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Thread: Rear Diff Growl. Here Is The Reason.

  1. #1

    Icon316 Rear Diff Growl. Here Is The Reason.

    I thought members my find this of interest. I had many a headache figuring this one out. My advice is to always use 75w-140 Syn Oil in the rear. I also use it in the front.



    Rear Axle - Carrier Bearing Growl

    NO: 03-03-98

    GROUP: Axle And Propshafts

    DATE: Jul. 31, 1998

    SUBJECT:

    Rear Axle Carrier
    Bearing Growl

    NOTE :THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO 1997 AND 1998 GRAND CHEROKEES EQUIPPED WITH V8 ENGINES AND ALUMINUM HOUSING DANA 216 RBA AXLES BUILT IN THE USA (ZJ) BETWEEN DECEMBER 1, 1996 AND MARCH 31, 1998 (1997 MDH 1201XX THROUGH 1998 MDH 0331 XX) AND BUILT IN EUROPE (ZG) BETWEEN JANUARY 20, 1997 AND JUNE 30, 1998 (1997 MDH 0120XX AND 1998 MDH 0630XX).

    MODELS:

    1997 through 1998 (ZJ) Grand Cherokee
    1997 through 1998 (ZG) Grand Cherokee (International markets)

    SYMPTOM:

    A growling noise may be present coming from the rear axle. This noise may be caused by gradual wearing of the rear axle carrier bearings and races. The noise is usually light at first and is often mis-diagnosed for a wind noise or air leak in the tailgate area. The noise becomes gradually worse with increased mileage. A remanufactured axle assembly has been released for use in this situation.

    The axle assemblies will be shipped minus axle shafts and wheel end/brake components which will require transfer from the original assembly. The axle assemblies will be shipped dry as they will require cover removal for installation of the axle shaft C clip retainer.

    CAUTION :THE AXLE BEARINGS RIDE DIRECTLY ON THE AXLE SHAFT WITHOUT A RACE IN THIS APPLICATION. DAMAGE TO THE AXLE SHAFT CAN RESULT FROM CONTAMINATION IF METAL PARTICLES ARE PRESENT IN THE FLUID. CAREFULLY INSPECT THE AXLE SHAFT FOR DAMAGE AT THIS AREA. IF ANY DAMAGE IS PRESENT, AXLE SHAFT REPLACEMENT WILL BE REQUIRED.

    DIAGNOSIS:

    Road test the vehicle. If the noise is present and the vehicle falls within the build range perform the Repair Procedure.

    PARTS REQUIRED:

    AR R4886322 Axle Assy. 5.2L - 3.73 ratio, without Trac Loc (Tagged
    5207044 or 52098980)

    AR R4886321 Axle Assy. 5.2L - 3.73 ratio, with Trac Loc (Tagged
    52070046 or 52098981

    AR R5003337 Axle Assy. 5.9L - 3.73 ratio, with Trac Loc (Tagged
    52111 998AA)

    Torque Specifications:

    Bolts - Diff. Cover 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.)
    Screws ABS sensor 17.6 Nm (13 ft lbs.)
    Nuts - Backing Plate 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.)
    Brake Caliper 15 Nm (10 ft. lbs.)
    Propeller Shaft Yoke bolts 19 Nm (14 ft. lbs.)
    Shock Absorber nut 92 Nm (68 ft. lbs.)
    Upper Control Arm nuts 75 Nm (52 ft. lbs.)
    Lower Control Arm nuts 177 Nm (130 ft. lbs.)
    Sway Bar nut 36 Nm (27 ft. lbs.)
    Track Bar bolt 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.)

    POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

    TIME ALLOWANCE:

    Axle assembly, Remanufactured - Replace - 216 RBA axle

    Labor Operation No: 03-30-01-92 2.2 Hrs.

    FAILURE CODE: P8 - New Part
    5.9 Limited LX Slate 45,000 miles

  2. #2
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    I had this done 3 years ago under warranty on my '98 4.0 with the D35 rear at 50K miles. Carrier bearings were replaced. I changed out the OEM fluid to 75W140 Amsoil after 500 miles. It's been ok since but I do still hear the slight hissssssssssss sound especially when cold....nothing compared to what it sounded like when the c-bearings were bad, that sounded more like a rumbling noise. I currently have 92K miles.

  3. #3
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    So, what if your carrier bearing and right rear axle was replaced, but it still hums the same? Is this possibly a lack of gear oil in the housing causing the gears to grind metal to metal? I have a 98 4.0 with 109k miles
    Erin :teehee:

    If you stand for nothing, you'll fall for anything

    98 ZJ Stock w/Kenwood CD, Amp, 2 Infinity 12's Nevermind, that was all stolen! Just added Pro Comp MX6 adjustable shocks and lots of diff goodies and other Jeep crap

  4. #4
    Registered louc's Avatar
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    Apparently this problem was traced to assembly and set up problems at the factory, the story being that the backlash was set and they then pressed the tubes in to the housing, which may have thrown the #s off. I heard that a whole lot of them were replaced. I used to see pallets of them in the corner of my dealer! I have always used the Mopar syn 75W-140 gear oil and have had no problems with the diffs yet (78K miles) we'll see how it goes!
    Lou C

    98 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
    H-4/ECE Headlights, Painless Wiring Harness, Hella 450 fogs
    Front and rear tow hitches, Air Lift, Bilsteins
    Dynomax Cat Back Exhaust
    B&M Supercooler

    07 WK Limited 5.7 HEMI Quadradrive II


    1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
    4.3 OMC/Cobra Drive

  5. #5
    5.9 Elitist ptownTSI's Avatar
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    how long are peoples dana 44's lasting when they have them rebuilt?

    is there anything besides the axle shaft bearings that the "gear install kits" dont come with that i will need when rebuilding the axle?

    also why is there a seperate part # for the 5.9L? better stuff in that assembly or something?
    98 5.9 Limited (my 2nd 5.9 and 3rd ZJ)
    Ice cream paint job
    Rear view mirror, Jumbo dice! Trunk hit hard like Kimbo Slice.

  6. #6
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    Last weekend I pulled my rear diff cover for the first time since I bought my ZJ off lease in 1999 with 69,000 miles. It now has 160,000 miles and I was very surprised the oil was in such good condition. Still had a nice amber color (was dark), no bad smells, and no globs to be found. The were some small metal pieces in the bottom of the case, but less then expected. I'm trying oil I never heard about but seems to be highly respected by folks that know more about gears then I do. It's made by Lubrication Engineers and is called 607 Almasol. I'm going with the straight SAE 90 because I was told it would quiet the hum if anything would.
    James Beltz
    1997 Silver ZJ 5.9
    31 x 10.5 KOs
    OME HD Coils
    Rancho RSX Shocks

  7. #7
    Registered Moparman's Avatar
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    There were a few reasons why they didn't last

    1: poor assy., too much variation in backlash/preload, etc. Also assy was not clean, grit and machining debris not cleaned out.

    2: cheap fluid in most from the factory

    3:no magnet in diff, untill sometime in 2000


    Fluid should be changed as soon as it starts to get dark,(75/140 syn)and a magnet siliconed on the cover. Then just keep an eye on the fluid color and change when it starts to darken. **IF** the diffs are rebuilt carefully, they last very well. When I bought mine, it had had 2 rears done under warr. allready at 55k. I did the back, and the front one(bearings) , and shimmed them(pattern off on both) , and now at 140k the are both dead quiet,and this gets used hard, pulls a trailer, etc.. The magnet and clean fluid is very important in my opinion.
    Dave St.Louis
    98 Platinum Gr.Cherokee 5.9 Ltd.
    3in exhaust/Flowmaster,K&N,Airbox mods,Skids,Hooks,Bilsteins,265/70/16 Toyos,Chrome 5 spoke wheels,2in BB,WJ lower arms
    ASE Cert. JEEP Tech

    Pics at http://community.webshots.com/user/davestlouis-reg

  8. #8
    5.9 Elitist ptownTSI's Avatar
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    Scott mueller had mentioned that he jb welded his magnet, inside the cover. and it has yet to fall off...so i might try that.

    i changed the fluid with Royal Purple 75/140 syn when i bought it at Eric's (cerof) house in texas. that was with 44k it has 54k now...i should probably change it. however if everything is thrashed i might as well save the $ on fluid and just put it towards a rebuild. I guess i could try the "lucas oil" stuff thats supposed to quiet things down, but i doubt it.
    98 5.9 Limited (my 2nd 5.9 and 3rd ZJ)
    Ice cream paint job
    Rear view mirror, Jumbo dice! Trunk hit hard like Kimbo Slice.

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