Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 21

Thread: NEW CJ-8 frame and Body??

  1. #1
    Roto-rooter kid Hubjeep's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    ORIGINATOR of the WHITE UID
    Posts
    4,135

    Question NEW CJ-8 frame and Body??

    How’s this for an idea?? (just a concept)

    1980 Scout with 6-cyl turbo diesel engine, 4-speed manual trans, D300, D44 front and rear (with CJ lug pattern).
    [I have above already]

    - Scout frame and body

    +CJ-8 frame (Matkins?)
    +CJ-8 fiberglass body (one of those colored resin ones?)
    + leaf spring suspension kit

    Bolt all that together along with MANY other little things to make a rust free, body work free CJ-8

    BTW: I would sell the Wrangler Renegade

    -John :coool:

  2. #2
    Roto-rooter kid Hubjeep's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    ORIGINATOR of the WHITE UID
    Posts
    4,135

    Default

    This body requiring no paint

    http://www.ajsjeepbodies.com/

    Anyone deal with them before?

    -John :coool:

  3. #3
    Registered oldstyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Jacksonville, Florida
    Posts
    633

    Default

    -=- originally posted by Hubjeep -=-
    This body requiring no paint

    http://www.ajsjeepbodies.com/

    Anyone deal with them before?

    -John :coool:
    Bar none, the best 'glass body on the market. I've tried them all and AJ's is the most durable. Worth the extra money. We have wrecked our AJ Jeep twice on the road, and once off road consisting of a wheelie rollover. The tub is still in one piece. The front nose got trashed and rashed, but it lives with much patchwork. The color gelcoat is NOT worth the expense because it oxidizes badly and doesn't stand up to Florida's sun. I'd opt for a paint job next time.

    All of the other brands use an inner tub placed inside an outer shell, while AJ's are made as a solid unit. This prevents water from getting between the inner/ outer shell and causing problems. We have had problems with stress cracks and "spider webbing" with the other brands, but not AJ's.
    David's Law: Nothing is easy. Everything is a project.

    '80 CJ7- owned 23 years, built oldstyle with AMC 360, T-18, Scout axles.

    Salvage/rebuilt 2006 Wrangler Unlimited 4.0, auto, and COLD A/C!

    This one died so others may may live!

  4. #4
    Senior Moderator CJSIXER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Salem, OH
    Posts
    8,485

    Default

    If you are going to buy an AJs tub be sure to get thier top end "Deluxe" body or what ever it is called. They have or had three different quality levels and the extra money spent on their top of the line is well worth it.

    1970 CJ-6: 305 TPI V8, NV4500, Dana 18 w/Teralow 3:15 gears, Dana 44 rear w/Detroit, 4:88s and custom Moser Alloy shafts, Dana 30 front w/4:88s and Bid Daddy OR HD Tierod kit flipped on top of the knuckles, full cage tied in with Saginaw power steering conversion and power brake conversion. 35 inch Super Swamper SSRs on 17x9 Procomp Steel Wheels. Kilby On Board Air---
    2000 XJ Cherokee Sport - Traded the old girl in on a 2011 Dodge Ram 1500 so I could tow the CJ to and from the trail. Only one Jeep in the family these days.

  5. #5
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Kettering, Ohio U.S.A.
    Posts
    1,926

    Icon5a

    I can't say that I have been through as many bodies as oldstyle, but I have had my 4wdh glass body on my CJ-7 for 13 years now. Put the Matkins level III frame under it a couple of years ago. The Jeep is driven daily and the body is just like it was when it came out of the box . A coat of wax and the body look like new, but the waxing part doesn't happen too often.

    If you are going to get an aftermarket frame you might think about the shackle reverse with YJ springs. I went that rout with the REE 4.5 YJ springs and the Jeep drives better than it did when I picked it up at the dealer when it was new. This is with NO sway bars either because Matkins didn't put the brackets for them on the frame.
    gperx4@att.net
    AMC wrote the book.
    D/C wrote the comic book.
    I GOT AIR,YOU GOT HOT AIR.
    Just because it isn't made doesn't mean it won't happen

  6. #6
    Roto-rooter kid Hubjeep's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    ORIGINATOR of the WHITE UID
    Posts
    4,135

    Default

    Thanks,
    What about the frames? Is Matkins the way to go? Is there much difference between the levels?

    Also, I have been thinking about this a bit more, I may need a nearly "junk" CJ for misc. parts (pedals, headlight buckets, etc) [or it could be possible to buy them all in parts used??]

