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Thread: Replacing rubber transmission cooler line?

  1. #1

    Icon313 Replacing rubber transmission cooler line?

    Has anyone replaced the transmission cooler line that has the rubber portion? The entire line bolts to the top of the radiator and has a rubber segment near the bottom of the radiator that looks like it should be replaceable. Is this something that I should attempt, or is it best left to a transmission specialist or professional mechanic. Any information on the replacement of the line would be appreciated. Mine on my 2003 Grand Cherokee Laredo QTII (4.0L) is leaking.

  2. #2

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    The rubber portion is crimped on. You can get a handheld crimping tool to duplicate the crimps, but expect to pay a couple of hundred dollars for it.

    The "right" way is to just get a complete new cooler line from the dealer or have a shop fab one for you, and you could install it yourself with normal hand tools.

    If you want a cheap fix that will work almost as well, find out where the rubber hose is damaged, cut the damaged part off, then use a couple of brass hose barb fittings screwed together, and clamp them to the existing hose using worm-gear style hose clamps.

  3. #3
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    another option you could do is cut the tube, get a 37 degree tube ing flare tool, flare it with a tube nut and put it to a -AN fittings with stell bradied lines, on my race car thats all i will ever use for trans lines, im not sure how much a jeep trans make pressure wise, but my th-350 make almost 300psi on the cooler in reverse, im not trusting rubber hose and worm clamps. the steel bradied stuff with the fittings are the way to go, and the fitting are all swivel leakfree,



    or you could go compression, but i don't know how well they hold up to pressure. they are summit number SUM-2200075

    Checkout cart shown for just the fittings you would need, this is saying that the cooler lines are 3/8's you have to check coller line size to get the right tubenuts and sleves.

    Part # Item Price Qty Line Total Delete

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    ````~~~~SUM-2200075 Fitting, Hose End, Tube Adapter, Straight, Female -6 AN Hose to 3/8 in. Tubing, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each $6.95 $27.80 qty4 ~~~~~~~~~This could relace the tube nuts and sleves but i would do the tube nut sleeve with a flare, way more durable.

    SUM-220632 Fitting, Coupler, Straight, Male -6 AN to Male -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Each $2.95 $11.80 qty4

    SUM-220633-2 Fitting, Tube Nuts, -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Pair $1.69 $3.38 qty 2

    SUM-220634-2 Tube Sleeves, -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Pair $1.50 $6.00 qty 2

    SUM-220690 Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue Anodized, Each $4.88 $19.52 qty 4

    SUM-230606 Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -6 AN, 6 ft. Length, Each $24.95 $24.95 qty 1

    SUM-900311 Flare Tool, Single, 37 Degree Flare, Tube Sizes 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2 in., Kit $29.95 $29.95


    Select All

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    If you have deleted any items from your cart or changed any quantities, please press the update button. Sub Total: $123.40

    1970 Nova Tubbed
    Caged, 350, Th-350
    Dynamic Converter 3.73 gears

    96 JGC ZJ stock now not for long.
    4.0 42re np242 3.73 tow pak
    31x10.50x15 and some do da's

  4. #4

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    Do you have to drain the transmission pan? Will it drain anyway when you remove the line from the transmission? Does the end of the rubber hose nearest the radiator connection just slip over the metal end and is sealed with a clamp? It looks like you could leave the metal part of the line that is connected to the radiator on and slip and clamp the new line over the existing front metal line. The rest of the line (rubber and then metal to the transmission) would be replaced? Is this correct? Thanks.

  5. #5

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    One more thing. Thanks, MiniTubbedNova. You put in some work on your reply.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by balingwire View Post
    Has anyone replaced the transmission cooler line that has the rubber portion? The entire line bolts to the top of the radiator and has a rubber segment near the bottom of the radiator that looks like it should be replaceable. Is this something that I should attempt, or is it best left to a transmission specialist or professional mechanic. Any information on the replacement of the line would be appreciated. Mine on my 2003 Grand Cherokee Laredo QTII (4.0L) is leaking.
    My 03 just had clamps on both ends of both rubber lines. I do nothink they are crimped on.
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    the plus side of steel braided is abrasion restitance, it wount chafe, and when the fittings are done right they dont leak, can swivel and believe it or not -AN fittings are going to become more and morepopular in the future. and they are reusable. i trust my life on those lines not to blow off when i at the big end at 115 and put me in the wall, i would more then trust them to not end the ife of trans.

    one question tho how do the trans cooler lines go into cooler, becasue -AN have all types of fiitings and adapters, its really simple to work with i use them all the time.

    1970 Nova Tubbed
    Caged, 350, Th-350
    Dynamic Converter 3.73 gears

    96 JGC ZJ stock now not for long.
    4.0 42re np242 3.73 tow pak
    31x10.50x15 and some do da's

  8. #8
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    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
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    and no you dont have to drain pan, some will come out of lines but since pump isn't running it woun't be a ton.

    1970 Nova Tubbed
    Caged, 350, Th-350
    Dynamic Converter 3.73 gears

    96 JGC ZJ stock now not for long.
    4.0 42re np242 3.73 tow pak
    31x10.50x15 and some do da's

  9. #9

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    Just an update. This was the pressure line. Last night, I removed the clamp on one side of the rubber line (toward front of WJ, attaches to metal line going to cooler), screwed out the check ball fitting from the metal cooler line going back to the transmission. Once check valve and rubber hose were off, took off the clamp holding the rubber hose to the check valve, then cleaned up and checked check valve - it was fine - and replaced the rubber hose with 3/8" transmission cooler hose, double-clamped hose to check valve. Teflon-taped threads of check valve, screwed back into metal cooler line, then double-clamped other end of rubber hose to metal cooler line going to radiator. Stopped the leak. Only lost about an ounce of fluid during the repair. I worried way too much about this.

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