeps.....

    "GET THERE FAST BUT ARRIVE ALIVE "

    automation is the future of manufacturing in the USA... if youre a box packer youre screwed. get educated now


    my jeeps gone. two engines were just too much to handle. now i got me a toyota lets see how long that lasts

  16. #16

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    I live in Bridgewater, NJ. PM me if you run into trouble. I have done this job a few times and have many tools.

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by fixer5000 View Post
    so much for the two hour swap. try a junkyard for the line
    Hey, the radiator works!

    I messed with it for another hour today and even tried one of the old fittings from the original radiator. It still leaked, so I don't know about the incompatibility claim. They new fittings and old fittings look exactly the same to me. I wrapped the flange and threads in teflon and that seems to have stopped it for now.
    2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 200k mi
    2WD, 4.0L I-6, 42RE, Dana 35

  18. #18
    Registered WJNOVA's Avatar
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    Just to follow up, I was able to swap out the old radiator with the new one by only removing the upper and lower hoses, overflow tank hose, and the fan electrical plug (and of course a number of screws and bolts). I just helps to be patient wiggling out the fan shroud and radiator, have an extra person, and wear eye protection as I got a little taste of coolant that dripped from other parts the radiator had leaked on. I did have to loosen up the upper cross-member thing that hood locks into so that I had room to pull the fan / radiator out.

    On the first start up it after it warmed up I started hearing a whistling sound and I saw that it was over heating. So I stopped the engine, removed the radiator cap and it burp like a drunken sailor. I topped it off with more coolant and temps were normal again. I actually noticed that it takes longer for the fan to kick on now, I guess it is running a bit cooler than before, that might change come summer time.

    After a couple of days I've just been checking the coolant levels and tighten the clamps on the new hoses as they break in. So far so good, thanks again to the forum community for the help.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Rocky Mountain Edition)
    4.0L I6 | Selec-Trac | K&N FIPK2 | Airaid TBS
    Rear Addco Sway Bar | OME Springs | Bilstein 5100 Shocks
    Black Horse Safari Bar |Thule Roof Rack
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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