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Thread: How to replace oil pressure sender???

  1. #1

    Default How to replace oil pressure sender???

    My 05 4.7L has the check oil light coming on first thing in the morning and staying on until I turn the vehicle off. Doesn't come on after that, oil level is fine. It seems through some research that the oil pressure sender needs to be replaced but I can't find any info to do it. Can someone explain where it is located and how to change it I would greatly appreciate it.

  2. #2

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    Its directly above the engine oil filter on the front of the engine. I took the oil filter off for easy access , unplugged the electrical connector and with a deep-well socket screwed it out. I forget the socket size but when you get the new one you can easily check. Cheers

  3. #3

    Default Oil Pressure sender

    01 Grand Cherokee Ltd 4.7
    I've got a bad oil pressure sender myself. Went under the hood n inspected it sender just above oil filter. Few question before I start the work.

    1- Seems like it would be impossible to take it out with out removing the oil filter.
    2- If I do take oil filter out, then I would suppose I would have to drain all the oil out? Can this oil be reused as I changed the oil synthetic just two weeks ago?

    3- The electrical connector on the sensor. Does it need a tool to pull it. I tried pulled it out by hand and it didnt budge at all. I was reluctant to put more force on it.

    Any help is appreciated.

    Riz

  4. #4

    Default

    I didn't remove my oil filter, whole job only took 10 minutes. You need a 1-1/16 deep socket, a 4" extension and a ratchet wrench. Unplug the connector and remove the old sensor. I put the new one on and hand tightened it the gave it a couple of turns with the wrench.

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks for help.
    I did remove the oil filter. Did not loose much oil at all. Opened up space for sensor removal. I guess it could have been done without oil filter removal. But was not much of an effort.
    To take the connector off, I had to push a red tab to other side to release the connector. Took some inspection work to figure out.
    Then used 1 1/16" socket to unscrew the sensor. I was hoping to use a wrench to unscrew the sensor, but seems like removed filter or not, there is no way to take the sensor out without this socket.
    Then installed the new sensor with socket used 1/2" rachet to tighten. Installed teh oil filter back on. Pressure shows good reading.

    Sender/Sensor was bought at Advanced Auto for $42.99. It was priced at $49 at Advanced but O'Relly had it for $42.99, Advance matched the price. All good.

    The job itself should not be more than a 20mins job.

    Riz

  6. #6
    Registered kokowheelman's Avatar
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    What's the part number for this guy? (see Jeep below)

    I can't find it on Rock Auto or Autozone, or at least I'm looking at it but I've seen it called a 'switch,' a 'sender,' a 'sending unit,' a 'sensor,' and lastly 'sending switch.'
    2005 GC Limited 5.7L / 169,000 Miles
    Deep Beryl Green / Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo 2 / Self Boston Acoustics Front and Rear / Broken Left Rear Window

    Busted Cylinder 7 piston head... all maintenance performed, so this is a spectre over you all....

    Happy with it stock.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by kokowheelman View Post
    What's the part number for this guy? (see Jeep below)

    I can't find it on Rock Auto or Autozone, or at least I'm looking at it but I've seen it called a 'switch,' a 'sender,' a 'sending unit,' a 'sensor,' and lastly 'sending switch.'
    Go to Rock Auto:

    "Electrical switch/Relais".
    Thats where it is.
    No lift, no oversize tires,no Superchips, no CAI,....no major problems. 170 k miles.:
    Update: 1 Waterpump, both Fronthubs, 1 Starter, 2 Front Shocks, 1- 3rd brakelight, 1 Custom-built Rear driveshaft, 1 Ignition Switch, rebuilt rear diff.

  8. #8

    Default 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Location of Oil Sending Unit?

    Hey, I went to AutoZone and purchased the oil sending unit and the 1-1/16" deep socket. Got home and I see what should be the oil sending unit to the right of the oil filter, but when i unscrewed the electrical cap off the top, what is inside doesn't look like the replacement part I purchased. Is it inside another cylindrical tube that I need to remove to get to the part?

  9. #9
    Registered kokowheelman's Avatar
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    So I had the Oil Pressure Sending Unit replaced and the code P0520 is still coming up, along with P1521 (Incorrect Engine Oil). I've just put in 5W20 (to my knowledge, they put in the oil I brought in). I'm going to disconnect the battery today to let the capacitors drain and hope that clears these codes and the CEL.

    If it doesn't, I'll have to take it to the dealer and either get another oil change and have them perform that TSB as well, or they might 'actually' replace the Oil Pressure Sending Unit. I'm hesitant to say they actually replaced the sending unit because I bought 4 bottles of differential lube 75W140 because 4 was cheaper than 3, and I know only 3 should have been used while they were servicing the differentials (plus 2 bottles of FM) and they didn't give me back the 4th...

    So, any thoughts on why code 0520 is still there even though the oil pressure sending unit was 'changed?' An OP's thread on a magnum stated that he changed the sending unit and the code went away. The mechanic told me that codes don't go away (as this person described in their post on changing their oil pressure sending unit), and that I would have to pay $90.00 for them to hook up to my car and clear the codes (bull****).
    2005 GC Limited 5.7L / 169,000 Miles
    Deep Beryl Green / Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo 2 / Self Boston Acoustics Front and Rear / Broken Left Rear Window

    Busted Cylinder 7 piston head... all maintenance performed, so this is a spectre over you all....

    Happy with it stock.

