YJ Axle Swaps- Junkyard search

[RSQJEEP]

Axle swaps continued...there is a lot of info on the net about swapping axles, but a lot of the articles seem to contradict what the next says.

I want to know what the facts are and exactly the models that I should be looking for with the least amount of PITA during installation.

I also need to do this cheaply, so off to the yellow brick junkyard MD area) I go. One good thing is that I have time, I don't absolutely need to do the swap today. Just tomorrow.

If I want to put a reverse rotation Dana 44 in the front of my YJ, from what vehicle/year/model should I be looking for? I heard that D44 axles before the 80's are weak and to avoid those year axles. As far as suspension is concerned, I have leaf under, but will convert to either SOA or coil front and SOA rear.

As far as the rear is concerned, I would like to upgrade the axle to a heavy duty High Pinion Dana 44. What is the best vehicle/year/model should I be looking for? (I am running the NP231 w/ Tom Woods C.V. Driveshaft and the JB Conversion SYE kit.)

I am considering the D60 as well, seems they are more plentiful and cheaper than the 44's, so any info on a D60 rear is greatly appreciated. I would like to stay leaf sprung and go to a SOA.

Thanks for the help!

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*Holly: '90 YJ / '91 Clifford Built 4.0 (swap) / Detroits / SSR's & 4.56's / Full Roll Cage / Wooden Bumper
Jeep (http://www.jeeps-in-progress.com/offgallery/trailrides/jucamping/big/049.jpg)
Camp Jeep Guide (http://www.people.virginia.edu/~tb2q/Trail5_Pic6.jpg)

[1TrickYJ]

Do you want full width or are you going to stay close to stock?

[Oxjockey]

To be perfectly honest, why swap to a whole front D44? Won't the 95 YJ shafts work for you (with the 297x joints)?

As for the rear, I'd go with a larger ring gear than a D44 if you're going to run hi-pinion. Why go reverse cut at all, anyways? Because of the SOA? I still recommend an 8.8 for the rear of the YJ...

Bryan

[RSQJEEP]

I would like to stay close to stock because it is my everday driver, but if it hangs out a couple inches that is fine. I guess if it did not have to be cut I would save $$ on lavbor and then

I could get axle shafts from almost anywhere and would not have to worry about custome made axles.

I guess the answer is I would go wide, within reason. After running Voodoo at Paragon this weekend, I decided to skip the 44's and get the 60's. I heard Ford Trucks were a goos source for the 60's??????

Thanks again for the help!

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*Holly: '90 YJ / '91 Clifford Built 4.0 (swap) / Detroits / SSR's & 4.56's / Full Roll Cage / Wooden Bumper
Jeep (http://www.jeeps-in-progress.com/offgallery/trailrides/jucamping/big/049.jpg)
Camp Jeep Guide (http://www.people.virginia.edu/~tb2q/Trail5_Pic6.jpg)

[Oxjockey]

I might be wrong, but a front D60 will not easily fit on a vehicle that's SUA or lifted less than 5". Expect heavy amounts of fabricating and engineering. (cross over steering, shock/spring mounts, shortening)

I'd sooner go with a D44 with the new CTM joints or a 609 (Ford 9" with 60 outers).

Fords will have the best front D60 for your swap, the chunks are smaller, and they're on the driver's side. (after 79 or so) And the hubs stick out less than Chevy's.

Bryan


[This message has been edited by Oxjockey (edited 11-19-2001).]

[RSQJEEP]

OK, you might laugh, but I want to stay with Jeep parts so that is why I am not looking into the Ford 9.

When I get the axles, I will turn it inot a SOA using my 3.5" Warn springs.

I'm concerned about the weight of the 2 D60's on my 4.0. Would it make a difference?

[Oxjockey]

But the D60s are out of a Ford? http://forums.jeepsunlimited.com/ubb/confused.gif

The weight of a front D60 is significant, and this will affect your on road ride due to the excessive unsprung weight. The front is a very heavy axle, much more so than the rear. (I had a 60" D60 housing with ARB that I wasn't happy about lifting on my own)

What size tires do you plan on running?

Bryan

[RSQJEEP]

I was informed that the Dana 60 was in the early J2000 pick ups....is this also a rumor or true?

