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Thread: front drive shaft removal

  1. #1
    Registered Phil1868's Avatar
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    Icon922 front drive shaft removal

    Hi Guys
    Is it possible to run my 2001 4.7l quadradrive Jeep without the front drive shaft (we call them propshafts in england) on tarmac.
    Cheers Phil

  2. #2
    Need more jigawatts mrbell83's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil1868 View Post
    Hi Guys
    Is it possible to run my 2001 4.7l quadradrive Jeep without the front drive shaft (we call them propshafts in england) on tarmac.
    Cheers Phil
    Why would you want to? There is no benefit.
    Chris
    ---------------------------------------------------
    Khaki 04 Laredo 4.7L, QT-II, Magnaflow exhaust, 255/70/16 Firestone destination A/T's, OME HD springs, MX6 shocks. Amsoiled


  3. #3
    Registered Phil1868's Avatar
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    The front diff as been rebuilt and its still noisey also its getting really really hot and the diff builders reckon there is nothing wrong with it (B*****s) and I cannot afford to get it fixed again so was wondering if it could be driven without the front drive shaft until I can afford to get it fixed. Not ideal I know but I am really stuck.
    Phil

  4. #4
    Registered SLTahoe's Avatar
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    I did on my 2000 4.7l WJ w Quadradrive.

    My front propshaft tore it's cv boots and slung grease all around and overheated. I removed it for the meantime while i looked for a replacement.

    well the replacement never came for months. So i was a rwd Jeep for about 8 months.

    I didnt have any issues.

  5. #5
    Crankcase '01WJeepp's Avatar
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    Are there any write ups on how to take it out? Is it difficult or a 1,2,3 job? im getting vibs at 70+ mph and My front shaft was recently replaced, I want to see if that's the problem.
    -Will
    2001 WJ 4.0 242TC 204k on body & trans, 24K on engine

    BDS 2" Coils w/ Bilstein 5100's, Addco Rear Bar, I.R.O. Adj. A-Arm, Magnaflow Exhaust, Trans Cooler, HID Heads/Fogs, PIAA 520 SMR, Vinyl Hood Blackout, Bed-lined Cladding, I.R.O. Secondary S.S., Akebonos!, Stillens all-round, 4 Hole Injectors, K&N CAI, Alpine/Kicker Audio, 2 MTX 12'' Subs, JL Audio Amp, Overland Interior, Limited Grill & Gauges, Fender Blinkers, Black JK Rubis, 1" Wheel Spacers, Hankook Dynapro ATM 245/70/17

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by billymtnbikes View Post
    Are there any write ups on how to take it out? Is it difficult or a 1,2,3 job? im getting vibs at 70+ mph and My front shaft was recently replaced, I want to see if that's the problem.
    Just take out the bolts (all 8mm) that hold the shaft to the yoke at each end. Shouldn't take a half hour.

    I drove without mine for about 300 miles and have since replaced it, noticing no change or anything out of the ordinary, though I've read that the 247's shouldn't be driven long without them so damage is not incurred by the viscous coupler in the transfer case. But I cannot confirm that.

  7. #7
    Registered shortyno10's Avatar
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    the 8mm bolts at the t-case yoke might be a bitch. i used a torch to get the little smurfers loose
    99 Grand Cherokee V8
    4" lift
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    Registered xJoshxx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logicus View Post
    Just take out the bolts (all 8mm) that hold the shaft to the yoke at each end. Shouldn't take a half hour.

    I drove without mine for about 300 miles and have since replaced it, noticing no change or anything out of the ordinary, though I've read that the 247's shouldn't be driven long without them so damage is not incurred by the viscous coupler in the transfer case. But I cannot confirm that.
    i thought the 249 had VC's and the 247's have Progressive Couplers?

  9. #9
    JEEP FREAK mustangbd24's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xJoshxx View Post
    i thought the 249 had VC's and the 247's have Progressive Couplers?
    You are correct, the 247 has the progressive coupler
    2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L 90k
    3" IRO lift + 1" pucks, Bilstein 5100's, IRO adjustable A-Arm, dual stabilizers, IRO Track bar drop and Drop pitman, IRO Adjustable lowers, Rusty's Adjustable uppers, sitting on 265/70R/17's, Rear Addco SwayBar, 17" MOABS, K&N FIPK2, Poweraid TB spacer, Superchips Flashpack

  10. #10
    Audio/Offroad Enthusiast
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    Not to thread jack, but does 242 have VC?

  11. #11
    Registered sjx426's Avatar
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    No
    2000 WJ Limited - 4.7 QD Stock
    1997 ZJ Limited - Stock with 4.0 and 242 - Totaled in 2007
    1992 XJ Limited - 4.0HO 242 Tow, 2"BB, 245/70x16" GC Wheels or 30.5x9.5x15 BFG A/T's, Rear Air Shocks, sold.
    1990 XJ Laredo - 4.0 242 Tow, Borla header to tail, K&N, Adj MAP, Hella 550 (2)
    1998 XJ Limited - Stock with Up Country Package.

  12. #12
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    Not recommended, TC will be fine but it puts alot of power to the back wheels and if oyu have QD can overwhelm it.

    Also there would be zero benefit, just because the front DS doesn't mean the wheels are going to stop turning.

  13. #13
    Registered skain8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ///BHRpowered View Post
    Not recommended, TC will be fine but it puts alot of power to the back wheels and if oyu have QD can overwhelm it..
    Say what?
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  14. #14
    Registered Jeepoffroadking's Avatar
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    I am running no front drive shaft and I haven't noticed anything wrong yet. Key word yet. Those 8mm bolts might just be the only thing that came off the jeep without a blood sacrifice. My jeep loves my blood.
    1999 WJ Laredo
    - 4.7 H.O
    - 242
    - 3.5" Lift
    - Dual SS
    - 255-75-17 BFG M/T
    2002 WJ Laredo
    - 4.0
    - 242

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by mustangbd24 View Post
    You are correct, the 247 has the progressive coupler
    Huh, sorry... wrong term... I was thinkning the 247 and 249 systems were the same except for the vari-locks.

  16. #16
    Registered Phil1868's Avatar
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    So are we all agreed that i can?
    or cannot?
    run with out the front driveshaft.
    Phil

  17. #17

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    I wonder if it isn't something wrong with your prop shaft or t-case, that might be causing your front end to be locked up all the time, instead of having the "differential effect" occur, and is causing your front end to overheat? Just thinking out loud.

  18. #18
    Registered Phil1868's Avatar
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    I got a update on the front diff, the diff builders said if I take it to a main stealer and they confirm its the diff they will put it right. So off I went and the report confirms noise to be front diff,we suggest the front diff and pinion bearings preload and backlash have been set incorrectly causing the bearings to run offset and emit excess noise and wear. Sounds daft but I am well happy with that, faxed the report to the diff builders who then rung me arranged time for collection and have now taken it away for repair(hopefully)
    the only down side is the wife drove the Jeep for the 1st time and loves it and now she wants it as her car
    Phil

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