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Thread: TF999 Shifter Seal ?

  1. #1
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    Default TF999 Shifter Seal ?

    Anybody know how to replace the shifter seal on the auto tranny tf999.

    Mine is leaking around the shifter rod, so I assume there is a seal there that needs replacement.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by vol96 View Post
    Anybody know how to replace the shifter seal on the auto tranny tf999.

    Mine is leaking around the shifter rod, so I assume there is a seal there that needs replacement.

    there is a seal, i got mine from advanced auto parts after looking around in their computer for a bit

    replacing it is easy, i just used a small screwdriver to pry it out around the edges until it popped out....be careful though because when the seal came out the shaft must've lifted up too far which caused the internal linkage to pop out of its gate...

    racked my brain trying to figure out why it would only have park and sometimes reverse, lol i dropped the pan and tapped it back in, after that it was back to normal


    I think the seal was listed as a selector shaft seal or something like that
    jeepin on a 18 y/o's budget....i work for gas, the jeeps, and the g/f habit...that order :zbunny:

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    The above method works, or you can drop the pan, and then drop the valvebody. Then you can drive the seal out from the inside and new one in without the shift-shaft in place. Cost of the seal is about $7.

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    So, it can be replaced from the outside (carefully so as not to dislodge the linkage out of its gate)? And it can be replaced by dropping the pan, filter, and valve body.

    Thanks for the input guys.

    First I'l try to do it from the outside. If I screw up the linkage, I'l then drop the pan.

  5. #5

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    Be careful to not mar the sealing surface on the shaft.
    There are hooks made just for this job.



    Here's one listing on the 'net: http://www.amazon.com/8in-O-Ring-Sea.../dp/B000FL41XQ
    A good parts house or tool supply should have one in stock.

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    I just did mine. I ended up dropping the pan and valve body and tapping it up from underneath. If you go that route then put the shifter in L1 to expose the e-clip on a shaft that connects to the top of the valve body and ease it straight down. The new seal is a tight fit so put it in the freezer for a while. Adjust your rear band while you're in there, too. You might need to adjust your shifter after you bolt your valve body back up. I also put a new seal on the neutral safety switch while it was open.
    Now, 84 CJ7 Laredo, 258, weber 38, 3.73's, Alloy 1pc., AuburnGear LS, hei/tfi, 2.5" BDS, 3/4" shackles, 31x10.5 F'stone Dest. M/T's
    Long ago, 81 CJ7, 304

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    143hc - I've not removed the valve body before and Haynes doesnt cover it. Does it have ball bearings that I need to be concerned about dislodging? Is there a gasket on the valve body? Any other tips you can share?

    I used an inch pound torque wrench to adjust rear band last time I changed the filter but noticed no change in how the trans shifted. Should I re-adjust to the high side of the torque range or low side? Also, what type of change in shifting should I notice....assuming it needed adjustment.

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    Nothing will fall out. Remove all the hardware on top (the shifter linkage and stuff), and the neutral safety switch. The nss is spring loaded against the bellcrank on the inside. Then on the inside, the e-clip, then the 10 bolts and ease it straight down. Get ready to get alot of atf on your arm! There is a spring and accumulator (?) that sit on top of the valve body. Those are just sitting on top and can fall off so careful. You can see the shifter bellcrank on top of the valvebody, there is a ball and spring that the bellcrank shifts against.
    My bellcrank would move up and down just a little, just enough that the ball and spring would slip out so I had to be careful putting it back together.
    I got a long flathead and carefully tapped the old seal out.
    I googled tf 999 and finally found a couple little pics that showed the valvebody, enough to work by.
    When I bolted it all back up, the column showed P but it was in R so I had to adjust the linkage so they matched.
    Now, 84 CJ7 Laredo, 258, weber 38, 3.73's, Alloy 1pc., AuburnGear LS, hei/tfi, 2.5" BDS, 3/4" shackles, 31x10.5 F'stone Dest. M/T's
    Long ago, 81 CJ7, 304

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    Thanks for the input. I couldnt find any pics by googling but I'l keep trying.

  10. #10
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    Now, 84 CJ7 Laredo, 258, weber 38, 3.73's, Alloy 1pc., AuburnGear LS, hei/tfi, 2.5" BDS, 3/4" shackles, 31x10.5 F'stone Dest. M/T's
    Long ago, 81 CJ7, 304

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    got it ......Thanks

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