  10. #10
    Registered kokowheelman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkcarden View Post
    Hey, I went to AutoZone and purchased the oil sending unit and the 1-1/16" deep socket. Got home and I see what should be the oil sending unit to the right of the oil filter, but when i unscrewed the electrical cap off the top, what is inside doesn't look like the replacement part I purchased. Is it inside another cylindrical tube that I need to remove to get to the part?
    I hope you didn't get the temperature sensor... I did that... DOH

    Also, anyone know about my problem? I replaced the pressure sending unit but the codes haven't disappeared (0520- oil pressure sending unit; 1521- incorrect oil). DAMNIT, I HAVE NEITHER OF THOSE PROBLEMS NOW!
    2005 GC Limited 5.7L / 169,000 Miles
    Deep Beryl Green / Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo 2 / Self Boston Acoustics Front and Rear / Broken Left Rear Window

    Busted Cylinder 7 piston head... all maintenance performed, so this is a spectre over you all....

    Happy with it stock.

  11. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kokowheelman View Post
    because I bought 4 bottles of differential lube 75W140 because 4 was cheaper than 3, and I know only 3 should have been used while they were servicing the differentials (plus 2 bottles of FM) and they didn't give me back the 4th...
    (bull****).
    It takes 4 1/2 bottles to change both diffs.
    You owe them 1/2 bottle.
    No lift, no oversize tires,no Superchips, no CAI,....no major problems. 170 k miles.:
    Update: 1 Waterpump, both Fronthubs, 1 Starter, 2 Front Shocks, 1- 3rd brakelight, 1 Custom-built Rear driveshaft, 1 Ignition Switch, rebuilt rear diff.

  12. #12
    Registered kokowheelman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mannny View Post
    It takes 4 1/2 bottles to change both diffs.
    You owe them 1/2 bottle.
    Are you sure? Somebody told me 1 1/2 bottle does it for each diff., someone who has performed the service themselves (on the rear too). Each bottle is 4 oz., each diff takes +/- 4 oz, so I figured for 3 bottles and I got the 4th for nothing.

    I'm going to take the Jeep to the dealer****heads and try not to get mugged, hopefully the TSB fixes the problem ONCE AND FOR ALL.

    Also, the CEL went away, but the code regarding the sending unit still appears (1521 is incorrect oil, and then 0520, for OPSU, STILL shows up second). Can the CEL go away but codes have to be cleared with a StarScan?

    Anyone got a starscan in the wash/dc/metro/balmer area?
    2005 GC Limited 5.7L / 169,000 Miles
    Deep Beryl Green / Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo 2 / Self Boston Acoustics Front and Rear / Broken Left Rear Window

    Busted Cylinder 7 piston head... all maintenance performed, so this is a spectre over you all....

    Happy with it stock.

  13. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kokowheelman View Post
    Are you sure? Somebody told me 1 1/2 bottle does it for each diff., someone who has performed the service themselves (on the rear too). Each bottle is 4 oz., each diff takes +/- 4 oz, so I figured for 3 bottles and I got the 4th for nothing.
    If you're talking about the diff. fluid ( 75 W 140 ), I can tell you it takes almost 2 bottles for the front and 2 1/2 bottles for the rear.
    There are 32 oz. in a bottle.
    The front takes 57.5 oz. and the rear 75 oz.
    No lift, no oversize tires,no Superchips, no CAI,....no major problems. 170 k miles.:
    Update: 1 Waterpump, both Fronthubs, 1 Starter, 2 Front Shocks, 1- 3rd brakelight, 1 Custom-built Rear driveshaft, 1 Ignition Switch, rebuilt rear diff.

  14. #14
    Registered kokowheelman's Avatar
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    ah cheez, i was all confused about qts and ounces... hmmm, i supplied 4 bottles, so i guess im short 5 oz, in one of the diffs... but not if 4 1/2 bottles is what actually is needed... the friction modifier will make up for some of that i hope
    2005 GC Limited 5.7L / 169,000 Miles
    Deep Beryl Green / Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo 2 / Self Boston Acoustics Front and Rear / Broken Left Rear Window

    Busted Cylinder 7 piston head... all maintenance performed, so this is a spectre over you all....

    Happy with it stock.

  15. #15

    Default

    after taking out the sensor and plug, and you've installed the new sensor, put the red tab back in the plug before you put it on, it's way easier and will just snap right in.

  16. #16

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    Hey all, i have an '05 4.7L and had this intermittent oil light issue. It did it occasionally last winter and finally noticed it only does it when it's pretty cold, like 30 degrees and colder. Never came on all summer long.

    It started back up this cold season, so i finally got the switch saturday and was about to do the swap.

    My gf (who mainly drives it) said this weekend when i bought the switch that the oil light quit coming on about a week ago. Well that's strange, but I decided to replace it anyway.

    - My plug to the sender doesn't have that red tab. I guess no big deal, but thought i'd mention.

    - My main question/issue. I read to use 1-1/16 deep well to remove the old one and to put in the new sender. The socket fits the new sender perfectly, but I couldn't remove the old one. It just spins round and round like the socket is just a tick too big. Anyone else have it where the old sender takes a smaller socket than the new one?

    And now that it isn't coming on at all anymore, not sure I should still replace it.


    Thank you,

  17. #17
    Registered IowaWK's Avatar
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    Just my opinion but since you got the new unit you might as well use it. And if you put the new one on and the oil light comes on again well then you can rule out that its the sending unit since you already replaced it. And try the next size smaller socket and see if that works.

  18. #18

    Default check guages

    My oldest son's new to him 1999 Jeep Cherokee with 4ltr engine has the "check gauge" light on all the time. Oil pressure gauge shows no pressure but has new oil and filter installed. Would it be the sensor on the block should be changed or any ideas

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