Disco and lockers

[Shadly1]

I've burned up a brain cell or two trying to figure out how to properly set up a D30 with a locker. If I used a locker with spider gears and a sliding pin(ARB, ECTED), the disco should be just fine. If I used a lunchbox or clutch type, wouldn't the disco have to go away? In 2WD, the drivers side axle spins from momentum of the tire. The disco is not engaged, so the passenger side axle spins from momentum of the tire, but the center section and the carrier do not spin and the front shaft does not spin. This would make the spider gears spin like crazy in the open diff, but that shouldn't matter too much since no load is on it. If you replaced that open diff with a lunchbox or clutch type, would it constantly slip and wear out or would it constantly be engaged and pull the whole carrier along with it?

Now, if it constantly slips, I'd think that would eventually chew off the teeth of a lunchbox and burn up a clutch type. If it was constantly engaged, then why bother with a locker at all? Why not just weld up the spider gears in the front and rely on the transfer case and disco for full engagement in 4wd?

[krochus]

If it was constantly engaged, then why bother with a locker at all? Why not just weld up the spider gears in the front and rely on the transfer case and disco for full engagement in 4wd?


I've done all sorts of research and I'm about this far from going this route myself. the only change I'll make is to install a vacuume solenoid in line to the disco motor to provide full manual control of the locked front. 3 and 4 wheel drive baby:wavin2:

But if you're hard on the above setup you'll probably break crap.

You could use a lunchbox type locker with the disconnect when disengaged it would turn the carrier, center axle and driveshaft but never have to ratchet (in 2wd) when turning due to the disconnect providing an easier point of differential

now a Detroit locker or LS diff probably wouldn't appreciate having a disco

[Shadly1]

It's my understanding that the most failure prone part on a disco is the actuator. I haven't heard too much about the collar breaking. I may have to give this a shot. Besides, "Plan B" will incorporate replacing all the bits and pieces that will be welded up.

[sinbad]

I've been lock in the front this way 5 years no problems yet. only thing I did is to balance the front d-shaft.

[krochus]

I've been lock in the front this way 5 years no problems yet. only thing I did is to balance the front d-shaft.


From your reply I gather you're runnin a "Lincoln locker" up front, If so did you remove the spiders to weld them or did you weld em up them in the housing?

[SLOPAR]

I don't know how that fella did it, but I welded mine in the housing. 2yrs. and no problems.

[sinbad]

From your reply I gather you're runnin a "Lincoln locker" up front, If so did you remove the spiders to weld them or did you weld em up them in the housing?

No , I have a Lock-Rite.

[butch6924]

I've burned up a brain cell or two trying to figure out how to properly set up a D30 with a locker. If I used a locker with spider gears and a sliding pin(ARB, ECTED), the disco should be just fine. If I used a lunchbox or clutch type, wouldn't the disco have to go away? In 2WD, the drivers side axle spins from momentum of the tire. The disco is not engaged, so the passenger side axle spins from momentum of the tire, but the center section and the carrier do not spin and the front shaft does not spin. This would make the spider gears spin like crazy in the open diff, but that shouldn't matter too much since no load is on it. If you replaced that open diff with a lunchbox or clutch type, would it constantly slip and wear out or would it constantly be engaged and pull the whole carrier along with it?

Now, if it constantly slips, I'd think that would eventually chew off the teeth of a lunchbox and burn up a clutch type. If it was constantly engaged, then why bother with a locker at all? Why not just weld up the spider gears in the front and rely on the transfer case and disco for full engagement in 4wd?

All of your facts are right. The reason I went with a lock right is so that I could keep it in 4wd and still turn. It doesn't turn very well, but a lot better than welded would.

PS> I tried building my own cable actuator. It was a PITA and never really did work right. If you're serious about having the front controllable, either buy a real cable actuator, or, look into a vaccum switch.

[vsheetz]

I have a lunch box locker in the front of my 92' YJ. The front driveshaft now spins all the time, but I did not have to have it balanced (YMMV). I installed a Posi-Lock: 1) disengaged, it allow the jeep do tight turns on the trail - otherwise it tends to keep going straight 2) gets rid of the troublesome vacuum stuff.

Has worked well on and off road for a couple years.

[Shadly1]

I have a lunch box locker in the front of my 92' YJ. The front driveshaft now spins all the time, but I did not have to have it balanced (YMMV). I installed a Posi-Lock: 1) disengaged, it allow the jeep do tight turns on the trail - otherwise it tends to keep going straight 2) gets rid of the troublesome vacuum stuff.

Has worked well on and off road for a couple years.I like the way that posi-lock works. I can see how a completely locked up front axle would make tight turns difficult, but wouldn't the locker slip to allow you to do tight turns on the trail or is it just not enough?

[Mac13]

I'm running an aussie locker with a posi lok. It works great, don't notice anything on the road

[vsheetz]

Correct, when off-road and going slow the locker may not sense the wheel differential speed and unlock. This can be very unnerving if headed towards a drop-off... the Jeep just want to plow straight ahead, no matter if the wheels are turned or not. A tug of the posi-lock and all is good again.

And the posi-lock gets rid of the vacuum disconnect - which if you have not had trouble with it yet - you most probably will...

[Shadly1]

Also,
You guys with Posi-locks and lunchboxes... Do you notice any difference at all when in 2wd with the disco locked or unlocked? If your lunchbox is pulling the FWD gear, I'd think there would be no difference at all except the clicking noise on turns with the disco locked. Do you ever get the clicking noise with the disco unlocked?

[vsheetz]

Honestly I have never paid any attention - when they do click, it's not very loud - and I probably have just learned to tune it out... And usually I have the stereo turned up pretty good. :)

But I think you are probably right.

[butch6924]

Also,
You guys with Posi-locks and lunchboxes... Do you notice any difference at all when in 2wd with the disco locked or unlocked? If your lunchbox is pulling the FWD gear, I'd think there would be no difference at all except the clicking noise on turns with the disco locked. Do you ever get the clicking noise with the disco unlocked?

You'll never get any clicking with the disco disengaged. There's no load on the passenger side shaft so the lock right locks up. It won't click because there's no load to pull it open.

[Rock WoRM]

Also,
You guys with Posi-locks and lunchboxes... Do you notice any difference at all when in 2wd with the disco locked or unlocked? If your lunchbox is pulling the FWD gear, I'd think there would be no difference at all except the clicking noise on turns with the disco locked. Do you ever get the clicking noise with the disco unlocked?
Yup, I do. That is if I were to lock the posilok and stay in 2WD, sure, both sides are turning, and you're gona feel it in the steering wheel. I never do that, I see no reason too, so ist a non-issue with me.
I also have the same issues with pulling in 4wd low range, and ocationally have to dissengage the front for steeing purposes.
If I were to do it all over again, before I had spent any $$$ at all, I woud throw in a selectable and one piece axle... IMHO that the best way to go. Not that I'm unhappy with my current set-up, it works just fine, but I would rather have the other set-up. No more d-line spin and just a flick of a switch would give me an open front while still in 4WD. And in my case, it would have been only a couple C bills more to do it that way compared to what I have already spent. Live and learn. :shadey:

:2cents:



WoRM :bsod: