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Thread: I press brakes steering wheel shakes, happens often but not every single time.

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    Crankcase '01WJeepp's Avatar
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    Default I press brakes steering wheel shakes, happens often but not every single time.

    I'm wondering what it is. Could it be death wobble, wish the brakes engaged? to stop it I let go of the brakes then engage again and it is less noticeable. Thanks
    -Will
    2001 WJ 4.0 242TC 204k on body & trans, 24K on engine

    BDS 2" Coils w/ Bilstein 5100's, Addco Rear Bar, I.R.O. Adj. A-Arm, Magnaflow Exhaust, Trans Cooler, HID Heads/Fogs, PIAA 520 SMR, Vinyl Hood Blackout, Bed-lined Cladding, I.R.O. Secondary S.S., Akebonos!, Stillens all-round, 4 Hole Injectors, K&N CAI, Alpine/Kicker Audio, 2 MTX 12'' Subs, JL Audio Amp, Overland Interior, Limited Grill & Gauges, Fender Blinkers, Black JK Rubis, 1" Wheel Spacers, Hankook Dynapro ATM 245/70/17

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    when is the last time you changed you rotors could be warped

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    Quote Originally Posted by shimmyshank101 View Post
    when is the last time you changed you rotors could be warped
    This is the most asked question I have ever seen, but x2 ^ when you're steering wheel shakes upon braking then you have warped rotors, simple as that.

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    Crankcase '01WJeepp's Avatar
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    Simple enough, Thanks guys. They are pretty old. like 25k on them and im tough on brakes
    -Will
    2001 WJ 4.0 242TC 204k on body & trans, 24K on engine

    BDS 2" Coils w/ Bilstein 5100's, Addco Rear Bar, I.R.O. Adj. A-Arm, Magnaflow Exhaust, Trans Cooler, HID Heads/Fogs, PIAA 520 SMR, Vinyl Hood Blackout, Bed-lined Cladding, I.R.O. Secondary S.S., Akebonos!, Stillens all-round, 4 Hole Injectors, K&N CAI, Alpine/Kicker Audio, 2 MTX 12'' Subs, JL Audio Amp, Overland Interior, Limited Grill & Gauges, Fender Blinkers, Black JK Rubis, 1" Wheel Spacers, Hankook Dynapro ATM 245/70/17

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    Registered Billy Ray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billymtnbikes View Post
    I'm wondering what it is. Could it be death wobble, wish the brakes engaged? to stop it I let go of the brakes then engage again and it is less noticeable. Thanks
    This question comes up pretty often, let me give you a generalization describing Death Wobble.

    If the vehicle isn't shaking so badly that you are absolutely positive you are going to die it isn't DW.
    -br

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    what the hell is a death wobble?

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    Registered ChiliPepperTJ's Avatar
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    Yes, death Wobble is "o crap were gonna die" violent shaking. Rotor issues are a slight shaking in the steering wheel and pulsation in the brake pedal. Put new rotors and pads on and youll be good.
    '84 CJ-7 Renegade- 258 GM TBI with spark control and HEI, t-5, d300, d30 w/aussie locker, amc20 w/ trac loc, 33" Swamper SSR's, 2.5" BDS, 1" BL, MORE shackles, Superwinch hubs, Superior shafts, tie-rod flip, Taurus Fan, YJ brake booster, Full cage, A to Z rocker guards, A to Z rear cage, lots of other stuff...
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    Before you buy new rotors, relubricate the caliper pins. Mine would shake badly, take foot off the pedal for a second, reapply brakes and shake is gone. I may be wrong, but I would think that warped rotors would shake all of the time.

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    give me your nachos Beavis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billy Ray View Post
    This question comes up pretty often, let me give you a generalization describing Death Wobble.

    If the vehicle isn't shaking so badly that you are absolutely positive you are going to die it isn't DW.
    this should be posted clearly on top of the forum,

    in font 24 bold red underlined

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99jgcltd View Post
    Before you buy new rotors, relubricate the caliper pins. Mine would shake badly, take foot off the pedal for a second, reapply brakes and shake is gone. I may be wrong, but I would think that warped rotors would shake all of the time.
    What do you mean by all the time, as in it shakes at braking point all the time, or it shakes 24/7 when moving

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    only once the brakes are applied. the remedy is to take my foot off then reapply and the shaking goes away for the most part.
    -Will
    2001 WJ 4.0 242TC 204k on body & trans, 24K on engine

    BDS 2" Coils w/ Bilstein 5100's, Addco Rear Bar, I.R.O. Adj. A-Arm, Magnaflow Exhaust, Trans Cooler, HID Heads/Fogs, PIAA 520 SMR, Vinyl Hood Blackout, Bed-lined Cladding, I.R.O. Secondary S.S., Akebonos!, Stillens all-round, 4 Hole Injectors, K&N CAI, Alpine/Kicker Audio, 2 MTX 12'' Subs, JL Audio Amp, Overland Interior, Limited Grill & Gauges, Fender Blinkers, Black JK Rubis, 1" Wheel Spacers, Hankook Dynapro ATM 245/70/17

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    I'd pull the calipers and check the pins. One of them is probably froze or getting really stiff. You need to clean them out and put new brake lube on them. If they're really bad you'll have to replace the pins or the caliper mounting bracket.
    MILD-'03 WJ - 4.0, 242, 3" OME HD, ProComp MX6s, 255/70/17 Revo2s on JK Moab Takeoffs.
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    I stick by the diagnostic that its the rotors, stiff pins usually end up in uneven ware of the pads

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    I mean that when you apply the brake and get the shake, take your foot off the pedal for a second and reapply and the shake is completely gone. Not 24/7.

