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Thread: which transgo kit? TFOD-HD2 or TFOD-Jr

  1. #1

    Default which transgo kit? TFOD-HD2 or TFOD-Jr

    which transgo kit? TFOD-HD2 or TFOD-Jr

    Anyone use either kit?

    Heard a lot of horror stories on the TFOD-HD2 kit about drilling into the Valve body and how vague the instructions are. will the TFOD -Jr kit give a firm shift without the drilling?

    Not really interested in being able to downshift at any speed just looking for firmer shifts. Price difference on the kits are only $50 so it is not so much a matter of cost as most of the people who said they installed the TFOD-HD-2 kit also said they skipped a lot of the procedures as they where either to hard or did not have the tools.

    will the TFOD-JR kit suffice?

  2. #2
    Registered Glockman19's Avatar
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    I have the TFOD-HD2 and it wasn't that difficult to install. I agree that the instructions are rather vague and the illustrations aren't that helpful but I used the FSM and it helped to fill in the gaps. I like it and I also installed the other items I got from Wayne at APS in the "super shift kit" at the same time. If I had to do it again I wouldn't do anything different but I'm not afraid of tearing into something for lack of info or tools. As for the "Jr." kit, I remember looking into it and it it seemed rather "lightweight". I say go for the HD2 kit, and if you haven't already done it, add a drain plug and get the Mopar reusable pan gasket and adjust the bands while your at it.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]'97 ZJ 5.2 UpCountry, Ported Kegger, KRC 2.02 R/T Heads, KRC 210X Cam, Comp 1.6 RR, 2" Teraflex BB, BGF 31-10.50 AT KO's, Optima Red Top, Edelbrock IAS, JKS Adj Frt Trackbar, OME SD40, PPH/Leach Headers and Kolak 3" Exhaust with Flowmaster 70, K&N FIPK II, CNC 50mm TB, Mopar Perf PCM, APS Super Shift Kit, TrueTrac LSD up Front,Trac-Lok in rear, 4.56's.

    '04 Dakota Quad Cab, 4.7 with 5spd auto, Line-X bedliner, 3.92 with LSD and Towing Pkg, Extang Tuff Tonno.

  3. #3

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    Define FSM? is that a video? all the kits i looked into did not come with a video.

    I intended to add a drain plug while the pan was down but was not aware anyone made a reusable rubber gasket.

    Will make sure I install one as a lot of the people said they had to drop the pan multiple times to adjust the kit. They all complained about how much the fluid cost them and said if they were to do it again they would have purchased a valve body pre modified.

    By adding a drain plug and reusable gasket all that would be affected is time.

    I have read the instructions for the HD2 kit online and exactly where to drill the holes was not made clear. Also heard that calling Transgo for tech support was a 3-4 hour ordeal waiting.

    I am a Mechanic by trade and tearing into something does not bother me a bit as long as I have done it before or I have some type of reference. As I said I already read the transgo instructions and by experience I would have to say the detail is somewhat piss poor.

  4. #4
    wine taster kjk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Griffon327 View Post
    They all complained about how much the fluid cost them and said if they were to do it again they would have purchased a valve body pre modified.
    That is definitely the way I would go if I was to do it over again. I'm glad I did the install myself (TFOD-HD2) because I learned a lot but I must have been in that trans literally 25 times. I wanted it just right as far as shift rpm at part throttle and WOT and feel. What a PITA. But finally it's...:jammin:
    5.9 ZJ SCT tuned PCM/ KJK CAI/ Thorley headers with 3" Magnaflow cat and muffler/ Modded kegger/ TransGo shift kit/ Vanco brake kit/ Braided steel brake lines/ Mopar cupholder insert!

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    Registered Moparboy72's Avatar
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    I have yet to install my kit...

    I called Wayne at APS and bought my HD shift kit from him; he and I talked about how I use my Jeep and what I wanted to get out of the the kit. He supplied a supplemental sheet in order to specify exact drill sizes to provide the "right" shift (to complement exsisting mods). I also went and bought myself and a cast alum Mopar Performance trans pan (P5007795AB)($180-200), it's Extra deep.... and allows for a temp sender as well as a drain plug.

    I guess my message is -Talk to Wayne he will help you decide what you need.

