Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: "Burping" cooling system?

  1. #1
    Registered
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    St. Louis, MO USA
    Posts
    532

    Angry "Burping" cooling system?

    How do I get any air trapped inside my cooling system out? Also, after all I've tried to cure my overheating(new rad., tstat, cap, fan clutch, water pump, flush, watter wetter, etc.), I've heard that a leaking head gasket can cause high temps. Is ther anyway I can check for a blown or leaking head gasket without takin this thing in to the dealer?

    ------------------
    96 XJ Sport, 4.0, auto, Rusty's air tube w/K&N filter, 231, custom RE 5" superflex suspension, ARB w/Warn M8000, RE SYE and CV driveshaft, Dana30 fr., Dana44 rear, 4.10 gears, 33x12.5 MT's, Garvin 6x4x6 rack w/Hi Lift and full size spare, RRO ROckRails, 1200 watt Kenwood/Kicker system, Optima YellowTop, and many more goodies. http://www.members.aol.com/xjrockcrawler/index.html

    96 XJ , RE 4.5" SuperFlex, 32's, etc...

  2. #2
    Registered
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Ashland, KY
    Posts
    328

    Post

    You can get the air out by taking off the hose that goes into the thermostat housing and filling from there. You can check for a blown head gasket with a compression tester(connects to the spark plug fitting). I think they run about $35-40. But first check to see if there is oil in you coolant or water in your oil. Take out the oil filler cap and check for any foam in the oil.

    ------------------
    88 Cherokee Laredo
    4.0 OME 4.5", RR Adj Tracbar, Smittybuilt Nerf Bars and Bumper Thumper, homemade t-case drop, Rusty's adj LCAs, discos and tow hooks, 31 X 10.50 Fate-O Rangerunners, Eagle Alloys, GDI 3 row open system conversion

    [This message has been edited by DocChase (edited 08-22-2001).]
    88 Cherokee Laredo
    4.0 Rusty's 6.5", RR Adj Tracbar, homemade t-case drop, Rusty's adj LCAs and UCAs, discos and tow hooks, 33 X 12.50 BFG Mud Terrains KM2, Eagle Alloys, GDI 3 row open system conversion, Hella 500, Leach header, Catco, Flowmaster 50, 225,000 miles

  3. #3
    Registered
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Shepherd, MT, USA
    Posts
    382

    Post

    O.k. this is how I burped mine. When I drained the coolant I ran the Jeep up on lifters so it was at a 45 degree down angle (The front pointing down) then I just drained out the air by having a friend (or a large funnel) fill the new coolant in, which pushes the air down out of the block, through the radiator and then to the plug (which is closed) when you think the coolants reached the rad, just un screw it a little and you'll hear a long thin hiss, when it stops, you have no more air, and it should be harder and slower to fill the remaining coolant in...mine went from high high 260 to 190 always....
    -1990 Red XJ Pioneer: *Red Interior/Exterior detailing / *Sony 50x4 deck, 12in., 400 watt Sub/MTX 102 Amp(250x1 @ 4ohms)/ *The Entire Napster DataBase / *Blue Turning Signal Lights(Until a pig sees them...) / *Modified Light Housing / *Colored Window Wipers, Antenna / *Sport Pedals, Wheel / *Modified Exhaust pipe, Big Bore Exhaust Tip / *0-60 in 11.8 (LoL) / *1/4 mile, half a tank of gas and a half hour later...
    Coming Soon To a Jeep near Me: *no lift / *BFG Liberators / *Numerous Rice-a-roni decals (Might even put in a Type-R)....or not

  4. #4
    Registered
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    St. Louis, MO USA
    Posts
    532

    Question

    HS, do you just pour it into the rad., or through the hose on the t-stat housing>?

    96 XJ , RE 4.5" SuperFlex, 32's, etc...

  5. #5
    Registered Linux Nuke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Bristol, UK
    Posts
    369

    Post

    The folloing is roughly a repeat of a post I made about 2 months ago.

    To get air out the system you initially want the air to expand as much as possible so bubbles come out from lurking in dead spaces. When you start after a coolant refill the air would expand with the heat but unfortunately will also COMPRESS even more as the pressure builds up. This does not encourage the air to come out.

    So I start after a coolant refill with a ZERO pressure radiator cap. I have a plain cap with just a big rubber washer and no sprung valve disc. I got this from a scrapped Austin 1100, a defunct small UK car which had two filling points, one with the plain cap; but you could make one by cutting big notches in the centre rubber seal of a scrap pressure cap, or cutting the centre sprung valve disk away completely. The outer/upper seal should be left intact.

    When you first fill cold, fill the rad, put the zero pressure cap on and half fill the overflow bottle. If you now repeatedly squeeze the rad hoses, the zero pressure cap allows water and air to pump freely through into the overflow bottle, where the air bubbles away and just water is sucked back to the rad.

    After I can get no more air out that way I suck on the overflow bottle with my mouth (finger over ITS overflow hole) while still squeezing the rad hoses. Obviously DONT do this with a hot engine. It is amazing how much more air this brings out.

    I then drive about 2 miles with the zero pressure cap and stop before the temperature needle gets near 100 deg C (212 deg F), top up the levels and change to the normal pressure cap. Dont let the temperture get any higher than 100 deg C because the zero pressure cap cannot stop the water boiling!
    94 XJ Limited, Stock UK Import (RHD)
    4.0l I6 K&N Drop-In Air Filter
    NV242, Dana 30 Front Axle, 35C LS Rear
    3" lift with IronMan 5 leaf rear springs.
    Chromed Steel Modular 15x7" rims
    BFG 30x9.5" AT
    Sabre silver, grey leather.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Jeep Parts | Jeep Accessories | Trektop NX | Jeep Seat Covers | Jeep Wrangler | Jeep Wrangler Parts | Jeep Wrangler Accessories | Bestop | Jeep Tires | Jeep Stuff | Jeep Wrangler Tires | Jeep Wheels