    Thanks,
    John :coool:

  7. #7
    Roto-rooter kid Hubjeep's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    ORIGINATOR of the WHITE UID
    Posts
    4,135

    Default

    I priced a AJ body. The lady on the phone said they improved the jel cote with UV inhibitors. This is a major advantage to me since painting would not be required

    Here are the prices I was quoted:
    Deluxe body (w/front tilt nose and color jel cote): $3,045
    Front tilt nose mounting hardware $50
    Body mounting hardware $90
    Extra charge for inside same color as outside $75
    Shipping (about) $300

    $3,560 total (I will buy windshield frame myself and paint it, since they do not have fiberglass ones)

    -John :coool:

  8. #8
    Registered pghjeeper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Pittsburgh,PA
    Posts
    1,793

    Default

    Just my HO tilt front ends are jumk they crack and sag and never look right use the galss tub and steel front end. Get yourself a Junk 82-86 Cj for misc parts like dash guages etc. Maybe try an aluminum body they last forever and there as strong as steel. I've done a few glass bodies and just don't care for them to many grounding issues. But over all the new CJ8 idea is awsome I wanted to do it a few years ago but lacked the funds.

  9. #9
    Senior Moderator CJSIXER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Salem, OH
    Posts
    8,485

    Default

    Hub Jeep if this Jeep is going to be used AT ALL off road even for mild trail riding I would be very hesitant to go with the one piece front end. We sell AJs one piece front at 4wd Hardware(they are the only people who have the rights to the grill design from Mopar). It is a very nice high quality piece but it is probably not what you will want. If you destroy one of the fenders off road now you will have to replace the whole front end instead of just the fender. Go with a 4 piece front, you won't regret it trust me. Everyone I have ever known who has gone with the once piece front on anything but a street/show jeep has regreted it at some point.

    1970 CJ-6: 305 TPI V8, NV4500, Dana 18 w/Teralow 3:15 gears, Dana 44 rear w/Detroit, 4:88s and custom Moser Alloy shafts, Dana 30 front w/4:88s and Bid Daddy OR HD Tierod kit flipped on top of the knuckles, full cage tied in with Saginaw power steering conversion and power brake conversion. 35 inch Super Swamper SSRs on 17x9 Procomp Steel Wheels. Kilby On Board Air---
    2000 XJ Cherokee Sport - Traded the old girl in on a 2011 Dodge Ram 1500 so I could tow the CJ to and from the trail. Only one Jeep in the family these days.

  10. #10
    Registered oldstyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Jacksonville, Florida
    Posts
    633

    Default

    Right! Skip the one-piece fronts. They are impossible to keep from from rattling and squeking and driving you nuts. Too many other drawbacks to list. Just don't use it.

    Also, our AJ is the standard duty. I can't imagine an even tougher body!
    David's Law: Nothing is easy. Everything is a project.

    '80 CJ7- owned 23 years, built oldstyle with AMC 360, T-18, Scout axles.

    Salvage/rebuilt 2006 Wrangler Unlimited 4.0, auto, and COLD A/C!

    This one died so others may may live!

  11. #11
    Registered
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    124

    Default

    So I guess Joe sold you that Scout, eh John? Sounds like a nice project. Let us know if you need a hand with it.
    1986 CJ-7 - Weekend toy

  12. #12
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Kettering, Ohio U.S.A.
    Posts
    1,926

    Icon5a

    -=- originally posted by Hubjeep -=-
    Thanks,
    What about the frames? Is Matkins the way to go? Is there much difference between the levels?

    Also, I have been thinking about this a bit more, I may need a nearly "junk" CJ for misc. parts (pedals, headlight buckets, etc) [or it could be possible to buy them all in parts used??]

    Thanks,
    John :coool:

    The different levels are the thickness of them, the level III is 1/4 on three sides and a 1/2 inch on the bottom. I went with them because of the extra 1/4 inch strap on the bottom of the frame the TC skid plate holes are taped into. I had enough of the bolts inside the frame. My clutch bellcrank would bind on the trail and with the heavy frame I don't have those problems. There were other stupid issuses with the frame, but glad I did.

    As far as grounding on a glass body you will have to set up a couple of ground spots around the body, but it is no big deal. My glass body is great right out of the box and 13 years no problems
    gperx4@att.net
    AMC wrote the book.
    D/C wrote the comic book.
    I GOT AIR,YOU GOT HOT AIR.
    Just because it isn't made doesn't mean it won't happen

  13. #13

    Default

    There's a reason AJ's doesn't make fiberglass windshield frames. Go with steel unless you're going to run a hard top all of the time. The fiberglass frames flex and also require extra grounding and take some fiddling to get the wipers to fit & function properly.

    Definitely get a junk CJ to pull parts from. It'll not only net you hard to find parts, but also give you a reference point for what those parts are and where they go.
    '00 XJ (the kid is driving now)
    '86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,2.5" Superlift,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers.
    '83 Scrambler: full-caged,locked Dana 44/60'd,36" Swampered,360/999/203/300 powered beast/time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff.
    http://www.jeepskate.net

  14. #14
    Senior Moderator CJSIXER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Salem, OH
    Posts
    8,485

    Default

    -=- originally posted by Jeepskate -=-
    There's a reason AJ's doesn't make fiberglass windshield frames. Go with steel unless you're going to run a hard top all of the time. The fiberglass frames flex and also require extra grounding and take some fiddling to get the wipers to fit & function properly.

    Definitely get a junk CJ to pull parts from. It'll not only net you hard to find parts, but also give you a reference point for what those parts are and where they go.
    I agree with Jeepskate. I also am not a big fan of glass windshield frames. The aftermarket still ones are fairly poor quality but they will probably give you less problems than a glass one. Just about any other component can be replaced with glass and get equal or better results than steel.

    1970 CJ-6: 305 TPI V8, NV4500, Dana 18 w/Teralow 3:15 gears, Dana 44 rear w/Detroit, 4:88s and custom Moser Alloy shafts, Dana 30 front w/4:88s and Bid Daddy OR HD Tierod kit flipped on top of the knuckles, full cage tied in with Saginaw power steering conversion and power brake conversion. 35 inch Super Swamper SSRs on 17x9 Procomp Steel Wheels. Kilby On Board Air---
    2000 XJ Cherokee Sport - Traded the old girl in on a 2011 Dodge Ram 1500 so I could tow the CJ to and from the trail. Only one Jeep in the family these days.

  15. #15
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Kettering, Ohio U.S.A.
    Posts
    1,926

    Default

    -=- originally posted by Jeepskate -=-
    There's a reason AJ's doesn't make fiberglass windshield frames. Go with steel unless you're going to run a hard top all of the time. The fiberglass frames flex and also require extra grounding and take some fiddling to get the wipers to fit & function properly.

    Definitely get a junk CJ to pull parts from. It'll not only net you hard to find parts, but also give you a reference point for what those parts are and where they go.

    I have the glass windshield frame with the hard top and do run topless during the summer. I have never had any problems with the glass or the windshield wipers. Maybe why I have never had any problems with the glass body is because the number on it is 007.
    gperx4@att.net
    AMC wrote the book.
    D/C wrote the comic book.
    I GOT AIR,YOU GOT HOT AIR.
    Just because it isn't made doesn't mean it won't happen

  16. #16
    Roto-rooter kid Hubjeep's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    ORIGINATOR of the WHITE UID
    Posts
    4,135

    Default

    UPDATE:

    The plan went from about $5,500 down to $300

    I am picking up a Wrangler YJ frame, and tub this weekend. I plan to use a CJ front end, tailgate, and dash.

    This will allow me to use a standard YJ hardtop too

    I like the CJ-8 idea, but I also like keeping the money in the bank. My expectations are also lower when I spend less

    (prob doing a spring over with stock YJ springs)

    Sorry if I got anyone excited about a CJ-8

    -John :coool:

  17. #17

    Default

    You'll need to figure out a way to keep the CJ tailgate shut with a YJ hardtop.

    Stock YJ springs won't last very long SOA.
    '00 XJ (the kid is driving now)
    '86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,2.5" Superlift,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers.
    '83 Scrambler: full-caged,locked Dana 44/60'd,36" Swampered,360/999/203/300 powered beast/time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff.
    http://www.jeepskate.net

  18. #18
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Long Island, New York
    Posts
    2,214

    Default

    OH GREAT!


    you're not gonna want help getting the body off the frame are you!?!?!

    -Jer
    1999 TJ Sahara (5 Speed!) FOR SALE pretty much stock again. >>Pics<<
    1981 CJ7 - R.I.P. -
    From Long Island? click here.

  19. #19
    Registered
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    MD
    Posts
    4,377

    Default

    Probably a much better move and you will be happier. CJ8s are great but you would have had alot invested. Get a CJ8 later when you "trip" across one.
    Just my nickel (was $0.02 darn inflation )

    - 2006 Liberty Sport CRD "Smogger", Dark Khaki, stock and staying that way. P.S. I am slowly getting addicted to SIRIUS.............

    - 82 CJ-8 Light Khaki metallic restored. 4.0L engine and fuel injection rebuilt and ready for transplant.

    -99 TJ "sport" 4.0L auto sold to my father, oh well I can still borrow it.

    -93 YJ (RIP 9/6/04) oh well the 4.0L 32RH will nicely replace the CJ8s 4.2L TF999.

  20. #20
    Roto-rooter kid Hubjeep's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    ORIGINATOR of the WHITE UID
    Posts
    4,135

    Default

    -=- originally posted by GriptrukTJ -=-
    OH GREAT!
    you're not gonna want help getting the body off the frame are you!?!?!

    -Jer
    LOL :laugh: The body is currently bolted to the frame I will be using... but it would be nice to remove the body and paint the frame!

    -John :coool:

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Jeep Parts | Jeep Accessories | Trektop NX | Jeep Seat Covers | Jeep Wrangler | Jeep Wrangler Parts | Jeep Wrangler Accessories | Bestop | Jeep Tires | Jeep Stuff | Jeep Wrangler Tires | Jeep Wheels