Anyway, I thought the 60 in the front would be too heavy as well. I would prefer the 44, but it seems that everyone bashes the 44. Maybe I should stick with the 30 and put the Warn kit up front. Supposedly it is as strong as the 44....

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*Holly: '90 YJ / '91 Clifford Built 4.0 (swap) / Detroits / SSR's & 4.56's / Full Roll Cage / Wooden Bumper
Jeep (http://www.jeeps-in-progress.com/offgallery/trailrides/jucamping/big/049.jpg)
Camp Jeep Guide (http://www.people.virginia.edu/~tb2q/Trail5_Pic6.jpg)

[Oxjockey]

The early J2000s will have the chunk on the passenger side, and I'm not familiar with the axles, but they're likely to be closed knuckle. The J20s had them in the rear, but D44s in the front. (AFAIK) Also likely to be wider than stock. The M715 is the only Jeep I know of that had the D60 front.

FYI:
http://www.jeeptech.com/models/jpu.htm

I'd tend to believe that a D44 with the hi-alloy shafts and super duper ujoint would be as strong as a D60, but for only $800. The D30 suffers from a smaller ring gear and tubes, but is otherwise comparable to the D44 if it has the 297x joints.

I hate to seem so opinionated on this...I tried to go D60 up front, but the size of the diff/axle is just immense. Besides, I ran out of money and had to sell! http://forums.jeepsunlimited.com/ubb/smile.gif It sounds like you're just beginning your research, which is good! You're in for a lot of work and cash outlay, it's good to be prepared.

Bryan

[This message has been edited by Oxjockey (edited 11-19-2001).]

[bluebellyday]

Many of the J10 series pickups used a d44 front and rear, the rear is offset. Jeep did use the D60 mostly in the 3/4 ton trucks like the J4000. These will be full length axles. 65". The front will be a closed knuckle D44.

[Mascarab]

I went searchin for axles today but only found one 44 and it was in a wagoneer and very hard to get to, I'd rather have something newer http://forums.jeepsunlimited.com/ubb/wink.gif.

Go with an 8.8, theres nothing wrong with Ford, hell ford used to make the "real" Jeeps!

[bluebellyday]

RSQJEEP,
I live in Delwawre less than 2 hours from you. I know where a J4000 is in a Delaware salvage yard or I have a buddy who has one that runs for sale.

[This message has been edited by bluebellyday (edited 11-20-2001).]

[RSQJEEP]

Do you have any idea what condition the axles are in at the 'yard?

Does your friend have the axles only for sale of the whole truck?

Sounds like there could be a road trip coming up! You can e-mail me directly at RSQJEEP@yahoo.com.

I think I am now leaning toward doing a HD 44 up front and the 60 in the front. The 60 up front sounds like overkill at this point.

Thanks again-

Holly

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*Holly: '90 YJ / '91 Clifford Built 4.0 (swap) / Detroits / SSR's & 4.56's / Full Roll Cage / Wooden Bumper
Jeep (http://www.jeeps-in-progress.com/offgallery/trailrides/jucamping/big/049.jpg)
Camp Jeep Guide (http://www.people.virginia.edu/~tb2q/Trail5_Pic6.jpg)

[bluebellyday]

My buddy is selling the whole truck 1970 J4000 Jeep 360 auto. It's in good shape and runs strong. he is asking 1,500 OBO. I will check on the Salvege yard one to see on the condition.

[jeeper1267]

Can someone give a price range to expect to pay for a Ford 8.8?

[JEEP_TJ_FREAK]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by jeeper1267:
Can someone give a price range to expect to pay for a Ford 8.8?</font>

Click Here (http://forums.jeepsunlimited.coom/ubb/Forum4/HTML/010931.html)


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I Understand.
Collin@JeepWrangler.info
http://JeepWrangler.info
4 Banger TJ on 33"s

[Snowtow]

The only vehicle you will find a reverse cut front 44 will be a Ford truck.

Who told you to avoid pre-80's 44s because they're weaker? That is a load of crap. The only 44's to avoid are like pre-74 Wagoneers with the smaller u-joints. The chunk would be on the wrong side for you anyhow. All front 44's use the same size ring gears, axleshafts, and axle tubes no matter what the year is.

