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View Full Version : Flat belly skid (stage1)


MattPascoe
01-23-2004, 09:11 PM
Like many of you I've been looking for ideas on a flat belly skid. I finally saw a design that I liked by Code4X4 (originator of MORE). It's a two piece design - a truss to hold up the tranny and a skid bolted to the frame. I called Code4X4 and asked if he would make one mail order for me, but he only does custom jobs. Fortunately he gave me some specs of his design and told me to feel free to copy it.

Soo with that said, this is not an original design. I believe ZMAN on this board has used the same idea for his skid.

To make this skid design work you need a 1" BL, a 1" MML and a SYE and CV shaft. Th key to making it all fit is eliminating the thick rubber tranny mount and using a cross member bolted directly to the tranny. The cross member attaches to the frame with isolators similar to the MORE motor mounts.

Heres the cross member in place:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid101/p2a764ac6ac2cc03239b1eda1cef63ab3/f9d930da.jpg
I'm still learning how to weld so the beads arent pretty, and all of the pieces were torch cut and hand ground. But hell I MADE THE WHOLE DAMN THING BY MY SELF!!! Felt great.

Front view:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid101/pd212ec03084884c85c5d8fb1f43eafee/f9d933e7.jpg
I had to get a new cat installed. The stock one is huge and would not fit in front of the cross member. The new one is about a third the size.

Still gotta spin the pinion up to get the DS angle right. Looks pretty steep now:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid101/p179c0dfdf4d26aa844619dd44d57304c/f9d933d2.jpg

Thats all for now, I'll get the pinion set soon then start working on a skid design. I'm thinking 1/4" 6061 T6 aluminum covering from spring hanger to hanger. That will be stage 2.

MP

D'sYJ
01-23-2004, 09:37 PM
very nice Matt, very nice:clapping:

Wrangled
01-23-2004, 11:04 PM
:bowdown: :clapping: I hear my welder calling my name:agree:

Dwest
01-23-2004, 11:29 PM
What are you using for your "islolators"? Do you have anymore pictures from the rear showing the T-case? I guess you did not clock it?

Dan90YJ
01-24-2004, 12:03 AM
id like to see some pics of the isolators/mounting to the frame as well.

Looks good.

Care to PM or email me the specs?

cj8
01-24-2004, 03:54 AM
looks good. Got any more pics?

Can you post the specs CODE4x4 gave you? what material thickness are did you use for the brackets and the new cross member?

thx.

vt gp dude
01-24-2004, 07:44 AM
-=- originally posted by cj8 -=-
looks good. Got any more pics?

Can you post the specs CODE4x4 gave you? what material thickness are did you use for the brackets and the new cross member?

thx.

x2:beerchug:

wcjp
01-24-2004, 09:26 AM
Could you post some closeups of the frame attachment?

MattPascoe
01-24-2004, 11:06 AM
Thanks for all the comments. Cant wait to get started on the skid portion.

My conversation with Chris at CODE 4X4 was pretty brief and did not include a material list, just the general idea. The materials used were just based on my "best guess" of what could be suficient.

Frame tabs - 1/4" steel
Isolator tubes = 2" x .120 tube
Cross member - 1-1/2"x1-1/2" tube, 3/16 wall
Tranny cradle - 3/16" steel

The tranny cradle is not paralel to the frame so I put a 5* bend were the cross member attaches to the cradle.

Dwest, no clocking required. I kinda expected to have to do some trimming at the shifter cover plate, and Zman had to put a "dimple" in his tub to clear his CV joint. But so far I clear everything without trimming or dimpling. I really havent had a chance to flex it or push it hard so I still might have a little customizing to do.

I'll take some more pics today of the frame mount/isolator and post them this eve.

MP

MattPascoe
01-24-2004, 01:00 PM
The problem with closeups is you can really see my booger welds, looks much better from a distance (kinda like a girl I used to date hmmm), but here goes:

Frame tie-in:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid101/p65a72a33d6d56168808ec0481b2abc1e/f9d781e4.jpg
1/4" tabs welded to the frame, 2" x .120 wall tubing welded to cross member, bushings pressed into tube (just like spring eye bushings). So the cross member does not touch the frame at all. Theres ~1/2" of polyurthane between the two.

Rear of t-case:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid101/p9018a2b50521a6781d85addcf7e54a16/f9d7813e.jpg

MP

zman
01-24-2004, 01:00 PM
Matt,

Looks great. Almost exactly like mine and your materials list is just like mine. Definately 1/4" for the tabs (hand made mine too). I did make the drivers side tab a little longer and ran the e-brake cable through a hole I drilled. Then added some gussets for strenght due to the longer tab, other than that it is identical. One thing I have not addressed is the cat (I'm catless :shush:). But now you have given me a great solution. Have wheeled mine pretty hard and it is holding up great. I used 1/4 plate steel for the skid, pretty heavy and Aluminum is a good choice, not sure if you need to cover the whole bottom, as mine seems fine so far. Sorry I did not have any pics for ya other than this one.

http://users.verdeonline.com/ace/jeep/flat.JPG


Enjoy,

zman

PS. Have to give credit to Code5337 (rockcrawler.com) or Code4x4, as I too copied this from him.

zman
01-24-2004, 01:09 PM
As far a booger welds...

My motto is the bigger the glob, the better the job. :clapping:

wcjp
01-24-2004, 04:46 PM
If you bring the skidplate back a little further this would make a great attachment point for a future traction bar in case of SOA.

love24wheel
01-24-2004, 06:44 PM
Looks good Matt.. Im looking to do a flat skid on mine once I get all the suspension work done, and I will probably do the same thing... awesome work.
Scott

BigRedYJ
01-25-2004, 12:46 PM
Why not make the skid longer to include the engine...just make it one peice with support bars going across to the frames?? Granted...it will be heavy...but...that's what friends are for!!

azyj
01-26-2004, 01:49 PM
-=- originally posted by zman -=-
http://users.verdeonline.com/ace/jeep/flat.JPG


Martinez Canyon?

-Roger

RatherBeJeeping
01-26-2004, 02:10 PM
-=- originally posted by love24wheel -=-
Looks good Matt.. Im looking to do a flat skid on mine once I get all the suspension work done, and I will probably do the same thing... awesome work.
Scott

We can do that when we make do the suspension if you want Scott.

zman
01-27-2004, 09:53 AM
-=- originally posted by BigRedYJ -=-
Why not make the skid longer to include the engine...just make it one peice with support bars going across to the frames?? Granted...it will be heavy...but...that's what friends are for!!


I had considered it at first, then after inspection of the installation I came to these conclusions.

1. Weight.
2. More added cost.
3. Extra labor to deal with working around DS (doing this out of my garage).
4. My engine is on a 1" MM lift, it and the tranny already sit above the frame rails so their already is some protection.

The smaller plate was the end result for me. That's the nice thing about doing it yourself, you can make it however you want it. I will be curious to see what Matt ends up with, I'm sure he will come up with something good.

zman

zman
01-27-2004, 09:54 AM
-=- originally posted by azyj -=-
Martinez Canyon?

-Roger

Yep

wcjp
01-27-2004, 08:23 PM
Does anyone know how strong 3/16" Diamond plate steel is? I have access to this or 1/2" aluminum.

love24wheel
01-28-2004, 02:22 AM
-=- originally posted by RatherBeJeeping -=-
We can do that when we make do the suspension if you want Scott.

I may take you up on that John.. Just gotta find the steel for the actual plate once the cross member is done.
Scott