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Thread: t-150 or clutch problem???

  1. #1
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    Icon5a t-150 or clutch problem???

    hey my '76 5 has a 304 w/ a t-150 and I have been having some trouble shifting lately. I am have trouble getting into reverse and 1st gear. Sometimes I have to shift throughout the gears in order to get it in reverse. Also, it gettin hard to shift fully into 1st gear. When shifting to 2nd gear, if I shift right after pressing the clutch, I will make a grinding sound. It also makes a grinding sound when going into 1st gear sometimes. So far to try and fix the problem, I have installed a new linkage kit and it hasn't solved the problem. Do yall think this sounds like a clutch problem or tranny problem? Being that is grinds when I press the clutch going into 1st gear from rest, it makes me believe it is something with the clutch. I dont know too much about clutches and tranny's so all info will be very helpful.

  2. #2

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    Ignore what you're thinking.. It's on the wrong track.
    The two biggest possibilities are bad synchros in the tranny, or clutch/input binding/ clutch not fully releasing.
    To address the latter, be sure your linkage is adjusted properly. Also, the throw out bearing may have gone bad. (I saw one once that had seized up badly enough that it had worn through the fingers of the diaphragm clutch, and popped clear through.)
    As for binding, the clutch disc could be hanging up on the input shaft splines, the pressure plate and/or flywheel could be warped, or the input shaft could be binding in the pilot bushing.

    Try adjusting the linkage and filling the transmission with lubricant. If that doesn't do it, you'll have to pull the tranny to go further.

  3. #3
    Registered fuzz401's Avatar
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    try pulling the floor plate off unscrew the shifter cap under that there is a 1/2 round cap with a spring clean it off and put a little grease on it and the inside of the cap that unscrews and see if that helps you any
    do not pull the shifter out if you do watch for the pins on the side if they fall into the tranny you must get them out

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  4. #4

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    "bad synchros in the tranny"

    Sounds a lot like syncncros, had a T-150 not shift into 1st. Replaced the synchro and all was well.

    Check the bearings real close if you find the synchro has gone bad. All that brass will tear up the bearings!

    On The Road Again. Got it running again after the ground up overhaul, and this thing moves!

  5. #5
    Registered JKBogle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuzz401
    try pulling the floor plate off unscrew the shifter cap under that there is a 1/2 round cap with a spring clean it off and put a little grease on it and the inside of the cap that unscrews and see if that helps you any
    do not pull the shifter out if you do watch for the pins on the side if they fall into the tranny you must get them out
    Also when you pull the shifter off understand that on both sides of the threaded part the shifter cap screws to there are 2 small holes, horizontally positioned. In these holes are a small "pill" that sits flush with the inside and outside walls. Make sure to keep track of these "pills". If one slips into the tranny, its gone. You will need to pull the tranny and tear it apart the find them.
    78 CJ7, Fiberglass body and fenders, Custom Grand Cherokee seats, GM heater blower motor, MC 2100, TFI ignition, Tie rod flip, OBA, Full cage Custom 4" lift.

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    Well I cleaned that spring and greased it then I drained the oil and it looked pretty light in color like some water would have gotten in there. I was wondering where the fill plug is? How much oil should go in there?

  7. #7
    Registered JKBogle's Avatar
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    You drained the transmisison before you knew where the fill plug was and before you knew what to put in it??

    I dont want to sound crass but really dont you think you should have found that out before you drained it. I have a T 150, and I cant get the fill plug off. Even when I had the transmission on a workbench I couldnt remove it. Of course, I knew this before I drained the transmission. So I did my research and learned that I could "top load" the fluid through the hole in the transmission where the shifter goes.

    Some of us completly prepare before we tackle a job. Review time and time again. Ill get off my soapbox now, sorry for the lecture.

    By the way. the fill hole is on the same side of the transmission as the drain plug. Scrap off the crap and you should see it up high. Also, it takes SAE 75W-90 API GL-5 gear oil, 2.8 pints.

    Good luck

    Jason
    78 CJ7, Fiberglass body and fenders, Custom Grand Cherokee seats, GM heater blower motor, MC 2100, TFI ignition, Tie rod flip, OBA, Full cage Custom 4" lift.

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    I got the fill plug off and ran a piece of clear hose into the hole. when i pour the oil in there, it come right back out. should I pull the shifter off.

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    Does the shifter come right out. Should I pull those little pills out first?

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by JKBogle
    Also, it takes SAE 75W-90 API GL-5 gear oil, 2.8 pints.


    Jason
    Do not put GL-5 in the transmission. It takes GL-4!

    Fill through the fill plug, it will give you the proper level.

    If it runs right back out when you try to fill it, either you haven't drained it, or you're trying to fill through other than the fill plug.

    The fill plug is a square headed pipe plug, about 3/4 of the way up (on the passenger's side, if I remember correctly.) The T-150 and D20 share oil. Drain and refill both your tranny and transfer case. (The TC fill plug is on the back of the case.)

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    Well I got new oil in the tranny and tc. Then I took it for a good test drive and it is still doing the same exact thing. I pulled my shifter out to look inside with a flashlight and the gears that I could see looked to be in good shape. The reverse and first shift rail had a chip on the reverse edge of the rail. oh yeah I checked the oil level when I got back and that was still good. What should I do next?

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    As posted earlier:
    Quote Originally Posted by LilRocky
    The two biggest possibilities are bad synchros in the tranny, or clutch/input binding/ clutch not fully releasing.
    To address the latter, be sure your linkage is adjusted properly.
    If you don't know how to adjust the clutch, get yourself a service manual. A Chiltons or Haynes will cover this and would have covered the tranny issues.

    The internet is a good place for info, but please don't expect to be spoon fed everything.

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    The clutch is adjusted properly. So is it probably the syncros.

  14. #14

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    Since you're having a hard time getting into reverse, too, I'd look elsewhere, first. (Reverse is not synchronized.)
    I'd first check for the clutch disc binding on the input shaft, input shaft binding in the pilot bushing (or a broken or missing pilot bushing), warped flywheel and/or pressure plate, and/or damaged/misfunctioning throw out bearing and/or release fingers.
    All of this, of course, requires pulling the tranny.

    What do you mean by a chip in the first/reverse rail? Is the rail itself chipped, or the dog? If the rail, are you sure it's not the detent you're seeing?

    If you really suspect problem with the shift rail, before you pull the tranny, pull the cover off it and check the operation of the rails.

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    yeah its the dog that is kinda rounded off. I dont thinks its enough to affect it. Once I take the tranny off, should I bring it to a shop or is it something that I can do my self with the manual. That is if it isn't somthing with the clutch or somethin.

  16. #16

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    If you are going after possible clutch problems, they won't be found in the tranny.

    Unfortunately, a manual can't really tell you what to check, but there's really no sense in trying to repair old clutch components piecemeal.
    Once you have it out, you might as well resurface the flywheel and replace all the clutch components. ..Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to open up the tranny and check bearings and synchros. The T-150 is about as simple as they get, so you can have a go at it if you feel comfortable, or you can take it to a shop if you don't.

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    Thanks for the information guys. I was gonna drop the tranny this weekend but it looks like Hurricane Rita will be knockin at my back door. That sucker keeps turning to the north.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by LilRocky
    Do not put GL-5 in the transmission. It takes GL-4!



    Chilton and Haynes says it takes GL-5.
    78 CJ7, Fiberglass body and fenders, Custom Grand Cherokee seats, GM heater blower motor, MC 2100, TFI ignition, Tie rod flip, OBA, Full cage Custom 4" lift.

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    Screw Chilton and Haynes. GL-5 contains additives which eat away brass. Brass is the material that the synchros are made of. You can fully expect to cut the life on your synchros by 50% by using GL-5 in a tranny calling for GL-3 or GL-4.

    GL-5 wasn't even available (or invented) when the T150 was being put into Jeeps.

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