View Full Version : bolt-on soa?
pfoof
05-17-2004, 03:49 PM
Has anybody tried the bolt-on soa kit from Full-Traction? I'd like to go soa, but I don't have the time to grind/prep/weld/measure/weld. I know I'd still need a new cv driveshaft.
What do you think?:puzzled:
Road Head
05-17-2004, 03:57 PM
I think that it is probably a well made kit, however, a welded version would be safer. If you want a kit, look into the rubicon express kit, and find someone to weld on the perches for you.
-=- originally posted by pfoof -=-
Has anybody tried the bolt-on soa kit from Full-Traction? I'd like to go soa, but I don't have the time to grind/prep/weld/measure/weld. I know I'd still need a new cv driveshaft.
What do you think?:puzzled:
If you don't have time, you should not be attempting SOA. With all the torque produced from a 4x4 I just can't see how a bolt on kit would last. Now if you can't weld that's a different story. Join a local 4x4 club, after getting to know them someone may help out and weld the perches for you.
zman
JRowe
05-17-2004, 05:32 PM
You could also search, if it ever worked.
This has been talked about several times
n2jeepn
05-17-2004, 07:09 PM
If I remember correctly, that kit only provides the stuff that is the cheapest part of the conversion anyway. Having the brackets welded on the axle should cost much at all...and that's really all the kit does for you. And as stated above by Road Head, I'd feel more comfortable with the brackets welded on as well.
I don't think the kit addresses the most difficult and expensive issues such as steering, driveshaft, and brake lines.
The bottom line is I don't think it's worth it.
Joe Dillard
05-18-2004, 12:38 AM
They offer 2 different SOA "kits". Which one are you considering?
For the "kit" that has more items included in it (7.5" & ~$1,800), you could go a long way staying SUA & add several top quality suspension & other upgrades and be 2-3 steps ahead IMO.
When these "kits" were going to be released to the public, I called FT directly on a few different occassions and attempted to speak with anyone from the "engineering team" that put this "kit" together. I gave up after their staff either disconnected me or gave me some sort of canned sales pitch responce.
I'm sure it works ok for some (never heard of even one single Jeeper who has it). If you do go with it, post pics & trail ride experiances with it.
canuckjeeper
05-18-2004, 10:40 AM
A at-home SOA isn't all that difficult. If the Jeep is your only vechile, it's a bit tricky as you need to disable your ride for pretty much a week-end until it's driveable again.
If the welding part is what worries you, try to hook up with a local mobile welder that will do the job at a reasonable cost. The last time I spoke to a local guy, he quoted me 35$ to drop by (when he's got free time) and weld on the spring mounts and the shock mounts, provided that they are ready to be welded and already positioned in place. Essentially, he'd arrive, back his rig in my driveway, roll out the leads, fire up the welder, weld the sh*t on, roll up the leads, collect his cash, and leave. Probably 30 minutes at the most. You need to make sure that your welding surfaces are clean, ground a little, and rust free. Not hard to do with an angle grinder.
JP
pfoof
05-18-2004, 01:39 PM
thanks for all the opinons, I do know how to weld and fabricate, I guess I was looking for a shortcut. Getting the rear and front driveshaft angles correct is my main anxiety, and I figured the kit would get that for me. I've never done anything like this, and I don't want to screw my Jeep doin' it. I guess I'll collect more information, and then just do it!
:beerchug:
canuckjeeper
05-19-2004, 09:40 AM
You know, you don't really have to sweat it "that bad" about pinion angles. Just make sure that they are identical (otherwise you'll have a serious thrust issue!) and that they look to be "just right". After the SOA is done, if you get driveshaft vibes, review your angle by adding spring axle shims to properly adjust the angle. That's what I did the first time. Worked great.
JP
NHMuddrunner
05-19-2004, 12:27 PM
It seems like a lot of money for what it is. You can get a bisic spoa kit from RE for about $250 and then address all the steering and drive shaft stuff your self but I bet you still wouldn't spend even 1/2 as much as the full traction kit.
YJ4LIFE
05-19-2004, 12:32 PM
just the brackets are $400 or so. I considered it till I saw the same type of brackets for lowering trucks were $80.
IMO the cheapest and best way to go SOA bolted on is just to buy someones dana 30 and 35 wrangler axles that are already converted to SOA. There have to be plenty of people that had the stock axles SOA and then upgraded to stronger axles.
I would look into buying a set of these.
pfoof
05-20-2004, 04:24 PM
hey taco,
that's a good idea. But it seems like not too many people go soa in pa, that and i'd rather not buy a weak axle used, it may have been abused
Bush Pig
06-03-2004, 12:12 PM
Measure your stock driveline angles now as it sits.. Go get yourself an angle finder with the magnets on the base..
When you do your SOA you have your old measurements to work with. You may have to drop your T-case. You mentioned a CV, with that you should not have to drop your t-case..BUT..Is your T-case a SYE? Otherwise it you still risk popping your slip out when flexed.
Bolt on kits suck the bag..Seen one that bottoms out on the brackets!!:naw: They hang too low.
issues you'll have..Steering. most go high steer..But if your running a Dana 30?? Do ya really want to through any more $$$ @ it??
ALSO Axle Wrap,.. as the springs get softer you'll get increased axle wrap. Too stiff of springs will give you shiat flex and crappy ride.. Torque tubes will be needed
I sold a set of Dana44's complete bolt in for YJ, SOA, angles mint, disc brakes, lokcers yada yada yada..
They are out there.. Good luck either way
92redyj
06-05-2004, 10:04 PM
anyone done something like this?
pull your axles out and set them up on a level surface on the spring perches, such as a jackstand with a piece of metal to make it flat, or on cinder block(not the best idea) and make sure they are resting level on the spring perches, put your new perches on the tubes and use a level, making them perfect leve will match your stock position, then tack them in place, set on the ground and weld the hell out of them, then you can use shims to adjust the pinion angle for the proper mount of lift, sounds like the easiest way to me.
Then you just need your shocks, brake lines, drop pitman arm, trac bar brackets(unless your ditching them), extended swaybars(unless your ditching them), SYE, and CV shaft.
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