Duplicolor Truck Bed Liner
Jack the vehicle up on whichever side you're going to do first, remove the wheel. Remove the plastic inner fender. Unscrew the sensor that sits on the engine side of the pinch weld (if you have one there) and tuck it into the hole next to it to prevent any damage to it.
The Pinch Weld and Sensor next to it.
Use the black Sharpie and mark every inch or so along the pinch weld as guides for cutting. You can see in the picture how far down, and how far up I went.
Once you have your marks, use the saw zall and cut the marks (this makes bending the pinch weld easier). In the picture it might be hard to see the cuts on the black marks, but they are there.
After you've cut all the marks, we used a wrench to fold over the little individual pieces to make hammering them down easier.
After you bend them over with the wrench use the hammer to make them as flush to the metal as possible. We didn't have a sledgehammer available, so we used a standard sized 'house' hammer.
This step I don't have any pictures for because it's a pretty simple step. Tape off everything you don't want coated with the truck bed liner, which includes the paint, and the hubs/brakes. Spray a coat of the Duplicolor truck bed liner over the bent pinch weld and the area around it. You can follow the directions on drying time on the can. I did three heavy coats.
While that was drying we marked the plastic liner with the black Sharpie a guideline to follow with the saw zall. I didn't take a picture of this step, as you can decide where and how much you want to cut off your own liner.
Screw the sensor back on (if you have one).
After the plastic liner has been cut to your desired area you can put it back on the vehicle, but make sure your bed liner area is dry, you don't want to rub any of that coating off the exposed and cut metal.
With the plastic liner installed, we came across the problem of part of the liner still sticking up and causing rubbing at full lock. Our solution was to drill a small pilot hole through and behind the plastic liner, and then screw down the liner to the metal behind it, so it would sit flush against the body. You might be able to see the screw in the pictures below.
Every one has dealt with the plastic liner differently it seems. It didn't look bad cut, but we decided to patch it up. We used Ultra-Set Advanced (you can get this at Home Depot for about 22 dollars a tube) and a putty knife. The membrane dries hard, but still somewhat flexible to prevent it from cracking or breaking if something hits it, and it's also waterproof.
First, you'll need to put some duct tape down to cover the pinch weld, this is also what the Ultra-Set will adhere to in order to make an even surface over the pinch weld.
Next, you take the putty knife and smooth (as best as you can) the membrane over the taped area and a little past the tape.
Yes, it's white. You need to let the Ultra-Set dry. I let it dry over night, and the next day I used the Duplicolor truck bed liner and sprayed over the Ultra-Set and the area around it.
Because it's so hard to see...or not see...the end result in the picture without the flash, I also took one with the flash. The bed liner is still wet so it looks like you can see the Ultra-Set beneath it, but you can't, it's just the wet paint reflecting from the flash of the camera.
With the usual road dirt and grime on the liner and patched area you can barely tell anything was done to it. I'll have to try to get a better daylight picture to post.
Hope this helps anyone who might be thinking about bending over their pinch welds, or at least gives them new ideas!