Found Starter Prob.....What's the best way to Fix?

[vol96]

After considerable effort (I wont go into gory details), I found that the lower bolt hole in my starter was larger than the bolt and allowed the starter to shift away from the ring gear just enuf to cause terrible screeching/grinding noise and eventually not hit the ring gear at all. I was sure I had broken teeth on the ring gear but not so (see pic). There are metal shavings from the teeth not meshing properly and some small chipping. But to me the ring gear and starter pinion dont require replacement.

I dont know if the problem is the bolt hole on the starter (rebuilt one) or the bolt itself (maybe I grabbed the wrong bolt when I installed it).

So I have these questions:
Is there something special about the lower bolt on the starter....like does it have thicker shank.....so it fits snugly in starter bolt hole?

Is the bolt whole too big on my rebuilt starter?

Should there be a sleeve in the bolt whole to take up the slack?

Or do I simply need to tighten the bolts more after pushing the starter against the ring gear as much as possible. I didnt tighten as much as I wanted because it felt like the threads in the bell housing were starting to pull.

[TERIOD]

you need to compare your starter with a new one, along with the bolts to see if they are the same before you put it back in

[vol96]

Good advice. But old starter is long gone. Bolts should be around so I will look for them. I was hoping someone would know if there is something special about the bolts......or the lower hole. Perhaps the slack is to provide for some adjustment and I am being too cautious about over thightening. I'l check Haynes for a torque spec........another thing I should have done before.

[Janster]

Good advice. But old starter is long gone. Bolts should be around so I will look for them. I was hoping someone would know if there is something special about the bolts......or the lower hole. Perhaps the slack is to provide for some adjustment and I am being too cautious about over thightening. I'l check Haynes for a torque spec........another thing I should have done before.

TERIOD was on the right track..... You need to find out the exact size of the bolt you need either by going to an auto parts store and asking for a starter and LOOKING at the bolt OR call the dealer and ask them exactly what size you need. Then, go buy yourself a new bolt.

When bolts aren't tight enough - the vibrations of the vehicle can cause it to work loose and eventually hollow out the holes they are threaded into. Especially when the bellhousing is alluminum and the bolt is harden steal.

When you get a 'new' bolt - thread it into the hole (without the starter) and see how it feels. It might be 'rough' going in - but make sure it'll thread in WITHOUT any side-to-side play. If the bolt wiggles around after you've threaded it in by hand (without the starter)...you need to fix the threaded holes. You can use a keysert or helicoil

Personally, I'd use a keysert. Here's some info on it.
http://mdmetric.com/pdf/keysert.pdf

Or...if there's room on the other side of the bellhousing, drill a hole straight through and put a nut/lock washer on the other side.

If you're lucky - the new bolt will thread nicely and tightly and you should be good. YOu could use some blue lock-tite on it this time around.

[Richharr]

you learned a valuable lesson, don't throw away parts until the new one is in it and functioning, I learned in the same way.

[vol96]

Any opinions on the ring gear in the pic?

[Shadly1]

Any opinions on the ring gear in the pic?I see teeth there. If you put a new starter in there it should be ok. I think you may have just got a bad starter case last time the starter was replaced. Did you keep your receipt on that starter? They usually have some ridiculously long warranty that you can take advantage of. The starter bolts should have a wide shank with a big shoulder. If it has all thread and little to no shank, it's the wrong bolt. If it has no shoulder or a washer, it's the wrong bolt. I've seen lots of guys replace these bolts with grade 5 or 8 hardware store bolts because they're tougher. Don't do this. You need that exact amount of shank on there so it doesn't chew up the barrel of the starter bolt hole and the thick shoulder on the head for load dispersement.

[vk0896]

It's possible that the correct bolt would not be an off the shelf one...I doubt that the dealer could tell ya what the bolt size is, BUT I'll bet they'll be able to sell you a new one...might not be cheap, but maybe it wouldn't be a bad idea to order both starter bolts...I know that in many of the small block chevy engines, the OEM had some special knurling on the shanks...maybe the correct bolt has a larger shank to fit the larger hole in the starter...

[vol96]

Thanks for the replies.
The starter is a new (rebuilt). Bolt holes dont appear to be damaged.

Could someone post a pic of a starter bolt?

[vol96]

Got new starter bolts from the dealer. Didnt help. They look the same as the ones I was using except that they are hardened.

I ended up shimming on the inside half of the starter. That helped. All I can figure is the the plate between the trans and the block is weak and maybe bent, thus allowing the starter bendix gear to "rock" away from the flywheel ring gear.

Whaterver the cause, the starter now sounds almost normal with the homemade shims in there.

[wildtyphoon]

just a wonder, but did you buy the replacement starter from auto zone? or another like national brand of "discount" auto parts? ie advance auto, checker/kragan, pep boys or one such outlet?

[steeve555]

Starter bolts con not be bought off the shelp for a YJ. That being said, thay can be bought from NAPA, Carquest, dealer, etc. They probably will have to be ordered

[vol96]

wildtyphoon - Yes, got it a check/kragan store, called Murray's here.

[wildtyphoon]

id look the starter over real well then, ive gotten some amazing peices of junk from those places before (reman items)

[trine2323]

fixed it n/m