Lift Install

[aerojt]

Just got my lift - ready to install 4wd 2" Kit - Any tips or advice before I lose my virginity here?? :hah:

thanks

aerojt

[4.Oh]

Spray everything down good and let it soak in. then spray it some more. follow the distructions.

[Nick89]

sprany everything down with PB blaster or penatrating oil, I mean everyhting that you amy ahve to take off. Then spray daily, if not a couple times. I would then drive it arounds for a week or so while your soaking the stuff break some stuff loose.

[IDMO]

Don't be surprised if you need to torch or use lots of cutting wheels, the torch was my #1 friend during my install :D

[fatkid1082]

buy new sawzall blades :) I'm not too far away for help...for beer :)

[LeadFoot]

The hardest problem will be the spring hanger bolts, you'll have to torch the head and nut off as close to the spring hanger as possible, then grind it flush with the hanger, then get a screwdriver/punch and pry the hanger apart, then pound down on the leaf spring. The sleeve usually sticks to the bolt, not allowing the bolt to come out.

If you have to use those brake line relocation brackets with the 2" kit, don't use em. It'll be eaiser for you to buy extended brake lines. Chances are the track bars won't come off. Mine didn't. I just plan on driving around until they fall off, since there is no nut holding them on.

I know all this because I just installed a 1.5" Superlift and took it off, and now installing 4WD Hardware's 3.5" kit. The directions could use some more clarification on some spots. Need any help just let me know!

[fatkid1082]

directions?? c'mon, take 4 springs off, add 4 more with new shocks....

easy !!!


and ditto on the spring hangers, the main eye always seems to be the worst of them all...i found torching the bushing and melting them out makes quick work of getting the main eye and hanger bolts out....

Leadfoot...get your track bars of now!! hah, what if one of those heavy bastards falls out onto your driveshaft? ouch...if you can't pound em out, cut it out at the ends, the ends will then come out sooner or later

[LeadFoot]

I do have a oxy- acel torch but because I almost caught the whole heep on fire torching the spring hanger bolt off I'm alittle more careful now! http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/thefinger.gif

Caught the bushing on fire, then my body mount caught on fire, right next to the fuel lines. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/thefinger.gif


Is the track bar hollow?? I'm still waiting on a pitman arm puller, boomerang shackles, and longer brake lines, so I can't work on it too much now. Well, I could work on that stripped crossmember nut.... :sousy:

[fatkid1082]

nope, not hollow-heavy bastards-

yeah fire gets a little sketchy here or there...guy at work lost his whole bronco to a brake line fire

good luck to both you guys :clapping: :spinhead: :clapping: :rotflmao:

[aerojt]

The brake line relocation brackets are trash - do I really need to relocate or lengthen even?? Thanks

aerojt

[aerojt]

btt

[Dev Dev 23]

-=- originally posted by aerojt -=-
The brake line relocation brackets are trash - do I really need to relocate or lengthen even?? Thanks

aerojt

The rear, probably not. But go flex it and find out, then buy an extended one if you need it.
Devin

[aerojt]

Where do you get an extended one and how much are they - Summit has some that are for 4" to 6" lifts but its 100 bux.

aerojt

[flashfoto]

Hang your track bars up on the wall & drive your Jeep without for a week. If you then think you need them, put 'em back on. Most people don't.

Did your kit come with a dropped pitman arm??

[95bluYJ]

What parts does your new kit come with? Does it have new bushings and u-bolts? Besides spraying all the bolts as previously mentioned at least 1 week prior, make sure you have some HEAVY duty jack stands (4 are best, 2 for the half you're working on, and the other 2 for the axle), an impact wrench is great to have (even if you don't have an air supply, many hardware stores have electric ones that work pretty well that they rent out). Having an extra pair of hands will help, but isn't necessary. If you don't use an impact wrench, you'll need a nice sized breaker bar. Since your Jeep is already 17 years old, I would recommend that you buy new bolts (if you're LUCKY enough to not destroy them removing them, they're still pretty old). I got replacement bolts (4 new spring hanger bolts, 8 new shackle bolts, and new U-bolts) from 4wd hardware (most replacement parts dealers will have these too). All new bolts will cost about $60 (new u-bolts are about 40, and 20 for the other bolts). You will DEFINITELY be loving life if you go this route. I tried on a previous Jeep to save some bucks by trying to reuse the older bolts, and had some nightmares. A little trick for removing the rear shackle bolts (the factory bolts are put in from the gas tank side) is to remove the nut, then pry out the bushings next, and then the bolt will be easy to remove without having to remove the gas tank. When you put in the new bolts, put them in from the outer side. You'll want to retorque all the bolts a week or 2 after driving around (in case they got loose). With a 2" lift, you'll probably NOT need to alter your brake lines, and definitely won't need a new pitman arm. As far as front and rear track bars, you won't need the rear at all, and MOST people don't use the front either (I would recommend to remove it, drive it for a week or 2, then decide if you want to put the front back on or not).

[Brian-Hershey,P]

How do you like the 4WD hardware lift? How is it on road? Offroad? Do you like the 2 or 4 inch one better?

[aerojt]

All new hardware came w/ it - Bought extended brake lines today, and it ran me about $600 w/ Boomerang shackles.

aerojt

[uhdinator]

replace the frame bushings where the shakles bolt on too and have new shackle bolts and spring hangar bolts. The bolts rust to the sleeve inside the spring bushings are very hard to get out. Don't reuse axle u bolts get new ones.

My 2.5" rancho kit was so stiff I just left the front sway bar un hooked and could not tell the diff. Had to cut the body behind the shifter boot and slide the whole shifter boot back a couple inches so shifter would go all the way into reverse. Then make a cover for the gap at the front of the shifter boot.

[LeadFoot]

-=- originally posted by uhdinator -=-
replace the frame bushings where the shakles bolt on too and have new shackle bolts and spring hangar bolts. The bolts rust to the sleeve inside the spring bushings are very hard to get out. Don't reuse axle u bolts get new ones.


The 4WD lift kits come with new frame bushings and u bolts. Ditto on the new spring hanger bolts!

[Jays89YJ]

PB Blaster the spring perch nuts/bolts for 1 week while driving it still. Have a little torch available. You know not a plasma torch, but a simple one. When taking off the spring perch nuts first try without heating. If it gets too hard, cook the HELL out of the NUT, NOT THE BOLT. Have a large breaker bar available too. Heat the NUT then Breaker Bar it. I did not have to cut ONE single thing on my OME install. Oh yeah and if there is a lot of rust under there consider oil undercoating for the winter. My 89 YJ has hardly any rust underneath. Plus that oil undercoating makes it easy to keep nuts/bolts clean.

Jason