Nutter Wires

[Indulgn]

Ok guys, go easy on me. Im doing the bypass on my 1989 Wrangler and the wiring colors dont match up with what should be there. Heres what I have....On the Dist side, all seems OK. On the Ign Mod side,,,,not so good.....The Mod has Orange, Violet, Green, Black/Green, White and Red. They go to two different connectors. Orange to Lt Grn/Black, Violet to Blank, Green to Dark Grn/White, and Black/Green to Black all on one connector,,,,then White to Yellow, and Red to Dk Green on another connector. Doesnt make sense to what the suggested Nutter wiring shows. I have seen all the diagrams but there is something missing. I dont have Orange going out???...any help would be greatly apprectiated at this time......

[grk76]

I had a similar problem just a few eeks ago. I will go home tonight and look at mine and I will count out the wires and see how they are connected. Apparently the manufaturers changed the wiring colors a few different times on our model of wrangler, just to confuse everyone.

[drexelsteve1]

i had a similar problem with mine. I followed the "wrong" colored wires from where they plugged at the distributor harness and when i got to about 2" or so from the ign module there was another plug. coming out of the actual module they were the correct colors but it was such a short harness i barely noticed. hope that helps

[Indulgn]

You are correct. The wiring colors on a YJ are not the same as the diagram everyone keeps sending me. In fact, the wiring harness does not enter between the manifold and battery, its on the other side kinda right behind the carb. They are correct in the fact that there are 4 wires at the ign mod and 3 coming out, however, the orange (at least on my jeep) turns to a Lt Grn with Black stripe, thats the one that needs to be cut and jumpered with the orange from the dist. Turned out very well. Lost a little power, but it starts right up.

[grk76]

Glad you got it fixed. I forgot to look at mine last night. You should not have lost power but gained power. I had to readjust my timing and I think it is about 10-12 btdc. I would check that next, but when I did the BYpass I had alot more power.

[Indulgn]

Being new at this, Im jumpin for joy I figured out the bypass. I noticed when I re-installed the air cleaner assmbly it really started to loose power, I'll look at that next, but one step at a time for me.....

[89MJComanche]

Being new at this, Im jumpin for joy I figured out the bypass. I noticed when I re-installed the air cleaner assmbly it really started to loose power, I'll look at that next, but one step at a time for me.....


The best air cleaner for a Nutter BYPASS BBL is the kind that sits right on top of the carb. However you have to re-rout your vacume lines that hook to your factory air filter if you are in one of those emissions NAZI states :whisker:

[grk76]

Where are you located?

Timing on a Jeep is very easy. You can pick up a timing light for $30 at any auto parts store. You can probably find a local shop to help you, so you will feel a little more comfortable with it. Let me know if you need help.

Is the engine still stock?

[Indulgn]

I kinda thought It might be timing. I tried to do it by ear but ya know how that goes. It is all stock with vacuum lines going everywhere, thats next on my schedule. Any pics of vacuum line routing on a stock 258 carb? Im not sure which side is port vacuum etc. Then again with the nutter, alot of the vac lines are now worthless...

[grk76]

I will sit down this weekend with mine, and write down how mine is set up. If you can, go ahead and do the TFI ignition upgrade, and a new carb. I have a weber with a fuel pressure regulator that cost me about $400. That along with the TFI will give that jeep new life. The TFI shouls run you about $100. I will write it all down for you Monday.

[aerojt]

Ok here is my setup, and this isn't meant to hijack your thread or anything. I have a Weber on a remanufactored engine, along with a DUI HEI Ignition. Nutter bypass, basically just rewired the distributor into the hot lead that controled a computer or something in the fenderwell. The question I have is, what advantage will a fuel pressure regulator get me, and where can I get one cheap that works in the range we need for the weber and 4.2-any links or exact suggestions on models? Thanks a lot.

aerojt

[grk76]

I just got mine on ebay for about $30. I was having a problem on the weber flooding out and running extremely rich no matter how I tuned the carb. Come to find out, the Factory Fule pump on the 258 puts out about 7.5 psi, and the Weber runs the most efficiently with 2.5-3.5 psi. My gas mileage is a little better, and it passes emissions now.

[aerojt]

Does your regulator fit right into the rubber fuel line? Or did you change your whole setup out to braided with screw on connectors? I have been looking at fuel pressure regulators and most are screw in. Thanks, I've done quite a bit to my jeep, this is new to me....

-aerojt

[Indulgn]

I looked at the carb and on the side it says Carter-Weber 273, is this different from the 258? The black caps covering the vac lines were already there. Then again if I get a new carb, it will probably change everything. Any idea the best place to get a MC2100 carb? Autozone, Ebay???? P.S. the autozone where I live now has a punch card, spend 20 bucks get your card punched, get 5 punches and get 20 bucks free....hey, money is money....I really need photos of vac lines and where they go.....Happy holidays all

[grk76]

Aerojt,

I have one that just goes inline with my fuel line hoses after the fuel filter to the carb. Once I get home and I am not on my inlaws dial up connection I will look for one for you.


Indulgn,

I will check Monday when I get home on the vacuum setup for mine. Pics dont really help much, but I can put together a diagram for you. You should be able to pick a mc2100 at the auto parts store, but check around and make sure you dont need an adapter. The weber kits made especially for jeeps have adapters. The 258 is just the engine, and they came stock with Carter Carbs. Some people have been able to get them to run right, but most start having problems with them by now. The Nutter will definately help your perfomance. The TFI will help too, but you still need to play with the timing.



Where are you two located?

[Indulgn]

Two, Im only one person and Im in Az. 75+ degrees today, if that dont say merry xmas, I dont know what does. Pics dont really help me much either, and its only because so much is different from one ride to the next. The Nutter definately helped, but not knowing what goes where as far as vacuum lines goes, its worthless. Im sure learning alot though. Im not looking for something that will crawl up the side of the Grand Canyon, I just want to get this thing in the best possible running condition without spending my kids college money....On my way to the In-Laws right now......later everyone....

[TSM_88YJ]

My motorcraft seems to be running rich. Id love some info on the FPR as well.

[grk76]

Here are few regulators to look at:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPECTRE-UNIVERSAL-ADJUSTABLE-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33553QQitemZ8 025198928QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Low-Pressure-1-4-psi_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33555QQitemZ8025254 050QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/C-NEW-UNIVERSAL-JDM-RACING-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33553QQitemZ8 024772502QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Or try this at summit racing:
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=fuel+pressure&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp

and also get this, which you will need to get an adapter to fit it to the output of the regulator (HOME DEPOT):

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=fuel+pressure&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp

I have most off thses or a variation of them in three different cars. They all work about the same.

[grk76]

Here is what I have for vacuum lines after the Nutter Bypass, weber carb and TFI installations.

THe EGR to the CTO.

Ported vacuum split to Distributor advance and CTO.

Manifold vacuum to 4wd.

PCV split to manifold and canister.

Vent tube to air filter

CTO to canister purge. I left the canister lines where they were.

I think that is it.


email me directly and I will send you a few pages that I put together from research on all of this.

gkernodle@nc.rr.com

[aerojt]

I appreciate the help, so the weber runs optimally around 3psi?? I have to find a regulator in that range im assuming.

aerojt

[89MJComanche]

Just FYI,

When I installed my FPR...

My gas mileage on my reman 258 with 32/36 carb went from 14 to 19mpg on the highway and that was with a 999 tranny.

I had to re-jet the carb shortly after, clean it, and have a carb guy adjust it because it was so used to running rich. I drove it 25,000 miles running rich as hell with nutter bypass. Then the FPR and whalla it was like night and day difference. I had it all set up after 3 years and 32,000 miles and then I traded it in for LWB Rubi.




I wish that I had never sold that YJ7 project. I sold it to the sales manager at the dealership where I bought my new 05 Rubicon. The guy's son built the Jeep up very quickly after I traded it in. I saw it later with SOA D44 rear, SUA D30 front with disco hubs, and 33x9.50 tires, lockers, OBA and some sheet metal work that was really nice. I sold it to them for $3000, helped em out the first few weeks with learning exactly how the nutter bypass was setup as the son wanted to do a new wiring harness with that bling bling wire loom stuff around it...

Then the Rubicon Tranny **** the bed, and when I argued with the guy about what we were going to do about it he balked at me... What an ass hole. It was ok for me to go out of the way to help him out with my old Jeep, but it was not ok for him to help me out with his old Jeep (meaning that he the dealer owned my brand new 05 before I did)

JACK ASS

[TSM_88YJ]

Just FYI,

When I installed my FPR...

My gas mileage on my reman 258 with 32/36 carb went from 14 to 19mpg on



This is my set up. What size jets? do you remember? My motorcraft has 47s.

So do the fpr, nutter, and rejet? My mileage is SUCKING. If I havent done the nutter can the ECU be screwing something up? Maybe freaking out about signals its getting? I man ignition still rusnt through it.

[TSM_88YJ]

All of my plugs were not gapped correctly. My friend forgot to gap them to .045 for the TFI when we put the new engine in. I regapped them all to .045 and performance has increased.

