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Thread: HP44 3/4 ton 8 lug to 5 lug?

  1. #1
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    Default HP44 3/4 ton 8 lug to 5 lug?

    I have come across an HP44HD out of a 78 F-250 that is 8 lug. I want to know if I can keep the 3/4 ton knuckles and switch out the spindle so I can run 5x5.5 bolt pattern? Or what would I need to change out if I wanted the 5x5.5 pattern with the 3/4 ton knuckles? I like the fact the 3/4 ton knuckles are already flat top, use 3/4 ton brakes and uses bigger ball joints. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks.

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    You'll have to keep the bigger brakes because the half ton stuff won't fit on the the 3/4 ton one. You might be able to use the 5 lug hub and drill new holes in the rotor to match. If all else fails you'll have to swap from the knuckles out to get the 5 lug stuff. The 3/4 ton stuff is stronger.
    98 lj351w, Aodw, KluneV, 205, 80 steering rear, Hp60, full hydro, coil overs, 47 Ltb's
    97 Tj2,5,ax5

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99tjred
    You'll have to keep the bigger brakes because the half ton stuff won't fit on the the 3/4 ton one. You might be able to use the 5 lug hub and drill new holes in the rotor to match. If all else fails you'll have to swap from the knuckles out to get the 5 lug stuff. The 3/4 ton stuff is stronger.

    Thanks for the response. I know the 3/4 ton stuff is stronger and that is why I want to keep it but I cannot match the 8 lug in the front with my 5 lug on the rear. I was thinking I could change out the spindle and the hub to get the 5 lug pattern? Any more thoughts?

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    I don't think that you would need to change the spindle. Just use the five lug hub and drill the 3/4 rotor to match it.
    98 lj351w, Aodw, KluneV, 205, 80 steering rear, Hp60, full hydro, coil overs, 47 Ltb's
    97 Tj2,5,ax5

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99tjred
    I don't think that you would need to change the spindle. Just use the five lug hub and drill the 3/4 rotor to match it.

    Good, that would be one less thing that I would have to replace (hopefully). It already has warn lockout hubs, do you think I could buy some 5x5.5 hubs and use the same warn lockouts with them or would I need to buy a new setup?

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    I would think that the lockouts are the same. I checked and the stub shaft length is the same for either so the hubs should interchange. Let us know how it works. You will also need at least a 16" wheel without grinding the heck out of the calipers and still may have to with 16".
    98 lj351w, Aodw, KluneV, 205, 80 steering rear, Hp60, full hydro, coil overs, 47 Ltb's
    97 Tj2,5,ax5

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    Pink = my favorite color under_psi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tweba99
    Good, that would be one less thing that I would have to replace (hopefully). It already has warn lockout hubs, do you think I could buy some 5x5.5 hubs and use the same warn lockouts with them or would I need to buy a new setup?
    sure would be easier to buy 2, 8-lug steelies....

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    Quote Originally Posted by under_psi
    sure would be easier to buy 2, 8-lug steelies....

    Remember you are going to be buying the rear 60? I thought.........

    I don't want 2 different lug pattenrs. :nuts:

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    I just went the other way on a HP44 5 on 5.5 to 8 lug, easy either way, if you need parts give me a shout.
    John
    99 TJ, 4.0, Auto, 8.8, HP30
    94 YJ, 4.6 stroker, HP44, 14Bolt, 38.5 Boggers, 101" wheelbase
    I Brake for Junk Yards

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    Just wait till you buy a rear and get a pair of 8 lugs. Swapping to 5X5.5 is expensive. I would just wait till you are ready to do it all instead of piecing it together. Better yet, go wheel you junk as it is now and worry about swapping later.
    Project TonJ Buildup Thread
    99 TJ, 107" WB, HP D60/14B, 40" Creepy's on 17" KMC Enduro's

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    The easiest and cheapest way to go about this is to find an 80+ ford TTB dana 44 front end from a bronco or F150 and take the knuckle, spindle, hub, rotor, caliper assembly and swap it over. I believe you'll also need the outter stub shafts from that TTB front end. I'm not 100% sure but i also believe the inner shafts are different because of the ujoint on an F250 dana 44 vs 78 150 dana 44. I say this because a few weeks ago we were wheeling with a guy who had a stock 79 F250 dana 44 front under his YJ that blew an outter stub shaft with 35" MT/R's so we took a spare F150 outter stub another guy had and matched it up with a new spicer 297 ujoint, and it wouldn't fit. The caps on the F250 Dana 44 were larger because it was an HD dana 44 Anyways, 44's are not my thing, they break to often but doing that TTB swap is going to be your cheapest and easiest route short of finding someone like Chili99 who just did the swap and has all the parts.
    Old Rig - 1 Ton YJ on 40's
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  12. #12

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    I just got done doing this..

    I'm using a HP44 housing from a '79 F250. I shortened each side 2.75" so I can use Wagoneer axle shafts. I'm running Chevy flat top knuckles (both drilled and tapped) for hi-steer. To run the 5x5.5 bolt pattern, there are a couple of ways to do it. If you run the flat top Chevy knuckles, you need to run Chevy SMALL bearing spindles (because they have 6 spindle bolts, Fords have 5), and '79 F150 hubs and rotors. If flat top knuckles aren't a concern for you, you can run all '79 F150 Ford from the knuckles out.

    I have an 8.8 out back, so I just ran some spidertrax adapters. Front and rear are about at 61.5". I plan on running 36" Iroks, and my Jeep is still a DD, so that is why I decided on the HP44. I'm saving my HP60 for a future project where I can go ALL out.

    Here are the specs of my front axle.


    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Front Axle Specs
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    HP44 out of a '79 Ford F250 (1/2" thick tubes)
    - shortened from 67" WMS to 61.5" (removed 2.75" of tube from each side)
    - shortened to use stock Wagoneer axle shafts from an '89
    - caster set at 7 degrees
    - spring perch width is 31.5"; YJ is 31"; holes drilled .25" toward the inside.

    Axle Shafts
    - '89 Jeep Wagoneer D44
    - Spicer 760X u-joints

    Axle Seals
    - these are the seals next to the carrier bearings inside the housing.
    - Axle Shaft Seal - part# 13165

    Converted to 5x5.5 bolt pattern
    - '79 F150 Hubs and Rotors
    inner wheel bearing: Set 37 (76 Chevy / 85 F-150)
    outer wheel bearing: Set 45 (76 Chevy / 85 F-150)
    - '76 Chevy K10 Calipers
    - '76 Chevy Brake Pads
    - mid '70s Chevy 31" SS brake hose. Fits Chevy caliper and 3/16" brake line.
    - mid '70s Chevy spindles (small bearing)

    Knuckles and Steering
    - Chevy flat top knuckles
    - Parts Mike super steering arms (1.5" thick)
    - '85 Chevy Blazer 7/8"-18 TREs and 1.125"x.188" wall DOM tube.
    + Tie Rod:
    + ES2233L for pass side
    + ES2234R for driver side
    + Drag Link:
    + ES2027L for pitman arm
    + ES2234R for pass side (mounts to TRE ES2233L)

    Lock out Hubs
    - Warn premium locking hub, Part # 20990


    Build-up link:
    http://ohio4x4.fourwardmomentum.com/...ead.php?t=2805
    "If you want to ride the ultimate wave, you have to be willing to pay the ultimate price.." -- Mark Foo

    '89 YJ - 4.0L/AW4/231/HP60/60/37's

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    Thanks for all of the replies. I see the options I have now and I think I need to decide if I want to keep it 8 lug and get an 8 lug for the rear or convert the front. I plan on building this axle for next wheeling season (as the funds come in) so I have some time to decide.

    It sounds like it might be easier (better for me) to keep the 8 lug and just get a cheap 14 bolt and put it in the rear (same 67" WMS) with some new brackets gears and hopefully I can get a corporate so I won't have to buy a detroit. I would then have a front and rear axle at the same width. I can probably sell my built rear Dana 44 for $1K and I could probably build a 14 bolt for that.

    Trust me Matt, if I could be going on these last recent trips, I would. I am making sure that I am going to the Hot Springs trip in September.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tweba99
    Thanks for all of the replies. I see the options I have now and I think I need to decide if I want to keep it 8 lug and get an 8 lug for the rear or convert the front. I plan on building this axle for next wheeling season (as the funds come in) so I have some time to decide.

    It sounds like it might be easier (better for me) to keep the 8 lug and just get a cheap 14 bolt and put it in the rear (same 67" WMS) with some new brackets gears and hopefully I can get a corporate so I won't have to buy a detroit. I would then have a front and rear axle at the same width. I can probably sell my built rear Dana 44 for $1K and I could probably build a 14 bolt for that.

    Trust me Matt, if I could be going on these last recent trips, I would. I am making sure that I am going to the Hot Springs trip in September.
    Last time I checked, the Offroad Connection was able to get the CUCV rear 14 bolt with a detroit and 4.56 gears for a good price. Throw on some rear disk brakes and diff cover and you're still well under $1,000.
    HEY EVERYONE. CLICK USER CP, GROUP MEMBERSHIPS, AND TURN THE OT SECTION ON. SEE YOU THERE!
    "When life looks like Easy Street, there is danger at your door."

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    I paid $600 for my Corporate 14B complete. Added discs and a diff cover
    Project TonJ Buildup Thread
    99 TJ, 107" WB, HP D60/14B, 40" Creepy's on 17" KMC Enduro's

    Hardline Crawlers

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    I just found a 14 bolt rear and a 10 bolt front on pirate for $600 in AR with 5.13's and lockers already installed. HMMMMMMM......

  17. #17
    I no speaky engrish RoKnAzn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tweba99
    I don't want 2 different lug pattenrs. :nuts:
    Now this sounds like a Mall Crawler to me....

    BTW go wheel ur chit

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    Quote Originally Posted by tweba99
    I just found a 14 bolt rear and a 10 bolt front on pirate for $600 in AR with 5.13's and lockers already installed. HMMMMMMM......
    That is great except 10bolts suck. You would be better of with the 44
    Project TonJ Buildup Thread
    99 TJ, 107" WB, HP D60/14B, 40" Creepy's on 17" KMC Enduro's

    Hardline Crawlers

  19. #19
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    I wouldn't go with the 10 bolt but the 14 bolt with 5.13's already in it is what I would be interested in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RoKnAzn
    Now this sounds like a Mall Crawler to me....

    BTW go wheel ur chit
    If you don't have anything to help with the thread, stay out of it.

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