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    wine taster kjk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moparboy72 View Post
    I guess my message is -Talk to Wayne he will help you decide what you need.
    I went that exact same route. Custom install instructions and all. While Wayne was extremely helpful, That setup he gave me shifted EXTREMELY hard! I ended up buying a new seperator plate for the valve body and re-drilling the holes smaller. Just a heads up.
    5.9 ZJ SCT tuned PCM/ KJK CAI/ Thorley headers with 3" Magnaflow cat and muffler/ Modded kegger/ TransGo shift kit/ Vanco brake kit/ Braided steel brake lines/ Mopar cupholder insert!

  7. #7

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    This is precisely the reason I started this thread as Generally ripping into anything new never gives me a moments in decision. But My specialty is engine building electronics and diagnostics and drivability.

    Other then TC solenoids valve body replacements and the occasional shift kits and seals I stay away from internal work on Automatic Transmissions.

    Does anyone have access to and can post a step by step instruction for the TFOD-HD2 kit that goes over the finer points of the install to eliminate the confusion by transgo ???

    How about a new thread TRANSGO TFOD-HD2 install for Dummies?

    (Got my niece Geometry for Dummies 2 months ago and she went from a D to an A in a short period of time so the books really do work)

  8. #8
    Registered Glockman19's Avatar
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    FSM is factory service manual. Mopar makes the reusable gasket, its 1/4 in thick hard plastic and has a double o-ring seal on both sides and it is reusable. It's been a while since I installed mine so I won't try to do a writeup from memory but I do remember seeing a writeup that someone else had done and it had pictures, I'll try to find it.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]'97 ZJ 5.2 UpCountry, Ported Kegger, KRC 2.02 R/T Heads, KRC 210X Cam, Comp 1.6 RR, 2" Teraflex BB, BGF 31-10.50 AT KO's, Optima Red Top, Edelbrock IAS, JKS Adj Frt Trackbar, OME SD40, PPH/Leach Headers and Kolak 3" Exhaust with Flowmaster 70, K&N FIPK II, CNC 50mm TB, Mopar Perf PCM, APS Super Shift Kit, TrueTrac LSD up Front,Trac-Lok in rear, 4.56's.

    '04 Dakota Quad Cab, 4.7 with 5spd auto, Line-X bedliner, 3.92 with LSD and Towing Pkg, Extang Tuff Tonno.

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    wine taster kjk's Avatar
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    Here's the link to the TransGo install. It's a good overview but it doesn't tell you what sizes to drill the holes or where to set the pressure regulator for your specific application as these details (that are so important) will vary.
    5.9 ZJ SCT tuned PCM/ KJK CAI/ Thorley headers with 3" Magnaflow cat and muffler/ Modded kegger/ TransGo shift kit/ Vanco brake kit/ Braided steel brake lines/ Mopar cupholder insert!

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    Registered kirkwood's Avatar
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    I think what he wants is the special sheet from Wayne without buying the kit from Wayne.

    You get what you pay for. FWIW I have installed a transgo kit in a 998 and it was pretty easy. The instructions are kind of goofy but that bad.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by kjk View Post
    Here's the link to the TransGo install. It's a good overview but it doesn't tell you what sizes to drill the holes or where to set the pressure regulator for your specific application as these details (that are so important) will vary.
    Actually this is the particular link that I read in the past that is the real reason for this thread as anyone who reads it without having the all important blanks
    filled in is only looking for trouble.

    I have installed many shift kits over the years with no problems but this particular set of instructions for this particular kit is more then a little misleading. Is it so much to ask that transgo supply a close up photo of exactly where to drill the holes. Not a general location.

    Evidentially the location and drill size for this hole is a closely guarded trade secret

    Page 3 figure 3 of this guide is the area in particular where they call for a 3/64 drill hole in the side of the valve body and all they give you is a crappy arrow that is worthless as it does not tell exactly where to drill or how deep.

    Other then this the rest of the install is rather straight forward. I have no problems with drilling holes in my valvebody as long as the location of where to drill and the size of the hole is specified.

  12. #12
    wine taster kjk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Griffon327 View Post
    I have no problems with drilling holes in my valvebody as long as the location of where to drill and the size of the hole is specified.
    When you get the actual kit and instructions it will tell you precisely where to drill the holes. There isn't anything vague about that. The size of the holes you drill for shift "firmness" is only given as a range of hole sizes. Again, this will vary with the individual user as to how firm, fast, harsh they want the shift to be.
    I just wanted mine a little crisper/quicker than stock. It's easier to live with day to day and people won't ask "What's wrong with your transmission?".
    5.9 ZJ SCT tuned PCM/ KJK CAI/ Thorley headers with 3" Magnaflow cat and muffler/ Modded kegger/ TransGo shift kit/ Vanco brake kit/ Braided steel brake lines/ Mopar cupholder insert!

  13. #13

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    So what you are saying is that the instructions in the newer (more recent) kits are a little clearer about where to drill the hole then the ones posted so far?

    That is a relief

    As for the drill size will start with the smallest and get larger until I get to the point where the firmness of the shift at WOT puts a grin on my face.

    Also will purchase a manual at the same time as I buy the kit because it is always good to have.

    Thanks

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    Registered Glockman19's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Griffon327 View Post
    Page 3 figure 3 of this guide is the area in particular where they call for a 3/64 drill hole in the side of the valve body and all they give you is a crappy arrow that is worthless as it does not tell exactly where to drill or how deep.

    Other then this the rest of the install is rather straight forward. I have no problems with drilling holes in my valvebody as long as the location of where to drill and the size of the hole is specified.
    I looked up my notes and install sheet and refreshed my memory. If you look at the arrow, it points to a vertical wall next to the regulator valve, you use a center punch to dimple a spot on this wall 1/8" down to start a 3/64" drill bit. The purpose of this is to drill a 3/64" hole through the wall.

    As for the other holes to be drilled, there are the two 3/32" in the end chamber by the switch valve on page 3. The tricky holes are in the separator plate shown on page 4, I drilled the holes for 1-2 firmness at .093 (3/32") and the same size for the 2-3 firmness hole. Mine shifts well, it lunges forward on WOT shifts but isn't too harsh at part throttle (for me anyway). You might want to start with smaller holes first and work your way up or buy an extra separator plate. I hope this helps.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]'97 ZJ 5.2 UpCountry, Ported Kegger, KRC 2.02 R/T Heads, KRC 210X Cam, Comp 1.6 RR, 2" Teraflex BB, BGF 31-10.50 AT KO's, Optima Red Top, Edelbrock IAS, JKS Adj Frt Trackbar, OME SD40, PPH/Leach Headers and Kolak 3" Exhaust with Flowmaster 70, K&N FIPK II, CNC 50mm TB, Mopar Perf PCM, APS Super Shift Kit, TrueTrac LSD up Front,Trac-Lok in rear, 4.56's.

    '04 Dakota Quad Cab, 4.7 with 5spd auto, Line-X bedliner, 3.92 with LSD and Towing Pkg, Extang Tuff Tonno.

  15. #15

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    Thanks. All this extra info filled in all the missing pieces. although the 2 holes 3/32 ?? I thought the instructions said not to do it for a JEEP application?

    Which is sorta weird because you say it controls the firmness in the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts which is the number one reason I am getting the kit.

    Anybody have any idea exactly which step in the TFOD-HD2 install gives you the ability to down shift at any speed? This is a feature that I absolutely do not want to install by accident as I have no desire to down shift to 1st gear at 60 mph plus by accident because I enabled the transmission to do so.

    Why on earth anybody would want to enable that feature is beyond me.

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    wine taster kjk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Griffon327 View Post
    Thanks. All this extra info filled in all the missing pieces. although the 2 holes 3/32 ?? I thought the instructions said not to do it for a JEEP application?

    Which is sorta weird because you say it controls the firmness in the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts which is the number one reason I am getting the kit.

    Anybody have any idea exactly which step in the TFOD-HD2 install gives you the ability to down shift at any speed? This is a feature that I absolutely do not want to install by accident as I have no desire to down shift to 1st gear at 60 mph plus by accident because I enabled the transmission to do so.

    Why on earth anybody would want to enable that feature is beyond me.

    You are right about the 3/32" holes on page 3. Do not drill them for Jeeps.

    On page 4 it shows where to drill the separator plate for 1-2 shift firmness.
    I drilled the 1-2 hole at .089"

    On Jeeps don't drill the hole for 2-3 shift firmness. It will be plenty good as is!