In the rear a high pinion (reverse cut) 44 is only marginally stronger than a Dana 35. A low pinion 44 or reverse cut 60 will be much stronger than a HP 44. The Jeep 60's will be eight lug while the 44's out of a Jeep are 6 lug. That J truck that bluebellyday's friend is selling has the diff on the wrong side for you to use and has the weaker u-joints (260 like you have now) and external hubs.

[Oxjockey]

Didn't the early J20s have SF D60s with 5 lugs? If not, by the time you cut it down, you can have 9" outers on there with disks!

Bryan

[RSQJEEP]

I don't necessarily want to use the axles from the J trucks, I oonly was justifying the point that Jeep did use the 60 in Jeeps in the past.

After all of this info all of you have provided and going over this with fellow Jeepers over the Guinness, I came up with a plan.

My Jeep is an everday driver, so it would not be practical or legal to run 38" tires right now. When I retire the Jeep from the road in 10 years; I'll run 38's. But for now, I think the max I'll go and run on the street will be 36's.

So, I will go with the Dana 60 rear and build a bombproof Dana 44 for the front and run it until it breaks. I'm not a lead foot on the trail, so I might be lucky with the 44 up front with 36's. I guess once I grenade that (hopefully 10 years from now), I'll swap the front 44 out for the 60.

So, 2 more questions. What is the best way to build a 44? I don't want to drop $3000 at Currie or Dynatrack; I want to build it slow and as inexpensively as possible. Why not, I like hanging out with the guys at the junkyard. They have a really good sense of humor!

Second question. What vehicle do I get the rear high pinion 60 out of that would require the least amount of fab to get it to fit? Right now, I would be happy with 30 spline axles. I would also run a SOA .

Thanks again...

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*Holly: '90 YJ / '91 Clifford Built 4.0 (swap) / Detroits / SSR's & 4.56's / Full Roll Cage / Wooden Bumper
Jeep (http://www.jeeps-in-progress.com/offgallery/trailrides/jucamping/big/049.jpg)
Camp Jeep Guide (http://www.people.virginia.edu/~tb2q/Trail5_Pic6.jpg)

[Oxjockey]

Well, to my knowledge, the RC D60 was only used in the fronts of Ferds. You'll have to get a front, yank the tube on the short side, get a longer tube and pop it in there...then weld the outer on you need. Edit: Or you can buy the chunk from Currie/Dynatrac/Tera.

D44s from Waggys work well:
http://www.jeeptech.com/convaxle/d44f.html

Bryan

[This message has been edited by Oxjockey (edited 11-20-2001).]

[gunrunner]

I have a D44 from an 84 J-10 thats driver drop. It is complete, also the AMC HD20 with one piece axels that match. I tried to sell both for $300 and got no serious interest. Make me an offer if you are interested.

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84 CJ-7,Injected 406 Chevy/TH-350 trans.
Front and rear Lock-rights, full cage.
4:1 Tera-low, 35" SSR's, York air Comp.
Warn XD9000i, ETC...

[Janster]

Ahhh...been there doing that. We've got a set (front & rear) from a 1989 Grand Wagoneer. These are both Dana 44's. The front is 62" wide, full floater, disk brakes spring under orientation, drivers side diff, 30 spline inner and 19 spline outer (you need to buy manual hubs - no vacuum disconnect). The rear is 60" wide, semi floater, spring under orientation, 30 spline inner, 19 spline outer.
It's weird that the same vehicle has spring over and spring under...?? don't ask me cuz I don't know why??
Anyway- we haven't done the swap yet (someone else will do this for us later on).You use the steering components (tie rod/drag link). You need to get new axle perches and weld them in the proper place (spring under I would assume AND for the proper drive angle), shock mounts need to be moved...
That's all I know at this point. I'm still learning. We're in the process of rebuilding these axles now before they get swapped in.
Of course...you need gearing changes. These things only have 3.73's (or something like that I can't remember).
I hope it goes smoothly...Eric Kootte from Skid Rowe Automotive is doing the swap and gears for us sometime later this winter.
Good LUCK!