bobbo27
03-21-2005, 05:54 PM
I know there are some on here for CJs, but I couldn't find one for a YJ. And I just did it, made some mistakes, so you can learn from me.
First off, everything you need:
Lights - I used 4" round brake/turn lights. $25 x 2 = $50 (make sure you get combo lights, they should have 3 wires)
Trim rings, or rubber gaskets: I got stainless trim rings: $5 x 2 = $10
Wire harnesses: $5 x 2 = $10
Total for tails = $70 Reverse light: $15
Wire harness: $2
Gasket: $2
Total for Reverse light = $19 Misc: LEDs don't draw enough current, so the signals won't work unless you get a new electrostatic flasher. ~$10
So the total for everything is ~$100. I got everything I needed at the local Napa.
Tools Holesaw works great, just depends on the size of your lights
Tin snips: needed for small trimming, or if you don't have a big enough holesaw
You could also use a jigsaw, plasma cutter, whatever you like to cut metal with.
Electrical multi tool
Wire crimps/splices or nuts
Misc screws for attaching lights, grounding, etc
Possibly extra wire for grounding
Drill for holesaw, or just for pilot holes
Screwdrivers, ratchet set for removal of stock lights
This can take a few hours, or a few days, if you don't know what you're getting into.
Once you have everything ready, you'll need to remove the stock lights. The lens has 4 screws, and the housing is held by 3 bolts. I'm hoping you can handle that part without too much help.
Once you get the stock lights off, you have to cut the wires. Cut as close as you can to the housing, unless you plan on selling them. Small scissors work well to get the outer cover off, if you can't just pull it.
Marking the holes is very important.
Knowing where your holes are going is very important.
The inside of the tub goes down 4 1/4" from the bottom of the hardtop, or 14 1/2" from the bottom of the tub. You don't want to hit the inside of the tub - It's another layer to cut, and it starts your carpet on fire. Yes, that's the voice of experiance.
If you use a holesaw, the center should be 12 1/2" or less from the bottom.
Check the size of your bezels or grommets. Mine were a little over 4", but if you get rubber grommets they will be bigger.
Measure twice, then measure again and mark it. Then measure one more time to make sure. Be sure wires are out of the way. Then cut.
Depending on your method of destruction, you may need to trim to fit.
Now you get to hook up electrical.
You should be able to unhook the harness, and have easy access to the wiring. It's pretty simple, your lights should have 3 wires. If they don't, you got the wrong ones. It says right on the light what each wire is for.
According to Chilton, my 1994 YJ 4.0 has a white brake wire and a light green/black wire for turn/hazard and the reverse light is white/black. I can look yours up if you need it.
Slip some heat shrink over before you crimp the wires together, hook up the harness, run ground wires to chassis, change the flasher (which is with the fuse panel, drivers kick) and test. Try L/R turn signals, hazards, and brakes, with lights on and off. All should work as normal, and if it doesn't, check connections and grounds.
When everything works, final install it. Depends what you got for this, but I just drilled some pilot holes and put sheetmetal screws in.
Finished:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/194000-194999/194407_63_full.jpg
Reverse light(s)
I only got one reverse light for now. I have nowhere to put the other one, until I get a tire carrier. Then I'll have 2 floods on a switch.
For now I have this:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/194000-194999/194407_64_full.jpg
Notice the bit of silver there on the bottom lefts? That's a body mount. Sucks to hit with a holesaw. Sucks a lot. Jarred me pretty good, messed up some of my paint, but the rubber covered it. Fixed with silicone now, but pissed me off at the time.
If I could un-destroy my body, I would just use a surface mount. I'll leave that up to you.
Anyway, it was easier to hook up. Its a simple light, 2 wires. One (white/black) comes from the wire harness, the other goes to ground. I used the same place as the tail on that side - just a hole drilled in the body behind that mud guard, with a screw though the ground connectors.
