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Thread: Door hinge bushings

  1. #21
    Registered FZMax's Avatar
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    The hinge pin diameter is .372, the ID of the bushing is .375, the ID of the hinge is .456. You could buy a package of 5 - 3/8 x 1/2 bushings from McMaster Carr <PM 6389K445> for a whopping $3.62 in nylon, MDS filled for $1.40 each <6294K439> or UHMW for $7.69 each <57785K211>.

    Make an arbor with a 3/8 bolt, pair of washers and a nut, chuck it up in a drill press and use a file or sandpaper to bring the OD down to .456 If you have access to a lathe, it would be that much easier.

    The hinge is a little longer but I didn't see any longer bushings available. Maybe there is another vendor, but if you have them made you're not likely to do much better than that $60, especially out of Delrin. If someone does find them please post up, mine are getting pretty beat.

  2. #22
    Registered Tang419's Avatar
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    2004 TJ Rubicon
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  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tang419 View Post

    Looks like some inovative person answered the need. I ordered 4 sets.
    97 TJ 4.0 AUTO, 3 INCH BDS, 33 INCH BFG, MAGNAFLOW CAT AND MBRP SS CAT BACK.

  4. #24
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    Default Door bushings

    Just wondering has anyone come up with a good replacement door hinge bushing for a resonable price? I need to buy a set.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  5. #25
    Registered Tang419's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eggy View Post
    Just wondering has anyone come up with a good replacement door hinge bushing for a resonable price? I need to buy a set.
    The same link I posted before is still good http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3838&viewitem=
    2004 TJ Rubicon
    4" Superlift w/RC 2.2 Shocks
    Cragar V5's with 33x12.50 MTR's
    Discos and a JKS 1.25" BL

    www.vanc4x4.net

  6. #26
    Spelling&Grammar-Lern It JeffBowser's Avatar
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    Those aren't bushings.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tang419 View Post
    The same link I posted before is still good http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3838&viewitem=
    ----------------
    97 Sahara,original owner. 285/70/R17 on an OME kit + 1"bl. 4.56, Truetrac F/R + other assorted crap.

  7. #27
    Registered Tang419's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffBowser View Post
    Those aren't bushings.
    and I quote
    Brand New Hinge Pin and Bushing Kit
    The metal round things arent nuts to go on the bottom, those are the bushings.

    Read the description

    NEW HINGE PIN AND BUSHINGS

    ***100% MONEY BACK GUARANTEE***



    Brand New Hinge Pin and Bushing Kit for 1994-1998 Jeep Wrangler (See Below.) Includes 2 pins and bushings as shown. If your door is sagging, not closing properly, and making a lot of wind noise, this may be what you need. The bushings in these vehicles tend to crack and break off, shifting your door out of alignment. Save your hinges and striker bolts by replacing the pin and bushings.

    OE#: 55176366, 55176367, 55176368, 55176369, 6504417


    Have any questions? Not sure if this is what you need? Need something else? Email us! We carry a large line of auto parts. We probably have what you need!
    2004 TJ Rubicon
    4" Superlift w/RC 2.2 Shocks
    Cragar V5's with 33x12.50 MTR's
    Discos and a JKS 1.25" BL

    www.vanc4x4.net

  8. #28
    Spelling&Grammar-Lern It JeffBowser's Avatar
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    I stand corrected, but they look brass. I don't know about you, but I don't really want my doors swinging around on brass. I'll stick with these: http://www.magnitude-engineering.com/products.html
    ----------------
    97 Sahara,original owner. 285/70/R17 on an OME kit + 1"bl. 4.56, Truetrac F/R + other assorted crap.

  9. #29
    Registered paroxysym's Avatar
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    2007.5 WK Laredo 4.7
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  10. #30
    Registered Tang419's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffBowser View Post
    I stand corrected, but they look brass. I don't know about you, but I don't really want my doors swinging around on brass. I'll stick with these: http://www.magnitude-engineering.com/products.html
    With what I put my Jeep through, I have bigger worries than what my doors are swinging on...lol
    2004 TJ Rubicon
    4" Superlift w/RC 2.2 Shocks
    Cragar V5's with 33x12.50 MTR's
    Discos and a JKS 1.25" BL

    www.vanc4x4.net

  11. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffBowser View Post
    I stand corrected, but they look brass. I don't know about you, but I don't really want my doors swinging around on brass. I'll stick with these: http://www.magnitude-engineering.com/products.html
    You do know that the single most popular and correct use of brass and bronze metal is in bushings and bearings, right?
    If you buy for the warranty, buy two. You're gonna need them because warranties don't get you home.

  12. #32
    Spelling&Grammar-Lern It JeffBowser's Avatar
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    Correct, but not in this particular design. Factory comes with a non-metallic bearing surface.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
    You do know that the single most popular and correct use of brass and bronze metal is in bushings and bearings, right?
    ----------------
    97 Sahara,original owner. 285/70/R17 on an OME kit + 1"bl. 4.56, Truetrac F/R + other assorted crap.

  13. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffBowser View Post
    Correct, but not in this particular design. Factory comes with a non-metallic bearing surface.
    Really? The ones I've removed appeared to be some rolled up mesh coated with something that isn't readily identifiable as plastic. I've destroyed a few hinges on the rocks and that mesh sleeve never survives.

    What is it covered with?
    If you buy for the warranty, buy two. You're gonna need them because warranties don't get you home.

  14. #34
    Spelling&Grammar-Lern It JeffBowser's Avatar
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    I can't really say, I'm certainly not a mechanic on par with you in the slightest. However, my observations on my 97 shows that whatever it is on mine, it is wearing down and bits of fiber like pieces shed off periodically.
    ----------------
    97 Sahara,original owner. 285/70/R17 on an OME kit + 1"bl. 4.56, Truetrac F/R + other assorted crap.

  15. #35

    Default Delrin vs Brass Bushings

    The Magnitude Engineering bushings were designed using an engineering grade thermoplastic polymer (acetal; more commonly known as Delrin) to provide superior performance over brass in two key areas:

    1) Wear - When used with steel pins, acetal wears better than brass without requiring lubrication

    2) Corrosion resistance and prevention - Acetal does not oxidize, is an electrical insulator, and does not promote corrosion unlike brass. The galvanic potential created when brass bushings are used in close proximity to uncoated steel (such as any minor nick or scratch in a painted hinge, door, or body panel) accelerates corrosion, particularly in the presence of moisture.

  16. #36

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    I bought mine from here :

    http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product...umber=11202.07

    Helps ?
    03 Shale Green 4 SPD auto Rubicon :

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  17. #37
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    black magic brake carries them now too, in black delrin


    http://info.blackmagicbrakes.com/Jeep_Co-Op.php

  18. #38
    Spelling&Grammar-Lern It JeffBowser's Avatar
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    Nice, thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by lumpy85 View Post
    black magic brake carries them now too, in black delrin


    http://info.blackmagicbrakes.com/Jeep_Co-Op.php
    ----------------
    97 Sahara,original owner. 285/70/R17 on an OME kit + 1"bl. 4.56, Truetrac F/R + other assorted crap.

  19. #39
    Registered Otto Man's Avatar
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    I bought the delrin ones in white from Magnitude. They work great. I have one door done. Getting the old bushings out sucks! Any tips on removing the old ones?

    That $25 price is a great deal for the black ones if they are of the same quality.
    2003 TJ Sport, 42RLE Auto, 4.0L, Heated Seats, 3.5" Rancho Short Arm, RS9000XL Shocks, 33x12.5R15 DuraTrac on Black Painted Canyons, 1.5" Wheel Spacers, Smittybuilt Classic Rear Bumper and Tire Carrier, Speedo Corrected, Rustys Tranny/Engine Skid, Cherry Bomb Cat Back Exhaust
    http://www.jpmagazine.com/jeepshots/...ots/index.html

  20. #40
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    in my research the black delrin should hold up better, its mor UV stable, so its less likely to chalk and degrade. do a quick search on the difference in delrin, you can learn quite a bit in a short time.


    i found it easiest to use a sharp edge punch to get on teh lip of the factory door bushing, I may make a few "punches" that are the correct size for this,

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