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Thread: Roller cam for 4.0L?

  1. #1
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    Default Roller cam for 4.0L?

    Has anyone looked into having a roller cam ground for their 4.0? Do any stock roller lifters from other engines fit the I-6? I am planning on building a stroker for my XJ and was thinking about this. I was just curious because I think there could be considerable gains by using a roller grind.

    Brent

  2. #2

    Default Amen, Brother!!!

    I've looked everywhere for roller lifters for the 4.0.. I wonder if I could find roller lifters of the same diameter and approximate height for another Detroit motor, and fabricate the link bars to fit.

  3. #3
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    Default

    btt

  4. #4
    Stroker Fever Dino Savva's Avatar
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    Default

    Nobody makes a roller cam for the 4.0, probably because there's very little demand. You could try to persuade Crane or CompCams to make a custom roller cam for you but it ain't gonna be cheap. I'd be surprised if it costs anything less than $500 for the cam and roller lifters but the results would definitely be worth it.
    If enough people on this board jump on the bandwagon and want a roller cam, maybe either of these companies would cater for a group buy and lower the cost.

  5. #5
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    Default

    I did some research and found that no companies offer any roller cams for our great engines. I figured that a custom grind would be pretty expensive. I'm just not understanding why DCX didn't convert the cam design to a roller profile to compete more with the GM I-6 in the Trailblazer. Has anyone measured the diameter of stock 4.0 lifters and cmopared them to ones available for other engines?

    Brent

  6. #6

    Default

    Dino: all mechanical roller cams are cut from steel billet blanks. Modern hydraulic rollers can be cast blanks for economic reasons. I'm going to stick by my guns and say that the main issue will be to find a lifter that works or can be made to work. I used to run a very mild (by conventionial roller standards) mechanical roller in a BBC street race motor that was a dream. Idled like a pup and pulled crazy strong all the way to redline. Very, very streetable and I only adjusted lash when I changed oil every two or three months. I used H-11 tool steel valve springs designed for NASCAR mushroom tappet cams - modest by most roller standards and very long-lasting (as a matter of fact, I never had to change them). The great thing about a "street" roller was that it was more quiet than standard mechanical flat tappets, and the cam was ground with very modest duration - but the lift and ramp as you know can be much more aggressive than a flat tappet.

  7. #7
    Registered sixpak6's Avatar
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    Default roller lifters

    Just a note, small block Mopar lifters will slide right in without modification. Some slight grinding needs to be done inside the block due to the link bars bottoming out and not letting the roller sit on the base circle. I have a set in the garage not being used. I had a roller in my 4.0 stroker years ago and removed because it was a cast iron blank and not a billet. LSM engineering in MI has an old roller cam of mine to use as a model. If the base circle was made larger the block would probably not need the gring to clear the link bars. The base circle on that cam was made that way to get the lift that was needed and there was only the material to work with from a factory cast blank. Those cams only lasted about 1 1/2 yrs racing due to the ramp going away. LSM will do the blanks but it cost about 450-500 for the billet blank with the cam gear and then another 150 or so to finish grind, 5 cams is the min order, it adds up quick!
    sixpak6

  8. #8

    Default

    I gotta talk to Crower or Comp about the blanks. Hey, Six, did you run a billet crank by chance? Thanks about the info about the A-motor lifters working.

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