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Thread: P0700 & P0743 Codes

  1. #1

    Exclamation P0700 & P0743 Codes

    1997 XJ Sport, 4.0, Automatic
    185K miles

    I need some help.

    Autozone broke out the P0700 & P0743 codes...

    I have read the "english" version of the code descriptions, but can anyone break out the "crayons" for me here?

    Symptom: The CE light comes on and when the OD is supposed to kick in at ~ 43 MPH it does not... All of the other gears seem to shift when expected.

    So...
    Is it the transmission?
    Is it Torque Converter? What & where is the Torque Converter?
    Is it electrical?

    Wondering what to do...

    Any information is much appreciated...
    Last edited by tja; 06-30-2009 at 02:21 PM.
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  2. #2
    A Little Man
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    Since your clueless I would take it to a shop/dealer.

    Could be the torque converter or some type of wiring/solenoid in the trans. Maybe the module too I suppose.
    00-XJ-30's
    95-YJ-35's-locked F/R
    93-ZJ-31's-OME

  3. #3

    Default Torque Converter Stall Test

    So I acquired the FSM and looked through it...

    I performed the Torque Converter Stall Test, and the tach read ~ 2200 RPMs in D and Reverse. According to the manual, this range is acceptable. Not sure if this all inclusively
    proves the TC is functional, but it is something.

    More as I learn it...

    I have read about some solenoids relating to the TC...where are they and are they accessible without removing the tranny?

    Also, is the TC part of the tranny internally...or is it connected to it somehow? I have not yet found a diagram that reflects this...

    Thanks,

    tja
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  4. #4
    A Little Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by tja View Post
    So I acquired the FSM and looked through it...

    I performed the Torque Converter Stall Test, and the tach read ~ 2200 RPMs in D and Reverse. According to the manual, this range is acceptable. Not sure if this all inclusively
    proves the TC is functional, but it is something.

    More as I learn it...

    I have read about some solenoids relating to the TC...where are they and are they accessible without removing the tranny?

    Also, is the TC part of the tranny internally...or is it connected to it somehow? I have not yet found a diagram that reflects this...

    Thanks,

    tja
    Solenoids are inside the trans. pan.

    Torque converter is serviceable but you have to remove the trans. to change it.

    The converter is the blue thing in this picture.

    00-XJ-30's
    95-YJ-35's-locked F/R
    93-ZJ-31's-OME

  5. #5

    Cool Good stuff...

    Wow...thanks. That helps to see what I have been reading about.

    As for the solenoid(s), I am going to try and search through the schematics to determine where I can take my ohm meter and take some measurements to verify or isolate a problem area.

    I am really am leaning toward an electrical problem.

    Another thing I will try tonight is to disconnect...I think...the TCC (Transmission Control)..I may have that wrong. But it would require me to "manually" shift from 1/2, to 3 and then into 4(OD). I think all is good in the transmission...but want to go through the exercise for peace of mind if nothing else.

    If you have any suggestions, throw them my way...

    Thanks again,

    tja
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  6. #6

    Default

    So here I am in the middle of diging into things...

    I have downloaded so many manuals and procedures...some are obviously not the right version and that has added some confusion...but finally I think I have got to something that makes sense. I disconnected the connector off to the left (passengers side) of the valve pan cover, and measured the following to the negative battery lead (I have the positive lead removed):

    Ohms Read - Wire Color - Solenoid
    13.3 Ohms -> White ==========> S1
    13.2 Ohms -> Orange/White ====> S2
    61.0 Ohms -> Dark Blue/White ==> S3 (Torque Converter Lock-up Solenoid)

    All of the documentation that I have read indicates that the solenoid should not read above 10 Ohms. Knowing that a wire/connectors have some resistance (a few Ohms, maybe, depending on the length), I believe that the 13.x Ohm reading for the S1 and S2 pins in the connector are fine. However, based upon the documentation, that 61.0 Ohm reading on the S3 Solenoid is way out of tolerance. So, for giggles I am going to plug that connector back in, disconnect the TCU connector and take a measurement from C14 (Cavity 14 being the Lock-up Solenoid) of the connector and document that reading.

    Let you know more as I find it...

    tja
    Last edited by tja; 06-27-2009 at 02:03 PM.
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  7. #7

    Default Think I got it!!!

    Wow!