That pretty much covers it. I'll be glad to help with any other questions. You can email me at robby_777@hotmail.com, or get me on MSN with that addy. :rockz:
First off, everything you need:
Lights - I used 4" round brake/turn lights. $25 x 2 = $50 (make sure you get combo lights, they should have 3 wires)
Trim rings, or rubber gaskets: I got stainless trim rings: $5 x 2 = $10
Wire harnesses: $5 x 2 = $10
Total for tails = $70 Reverse light: $15
Wire harness: $2
Gasket: $2
Total for Reverse light = $19 Misc: LEDs don't draw enough current, so the signals won't work unless you get a new electrostatic flasher. ~$10
So the total for everything is ~$100. I got everything I needed at the local Napa.
Tools Holesaw works great, just depends on the size of your lights
Tin snips: needed for small trimming, or if you don't have a big enough holesaw
You could also use a jigsaw, plasma cutter, whatever you like to cut metal with.
Electrical multi tool
Wire crimps/splices or nuts
Misc screws for attaching lights, grounding, etc
Possibly extra wire for grounding
Drill for holesaw, or just for pilot holes
Screwdrivers, ratchet set for removal of stock lights
This can take a few hours, or a few days, if you don't know what you're getting into.
Once you have everything ready, you'll need to remove the stock lights. The lens has 4 screws, and the housing is held by 3 bolts. I'm hoping you can handle that part without too much help.
Once you get the stock lights off, you have to cut the wires. Cut as close as you can to the housing, unless you plan on selling them. Small scissors work well to get the outer cover off, if you can't just pull it.
Marking the holes is very important.
Knowing where your holes are going is very important.
The inside of the tub goes down 4 1/4" from the bottom of the hardtop, or 14 1/2" from the bottom of the tub. You don't want to hit the inside of the tub - It's another layer to cut, and it starts your carpet on fire. Yes, that's the voice of experiance.
If you use a holesaw, the center should be 12 1/2" or less from the bottom.
Check the size of your bezels or grommets. Mine were a little over 4", but if you get rubber grommets they will be bigger.
Measure twice, then measure again and mark it. Then measure one more time to make sure. Be sure wires are out of the way. Then cut.
Depending on your method of destruction, you may need to trim to fit.
Now you get to hook up electrical.
You should be able to unhook the harness, and have easy access to the wiring. It's pretty simple, your lights should have 3 wires. If they don't, you got the wrong ones. It says right on the light what each wire is for.
According to Chilton, my 1994 YJ 4.0 has a white brake wire and a light green/black wire for turn/hazard and the reverse light is white/black. I can look yours up if you need it.
Slip some heat shrink over before you crimp the wires together, hook up the harness, run ground wires to chassis, change the flasher (which is with the fuse panel, drivers kick) and test. Try L/R turn signals, hazards, and brakes, with lights on and off. All should work as normal, and if it doesn't, check connections and grounds.
When everything works, final install it. Depends what you got for this, but I just drilled some pilot holes and put sheetmetal screws in.
Finished:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/194000-194999/194407_63_full.jpg
Reverse light(s)
I only got one reverse light for now. I have nowhere to put the other one, until I get a tire carrier. Then I'll have 2 floods on a switch.
For now I have this:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/194000-194999/194407_64_full.jpg
Notice the bit of silver there on the bottom lefts? That's a body mount. Sucks to hit with a holesaw. Sucks a lot. Jarred me pretty good, messed up some of my paint, but the rubber covered it. Fixed with silicone now, but pissed me off at the time.
If I could un-destroy my body, I would just use a surface mount. I'll leave that up to you.
Anyway, it was easier to hook up. Its a simple light, 2 wires. One (white/black) comes from the wire harness, the other goes to ground. I used the same place as the tail on that side - just a hole drilled in the body behind that mud guard, with a screw though the ground connectors.
That pretty much covers it. I'll be glad to help with any other questions. You can email me at robby_777@hotmail.com, or get me on MSN with that addy. :rockz: