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Thread: Oil Leak. Loads of it

  1. #1
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    Default Oil Leak. Loads of it

    put a new rear main seal and oil pain gasket in it.
    took it apart again. looked fine. put it together
    stange noise. took it apart. all good put it together.
    still leaked drove it, the leak stopped completely
    did some donuts. now it leaks A LOT!!!!
    any ideas?
    '89 YJ - 4.2L Auto.

  2. #2
    2005 TJ Trail rig.... jeepsr4me's Avatar
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    Well I would say it was never fixed. Cause when done correctly the oil seal will stop oil from coming out immediatly. And saying you drove it for a while and then it finally stopped, tells me either a piece of trash got in there or old sealant and stopped the leak just long enough for you to stress the engine a little and bam leaking again. Did you get a chance to look at the sealing surface to see if it has a groove in it? Also how are you installing the seal? I have done 2 with engine still in and when i did the install 1st time I used engine oil to lube it on way in. It leaked. 2nd time I cleaned everthing super clean with carb cleaner. Then applied a tiny amount of sealant on the edge that goes into the block, being careful of not getting any on the sealing area of the crank. Then taking and rubbing the sealing area with a thin layer of grease, Then install, once in I took a small dab of sealant and put on the end of seal, again being very careful of not getting any on the sealing area. I also offset the seals too, when installing into the block, I did not push all the away around. I left about a 1/4 inch sticking out on one side. That way the gap of the seal will not be at the gap of the main cap. That time the main did not leak.

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    the only groves in it are the ones that were in it beofre i installed it. and i did as the book said. dishsoap on the back and oil on the mating surface.
    did u say u put sealant on the side that mates with the block? and grease on the side that mates with the crankshaft?
    when i did it. i used dishsoap and oil i pushed it through and it and tried my best to line it up so it was sticking out the same on both sides. Then bolted on the bottom half
    '89 YJ - 4.2L Auto.

  4. #4
    2005 TJ Trail rig.... jeepsr4me's Avatar
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    Yeah, grease was on there to keep the seal from sticking to the crank as i pushed it though. the sealant was on there to keep any oil from going around the seal that way. Makes it hard to get the seal out that way later. But it works.

    If your crank has a groove in it the seal will never keep the oil in. You will have to get another crank of have the surface machined down and a bushing installed on it. But dont think they make a bushing that big

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    is it possible that they gave me the Crankshaft seal instead of the Rear main Seal? are they both two peice ones?
    '89 YJ - 4.2L Auto.

  6. #6
    2005 TJ Trail rig.... jeepsr4me's Avatar
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    same thing

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    they are the exact same?
    cuz he asked if mine was double ridge or single ridge. i got single thats all they had in. i looked on autozone.com and all they have on there is the double ridge. for the rear maine. looks like maybe single ridge for the crankshaft seal. idk?

    but they two seals are diff. prices
    '89 YJ - 4.2L Auto.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepsr4me View Post
    Yeah, grease was on there to keep the seal from sticking to the crank as i pushed it though. the sealant was on there to keep any oil from going around the seal that way. Makes it hard to get the seal out that way later. But it works.

    If your crank has a groove in it the seal will never keep the oil in. You will have to get another crank of have the surface machined down and a bushing installed on it. But dont think they make a bushing that big
    the crank has no groves but there are groves on the seal, they came that way. oops lol. no the crank is smooth as can be
    '89 YJ - 4.2L Auto.

  9. #9
    2005 TJ Trail rig.... jeepsr4me's Avatar
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    Not sure which seal you need. I normally cut the little tab off that way I can offset the seal. Then use sealant to fill the area of the tabs I cut off. Hard to explain in typing.

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    i see what your saying. but it seems a little weird to cut pieces off a new seal. i guess i could try it tho.
    '89 YJ - 4.2L Auto.

  11. #11

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    One trick an old school mechanic taught me was to put grease on the bottom of the oil pan gasket (glue top of gasket to block). This way you can get 2 to 3 uses out of the same oil pan seal. Done this on every engine I built with no problems. Had to remove the pan on my jeep due to a oil pump problem and the pan almost just fell off. Reused the gasket (sealer in the corners) without any leaks.


    90 YJ, 4.2 with AX15, 33" tires, Canyon Rims,1" body lift, 3" suspension, MC2150 Carb with Nutter, Ford 8.8 with LS 4.11, Dana 30 w Aussie Locker, 9000 HF winch

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    Having read a number of posts including this one, I was convinced I needed to replace the main seal and gasket so I bought them and prepared for the job. As I was starting, I noticed what looked like a lead in the middle of the pan and towards the rear. I checked the pan bolts only to discover than 7 or 8 of them were losse and the two bigger bolts near the main seal were really loose. Tightened them up and my leak was solved. Sometimes the obvious is easily overlooked.
    89 Wrangler; 110K miles; 4.2L; 5 speed;

  13. #13

    Icon922

    I got a leak also that looks like its coming from the rear seal. Could also be the oil filter adapter. I changed the valve cover gasket about a month ago so it cant be that.

    Does any one have a link to a page that shows a step by step process for changing out the rear engine seal?
    Is the Timken brand sold at Autozone a good brand. It goes for $55.99.
    Thanks,
    2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 L, K&N Air Filter,
    JK 18" Gladiator Wheels.

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