    So, I disconnected the TCU and took it for a 3 mile ride...manually shifting the gears up and down (very carefully at the correct RPM). All seemed fine (obviously the torque converter did not lock at 43 MPH).

    So, when I got home for giggles I took the Ohmmeter at the already disconnected TCU connector (with both battery cables connected). The following are the readings:

    11 Ohms S1
    11.2 Ohms S2
    Open S3 ===> Under operating temperature, this solenoid opened up!

    I think this is why once one day this last week when it was cool in the morning that the Torque Converter locked up for a couple of miles then randomly disengaged. It is bad and under thermal stress opens up completely.

    So I will order a Lock-up Solenoid (not from a dealer) and install it...

    Let you know what the final outcome is...

    NOTE: There is still the possibility that the wire going to the S3 Lock-up solenoid could have a problem...we will see.

    thanks!

    tja
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  8. #8
    Registered Rally Fan's Avatar
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    Here is a link to an ATSG manual for the AW4 transmission. It will showw the location of the solenoids and test procedures.
    http://www.scribd.com/doc/2922823/AW4-manual1

    P0700 code is the Transmission Control System.
    P0743 code is Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid/Trans Relay Circuit.
    '97 XJ Sport. Moss Green, 2Dr. 2wd, AW4, 8.25, Factory tow pkg.
    Mods: Bilstein shocks, General Grabber AT2's 255/70x15,Crown s/s brake lines,Jacobs wires,K&N,Thorley header, 2.25in down pipe, Carsound cat and Dyno Max cat back. Headlight harness,alternator wiring upgrade and Sony audio.

  9. #9

    Arrow Looking for advice...

    I am fairly confident that the S3 lock-up solenoid is at fault...

    I found one on the internet for $70.64 + $12.00 shipping...

    http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/97425.html

    but,

    ...there is a guy here 5 miles away selling a whole AW-4 for $50. I could throw an Ohmmeter on the solenoids to test them...and can pull all of the solenoids, wires, the NSS switch and overhaul it, and probably something else...

    So...what would you do?
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  10. #10
    A Little Man
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    Having a whole spare tranny. Could be nice if for some reason it wasn't the solenoid. But sounds like you did a good job with your diag.
    00-XJ-30's
    95-YJ-35's-locked F/R
    93-ZJ-31's-OME

  11. #11

    Exclamation What to do...

    So here is the main question...I realize that the Torgue Converter is not engaging...so at 55 MPH I am pulling ~ 2100 RPM verses 1750 RPM...my mileage is suffering slightly...but can it hurt anything to drive it like this for a week or so until I get my ducks in order?


    Thanks in advance!

    tja
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  12. #12
    A Little Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by tja View Post
    So here is the main question...I realize that the Torgue Converter is not engaging...so at 55 MPH I am pulling ~ 2100 RPM verses 1750 RPM...my mileage is suffering slightly...but can it hurt anything to drive it like this for a week or so until I get my ducks in order?


    Thanks in advance!

    tja
    I believe there is a higher risk of over heating your trans. But more so if it is slipping that just not working at all.
    00-XJ-30's
    95-YJ-35's-locked F/R
    93-ZJ-31's-OME

  13. #13

    Icon924 Decision...

    So, I went ahead and bought the AW-4 for $50. Took the meter and all of the solenoids (S1, S3 and S3) read ~ 13 Ohms. Needs a de-greasing...but all is good. I got it home and pulled the pan off. Much easier than I expected (10 mm on the cordless drill...and whammo). Popped it off, and the solenoids are right there. Pulled the S3 out, cleaned it up a bit and sprayed electrical cleaner thru it...measures 13 Ohms.

    I have to wait a couple of days until I can put the XJ up on the ramps...

    One more question...as I was ripping into the used AW-4 for the solenoid, I began to ponder..."I wonder if this thing works?" Can I take it somewhere and have it tested...or do you have to install it into a vehicle and give it a go? Worst case is I pull the wires, other solenoids and the NSS switch...clean them up and use them on a rainy day or give them away...

    more later...

    tja
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  14. #14
    Registered saudade's Avatar
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    The NSS alone is worth $50. The solenoids are a bonus. Maybe keep the pan and speed sensor. Not sure you can test them off the car but you can certainly call of few trans shops.

    Was it out of a 2 or 4wd?
    Dad's Taxi:
    '88 XJ Laredo (Dad's Taxi) - 190K and going strong.
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  15. #15

    Icon314 Testing...looks good...

    Ok...thru the XJ up on the ramps at 4:30 pm.

    - Drained the tranny fluid (while it was good and hot).
    - Removed all of the bolts on the tranny pan.
    - Popped it loose...got baptised in tranny fluid!
    - Disconnected the tranny fluid dipstick (bolt located to the left of the oil filter) and finagled it down...(got baptised AGAIN...)
    - I removed the bolt holding the solenoid (the one on the right in the picture)

    original.jpg


    Then I noticed...the two solenoids are very different in size....I removed the filter from the AW-4 I bought and the one in my XJ, and on the valve body of the one I bought (underneath where the filter would cover up) there was a number stamped into the metal reading
    "8931 12". On the one in my XJ it read "8931 42". Now, the valve bodies looked very similar...but had a couple of differences. One was how the wiring was routed...not to mention the sizes of the solenoids. I will further research this...

    differences.jpg

    I pondered for a while...then realized that the bigger one is the type available to purchase. So I installed it and ran the ohmmeter across it and it looked good.

    new.jpg

    I cleaned the old RTV/Gasket off of the pan and the bottom of the tranny, replaced the filter...put the pan on with the rubber gasket(no RTV)...added three quarts of tranny fluid in there...started it up...with the brake on, ran it thru all of the gears at an idle.

    At 7 pm I took it for a spin. At 43 MPH the TC kicked in!

    Summary. On a difficulty scale from 1 to 10, it was a 6. If you have ramps to throw the XJ up on, and 2.5 hours free, you can do it. Be prepared to literally get baptized in tranny fluid (the first time you do it anyway), but I considered it Man/XJ bonding. The most difficult thing to figure out...which really was not that bad, was when you unbolt the transmission dipstick tube, trying to finagle the transmission pan down far enough to actually do the job. If I had to do it again, I am certain I could do it in ~ 1.5 hours.


    Total cost thus far:
    $50 for the used tranny (or $70 for the solenoid off of the internet)
    $24 for the rubber gasket/tranny filter at Salvo's
    $16 in Pennzoil Transmission Fluid (just under 4 quarts...still monitoring...)
    ...2.5 hours of getting to know your XJ...

    ...sure beats the dealer quote of $432 (thieves I say!)...and the satisfaction of knowing you did it...


    Will update in a couple of days with a final status...I have driven it ~ 60 mile so far and all is good.
    It is going to be a hot one tommorow...that is the real test!

    Thanks!

    tja
    Last edited by tja; 07-06-2009 at 07:52 AM. Reason: update valve body information
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  16. #16
    A Little Man
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    Right on.
    00-XJ-30's
    95-YJ-35's-locked F/R
    93-ZJ-31's-OME

  17. #17

    Thumbs up Fixed!

    Well, I have driven it ~ 250 miles and no check engine light and the TC engages at 43 MPH every time.

    good stuff!
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  18. #18
    Registered
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    Awesome troubleshooting. I just got the CEL this evening. Pulled the codes and had P0700, P0736, and P0841. Not daring enough to try this myself so taking to the dealer under 7/70 warranty!
    2012 JK Unlimited Rubicon - Black on Saddle Leather

    2005 WK Limited 5.7L HEMI - 2" Rough Country Lift, LT245/75/17 Big-O A/Ts, Bilstein HD shocks in all four corners, 4xGuard Brush Guard with Grill Hoop, Saguaro 4XComponents antenna mount, Stillen Metal Matrix pads and rotors, Midland 1001Z CB radio with 3ft Firefly antenna, 4XGuard 12-bolt differential guard

    1998 ZJ Limited 5.2L - Submerged and dead!

  19. #19

    Smile ...

    ...well, it is awesome to look back and say I did it...but if I had a warranty I would have rolled that bad boy right up to the shop!

    ...hey...but if you need parts, let me know...I have an AW-4 sitting in my shed (minus a lock-up solenoid)...rather have it going to use than taking up space! I believe it is newer than the one in my 97 XJ ...
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  20. #20

    Default

    I just bought my Jeep on Saturday - AS IS NO WARRANTY.

    CEL came on and pulled the P0743.


    This is a great thread - just what I needed to find.




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