How to SOA

[chiso93yj]

I want to do a spring over on my 93 yj. The Black Diamond spring i have bought are just too firm. plus soa flexes way better.
what is the best way to go about doing this? how much lift should i expect?

[jeepguy21]

I dont know the best way but im buying the pieces slowly then puttin them on in one day. bought the SOA kit from RE which took care of a majority of it, perches, extended brake lines, pitman arm and a bunch of other stuff, plus they had a deal to get shocks too so i got them as well. Now I need a SYE and some CV driveshafts, but need the lift on to figure the drive shaft lengths out. Im getting 5.5" of lift from the kit with stock springs but it can vary depending on how you do it.

[HighCoYJ]

You need new spring perches, shocks, and a dropped pittman arm. You also need a SYE if you don't have it already.

SOA writeup (http://www.4x4grace.com/tech/soa.html)

This is a link for a friends SOA conversion. I did mine similar. Bear in mind that there is much more involved with a SOA than is listed on that page. I have been involved in 2 soa's. Mine is still ongoing (swapped in full width axles) and constantly learning.

mike

[chiso93yj]

yeah cool write up.
I Have 3.5 inch lift on here right now and i think that spring under is just stupid. These springs are so hard that it's crazy. I'd need a V8 and a winch on the front to get them to flex the way id like.

plus the ride sucks.

if i could put my stock springs on and have my old ride back with 5.5 inches of lift then i'd be in heaven. i still "plan" on putting my ford 302 5.0L in. any thoughts on what that would do to the springs?

plus i've already got a 231D w/ SYE, Tom Woods premi rear drive shaft and longer shocks. I think i may go to some better new shocks for max flex. nothing is holding me back...:neil: well maybe...

Those YJs have great flex... good job

[CvrsRth]

very cool write up indeed, one question though, what did you guys do for an anti-wrap bar? if you arent running one have u been having any problems? (springs turning S shaped, flattening out, breaking driveshafts, etc.)

[Joe Dillard]

I ended up with ~7.5" of lift. Part of this was due to the 1.5" RE SOA leafs, the larger 8.8 tubes, the simi-tall RE anti-wrap perches, 3/8" Booms, and the use of the MORE 7/16" mini riser block that comes with the SCK.

Here's a list of some of the items that I used. Also, take into account I swapped in a Ford 8.8 rear axle at the same time.

RE 1.5" SOA front springs, PN RE1444
RE 1.5" SOA rear springs, PN RE1445
RE SOA spring bushing kit, PN RE1492
RE antiwrap spring perches, PN 1920
RE antiwrap spring perches, PN 1930
RE Weld-on shock mounts (2 kits), PN RE2020
RE U-bolts for D-30, PN RE2420
RE U-bolt kit for F8.8, 3.25"x8"x9/16", PN RE1230
Rancho RS9000's, 2 RS9010's, 2 RS9012's
MORE Steering correction kit, Stage 1
MORE front shock hoops
MORE rear upper shock relocation mounts
'99 Ford 8.8 rear axle, 31 spline, w/discs
F8.8 4.56 ring & pinion (Yukon)
ring & pinion install kit
ARB locker, PN RD-81
31" front brake hoses (hose fab shop in Phoenix)
Rear hydraulic & e-brake fabed hoses/lines
Spicer yoke adapter for F8.8, PN 2-2-1379

newly installed
35x12.5 MT/R's
M/T 15x8 Classic II's

Already installed, prior to SOA:
Drop pitman arm
JKS disco's (not really needed, tossed aside)
M.I.T. SYE
East County CV rear driveshaft
D30 4.56
D30 ARB, compressor, harness & switches
Extended bump stops (ended-up being removed/tossed)
Currie front shackles
Rear Boomerangs (center support cross removed from boom's to clear reverse eye leafs)
33x12.50 bias ply TSL's
I have removed the F&R stock tracbars
I removed my old 4" lift kit & it went to a new home in MO to a fellow JUer
Tired D35C, 4.56 & ARB went to a new home in San Diego for salvage parts to another fellow JUer

CvrsRth,
By using the RE reverse eye leafs, anti wrap perches, and the stock frame mounted rear forward bump stops, this seems to have minimized axle wrap on my set up. Yes, it still does have some. However, the main leaf comes in contact with the bumpstop far sooner than if the leafs was wrapped in a normal fashion. Is it ideal? Nope, but it's doing the trick for now, and I'm addressing/considering other solutions in the future.

[oltmann]

HighCoYJ,

Great write up! Those are exactly the steps I used. One thing I would add is that fabbing up the sway bar links into quick disco's is cheap and adds some stability on road. They are quick to take off/put on, and that way you don't have to worry about onroad performance. Another thing is that I retained my front trac bar because of the offroad handling. I found the springs to be so soft that I couldn't turn very well while driving slow(either 2 or 4wd). The last thing that could help save some money, is to pick up a pitman arm from a grand cherokee at a junk yard. They are the same as the drop pitman arm that came with my original Rough Country lift, and hopefully less than $59.

[HighCoYJ]

Thanks guys.

We are not running any type of traction bar yet. I haven't had any problems with spring wrap with a 2.5L, but the white jeep in the writeup has a Chevy 350 and is experiencing wrap. We both started with the tracbar in the front, cause the springs are soooo soft, it makes it difficult to handle. I have since removed mine completely, and have adjusted my driving accordingly. The other guy has an adjustable tracbar up front, but rarely runs it. Let me know if you have any other questions.

mike