    With this combination my shifts (1-2 and 2-3) are well balanced and feel the same. I am definitely on the lighter side of how hard you can make it shift, but no one will complain and I don't get a harsh (lift-throttle) 2-3 shift anymore.

    As far as downshifting at any speed goes, it isn't shown on that site but in the instuctions it has you replace a governor valve in the valve body with one in the kit. It tells you to skip this step if you want to.
    5.9 ZJ SCT tuned PCM/ KJK CAI/ Thorley headers with 3" Magnaflow cat and muffler/ Modded kegger/ TransGo shift kit/ Vanco brake kit/ Braided steel brake lines/ Mopar cupholder insert!

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    Registered Glockman19's Avatar
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    I drilled the holes on mine (so I'm not guessing) after talking with Wayne and I have no regrets . It shifts harder on the 1-2 than the 2-3. It would seem to me that the 2-3 shift would be noticabley softer if it wasn't drilled any larger. Wayne does a lot of valve bodies so I value his judgement, I asked him the same question about drilling the holes and he said I would like it and he wasn't wrong but I like a firm shift.

    I'm not sure which mod controls the "downshift at any speed" but I haven't accidentally bumped it into low and I have had my kit in for a couple of years. I found that it shifts very well left in D so I don't mess with shifter much. I like the instant downshifts when I stand on it, I just wish my truck could do the same.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]'97 ZJ 5.2 UpCountry, Ported Kegger, KRC 2.02 R/T Heads, KRC 210X Cam, Comp 1.6 RR, 2" Teraflex BB, BGF 31-10.50 AT KO's, Optima Red Top, Edelbrock IAS, JKS Adj Frt Trackbar, OME SD40, PPH/Leach Headers and Kolak 3" Exhaust with Flowmaster 70, K&N FIPK II, CNC 50mm TB, Mopar Perf PCM, APS Super Shift Kit, TrueTrac LSD up Front,Trac-Lok in rear, 4.56's.

    '04 Dakota Quad Cab, 4.7 with 5spd auto, Line-X bedliner, 3.92 with LSD and Towing Pkg, Extang Tuff Tonno.

  18. #18

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    I guess I will also drill those 2 holes as I want the firm 1-2 and 2-3 shift

    What I am looking for is the perfect set up so that the shifter can be left in drive and the transmission will shift exactly the way I want it to all by itself.

    My supercharged 98 Mustang has the same transgo kit in it and I always leave it in drive even at the track.

    I guess I'll replace the governor also then.

  19. #19
    Registered Glockman19's Avatar
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    It would be nice if you had a chance to either ride in or drive my Jeep, you could see if it's what you want before you drill the holes in your separator plate. You could always install the plate as is then remove it and drill it later if it's not aggressive enough but that's a lot of trouble to go through, for that matter you could always get another stock separator plate to replace it if you drilled it first and didn't like it but I don't think that will be the case. Mine shifts very consistently, the only thing I can add is when I installed my kit, I had also installed the Mopar PCM the same week and noticed that it would sometimes peg the rev limiter in 1st gear and not upshift until I let off the gas. A quick call to Wayne and he tells me I need a new governor pressure sensor. That was the fix and I replaced the solenoid pack while I was in there, I'm not sure what the problem was caused by but the gov. pressure sensor had been revised (new part number) so keep that in mind.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]'97 ZJ 5.2 UpCountry, Ported Kegger, KRC 2.02 R/T Heads, KRC 210X Cam, Comp 1.6 RR, 2" Teraflex BB, BGF 31-10.50 AT KO's, Optima Red Top, Edelbrock IAS, JKS Adj Frt Trackbar, OME SD40, PPH/Leach Headers and Kolak 3" Exhaust with Flowmaster 70, K&N FIPK II, CNC 50mm TB, Mopar Perf PCM, APS Super Shift Kit, TrueTrac LSD up Front,Trac-Lok in rear, 4.56's.

    '04 Dakota Quad Cab, 4.7 with 5spd auto, Line-X bedliner, 3.92 with LSD and Towing Pkg, Extang Tuff Tonno.

  20. #20

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    hey, guys mind telling what APS stands for been looking for them on the web and no luck, I also need shift kit for special application.
    Thanks

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