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Thread: How to test lights on Information Center Bar

  1. #1

    Default How to test lights on Information Center Bar

    I recently noitced that the lights for the 4 Information Center buttons were out (C/T, Step, Reset, Menu).

    After doing some research on this forum, i found out that they were in fact not LED lights, but incadescent bulbs that can't just be pulled out and replaced.

    There IS a way to unsolder/resolder in new bulbs (if you can find a similar replacement) or you can remove/install LED bulbs in their place.

    This thread is made only to test the functionality of the lights, not an actual replacement, as my lights all worked after some tinkering! The rest will be up to you.

    1. Begin by removing your shifter surround, shifter panel and NAV/Radio surround. The steps/illustrations to do so can be found here: Courtesy of WKJeeps.com

    2. Once removed, you will be able to pull forward the entire dash trim panel which houses the Information Bar, Climate Controls and other buttons.
    You don't need to pull it very far forward, just enough to get to the 4 screws at the back of the information bar.

    3. Remove the 4 bolts at the back with a (5mm or 5.5mm, can't remember) socket/wrench. I was able to do it by hand with a small socket, they aren't attached very tightly.

    4. Once removed, disconnect the harness connector attached to the Informatoin center bar.

    5. Once out, you should have a bar that looks like this: (forget the red arrows for now)



    Short version.
    6. Connect a 12v source to either arrow, and a Negative source to the other arrow. if the lights turn on, your lights are fine, and it's something else.
    If the lights don't turn on, continue with long version.

    Long version.
    6. Begin removing the back plastic plate by using a small flathead screwdriver, and prying between the housing/plastic plate where you can see the tabs around the edge.

    7. Eventually, you will be able to pull up one side of the plastic plate, and then remove the entire backing.

    8. Once out, pull out the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) and you should end up with the following.



    This illustrates the 4 Lights that light up the 4 buttons.

    9. At this point, I recommend using a 12v source and connecting it from the endpoint of each bulb. If you connect it to the end point of one bulb, as indicated by the arrows, and all bulbs light up, your bulbs are all good.

    10. If the lights DON'T all light up, it means one of your bulbs is either burned out or has a poor solder connection.
    Test each bulb accordingly.

    11. If they all light up, try testing it from the JP11 and JP12 pins on the back of the circuit board. Power can run to either of the pins, it won't make a difference. If you apply 12v and ground to either of the pins, and the bulbs light up, again, your circuit is good.



    12. If your circuit is NOT good, again, reference step 9 and test bulb to bulb. If you test end point to end point on each bulb as indicated by the arrows, and they each light up, it means that your solder joints are bad or your PCB is damaged somewhere (unlikely).

    13. You can reflow the solder joints by simply using a soldering iron (I prefer a pencil tip) and just heating up until the point that the solder turns liquidy (shiny) and then let it cool. This should allow it to reconnect it's contact points.

    14. If the PCB/Lights all check out, but you still have intermittent or no functionality, begin by checking the harness connector.

    15. Again, if you reference the points that are labeled with red arrows in the pictures above, (JP11 and JP12, you can see they are at the bottom of the connector. Find the correspnding pins on the connector and test them with either a test light or a mutlimeter.

    16. To test, simply connect one end of the test light or multimeter to ground and touch the other end to JP11 or JP12 ( I think it's JP11, sorry!). With the interior lights turned to ON, you should see the test light on or multimeter at 12v +/-. This would indicate that you DO have power running to the lights, and there is nothing wrong with the power feed.

    17. If there is no power, going on/off when you turn on/off the interior lights, then you'll need to start tracing the wiring.

    18. If you do have power, connect the harness to the information bar (once reassembled) and check to see if the lights are on. For me, it was an issue with the harness connection that didn't would give me intermittent (mostly none) functionality.

    19. Try pulling the harness to one side or the other and see if they lights come on/off. If this causes the lights to turn on/off, then you have a poor harness connection (my issue).

    20. If the issue is a loose harness connection, you can bend the pins carefully closer to the inside wall of the casing. This will allow them to make a tighter connection with the harness connector and give better continuity.

    **Be careful when bending the pins. Only a SLIGHT bit of pressure is needed to complete the connection**


    I hope this has been helpful to at some folks. I know it was a small pain in the butt for me to not know why the lights weren't working, but all in all, it only took me 10 minutes to test and identify the problem.

    Total cost: $0

    Cheers.

  2. #2
    Administrator LoTGoD's Avatar
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    Awesome write-up! Thanks!
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