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Thread: Broken Bolts in valve cover and thermostat housing

  1. #1

    Icon314 Broken Bolts in valve cover and thermostat housing

    Well. putting on my new valve cover gasket and thermostat+gasket.
    Of course.... 3 of the bolts in the valve cover snapped. hopping i can make my way with those gone untill i can afford and get the bolts out of the block.

    but now. the top bolt in the housing snapped off. i can get vice grips on it.. enough room. But. of course now vice grips in my house. hah

    so if i run without the bols in the valve cover will it run fine?

  2. #2
    Registered Jerverso's Avatar
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    How far do you plan on driving. My guess is that you will leak some oil that will turn to smoke when it comes in contact with hot engine parts. Keep an eye on your oil level.

  3. #3

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    hoping that i coult just wing it and keep going. think i could fill the holes with gasket sealer? the one in the back that snapped will be to hard to get the bolt out of the block. i think...

  4. #4

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    i had the same issue with thermostat housing and it stuck out enough to get a cutoff wheel in there to make a slot heat it up red hot and used a flat head and it backed right out... or you could just drill what you can reach out.... i left the thermostat bolt out for a while and whouldnt say it even close to a good idea

  5. #5
    Registered saudade's Avatar
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    Take the cover back off. Chances are the broken pieces will turn right out unless you RTV'd them in.

    If you snapped them because you overtightened them, then your gaskets gonna leak like crazy anyway from having crushed the gasket so you'll need to replace it.
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  6. #6

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    ok well i wont drive weithout the thermostat bolts. haha

    they snapped without me barely tightening them. but im npretty sure all the valve cover ones left me absolutely no grip. so i have to find a way to pull them out.
    i have no clue how to heat the up and drill them like i hear about. but i also hear hardware stores carry drill sets that just back them out?

    thanks for the help so far!!

  7. #7

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    drilling them out is really simple as it sounds you start off will a really small bit, use a center punch to help keep it from moving when you start it off and make sure your going straight... then go in steps bigger till your really close to the threads then i like to use someing with a hammer to fold the rest in on itself to keep from hurting the threads. when drilling use slower speeds to no heat up the bolt while drilling... you can by some reverse cut drill bits or the exstractors but the exstractors are hardened steel so dont force them or theyll break and you wont be happy to say the least...

  8. #8
    Registered Jerverso's Avatar
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    The best way I have found to remove sheared bolts is with a dremel tool( easier than a drill to control) w/metal cutting bit (wont break as easy as a drill bit) and a set of easy outs. Good luck let us know how it goes


    WTF are easy outs http://www.tools-plus.com/hanson-53535.html

    The dremel bit I use
    http://www.dremel.com/enus/Attachmen...l.aspx?pid=114

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    FYI those bolts are in the block- they are on the head- and worse comes to worse you can take the head off to do this-

  10. #10

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    sweet thanks for the help!
    i'll get those bolts out later.
    i might try the dremel way

    for now .. The therm housing is on. 1 bolt still broken. STACKED it with gasket sealer around the whole housing. Holds up great. And the valve cover gasket was tightened down enough by the un broken bolts to wear those arent a problem ))

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    Quote Originally Posted by MM-Mike View Post
    sweet thanks for the help!
    i'll get those bolts out later.
    i might try the dremel way

    for now .. The therm housing is on. 1 bolt still broken. STACKED it with gasket sealer around the whole housing. Holds up great. And the valve cover gasket was tightened down enough by the un broken bolts to wear those arent a problem ))

    i cant image the thermo housing holding the coolant in with only 1 bolt. have you run it long enough toget hot and build up pressure?

  12. #12

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    ^^^ hes right, thats what i was talkin about when i broke one of mine... i ran it like that for a little bit and it WILL cause your housing it break in half... im as sure as i am cuz im not the first its happened to. FYI

  13. #13

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    oh yeah. the new thermo was a 160 degree one. so it only goes up to half temp even when 4wheelin. But its weird... the small one broke and maybe left a little tread connecting the housing and block. cuz it leaked but not horrible. Filled alot of sealer on there. and stop leaking.
    ?

    now my concern though is when im done driving and turn it off. the engine does a little tink or click noise. not loud. but does it for 5 minutes probably at like 20 second intervals. should i be concerned on that or not?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MM-Mike View Post
    oh yeah. the new thermo was a 160 degree one. so it only goes up to half temp even when 4wheelin. But its weird... the small one broke and maybe left a little tread connecting the housing and block. cuz it leaked but not horrible. Filled alot of sealer on there. and stop leaking.
    ?

    now my concern though is when im done driving and turn it off. the engine does a little tink or click noise. not loud. but does it for 5 minutes probably at like 20 second intervals. should i be concerned on that or not?

    most cars/trucks/machinery when hot make that sound, its just cooling down and what you are hearing is some pieces of metal(usually exhaust components and heat shields) contracting.

    you are taking a big risk of getting stuck somewhere with having the thermo housing like that, especially out fourwheeling. hopefully you plan on fixing this soon as a 160 thermo is not a good idea and does put excessive wear on the internal parts of the engine.

  15. #15

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    ah. thanks alot

    yeah i asked around about the 160 and no one knew. so whatever figured i'd give it a shot. I WILL fix the problem once and for all when i put in a new thermostat.
    recommended temp?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MM-Mike View Post
    ah. thanks alot

    yeah i asked around about the 160 and no one knew. so whatever figured i'd give it a shot. I WILL fix the problem once and for all when i put in a new thermostat.
    recommended temp?
    195*

  17. #17
    Registered Markos's Avatar
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    Go to sears and buy an extractor kit ($18). You need to drill a small hold in the bolt using the bits provided. The extractor bites into the hole when you turn it counter-clockwise, allowing the bolt to come out. You don't need to increase the hole size as you go. Just use the small bit and the small extractor. The valve cover bolts will have some oil on the threads already, and should come out without issue.

    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00966196000P

    When you install new bolts, read up on the torque specs. It's probably measured in inch pounds. If you don't have a torque wrench, don't use anything larger than a 1/4 drive socket wrench to install the cover. There is no reason to go overboard on the valve cover. In fact, doing so may increase the chance of leakage.
    '99 XJ Classic -- Almost Stock

  18. #18
    Registered saudade's Avatar
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    Assuming your cooling system is working properly, a 160* thermo will run too cold once the outside temps drop.

    I still run the closed system on my mine and on a 95* day, running on the highway, with the AC on, my temps sits right around 195 (my thermo setting). At idle or stuck in traffic, it goes to about 210ish. If the AC is off, my fan kicks on and keeps it around 210 or less.

    This is the extractor set I have.

    http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
    Dad's Taxi:
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    2wd, K&N filter in stock airbox, Ford Injectors, No other mods

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    Jeeps are pretty picky about what temp they run- I would stick with the 195

  20. #20

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    ah... 195. thanks alot. i guess its time to get that extractor set and put that thermo in. starting to get cold here in reno.

    thanks for the help from all of you!

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