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87wrangleryj
07-02-2004, 11:38 AM
well i think this it the lift that i decided to go with i just ahve a couple of ? about it. it will be going on my 87 yj and i am going with the 4.5" kit. What is the diff detween standard duty and extream duty? also is there anyhting else i would need for this kit other then a drop pitman armand maybe a sye?


also i am buy new rims for my 35x12.5x15's how does a 15x8 with 3.75" of back spacing sound?


Wes

LeadFoot
07-02-2004, 11:41 AM
dont get the standard duty leaves. They are the same as pro-crap.

kilbane
07-02-2004, 02:05 PM
The 35's with the 3.75" BS wheels should rub your fender flairs unless you are running the TJ flairs or trim yours. I have a Sahara and in my pic I have the stock springs. My 33's on 15x8 w/ 4" BS rub on my Sahara flairs and I am SOA. Now that I am running the RE 1.5" SOA springs I can clear 35's - I just need to find some. Unless you go higher, you should get 4 - 4.5" BS. My personal experience.
I have heard great things about the extreme duty 4.5" lift. The kit should come with everything you need. The drop pitman arm should be included. AA SYE can't hurt though.

Good luck!

Mark

Janster
07-04-2004, 03:08 PM
We've been running the RE 4.5" kit for about 2 years and LOVE IT!!!

In fact, we are so pleased with the way our rig flexes and its on-road handling (the way its set-up) that you could never convince us to go SOA.

Custom coil conversion maybe....:brows:
**when I win the lottery**

To do it RIGHT - you should have a Slip Yoke Elminator kit and a new rear driveshaft.
You'll have some fine tuning to do with your driveshaft angle too.

To fit 35's - we are running with 4.5" kit with 1" body lift and TJ extended flares. Our 35's tuck up there nicely without rubbing. But then again...we no longer run the D30 or D35 and we don't have the stock front shock towers either).

You'll definately need to re-gear. And if you're thinking about doing that - don't waste your money on the D35!!!! Especially with 35" tires....

wcjp
07-05-2004, 01:44 AM
My RE 2.5" & 4.5" XD both sagged. The 31's would hit with both lifts. If you're running a 4cyl with no accessories it'll probably be ok. The RE XD did ride nice on the street. Neither of these SUA lifts are anywhere close to my SOA. There's quite a few people on this board that are happy with RE. I'm not one of them.

Pondscum
07-05-2004, 06:45 PM
-=- originally posted by 87wrangleryj -=-
also is there anyhting else i would need for this kit other then a drop pitman armand maybe a sye.

Wes

The 4.5" RE XD kit comes with the drop pitman arm so scratch that off your list of stuff you'll need extra.

Unless you plan on welding on new spring perches and shock mounts you'll need bigger degree wedges then the 2.5 degree ones that come with their kit.

Most people running that kit use either 6 or 8 degree wedges, i needed 8 degree wedges and the 1" TC drop for a decent driveline angle on my Jeep. Every Jeep is different i have a buddy who has the same lift kit and is using 6 degree wedges with the 1" TC drop, and i've read how others are running 6 or 8 degree wedges with no TC drop at all with that kit.

I went ahead and did the SYE/Driveshaft shortly after i installed the kit. Vibes were bad even with the wedges, the driveline angle in the rear wasn't great and too much of the slip yoke's shaft was sticking out for my liking.

jeepweezer
07-05-2004, 09:31 PM
The extreme duty also comes with greasable shackles.

wcjp
07-05-2004, 09:47 PM
Buy only steel wedges. Don't mess with aluminum.

nailer341
07-06-2004, 12:58 AM
get the 4.5 xd... you'll love it!
http://pierviews.com/photogallery/moab/tn_IMG_0135.JPG

nosliw
07-06-2004, 08:03 PM
PM me if you want a price on one. :brows:

nailer341
07-06-2004, 09:44 PM
if you are looking for the springs alone, i can get you a good price for those ;):clapping:

stevez59
07-07-2004, 10:53 PM
I've got a very similiar setup as Janster's and love the 4.5 XD as well.

The only beef I have is for some reason my front came out noticably higher than the back. (like over an inch higher) I've been hoping for the front to drop a little but so far it hasn't though it is flexing more as it breaks in. I'm probably going to try pulling the lowest leaf out of the front for a while and see if that helps it even out. Then once it starts to settle, or when I get a winch, stick them back in.

Other than riding a little front high right now, the kit works fantastic. I'm extremely happy with the way mine turned out.

Janster
07-09-2004, 07:54 AM
-=- originally posted by stevez59 -=-
I've got a very similiar setup as Janster's and love the 4.5 XD as well.

The only beef I have is for some reason my front came out noticably higher than the back. (like over an inch higher) I've been hoping for the front to drop a little but so far it hasn't though it is flexing more as it breaks in. I'm probably going to try pulling the lowest leaf out of the front for a while and see if that helps it even out. Then once it starts to settle, or when I get a winch, stick them back in.

