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Thread: Help: power windows work, but only from driver's side

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    Default Help: power windows work, but only from driver's side

    I tried searching for this problem, but didn't find anything.
    All four power windows on my 97 cherokee sport work fine, but I can only control them from the driver's side, at least consistently. Every now and then the controls on the other doors will actually work, but not often. I'm definitely a novice with repairs, but I'm trying to get better fixing things on my own. Anyone have any ideas for me to try to tackle this?

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    Registered roke40's Avatar
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    I have the same problem. Hopefully someone out there has figured this one out.
    98 XJ Sport, 4.0 Auto, NP231 w/AA SYE and custom rear shaft
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    Default Re: Help: power windows work, but only from driver's side

    -=- originally posted by davhar -=-
    I tried searching for this problem, but didn't find anything.
    All four power windows on my 97 cherokee sport work fine, but I can only control them from the driver's side, at least consistently. Every now and then the controls on the other doors will actually work, but not often. I'm definitely a novice with repairs, but I'm trying to get better fixing things on my own. Anyone have any ideas for me to try to tackle this?
    Mine does the same shiat, I suspect the window lockout button is the culprit. When I have a passenger hold the button down while I punch the lockout button in and out it sometimes make the window go up and down.

    I think the whole mess of buttons is on one PCB, so I haven't bothered with it.

    I buy stuff I want, not stuff I need.

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    Registered Nihil's Avatar
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    same problem here. works once in a while. but i rarely have someone sit in the pass. seat anyway.
    '98 XJ 4.0 AW4 4x2
    '99 Explorer SOHC 4x4

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    There was a thread a while back and we were trying to find the culprit. Well a while after that I pulled out the door panel and fawked with the switches. It was an all or nothing effort and now only the drivers switch works. Before the passanger switches worked about half the time. Maybe electrical is not my strong point.

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    Registered mofo's Avatar
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    I had this problem last year and finally I just took the door panels off and cleaned up all the wire’s connections. They were badly corroded, and ever since then I haven’t had a problem. Give it a try

    Good luck
    -mofo
    ---It’s all about surface area---

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    I had the same problem in my stoled xj '97, and i solved it replacing the passenger´s side windows/lock controls. There is an electronic circuit that control all the system.

    Hope it works.
    96' XJ Laredo with 44' axles rear and front

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    Most likely it is the window lock switch. I have also seen alot of corrsion build up on the contact pins of the switch panel. I believe I could take mine apart tonight and give you the bypass wires to short together. I'll check back and let you guys know.

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    Registered jcr23's Avatar
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    i had that in my 2000 XJ. it was the main switch in the door panel. usually happens if the switches get wet.

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    Registered Chris in VA's Avatar
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    I have the same problem, but I swapped out all my switches with my friend's 94 XJ switches just to be sure. Didn't solve a thing.

    It's funny though, using the master switch puts out the full voltage at the motor, but using the passenger door switch only gives about 11v and won't power it. I worked on the sucker for over 4 hours trying to trace wiring, etc. :swear: :stormchas
    94 XJ Country NP231 AW4, 145k miles
    Cooper Discoverer ST/AR767, front towhook, PIAA 40's and Hidden Hitch. 1.5" budget boost 10/08

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    Add me to the list - when I wiggle the lockout, they come back on. I'll get around to wiring a bypass someday...
    '99 XJ Sport - Chili Pepper Red - 4.0, AW4, NP231
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    There is a master panel in the driver's door that controls all the windows. Had mine replaced a few month's ago now the switches at each window work again. It's all soldered together so you have to replace the whole panel.
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    King of the (909) saki669's Avatar
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    Bang your knee on the drivers door panel. Mine kicked back on after that.
    01WJ 4x4 V8 Quadradrive. Zippy!
    00XJ 4x4 Freedom "Project Rollover"


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    my theory is that the lockout button has a loose connection. my problems started with the lockout button, it would work intermittently after hitting the lock button a few times, then it stopped alltogether.

    if you look at the schematic i've attached and follow the red line.. this is the power +12V path to all 4 window operations. you notice that the power goes through all 4 windows in the drivers console first, then it goes to the Lock switch before leaving and going out to the switches in the other 3 windows.

    the solution, i've yet to test, but i will tomorrow at work, is to bypass the lock switch by supplying a permanent +12 to the Q1 wire (14awg Yellow).
    Simplest way to do this would be to tap into the power wire feed F81 (14awg Tan). Simplest place for this would be connector C307 behind the driver side kick panel. according to the schem these would be pins 1 & 2.

    hope you can make sense of that. i'll try to do it tomorrow and follow up with a pictorial if it actually works.

    this pic is for 97+

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    King of the (909) saki669's Avatar
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    -=- originally posted by sgtpepper -=-
    my theory is that the lockout button has a loose connection. my problems started with the lockout button, it would work intermittently after hitting the lock button a few times, then it stopped alltogether.

    if you look at the schematic i've attached and follow the red line.. this is the power +12V path to all 4 window operations. you notice that the power goes through all 4 windows in the drivers console first, then it goes to the Lock switch before leaving and going out to the switches in the other 3 windows.

    the solution, i've yet to test, but i will tomorrow at work, is to bypass the lock switch by supplying a permanent +12 to the Q1 wire (14awg Yellow).
    Simplest way to do this would be to tap into the power wire feed F81 (14awg Tan). Simplest place for this would be connector C307 behind the driver side kick panel. according to the schem these would be pins 1 & 2.

    hope you can make sense of that. i'll try to do it tomorrow and follow up with a pictorial if it actually works.

    this pic is for 97+
    Or you could just bang your knee into the drivers door.....
    01WJ 4x4 V8 Quadradrive. Zippy!
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    Registered roke40's Avatar
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    Hey saki669, are those JeepSpeed fenders on the front? If so how do they hold up to trees and rocks?
    98 XJ Sport, 4.0 Auto, NP231 w/AA SYE and custom rear shaft
    Combo front - RE 3.5" ZJ coils w/ACOS, Rear 4.5" RE w/ORGS boomerang shackles, ORGS WJ trackbar conversion, JKS discos
    33x12.50 MTRs on MT Challengers
    Rocky Road RockRails, Tomken Gas Tank Skid, Rusty's Crossmember & T-case Skid
    Powertrax No-Slip locker in rear
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  17. #17
    King of the (909) saki669's Avatar
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    -=- originally posted by roke40 -=-
    Hey saki669, are those JeepSpeed fenders on the front? If so how do they hold up to trees and rocks?
    Well I haven't hit any trees or rocks yet, so I'm not sure. They seem pretty sturdy. I'd imaging they would hold up as well or better than the stock fenders. I'll find out soon.
    01WJ 4x4 V8 Quadradrive. Zippy!
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    -=- originally posted by saki669 -=-
    Or you could just bang your knee into the drivers door.....

    yeah.. the banging doesnt work anymore.. it used to. now all i get is a sore knee.

    anyway, i tried my fix, it woks! easiest fix ever.

    if you are 97+ and have symptoms of the lockout button funking up, this will most likely work for you.

    pop the drivers side kick panel.
    find the white connector with 3 (14awg wires Tan, Yellow (for you Saki) and Black)).
    jump the Tan and Yellow wires.
    Done!

    the LEDs on the other 3 windows should come on at this point.
    be careful, the tan wire is +12 when key is turned on.

    here's what it looks like:




    :rockz:

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    Good job!!!!!!!!!!!!! And thanks for solving this annoying problem.

    So just a wire from the yellow to the tan and your done. Thats almost too easy.

    Still lose the fun of the window lock button.... but i guess you could always add a switch on the jumper wire.

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    yeah it's too easy.. cant believe i drove around for 2 years before figuring this out.



    my take is that DC under-engineered the lockout button.
    the current going through this button actually drives the other 3 window motors and is enough to fry the button over time.. oxydization, spark, etc.. until it finally fails. surprised it's not a TSB.

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