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    Still sticking to my opinion =/

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    I've got a similar if not the same issue. I had a horrible rotor problem. Replaced the front rotors, fullly bled all brake fluid and in while doing so replaced with fresh fluid, and new pads all around. Sometimes, more often than not, I will still get a shaking in the wheel when I apply the brakes....if I let up and reapply I can make the shaking go away. Not really sure what is causing the shaking in the first place since they are new pads and rotors. I wouldn't think that the rear rotors could cause the wheel to shake but maybe..?
    2002 H.O. WJ Limited: Stone White

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    Registered Johnny V's Avatar
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    Rotors are wrapped.

    Most mechanics use the cheapest rotors and pads for a brake job and of course the rotors will warp. Best to get quality rotor and pads. You don't need top of the line but something other than the cheapest. Also mentioned is to make sure everything is lubed properly.

    Are you happy with the repair that the body shop did?
    Best Regards,

    John V.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------
    2002 WJ Limited 4.7L ||| Inferno Red Tinted Pearl Coat ||| Quadra-Drive/Trac II 4WD System ||| Firestone Destinations LE2 245/65R17 @ 129,500 Miles
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    1995 ZJ Laredo I-6 4L Auto
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    31" Firestone Destination AT - Quiet, Sticks Like Glue

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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny V View Post
    Rotors are wrapped.

    Most mechanics use the cheapest rotors and pads for a brake job and of course the rotors will warp. Best to get quality rotor and pads. You don't need top of the line but something other than the cheapest. Also mentioned is to make sure everything is lubed properly.

    Are you happy with the repair that the body shop did?
    the shop did an alright job. after the guys who crashed it fixed it we brought it in and had the whole front axle replaced by another guy. when i get home from college and switched the rims back to the stock ones ill check if the shimmy I get at high speeds goes away then ill be happy. but as of now the extreme shimmy/vibrations at high speeds really pisses me off.
    -Will
    2001 WJ 4.0 242TC 204k on body & trans, 24K on engine

    BDS 2" Coils w/ Bilstein 5100's, Addco Rear Bar, I.R.O. Adj. A-Arm, Magnaflow Exhaust, Trans Cooler, HID Heads/Fogs, PIAA 520 SMR, Vinyl Hood Blackout, Bed-lined Cladding, I.R.O. Secondary S.S., Akebonos!, Stillens all-round, 4 Hole Injectors, K&N CAI, Alpine/Kicker Audio, 2 MTX 12'' Subs, JL Audio Amp, Overland Interior, Limited Grill & Gauges, Fender Blinkers, Black JK Rubis, 1" Wheel Spacers, Hankook Dynapro ATM 245/70/17

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    Registered Johnny V's Avatar
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    If it's shimming at high speeds then I'd check wheel balance first. But it could be worn/loose front steering/suspension components.

    Anyway to bring it back to the shop and have them fix it? I'm sure it wasn't doing that before the crash.
    Best Regards,

    John V.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------
    2002 WJ Limited 4.7L ||| Inferno Red Tinted Pearl Coat ||| Quadra-Drive/Trac II 4WD System ||| Firestone Destinations LE2 245/65R17 @ 129,500 Miles
    -------------------------------------------------------------------
    1995 ZJ Laredo I-6 4L Auto
    Rubicon Express Budget Boost w/Monroe 37082/37081 Sensa-Trac Light Truck Shock Absorber ( Rides Like a Cadillac )
    31" Firestone Destination AT - Quiet, Sticks Like Glue

    -------------------------------------------------------------------
    1989 XJ Laredo I-6 4L Auto (SOLD...good-bye old friend)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny V View Post
    If it's shimming at high speeds then I'd check wheel balance first. But it could be worn/loose front steering/suspension components.

    Anyway to bring it back to the shop and have them fix it? I'm sure it wasn't doing that before the crash.
    Correct, It wasn't doing that before the crash. The rear left tire is wearing funny though. maybe the read axle was bent also? once I put the stock tires and rims on ill be able to make a better conclusion. the whole front end was re done by a jeep professional. So I would think the whole steering/suspension is on and tight, but I could be wrong.
    -Will
    2001 WJ 4.0 242TC 204k on body & trans, 24K on engine

    BDS 2" Coils w/ Bilstein 5100's, Addco Rear Bar, I.R.O. Adj. A-Arm, Magnaflow Exhaust, Trans Cooler, HID Heads/Fogs, PIAA 520 SMR, Vinyl Hood Blackout, Bed-lined Cladding, I.R.O. Secondary S.S., Akebonos!, Stillens all-round, 4 Hole Injectors, K&N CAI, Alpine/Kicker Audio, 2 MTX 12'' Subs, JL Audio Amp, Overland Interior, Limited Grill & Gauges, Fender Blinkers, Black JK Rubis, 1" Wheel Spacers, Hankook Dynapro ATM 245/70/17

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