View Full Version : SOA in rear only ??
Boston Mangler
04-20-2001, 10:16 AM
i am preparing the info for my 8.8 swap and i was toying with the Idea of going SOA in the rear cause i need an SYE anyway with the swap
anyone running a SOA rear and a SUA front?
sounds like a good idea so i dont have to mess with the steering
i have my stock YJ springs for this
Hmmm??
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Boston Mangler
89 YJ 2.5L 4 Banger
With A Few Mods
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JPFREEK
04-20-2001, 10:21 AM
I am not currently running the setup, but I looked into something similar with an SOA in the rear and a Coil Conversion in the front. From what I was able to tell, as long as you run the same size tires on all 4 corners, you will be okay. Keep in mind I have never been able to actually test my theory.
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1995 Jeep YJ 2.5L
with stuff
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AIM=jeepyjguy
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Jeep Rater Score = 241 - Not bad for a 4-banger
I saw a cj with a setup like this. SOA in the rear and lift strings up front.
IndyJeepers
04-20-2001, 10:28 AM
I've got the same setup as well.
I'm running 4.5" Rubicon Express Extreme duty springs with a MORE shackle reverse up front and a 7 leaf SOA spring pack in the rear. Works great. On a 20 degree ramp, I'm scoring over 1000.
larsbc4x4
04-20-2001, 08:26 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by JPFREEK:
I am not currently running the setup, but I looked into something similar with an SOA in the rear and a Coil Conversion in the front. From what I was able to tell, as long as you run the same size tires on all 4 corners, you will be okay. Keep in mind I have never been able to actually test my theory.</font>
That's ok, Jeep tested it for you with the Cherokee. ;-)
As long as the spring rates are similar, you should be fine.
...lars
YJ4LIFE
04-20-2001, 09:34 PM
I saw a YJ like that in Palm Springs, CA. it looked cool to me. If I got a Cherokee rear axle would I even need to move the spring perches? is there a SOA 8.8" ford that might bolt in like this too?
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-Tas
'89 YJ, 4.2L, AX-15, no lift, 31" BFG AT KOs, LSD, Flowmaster 40series, Euro tail-lights....
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[This message has been edited by YJ4LIFE (edited 04-20-2001).]
YJ4LIFE
04-20-2001, 10:55 PM
how much would just 2, 4.5" RE springs be?
jeepbrew
05-03-2001, 02:03 AM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by IndyJeepers:
I've got the same setup as well.
I'm running 4.5" Rubicon Express Extreme duty springs with a MORE shackle reverse up front and a 7 leaf SOA spring pack in the rear. Works great. On a 20 degree ramp, I'm scoring over 1000.
</font>
Hey man, do you have any pics? That sounds awesome! http://forums.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/images/ubb/biggrin.gif
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95YJ, 4cyl, 4.10, Rusty's 3.5" lift, 2"PA BL, 3/8" lift Revolvers, 33X10.50 BFG AT/KOs on 15X8 AEs, TJ Flares, Rusty's 1"MM, chopped bumper, TJ rear, nerf bars, steering box brace, RE hand throttle, Hi-Lift, 4XRac, rock lights, Rusty's Tube and K&N, Gibson, Catco high-flow cat, Cobra 19 CB w/ Firestick, PA, scanner, Herculined, JVC CD, soundbar, Clifford alarm, etc...
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Scott Hill
05-03-2001, 03:00 AM
the J10 is set up that exact way. use stock springs in the rear and 4 inch up front with a small shacklelift to level it out and you should b fine.
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RYJAY
05-03-2001, 03:08 AM
forgive my stupidity but how does this make any difference to your steering?
if the jeep is sitting just as high SUA as it would SOA what's the difference? you'll still need the same steering correction components, right?
please please help me!
RJ
YJ4LIFE
05-03-2001, 03:12 AM
well I did some research so this is coming together nicely.
http://forums.jeepsunlimited.coom/ubb/Forum23/HTML/004405.html
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-Tas
'89 YJ, 4.2L, AX-15, no lift, 31" BFG AT KOs, LSD, Flowmaster 40series, Euro tail-lights....
Future mods: 1" body lift, 5.0L TBI chevy, 10" body stretch, some kind of suspension lift...
Super GRK_Taz World (http://members.tripod.com/GRK_Taz/index.html)
jeep-pic (http://members.tripod.com/GRK_Taz/wrangler.html)
AOL IM: superGRtaz
Looking for Jeepchick and TJ Flares :D. I'm 23 ;)
XJBaylor
05-03-2001, 04:36 AM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RYJAY:
forgive my stupidity but how does this make any difference to your steering?
if the jeep is sitting just as high SUA as it would SOA what's the difference? you'll still need the same steering correction components, right?
please please help me!
RJ</font>
The idea is simply to keep you from spending money to do a hi-steer set-up. You maintain the leaves under the steering assembly so that doesn't have to change, just be accounted for like any lift kit.
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Keith <><
'99 XJ Upcountry - just a few more mods than I can afford
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RYJAY
05-03-2001, 04:38 AM
Is this where the "s" style steering arms come in?
bsimon
05-03-2001, 12:52 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by XJBaylor:
The idea is simply to keep you from spending money to do a hi-steer set-up. You maintain the leaves under the steering assembly so that doesn't have to change, just be accounted for like any lift kit.</font>
You can also setup an SOA lift with the stock components; you don't HAVE to do the high steering. Its just an easy way to minimize bump steer AND get the steering components out of harm's way. You can do it or not, whether SUA or SOA. If you already have a lot invested in SUA, like shackle reversal, etc, it may be worth leaving that setup in front. But if your front is setup like stock now (or just with lift springs), its just as easy to go SOA all around vs trying to level out the front with a SUA setup. It'll take long shackles or a shackle reversal w/buggy leafs (poss more) to get it level with an SOA in the back.
Plus, without the high steering conversion, its tougher to eliminate bump steer.
bs
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I'd say you'd just be avoiding one problem of a SOA, the biggest one you'll still have to deal with is axle wrap. Just do sao all around. My .02
Todd
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'76 CJ7 SOA, 1" Bodylift, 44's F/R w/detroit, revolvers F/R, herculined. 36X14.50 SS
Lowrangerider
05-03-2001, 05:12 PM
I just went SOA on my 89' YJ (front and rear) and I LOVE IT, It is soooooooooooooooooo much smoother then lift springs... It rides like a dream. I cant say enough good things about it!!! Just do SOA all around and dont look back, The steering isnt that hard at all the only thing you need to do to your stock setup is make (or buy) a drag link that has the proper bend to it. I have almost NO bump steer to mine at all... 89' YJ SOA NV4500 ford 8.8 4.56 33" MT http://forums.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/images/ubb/biggrin.gif and lovin' it!
BTW: I just had this done this week
Jeepinsanity
05-03-2001, 05:54 PM
I just went SOA on my 89' YJ (front and rear) and I LOVE IT, It is soooooooooooooooooo much smoother then lift springs... It rides like a dream. I cant say enough good things about it!!! Just do SOA all around and dont look back, The steering isnt that hard at all the only thing you need to do to your stock setup is make (or buy) a drag link that has the proper bend to it. I have almost NO bump steer to mine at all... 89' YJ SOA NV4500 ford 8.8 4.56 33" MT and lovin' it!
BTW: I just had this done this week
Lowrangerider:
What kind of springs did you use? Are they lift springs or stock. How many spring are in each pack? Thanks
Lowrangerider
05-03-2001, 05:58 PM
I used Stock 5 leaf wrangler springs (if they sag I will use some of the leafs from my 3.5" lift springs) I will be putting a anit-wrap bar of some sort as soon as I get some more money.
larsbc4x4
05-03-2001, 05:59 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Lowrangerider:
The steering isnt that hard at all the only thing you need to do to your stock setup is make (or buy) a drag link that has the proper bend to it. I have almost NO bump steer to mine at all...</font>
A bent drag link will not address the bump steer issue. If it reduces bump steer, it may be because it is flexing during compression. ;-)
Seriously though, the only benefit the bent drag link will give you is that it will provide a better seal for the tie rod grease boots and a better angle for the tie rods. The physics behind the cause of bumpsteer will remain the same. The only way to address that issue is to raise the tie rod/drag link or lower the pitman arm until the drag link's angle is close to horizontal.
Since I haven't seen a pitman arm dropped enough to do this, you pretty much need to go to a high steer setup to fix the bumpsteer...and that is very expensive if you're running a Chrysler D30 front end.
...lars
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Lowrangerider
05-03-2001, 11:46 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by larsbc4x4:
Originally posted by Lowrangerider:
The steering isnt that hard at all the only thing you need to do to your stock setup is make (or buy) a drag link that has the proper bend to it. I have almost NO bump steer to mine at all...</font>
A bent drag link will not address the bump steer issue. If it reduces bump steer, it may be because it is flexing during compression. ;-)
Seriously though, the only benefit the bent drag link will give you is that it will provide a better seal for the tie rod grease boots and a better angle for the tie rods. The physics behind the cause of bumpsteer will remain the same. The only way to address that issue is to raise the tie rod/drag link or lower the pitman arm until the drag link's angle is close to horizontal.
Since I haven't seen a pitman arm dropped enough to do this, you pretty much need to go to a high steer setup to fix the bumpsteer...and that is very expensive if you're running a Chrysler D30 front end.
...lars
BZZZZZZZZZZ WRONG!!! (well sort of)
I dont know what you nancy girls call bumpsteer but that is all mine is... A drop pitman arm and a "drop" drag link... I have no/very very little bumpsteer...
[This message has been edited by Lowrangerider (edited 05-03-2001).]
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