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View Full Version : Dana 44 Tie Rod and Steering Hook up.


Pollock
10-28-2003, 06:30 PM
Well what do I do just get Waggy stuff? Or what do you think about these links? Or post your own favorite links?


This stuff would be nice But I drive it on the street.
http://bulletproofsteering.com/steeringsystems.html

Kinda like what we have about
http://www.rockstomper.com/catalog/steering/rockrods/rockrod.htm

1 ton tire rods? :puzzled:

http://www.completeoffroad.com/products/i-78.html

Janster
10-28-2003, 06:44 PM
Why are you replacing the stock stuff??

I've got a stock GW tie-rod & drag link off an 89 ....the drag link ball joint goes into the tie-rod from the backside.
If you're interested.....
:agree:

We have the bulletproof system....and I can't say ENOUGH good things about it.
http://www.lieblweb.com/Izzy/FullSteering.jpg

http://www.lieblweb.com/Izzy/NewSteering.jpg

http://www.lieblweb.com/Izzy/NewKnuckle.jpg

We just installed a performance unlimited tie-rod & drag link on a friends Jeep this past weekend. It's a SWEET set-up.

NE-RokToy
10-28-2003, 09:01 PM
I wouldnt run the bullet proof setup for two reasons: Heim joints, and poor design. They use super duty bolts too make up for a poor design. It is bad practice to have one heim in single shear let alone two stacked on top of each other! Stick to tried and trued Tie Rod Ends, you will break alot of **** before one of these.

Pollock
10-28-2003, 09:54 PM
-=- originally posted by NE-RokToy -=-
I wouldnt run the bullet proof setup for two reasons: Heim joints, and poor design. They use super duty bolts too make up for a poor design. It is bad practice to have one heim in single shear let alone two stacked on top of each other! Stick to tried and trued Tie Rod Ends, you will break alot of **** before one of these.

I agree and disagree with you. For one the double stack Idea scares me too. However heim joins have to be tough since that is what all tube chassis races cars have right? Even on the 4 link rear suspensions where they take all the torque and HP?

What makes this sucker cost so much?
http://www.completeoffroad.com/images/cat/TieRoddragLinkCustom1571796166.jpg

This past weekend I bent a tie rod but it was at the factory adjustment point. The 1 ton look like they attach more stout together. I am sure bending a tie rod is rare.

Pollock
10-28-2003, 09:56 PM
How does this work under articulation? Do you feel it is safe?

http://www.lieblweb.com/Izzy/NewKnuckle.jpg


Edit: Whos Idea was this? The Jeep owner or bulletproof steering?

WillYJ
10-29-2003, 01:19 AM
Pollock, I put flat top knuckles from a pass side drop 44 onto my driver side drop 44. That allowed me to get a high steer setup from Shakerbuilt.com with Chevy TRE and HD rods. Chevy TREs means that I can find them anywhere, unlike most of that custom stuff.

I found my unofficial invoice:
Shaker built machining and parts
Tie rod and drag link $135.00
Knuckle milling/drilling/tapping $100.00
High steer arms, set $100.00
High steer arm spacers, set $70.00
Studs, nuts, tapered keepers $50.00
Total $455.00

And... Tie rod ends P/N ES2027L (2) $42.98
Tie rod ends P/N ES2026R (2) $50.98

WillYJ
10-29-2003, 01:30 AM
Here's a writeup of a very similar build....

D44 high steer (http://mywebpages.comcast.net/42gpw/page9.html)

mckeddie
10-29-2003, 03:08 AM
i've said it many times, and i'll say it again. a good quality rod end, properly cared for will last as long as a TRE. we run them on lots of rigs, even 3/4 and 1 ton cummins dodges. we've never had a problem with them. as long as you keep them clean and well oiled, they last forever. pollock, you don't run yours on the street much anyways. i just carry a can of WD40 to hit mine with at the end of each trail ride to get me till i can clean them and re-oil them. works like a charm. i've got a year on them, and they are like brand new still, and they have plenty of on and offroad miles on them. i made my own setup, pretty much identical to the bulletproof for very little (in comparison to what everyone else charges). it was super simple. i've posted the price in a couple of your posts, but i'm too tired to remember it right now, but i think it was close to $120 for everything, including right and left threads in the TR and DL. i used 3/4x3/4" rod ends on mine. they will be the last thing on the front of mine to break i think. butch runs 5/8x3/4" on his, and has never had a prob either, and that is with a trail only cj on 38.5 sx's, that used to eat a tierod every trip out.

greg

Janster
10-29-2003, 10:58 AM
-=- originally posted by Pollock -=-
How does this work under articulation? Do you feel it is safe?

http://www.lieblweb.com/Izzy/NewKnuckle.jpg


Edit: Whos Idea was this? The Jeep owner or bulletproof steering?

This idea (and set-up) is strictly a recommendation from bulletproof steering. Below - was taken directly off their website:
http://bulletproofsteering.com/img57.gif
Our Genuine Bullet Proof Custom Steering™ Linkage can also be mounted in a Tie Rod Over Knuckle™ configuration. With this kit, the tie rod and drag link can be mounted higher up on top of the knuckle, rather than the OEM location underneath. This option provides an additional 2 inches of tie rod to ground clearance for obstacles that might otherwise cause damage to sensitive steering components. This feature also decreases pitman arm and drag link angles. Once our Tie Rod Over Knuckle™ kit is installed it can easily be reverted back to under the knuckle at any time.

Visit their website and read more about it.
http://bulletproofsteering.com/

If I didn't feel safe, it wouldn't be on my rig. In fact.... If you notice on the picture of my set-up (at top). There's a wide washer/spacer directly underneath the bolt head. The bottom picture doesn't have that....(weird)
This *wide* washer is included (and I insisted installing it). If the rod-ends were to ever pop off the ball - that wide washer would prevent the heim from coming off completely.

And again - this set-up (tie-rod & drag link) can be used if I ever want to do a hysteer someday.

ksdaoski
10-29-2003, 11:03 AM
1 tons and never look back. I made my own. TRE inserts are $12, DOM is 1.5" .25 wall....NOT GOING TO BEND. As far as low steer/high steer all up to you and $$$ spent


http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=442588


pic at the end shows a waggy 44 on a yj

Pollock
10-29-2003, 11:26 AM
Poison spyder seems to sell everything I might need. Even 1 1/2 Tube with .250 wall.

The frame website did not work as planned. If you are interested just look under steering.

http://www.spydercustoms.com/parts/steering/tie_rod_links.htm



So I could make it myself for half the cost. :agree:

To bad no one sells tubing in Bloomington. :teary:

ksdaoski
10-29-2003, 07:25 PM
i got my inserts from them. I bought the tube from www.onlinemetals.com great deals!!!!!!!!!

mudpup
10-30-2003, 01:47 AM
stock waggy steering with reamed out stock pitman arm...high steer and all that stuff