Other than riding a little front high right now, the kit works fantastic. I'm extremely happy with the way mine turned out.

Steve - just a curious question.....

Did you put the 6 leaf pak in the rear and the 5 leaf pak in the front?

That's weird they're off that far.

**another question, off topic:
Have you ever tried to look for spare shafts for your 44's??

stevez59
07-09-2004, 11:08 PM
-=- originally posted by Janster -=-
Steve - just a curious question.....

Did you put the 6 leaf pak in the rear and the 5 leaf pak in the front?

That's weird they're off that far.

**another question, off topic:
Have you ever tried to look for spare shafts for your 44's??

My 1st thought as well on the springs, but the 6 leafs are in the back where they belong. I have been tempted to try swapping them front to rear, but the rear is actually sitting right where it should be and it carries loads really well. I'm thinking that pulling a leaf out of the front will probably be the solution, I've just been too lazy to get around to trying it. Hopefully that will make the front flex a little better as well since the front doesn't flex quite as well as the rear. The best guess I can come up with is that RE actually goofed on the front packs and put too much arch in them becuase the rear height is exactly where everyone say's they end up for lift, it's just that the front is way high.

On the 44's. Unfortunately no I don't have spare shafts yet. And after seeing your post on PBB today I guess it is going to require some searching. I had been putting it off while I payed off the CC bill from my original lift. I had not realized however how hard they were going to be to find. Now I'm kicking myself for not starting sooner. Last time I was up to Paragon I talked myself into running Voodo with the rest of the group I was running with to maintain the YJ honor. (Rest of the group were all TJ's and most of them ran it) I don't know that I would have been so brave if I had realized it was so going to be that hard to get shafts around here.

Janster
07-10-2004, 06:00 PM
-=- originally posted by stevez59 -=-
My 1st thought as well on the springs, but the 6 leafs are in the back where they belong. I have been tempted to try swapping them front to rear, but the rear is actually sitting right where it should be and it carries loads really well. I'm thinking that pulling a leaf out of the front will probably be the solution, I've just been too lazy to get around to trying it. Hopefully that will make the front flex a little better as well since the front doesn't flex quite as well as the rear. The best guess I can come up with is that RE actually goofed on the front packs and put too much arch in them becuase the rear height is exactly where everyone say's they end up for lift, it's just that the front is way high.



I actually called Rubicon Express about a year ago to ask them the spring rates of those XD springs.

I assumed the front pak would have a higher spring rate because of the engine. I had an idea of putting the 5 leaf pak in the rear to give it more lift/boost.

When I talked to RE - the spring rates of both 5 & 6 leaf paks are not that much different at all.

To be honest, my front flexes nicely. My rear could use a little help - but I think that's more because of set-up (shocks, shackles hitting rear bumper, etc).

91HOYJ
07-14-2004, 02:10 PM
-=- originally posted by wcjp -=-
Buy only steel wedges. Don't mess with aluminum.

who cares i'm not seeing what aluminum wouldn't do right, in fact it has its advantages at least it won't rust:bangnerd:

wcjp
07-15-2004, 01:40 AM
The aluminum will not hold its shape. Aluminum will deform. My original aluminum wedges were in for three weeks with limited driving on the street only. When the correct steel wedges came the aluminum was severely deformed. Aluminum is cheaper, you get what you pay for.

jeepweezer
07-16-2004, 12:07 PM
That is what I have heard use steel wedges. I have the 4.5" extreme duty ordered. I got it from Mad4wd and was 175 cheeper there then RE site. Regearing to 4.88 and adding a ford 8.8 rear axle and arb lockers front and back. Hoping it will be one sweet ride when it is all done.

Janster
07-16-2004, 05:42 PM
-=- originally posted by 91HOYJ -=-
who cares i'm not seeing what aluminum wouldn't do right, in fact it has its advantages at least it won't rust:bangnerd:

Alluminum is soft - and because they're squeezed inbetween leaf spings and a spring perch under extreme pressures - they tend to flatten out and deform.
Which means....you get *play* in the u-bolts ...which could also mean....the centering pin sheering off.

wcjp
07-17-2004, 11:07 AM
jeepweezer

Are you going to use the electric ARB compressor? I'd recommend passing on the electric compressor and convert a Sanden A/C unit. Find an A/C unit off of a Cherokee/Wrangler and convert it to on board air(OBA). The cost of this is within $30 of a new ARB electric. It's total bolt in and puts out way more air. It doesn't put out as much air as a York but is 1/2 the price with little to no fabrication. Don't forget a 1-2 gal air tank. Also, check out the ARB wiring diagram. It's very easy to reroute a wire or two. The original ARB wiring won't allow just the front locker to be installed. The front won't engage unless the rear engages first. By switching the trigger wire you'll be able to engage front and/or rear.

For my 8.8 conversion I bought most of the stuff through MORE. I highly recommend the Ebrake cables from MORE. They fit like a glove.