Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 34

Thread: No Gauges, NO spark, No fuel, Won't Start

  1. #1

    Default No Gauges, NO spark, No fuel, Won't Start

    My 1997 Jeep Wrangler TJ Sport 4.0 Ran fine when I put it in storage last fall, the battery died over the winter, and now it won't start.....I can't hear the fuel pump engage when I turn the key on, The gauges don't turn on (Fuel gauge, batt. gauge don't move) when I turn the key on.
    I replaced the following...Spark plugs, plug wires, ignition coil, distributor cap, rotor, distributor, camshaft position sensor (which is attached and inside the distributor) crankshaft position sensor, and fully charged the battery. No check engine light. No spark when plug is pulled out and tested on the block. Plugs appear to be dry. All relays and fuses have been tested and are good.
    If you have any Ideas I would love to hear them....I've run out of my own! HELP PLEASE!!!!

  2. #2

    Default

    Test the battery under load, or use a known good one. modern electrical systems need a good battery. Batt. connections good?, Does it turn over??

  3. #3
    Registered MikeA85's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Mass
    Posts
    418

    Default

    I think the battery is probably junk. I would investigate that.
    2004 TJ X: Auto, Ford 8.8 ARB, Spartan Locker, TeraLow, Tera2Low, Currie HD steering linkage, Currie Anit-Rock, UCF Extra Clearance skid, UCF Engine skid, AA SYE, Woody Front and Rear custom DS, 33x12.50 KM2's on 15x8 Black Rocks. JKS 1.25" Body Lift. JKS MML Lift. JKS adj. lower and uppers in the rear. IPF Headlights and fogs. Rusty's 3" Springs. VIAIR OBA. Xenon 4" flares, Superwinch EPi 9.0. Smittybilt XRC bumper/carrier.

    PATRIOT

  4. #4

    Default

    I forgot to add that I cleaned the battery terminals and made sure that I had a good connection. It does turn over well also.

    So even though I have good power to turn the engine over, you still suggest that the battery could cause these issues?

  5. #5
    Registered MikeA85's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Mass
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Battery cables in good shape? Follow the cables from the battery terminals to their positions, make sure they are clean and tight and not damaged.
    2004 TJ X: Auto, Ford 8.8 ARB, Spartan Locker, TeraLow, Tera2Low, Currie HD steering linkage, Currie Anit-Rock, UCF Extra Clearance skid, UCF Engine skid, AA SYE, Woody Front and Rear custom DS, 33x12.50 KM2's on 15x8 Black Rocks. JKS 1.25" Body Lift. JKS MML Lift. JKS adj. lower and uppers in the rear. IPF Headlights and fogs. Rusty's 3" Springs. VIAIR OBA. Xenon 4" flares, Superwinch EPi 9.0. Smittybilt XRC bumper/carrier.

    PATRIOT

  6. #6
    Registered MikeA85's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Mass
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Battery could also have only enough power to turn it over but not enough to completely start. I still hold strong on a battery issue here.
    2004 TJ X: Auto, Ford 8.8 ARB, Spartan Locker, TeraLow, Tera2Low, Currie HD steering linkage, Currie Anit-Rock, UCF Extra Clearance skid, UCF Engine skid, AA SYE, Woody Front and Rear custom DS, 33x12.50 KM2's on 15x8 Black Rocks. JKS 1.25" Body Lift. JKS MML Lift. JKS adj. lower and uppers in the rear. IPF Headlights and fogs. Rusty's 3" Springs. VIAIR OBA. Xenon 4" flares, Superwinch EPi 9.0. Smittybilt XRC bumper/carrier.

    PATRIOT

  7. #7
    Registered
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    Oklahoma Edmond U.S.A.
    Posts
    40

    Default

    have you tried your factory diagnostic teat using the built in test feature that all 97s have. If you have a FSM id start looking at all the PDCs ,in 97 alot of the power was routed through the steering coloum and over time with moisture and dust they will corrode causing a short. Id also pull the dash gauge cluster and clean the contacts. and IIRC the clockspring can cause some issues like this. I digout my FSM and look at some things for ya.

  8. #8
    Registered
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Northern CA.
    Posts
    117

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by logopuck View Post
    I forgot to add that I cleaned the battery terminals and made sure that I had a good connection. It does turn over well also.

    So even though I have good power to turn the engine over, you still suggest that the battery could cause these issues?


    if you got no spark at the plug , she aint gonna fire.
    track back backwards checking the low voltage ckt used to create the
    high voltage.
    2002 TJ Sport
    4L, Auto 40k
    color -silverstone
    mods: 4in Superlift, hood lock,tuffy floor mats, 33x12.5 bfgs,Weld racing rims,Rubicon express SYE,Rubicon express cv shaft. OME shocks,UnidenCB,rear seat delete,Full traction rear swaybar,Currie rear swaybar endlinks.

  9. #9

    Default

    Ok, I will start working backwards from the plugs and check on the battery cables tomorrow, I'll try that and let ya know.... Thanks to everyone for the help!

  10. #10

    Default

    Ok, I've been researching this, The camshaft position sensor....Does my jeep have one? One site I found showed it inside the distributor, but then another site showed that as the pick up coil....I don't know much about this, so I don't know where the camshaft position sensor would be... So since I replaced the distributor, I may or may not have replaced the sensor....