I'm thinking a motorcraft doesn't NEED a FPR cause it need 6-7 psi to run which is what the fuel pump puts out.

SHould I still do the nutter. COuld the computer be freaking out about readings and screwing with timing?

I've got the stuff to do it, I'm just wondering if I need to.

[rjmax]

SHould I still do the nutter. COuld the computer be freaking out about readings and screwing with timing?


Yes. Your computer is still trying to control the stepper motor on the Carter BBD and since you have the Motorcraft it can't and goes into a "limp home" mode where it locks down the timing and doesn't adjust it like it should. When you do the Nutter it eliminates the computer from the timing and allows you to set the timing where it needs to be.

I put on the Motorcraft 2100 and had the same type of problem so I put the Carter back on for now. I think if I do the Nutter that the problems will go away. My .02 cents. Good luck and give us an update when you get it done.

[89MJComanche]

Yes. Your computer is still trying to control the stepper motor on the Carter BBD and since you have the Motorcraft it can't and goes into a "limp home" mode where it locks down the timing and doesn't adjust it like it should. When you do the Nutter it eliminates the computer from the timing and allows you to set the timing where it needs to be.

I put on the Motorcraft 2100 and had the same type of problem so I put the Carter back on for now. I think if I do the Nutter that the problems will go away. My .02 cents. Good luck and give us an update when you get it done.


This is a correct statement.
The Limp Home Mode is pretty much flood the motor with fuel and it will run mode. That is why at LOW RPM's it stalls out.


I forget what Jet Size... it was smaller than what the Ford 300 Six used that I got the motorcraft off of...

[TSM_88YJ]

Yes. Your computer is still trying to control the stepper motor on the Carter BBD and since you have the Motorcraft it can't and goes into a "limp home" mode where it locks down the timing and doesn't adjust it like it should. When you do the Nutter it eliminates the computer from the timing and allows you to set the timing where it needs to be.

I put on the Motorcraft 2100 and had the same type of problem so I put the Carter back on for now. I think if I do the Nutter that the problems will go away. My .02 cents. Good luck and give us an update when you get it done.


!! HOLY CRAP!

I KNEW IT I KNEW IT. :swear: :swear: :swear: :swear: :swear: :swear:

Okay. Orange and violet.

I have looked at my ignition module and I have looked at my distributor.

On the ignition module I see orange and violet. They connect to a connector that then changes the wire color.

On the distributor I see orange and violet. after a connector from the fire wall.

Can I cut the wires on the ignition module before that connector and splice them into the corresponding wires on the distributor?

I have read where some people cut in on the ignition module after that connector changed the colors. I just need to keep orange and violet from going into the firewall to that :swear: computer. Right?


Edit: I pulled the ignition mdule. The orange changes into green/blk after the connector. However comming out of the module is orange purple green black.

On the distributor side I have orange and purple twisted together to the distributor, splice in there.

Now, will I need to readjust the timing?

BIG QUESTION ON THIS: Can I do this and then drive to my friends garage with a timing light, or do I need to do it there and adjust timing then?

[TSM_88YJ]

Well, I was impatioent on an answer and figured what the hell.

EVERYTHING SEEMS TO BE MUCH MUCH BETTER. I think the timing still needs a slight tweak, and adjusting the fuel on the carbbut right now it is way better.

I reccomend taking the ignition module OUT to do the nutter.

Remove the coolant resivoir, and remove the module. It's 3 bolts on the under side of the wheel well.

Once you have the module out it is VERY easy to make your splices.

Cut the purple and orange at the harness on the module side. Then splice in your wires. I could NOT find purpleor orange wire so I went with 14ga yellow and green.

On your distributor you should see the purple and orange wires, mine were in convoluted tubing and twisted together. Cut them close to the fire wall, I taped those ends off with electrical tape just to be safe.

Splice the wires into the distributor lines. Youre done. I went and placed convoluted tubing on my nutter wires, and zip tied everything up all pretty like.

ONce everything was ready I fired the Jeep up.

It immediately idled smoothly. Now it WAS almost 70 today, I'll give it a try in the morning to see how it does, but a jeep with a motorcraft2100 and TFI, doesn't get running well on cold days till it warms up.

I read how the facotry system is supposed to work and it is really quite amazing, but it's all gone. Good riddance.

I then drove the Jeep, THIS is where the difference was. WOW.

I can't wait until I get it tuned up right.

Mileage went up when I gapped the plugs corrctly, I'm hoping NOW it will get even better. ANYTHING is bette rthan 9MPG. It was like driving a H2. :headpop:

This was about to drive me insane, I think I have it all licked now.