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Thread: How do I change my power steering pulley on a 5.9?

  1. #1

    Default How do I change my power steering pulley on a 5.9?

    Towing my boat back from the lake Monday at 5 am my jeep decides its gonna shred teh plastic power steering pulley. It's a GREAT truck and I love owning it. It could have picked a better time. But oh well, that is how things are.

    The new pulley does not appear to have any threads on it. And the power steering pump has straight threads comming off the shaft. Looks like you would hamer something on. It alos has a hex key bolt holding said shaft in place. I have a pretty good size pair of channel locks on it and they want to strip the shaft before loosening the bolt.

    Any ideas on what approach would work better?

    Do I need to remove this assembly or did the parts place give me the wrong pulley?

    SCCA SOLO II SM-II KY and OH State Champion 2004/ 2005 :flamejump

  2. #2
    Registered DaveG55's Avatar
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    The 4.0 and 5.2 use a press on pully - that is a royal pita to get off and on! Don't know for sure about the 5.9 as it's sometimes different in small ways.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.

  3. #3
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    There is a specific tool for this, not really that big of a PITA just annoying, and you can break pulleys easily, I have. I was really pissed at my old pulley so I cut the rest of it off, carefully, then put the new one on with the tool.. It screws into the center and then a nut, if I remember correct, gets tightened down over the bolt and presses the pulley on.. The second time around when I had to replace the pump I bought another pulley, like $13 instead of taking the old one off, and this time I used a home made version of the tool, one large bolt, two large buts, sorry don't remember the specifics. I am pretty sure Harbor Freight has a cheapy version...
    2000 5.2 4x4 WJ

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by NonStop View Post
    There is a specific tool for this, not really that big of a PITA just annoying, and you can break pulleys easily, I have. I was really pissed at my old pulley so I cut the rest of it off, carefully, then put the new one on with the tool.. It screws into the center and then a nut, if I remember correct, gets tightened down over the bolt and presses the pulley on.. The second time around when I had to replace the pump I bought another pulley, like $13 instead of taking the old one off, and this time I used a home made version of the tool, one large bolt, two large buts, sorry don't remember the specifics. I am pretty sure Harbor Freight has a cheapy version...
    There is the pulley. It has now completely broken off. All that is left is a silver metal peice that has lines cut straight out. In the center there is an allen head bolt that goes through said peice of metal. Does thsi bolt have to come out? I'm having one hell of a time making it come loose.

    At this point it looks like I ould be better served to completely remove the power steering unit and work on it out side of the engine bay.

    Is there a proceedural on how to do this?

    SCCA SOLO II SM-II KY and OH State Champion 2004/ 2005 :flamejump

  5. #5
    Registered It's a JEEP thing's Avatar
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    Lightbulb It might be too late for this!

    Working on cars for over 25 years I have found the best Power steering pump pulley removal tools are made by snap on #CJ117C Kit.

    If there is no plastic left from the pulley you will need to remove the pump and use a press to remove what’s left.

    Good luck
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  6. #6
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    The "bolt" I think you are referring to, it's been a long time, is the pump shaft... The metal ring that you have left is the center of the plastic pulley. If you don't own a shop manual it sounds like Right now is the time to buy it. This is actually a simple operation but at this point it sounds like a pulled and/or removing the pump are in your future.. Again not a big deal but... A shop manual and common sense will save money.

    As for the Snap On set, without a doubt it is one of the best and strongest.sets on the market. If I'm not mistake. It is actually the most expensive right now. For someone to use a puller or certain tool once and never again.. Just not logical.. However once you get really tired of tools, even expensive ones, breaking while being used, most will end up with snap on. A friend has a route down here and I love all my snap on stuff but to ask someone that might not be in this for the long haul to pay $200+. Vs. $24 and maybe be annoyed at how cheap the tool is then throw it away anyhow.. Or heck maybe get tons of use out of it helping friends..
    PS. Snap On stuff really is that good.. Even the socks are better...
    2000 5.2 4x4 WJ

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by NonStop View Post
    The "bolt" I think you are referring to, it's been a long time, is the pump shaft... The metal ring that you have left is the center of the plastic pulley. If you don't own a shop manual it sounds like Right now is the time to buy it. This is actually a simple operation but at this point it sounds like a pulled and/or removing the pump are in your future.. Again not a big deal but... A shop manual and common sense will save money.

    As for the Snap On set, without a doubt it is one of the best and strongest.sets on the market. If I'm not mistake. It is actually the most expensive right now. For someone to use a puller or certain tool once and never again.. Just not logical.. However once you get really tired of tools, even expensive ones, breaking while being used, most will end up with snap on. A friend has a route down here and I love all my snap on stuff but to ask someone that might not be in this for the long haul to pay $200+. Vs. $24 and maybe be annoyed at how cheap the tool is then throw it away anyhow.. Or heck maybe get tons of use out of it helping friends..
    PS. Snap On stuff really is that good.. Even the socks are better...
    How tough could it be to remove the power steering pump? I know there are two hydralic lines involved. Do I remove them at the pump?

    I don't want to fork out the cash for a nice tool that I will proabably use 1 time. At least not yet. I may just remove the pump and take it to a machine shop and have them remove and re-install the pulley.

    I'm pointing at teh bolt in question: Does it need to come out for the sleeve to be removed?

    Also, Where would I dis connect teh power steering lines?
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    SCCA SOLO II SM-II KY and OH State Champion 2004/ 2005 :flamejump

  8. #8

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    I believe that what is left of the pulley is all you need to pull it off with the removal/install tool.
    The tool can be rented and then returned for no cost at an Advance or Autozone.
    I think the best route to take is get a new pulley when you rent the tool.
    Remove what is left and then install the new pulley and return the tool.
    My 2pennies!

  9. #9

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    Where do i pull off the lines from the power steering pump? At teh unit?

    SCCA SOLO II SM-II KY and OH State Champion 2004/ 2005 :flamejump

  10. #10
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    You got it, that "nut" is the shaft...There are only two lines, super simple. the one that sticks up right there next to the collar that is left on the shat, that one is annoying sometimes, just clean the area well. I agree, totally forgot about rental tools, I am lucky it only took me 20 years but I finally got a nice space to work in and start collecting tools.. But yeah ,the tool is easily rented, the puller that is, a three jaw puller is a simple tool, only PITA is that the "jaw" part is meant to gow around the outside of a pulley and not the tiny diameter of that collar, and there might not be enough space behind it to get the arms.. Just don't hammer it too bad, if you tweak that shaft, when you put it back in you are going to have a leaky front shaft, and that is gonna suck..

    My .02 which most people don't like, the pump cost me $40 the pulley $13, not sure how many miles you have on yours, or what it would cost everyone anywhere else, but I was so friggin frustrated the second time around that I wanted to put it all together on the bench then just install a fresh unit... plus my old pump had 170k miles on it, even though it was strong I had beaten it so bad getting the old pulley off, the second time, I just gave it back..

    I think if you look hard enough you can find online coupons and pick it up cheaper than paying someone to do anything..
    Pump w/res. is $60 retail, pulley is $20 I had a great coupon for Advance last week, $20 off $50 that means for $60 I have a new pump and pulley. I usually don't pay retail, and if you look, I am sure it is cheaper somewhere..
    all in one trip.....fogedabowdit

    Either way................ you got this... you can do it...
    Three bolts, two lines, big PITA on the collar, little one on the install.. fluid, and back in biz..
    2000 5.2 4x4 WJ

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by NonStop View Post
    You got it, that "nut" is the shaft...There are only two lines, super simple. the one that sticks up right there next to the collar that is left on the shat, that one is annoying sometimes, just clean the area well. I agree, totally forgot about rental tools, I am lucky it only took me 20 years but I finally got a nice space to work in and start collecting tools.. But yeah ,the tool is easily rented, the puller that is, a three jaw puller is a simple tool, only PITA is that the "jaw" part is meant to gow around the outside of a pulley and not the tiny diameter of that collar, and there might not be enough space behind it to get the arms.. Just don't hammer it too bad, if you tweak that shaft, when you put it back in you are going to have a leaky front shaft, and that is gonna suck..

    My .02 which most people don't like, the pump cost me $40 the pulley $13, not sure how many miles you have on yours, or what it would cost everyone anywhere else, but I was so friggin frustrated the second time around that I wanted to put it all together on the bench then just install a fresh unit... plus my old pump had 170k miles on it, even though it was strong I had beaten it so bad getting the old pulley off, the second time, I just gave it back..

    I think if you look hard enough you can find online coupons and pick it up cheaper than paying someone to do anything..
    Pump w/res. is $60 retail, pulley is $20 I had a great coupon for Advance last week, $20 off $50 that means for $60 I have a new pump and pulley. I usually don't pay retail, and if you look, I am sure it is cheaper somewhere..
    all in one trip.....fogedabowdit

    Either way................ you got this... you can do it...
    Three bolts, two lines, big PITA on the collar, little one on the install.. fluid, and back in biz..
    Thank you. Good advice. +1 rep for you.

    SCCA SOLO II SM-II KY and OH State Champion 2004/ 2005 :flamejump

  12. #12

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    Guys- Does th bolt in the middle of the pump, the one I am pointing at, it has an allen head on it. Does this need to be removed? I need to know. Going on day three.

    I'm also haveing one heck of a time getting the power steering hoses off. Do I take them off from the bottom, closest to the unit, the Big nut, or the smaller one that is approx 2 inches up?

    SCCA SOLO II SM-II KY and OH State Champion 2004/ 2005 :flamejump

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dequity View Post
    Guys- Does th bolt in the middle of the pump, the one I am pointing at, it has an allen head on it. Does this need to be removed? I need to know. Going on day three.

    I'm also haveing one heck of a time getting the power steering hoses off. Do I take them off from the bottom, closest to the unit, the Big nut, or the smaller one that is approx 2 inches up?
    Answer--- NO. Its the pulley.

    SCCA SOLO II SM-II KY and OH State Champion 2004/ 2005 :flamejump

  14. #14
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    Why not just get another pump from the wreckers? 97-98 5.2's have the same pumps and pulleys, you can even use a pump with pulley from a 96 5.2 as long as it's a Laredo.

  15. #15
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    Don't fuss with the "bolt" in the center.... again, it is the shaft...

    The fitting on the top, or front of the pump should be the only one that gives you any trouble, the nut that is directly on the pump housing, the one that it wo9uld seem you should be taking off, Don't... that is attached to the pump.. the one you should be turning is the one on the approx. 2" long tube that sticks out of that nut.. it is I think somewhere around 1/2" not sure really but it isn't the one that is directly on the pump..Hit the end of it where it enters the pump with some PB then just tap it, Tap it at the nut a bit, wait a while... Put a wrench on there, IIRC I used a flare nut wrench for the hose nut and a stubby on the pump for leverage, and be smooth and patient, it will come loose.. The proper wrench will help, and putting one wrench around the bolt attached to the pump and the other on the nut you are working on should make it easier.. That is the only PITA I remember...
    Have you figured on what you are gonna do with the re-install, you planning on getting a new pump or tryin to save this one?
    2000 5.2 4x4 WJ

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by NonStop View Post
    Don't fuss with the "bolt" in the center.... again, it is the shaft...

    The fitting on the top, or front of the pump should be the only one that gives you any trouble, the nut that is directly on the pump housing, the one that it wo9uld seem you should be taking off, Don't... that is attached to the pump.. the one you should be turning is the one on the approx. 2" long tube that sticks out of that nut.. it is I think somewhere around 1/2" not sure really but it isn't the one that is directly on the pump..Hit the end of it where it enters the pump with some PB then just tap it, Tap it at the nut a bit, wait a while... Put a wrench on there, IIRC I used a flare nut wrench for the hose nut and a stubby on the pump for leverage, and be smooth and patient, it will come loose.. The proper wrench will help, and putting one wrench around the bolt attached to the pump and the other on the nut you are working on should make it easier.. That is the only PITA I remember...
    Have you figured on what you are gonna do with the re-install, you planning on getting a new pump or tryin to save this one?


    I bought a new pump. Was having one heck of a time pressing the pulley onto said pump, so I tried to hammer it on.. Big mistake. Now I get to go but another new pump and a new pulley. Thinking that I should take it to a machine shop and have it pressed on.

    This sucks. One repair I wish I had taken to the shop $200 later I would have been driving.

    SCCA SOLO II SM-II KY and OH State Champion 2004/ 2005 :flamejump

  17. #17
    Registered sjx426's Avatar
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    Frustrating lesson, don't use a hammer when it is to be a press fit.
    Often an air impact wrench is used to put these on. I used a long breaker bar for leverage. Initially it can feel hard to put on. Once it is aligned to the shaft it will go on smoothly. Just remember that the resistance will increase as it gets into position.
    Contrary to instructions, I put the pulley on with everything mounted. Once the pulley is near the right location, I put the belt on loosly to check for alignment with the other pulley's. I have done this twice and probably didn't need to as it nearly reached maximum on the shaft when it aligned.
    My local NAPA store removed and installed one pulley for me using a $40 tool that clamped all around the removal ring. I have also used the OReily "Jaw" type tool with success while being very careful in the removal processs.
    2000 WJ Limited - 4.7 QD Stock
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  18. #18

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    Proceedural:

    Remove the three bolts that hold the power steering pump. They are obvious. Remove pump. Low side fluid line has only a fastrener holding it in place. Plyers will allow you to slide it down and remove that line. The other line: Remove the top area. This is approx 2 inches above the unit. With a hydralic hose attached.

    Take entire unit to autozone. They have the tools int eh shop and the guys will actually change pulleys for you. If you have more than 80k on your truck go ahead and spend 45 and buy a new powers teering pump. New pulley is 16. They will then put it on for you in the store using the same tools you can borrow from rthem for free. If you are dead set on doing it yourself then borrow the tools, drive all the way home, install it then drive back. or just do it there.

    Poof- job done.

    SCCA SOLO II SM-II KY and OH State Champion 2004/ 2005 :flamejump

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