  11. #11
    Registered MikeA85's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Mass
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by logopuck View Post
    I replaced the following...Spark plugs, plug wires, ignition coil, distributor cap, rotor, distributor, camshaft position sensor
    you listed that you replaced it.
    2004 TJ X: Auto, Ford 8.8 ARB, Spartan Locker, TeraLow, Tera2Low, Currie HD steering linkage, Currie Anit-Rock, UCF Extra Clearance skid, UCF Engine skid, AA SYE, Woody Front and Rear custom DS, 33x12.50 KM2's on 15x8 Black Rocks. JKS 1.25" Body Lift. JKS MML Lift. JKS adj. lower and uppers in the rear. IPF Headlights and fogs. Rusty's 3" Springs. VIAIR OBA. Xenon 4" flares, Superwinch EPi 9.0. Smittybilt XRC bumper/carrier.

    PATRIOT

  12. #12
    Registered
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    Oklahoma Edmond U.S.A.
    Posts
    40

    Default

    Again do the system self test by turning your ignition on and off 3 times stopping in the on position but do not start it, this will put any 97 wrangler into the diagnostic self test. the self test will tell you if you have any computer related problem such as cam position sensor. The self test works just like any OBDII scanner your repair shops will use. Let me see if i understand what problem your having is.

    cranks but wont start cant hear fuel pump prime and no gauges dont work


    Aslo is your jeep a standerd or automatic?
    Last edited by warhound; 04-11-2011 at 01:24 AM.

  13. #13

    Default

    Yes, I listed that I replaced it if it is located in the distributor (because I replaced the distributor) however I wasn't sure if it was in there or not.....

    & My jeep is an automatic, Yes I can not hear the fuel pump and my gauges don't work when I turn the key on....It turns over but won't fire..I don't have any fuel or spark...I will try the system self test and get back to ya! Thank you!

  14. #14

    Default

    I had a like problem on a tractor one time. After pulling the dash apart I found that mice had built a nice big nest using my wires and the insulation off of the wires. Meaning some bare wires were laying on top of one another and grounding things that shouldn't be grounded.
    Good Luck

  15. #15
    Registered aw12345's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Ontario So Cali
    Posts
    492

    Default

    The instrument cluster not having power is a pretty good clue it has an electric problem that could be related to powering up the ecm, does the check engine light come on with the key on? If the ecm does not see the engine turning, then it will not engage the ASD relay which powers the ignition and a slew of other stuff, nor will it turn on the fuel pump relay. That is pretty much the direction I would start looking.

  16. #16

    Default

    Ok, I tried the test and came up with nothing, it didn't show anything....I replaced the battery and checked the batt. wires, they look ok, and all connections look to be good. And no check engine light.

    I checked the power at the plug that plugs into the coil and got a DCV reading of 2.7 with the key off, with the key "on" it changed to 4.0. I plugged it back in and checked the nipple that attaches to the plug wire which goes to the distributor....The nipple on the coil gave a reading of .7 with the key off and 1.3 with the key on.... Is the Coil supposed to have power with the key off?

    Still no spark!
    Last edited by logopuck; 04-11-2011 at 06:39 PM.

  17. #17
    Registered
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    Oklahoma Edmond U.S.A.
    Posts
    40

    Default

    ok sounds like you have a stort between the ignition and fusebox. The RD/LG wire going fron the ignition to the fuse box supplys 12v to the Automatic shutdown relay the fuel pump relay and Power control module, these will keep it from starting and running. i would trace the red/light green wire from the steering coloum to the fuse box and look for a short.

    I had an issue with my jeep electronics so wasted money for relays and such and replaced all the fuses and it fixxed nothing,so i pulled the main dash cluster and cleaned all the connections and pulled the steering clolum connectors and cleaned them as well and bingo its all fixed.

    I let my jeep sit for long peroids of time without the top and all the dust and rain that gets in it caused many hard to track shorts.

    The way the jeeps wired it all comes from the PDC to the dash throught the ignition and then to the fuse box and out to all the relays and such. its an easy fix but hardto track.

    lol i might sound crazy and a bit so if it would help send me a PM and ill give you my number and read from my FSM for you .

  18. #18

    Default

    Ok, correct me if I am wrong.....I took the dash apart and saw the mess of wires under there, I'M NOT very knowledgeable in this area at all, so I started at the other end near the relays. I checked the power at the Fuel pump and ASD relay terminals and got 12.2 volts with the key off. I Also checked the continuity between the + batt. terminal and the + ASD and Fuel pump relay terminal and it was good.... Does this mean that there is no short? Again, should the relays and the coil be getting power with the batt. off?

  19. #19
    Registered aw12345's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Ontario So Cali
    Posts
    492

    Default

    The ecm turns those relays on when it gets a rpm signal from the crank sensor. Your problem seems to be that those relays are not being switched on. Or so it seems to me. The gauges are driven by data from the ecm, so it seems the ecm does not get power.

  20. #20
    Registered
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    Oklahoma Edmond U.S.A.
    Posts
    40

    Default

    ok silly question but does your underhood light work? and is your motor ground good?

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Jeep Parts | Jeep Accessories | Trektop NX | Jeep Seat Covers | Jeep Wrangler | Jeep Wrangler Parts | Jeep Wrangler Accessories | Bestop | Jeep Tires | Jeep Stuff | Jeep Wrangler Tires | Jeep Wheels