what to do with the front end

[tracyb]

so far i've got the lift i want (soa) and the rear end the way i want it but now its time for the front axle currently i'm thinking i will just use the dana 30 with:

tj axle shafts
wj knunkle and brake conversion
(i really want the crossover steering)
4.88 gears

now here is the real question-
how much will each of these things cost, i have a general idea but haven't priced everything. and is there a better option as far as swaping in a different/new axle rather than spend all this money and time on the stock D30?
thanks in advance

[Road Head]

If you used a waggy D44 front, you could get 5x4.5 to 6 lug wheel spacers for the rear and have an excellent setup. The waggy D44 front you want is from 80-91 (skip 84 and 84 cause of vacuum crap). You should be able to use some mid-70s chevy flat top knuckles and have whatever kind of high steer you want to run.

[tracyb]

i was just on car-parts.com and saw that a yard had a '78 waggy front for $300 if i where to get this then i would only need high steer arms tie rod and drag link then a gear swap right?
how about brake's?

[YJbogey]

A '78 Waggy is no good for you..

'74 to '79 is passenger side drop.

'80 to '91 is driver side drop.


You might want to keep your eye out for an entire waggy. A buddy of mine just bought one for $600 and it runs like a champ.

What kind of tires will you be running? TJ shafts will work for 35's depending on how you drive.

[tracyb]

i am running 35's and probably wont go bigger for a while i'm just trying to weigh all the benfits for the costs. i thought putting $1000 into the stock axle might not be my best option but dont know where the money is best spent.

[RatherBeJeeping]

-=- originally posted by tracyb -=-
tj axle shafts
wj knunkle and brake conversion
(i really want the crossover steering)
4.88 gears

now here is the real question-
how much will each of these things cost, i have a general idea but haven't priced everything. and is there a better option as far as swaping in a different/new axle rather than spend all this money and time on the stock D30?
thanks in advance

$100-150 for the shafts
$500-800 for the WJ stuff
$200-400 on the gears

Prices vary depending on your skill. If you can't weld and set up gears then it's a lot more expensive.

I just completed the WJ stuff, and think that to duplicate it you'd be in to this for about $750.
That's used knuckles and calipers, new rotors, new TRE's, and then all the stuff from JKS. So you can get off for less if you do different TRE's, Drag link, and Tie rod.

[HotwhlsYJ]

I am working on the WJ conversion on mine right now.
I found a U-Pull-It locally thats all you can carry for $29.95

So thus far I have:
$30 - knuckles, calipers, tierod
$25 - new Brake pads
$45 - new draglink ends

I work in a machine shop so the spacer rings and reaming for the Draglink are Freebies

I am hoping to have it finished for less than $150

The deals are out there, if you look for them enough

[B-rock]

Currently i have a dana 30 that has ALL warn stuff in it, axles, big hub's blah blah blah, I am upgrading to a HI-pinion dana 44. I would not waste my time swapping from a hi-pinion 30 to a low pinion 44. MHO.

[YJbogey]

I am upgrading to a HI-pinion dana 44.
Are you going full width?

[Road Head]

-=- originally posted by B-rock -=-
Currently i have a dana 30 that has ALL warn stuff in it, axles, big hub's blah blah blah, I am upgrading to a HI-pinion dana 44. I would not waste my time swapping from a hi-pinion 30 to a low pinion 44. MHO.

I agree, except that they are so darn cheap and the correct width and you can get high steer cheaper than you can with the D30. A HP D44 would be best, but then you have to narrow it to match the 8.8, thus more $$.

Best solution: HP D44 narrowed with chevy flat tops
Good solution (and cheapest): waggy D44 with chevy flat tops
Good solution but expensive: D30 with high steer knuckles

The D44 options give you larger r&p, larger brakes and manual lockouts.

[RatherBeJeeping]

-=- originally posted by HotwhlsYJ -=-
I am working on the WJ conversion on mine right now.
I found a U-Pull-It locally thats all you can carry for $29.95

So thus far I have:
$30 - knuckles, calipers, tierod
$25 - new Brake pads
$45 - new draglink ends

I work in a machine shop so the spacer rings and reaming for the Draglink are Freebies

I am hoping to have it finished for less than $150

The deals are out there, if you look for them enough

Not running the 24mm TRE's on the drag link or how will you make your drag link work?

You'll probably need to address your brake lines too. The orientation of the mount and it's location cost me a couple inches of line length.

[tracyb]

so the biggest reason to do the swap would be to get it done cheap.

and the reason not todo the swap is becasue the waggy 44 would be low pinion?
is the only effect of low pinion that it decreases ground clearance?

[B-rock]

I dont want to go full width because i want to keep my jeep a jeep, Not drive around a full size rig, SO I narrowed it yes.

[YJbogey]

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but here are some negatives with low pinion..

- Front driveshaft is at a much steeper angle. May need a CV joint on the front driveshaft depending on how high you lift the Jeep.

- Ring and Pinion is not as strong as reverse rotation (found in HP axles)

- And the driveshaft is more likely to hit stuff on the ground.


As Road Head said.. "Best solution: HP D44 narrowed with chevy flat tops"


EDIT: B-Rock, looks like you will have a nice setup with the HP 44. :agree:

[Road Head]

Yeah, I am going to narrow mine too.

My axle specs:
8.8 rear with 4.88s and an Eaton e-locker and 5x4.5 to 5x5.5 wheel spacers

78/79 F250 HP D44 front axle with 4.88s and a lockright. I sold all the 8lug stuff and bought

Chevy flat tops
Chevy caliper brackets and calipers
Chevy small bearing spindles
Ford hub/rotor
Warn premium lockouts
Parts Mike super high steer arms, and his tie rod and draglink using 7/8" TREs - also got Mike to drill and tap the knuckle

I will be narrowing the front. I havent decided on custom shafts or try to run waggy shafts.

Keep in mind, my build up was waaaay more expensive than grabbing a waggy D44, gearing and locking it, fabbing some perches and bolting it in. However, I got the axle I want for the tire size I want to run. If I ever want to run 37/38s, I can get some Warn shafts and CTM ujoints and be easy on the gas.

[HotwhlsYJ]

-=- originally posted by RatherBeJeeping -=-
Not running the 24mm TRE's on the drag link or how will you make your drag link work?

You'll probably need to address your brake lines too. The orientation of the mount and it's location cost me a couple inches of line length.

I am running the factory WJ tierod.
I reamed the pitman & pass. side knuckle(histeer arm only) from the top for Chevy 1 ton TRE's

My brake lines are extended SS braided lines already, I just moved the hard line from top to bottom of the frame

Here is where I found my info --> LINKY (http://www.americanjeepers.com/articles/12/1/WJ-Brake-and-Knuckle-Conversion-for-YJ%92s)<--