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Thread: Raising engine by oil pan????

  1. #1
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    Question Raising engine by oil pan????

    I have a Tcase drop on my YJ. I have the I6 in it too...I have to change the valve cover gasket tommorow, and noticed, that with that drop my valve cover just about touches the firewall, which makes the back bolts almost impossible to reach, and the back area of the head hard to clean. So I was thinking, it'd be great to jack up the engine a bit to get that end away from the firewall...

    so how do i do this? Do I put a 2X4 on a floor jack, and jack it up by the oil pan? do i try to jack up by the transmission? whats the best safest way to do this? has anyone done this before?
    Tony Rio
    'TJx2 - (Weekend Toy)
    :rob: :rockz: :gtar:

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    btt: i wanna hear advice on this too
    Trent
    95 YJ
    Columbia, SC

  3. #3

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    You won't notice a big change if you throw a 2x4 on a floor jack and lift at the rear of your oil pan. You may gain an inch or so between the rear of your valve cover and the firewall. Your motor mounts will hold your engine in place to prevent much upper movement from the rear. You could always unbolt a motor mount, but again that's an awful lot of work.

    When I changed my valve cover gasket I just used a universal (swivel) on my socket and I was able to get the rear bolts without much trouble. After the cover is off it is very easy to clean the surface of the head.

    Also, when you do the T-case drop your T-case in your YJ will try and move forward once it's unbolted for the frame....be prepared for it.

    ~RýCK
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    Big 92 Jeep

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    When I did the motor mount lift in my TJ, I had to jack the motor up. I used a block of 6x6 on my floor jack; laid it flat (make sure it is at least as long as your oil pan to evenly distribute the weight). Place it length ways under the oil pan & jacked the whole thing up. But obviously, this was without the motor mounts holding the engine in place.
    Black '98 TJ Sport, 6"total, 35" BFG MTs, D44 w/ Detroit & 4.88s, Warn XD8000, etc.

  5. #5
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    T Case drop has been done for a while now, not worried about that...

    but by raising the oil pan I will gain at least an inch? honestly if thats all, then it's well worth it... Honestly, I noticed this a long long time ago when i did the lift, when the tcase dropped, so did my clearance for things near the firewall...so an inch will work!

    Keep more things coming tho! thanks!
    Tony Rio
    'TJx2 - (Weekend Toy)
    :rob: :rockz: :gtar:

  6. #6
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    Default Do not lift motor at oil pan

    Repeat this several times. I will not lift my motor using the oil pan. Earlier reply got lucky. I installed headers once on a 350 chev and used wood under oil pan and a jack, others have used the crank pulley as a jacking point which stresses the engine bearings. In my case I dented the pan enough that the crank and rod tapped it. Awful noise that ruins your day and creates alot more work. You now have to replace your oil pan. You need an engine hoist to lift the motor with the engine mounts disconected. As I was changing to headers I used the heads to bolt into and lift the motor, you need to find a similar solid point to lift at. Good luck and do it right.

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    Then everyone who's done motor mount lifts & followed the directions given were lucky
    Black '98 TJ Sport, 6"total, 35" BFG MTs, D44 w/ Detroit & 4.88s, Warn XD8000, etc.

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    Originally posted by Gold
    Then everyone who's done motor mount lifts & followed the directions given were lucky
    Well in a way yes, I would never jack up and engine via the oil pan..guys that is flimsy alum. I used the bellhousing and a block of wood, that is at least stronger for the few minutes I needed to up it up
    2000 "Black" TJ 4.0

    http://community.webshots.com/user/tj2kbob

    From a Libby owner "The oil change made a noticeable improvement in response on acceleration. Not sure if it is because of going to Durablend or just because I got the old factory/break in oil out. "

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    The oil pan is not aluminum, unless they came up with a type of aluminum that rusts. The bellhousing is aluminum, on the ax-15's anyways. I would say if you need more clearance in the firewall jack it up by the tranny(not the bell housing), this will tilt the engine forward again and give you room to get back there. Jacking it up by the oil pan with the motormounts still connected is asking a lot. Its like a teeter totter, except one side is bolted to the ground, and you have a transmission and tcase on the other side, and all of this stress is being supported by 1/8" steel at the most.
    Josh
    http://www.josh.myjeeppage.com

    99TJ Sahara: 39.5's, fullwidth, locked, etc

    2002 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD, daily driver/tow rig

  10. #10
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    ok, gathered all that. and it all makes sense. But the question remains, where exactly then do I make the jack contact? the bellhousing? or is it all too risky and i should try to do it without jacking it at all? thanks guys this is bringing up a lot of good points!
    Tony Rio
    'TJx2 - (Weekend Toy)
    :rob: :rockz: :gtar:

  11. #11
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    i've jacked up on my oil pan many times..but i have an oil pan skid plate which makes it for a more solid jacking point

    i dont think i would jack by te oil pan bellhousing should work for you just fine
    2007 Un-Rubi
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  12. #12
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    Take the Tcase drop out, change the valve cover gasket then put the tcase drop back in! You'll always be jacking from the Tcase skid!

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